Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

The gaps on the ailerons are perfect for me. I went ahead and sealed them with clear monokote, should work good for me.

Looks like I might be doing some free advertising fror them with the wing decals/

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

I do like the color sceme on this thing. It is starting to look like a plane.

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

Nice decal provided with my plane.

krayzc-RCU

My Feedback: (31)

what is the measurement on those ailerons?

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

Ailerons are

42.5 inches long x 5.5 wide inside and 3.5 wide at the tip

flying skunks

My Feedback: (7)

looking good Richard.
Donie

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

Well almost got another wing done. After I went to the hardware store to buy 1/4 20 socket head screws for hooking up the SWB's I just found the bag with the same and fiber lock nuts tonight while getting ready to hook up the pull pull cables.

Although not done yet I would say that the hardware kit was pretty well thought out and complete and absolutely useable. About the only thing I might have needed to buy was the little washers to back up those bolts on the ball links. I always like washers there.

I have not got any answer back from Karl Mueller although I sent him pictures and measuremens two days ago. Maybe he is on vacation?

Here is the notch I needed for header clearance. Once I get my 1.75 inch Espirt satandoffs on monday I will check it again before running in some CF cloth to re-strengthen the corner.

I feel a mental health day coming one day this week[8D]

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

I am considering running this as my tunnel outlet. I will sheet the plywood deck with 1/32 balsa to insulate the radio bay and keep the air going toward the exit. I will also have to do an exit ramp which will help protect my JR 8711.

Comments, directions?

Thanks,

Richard

flying skunks

My Feedback: (7)

sounds like that is a plan.

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

I built a box for the Hitec 5245 MG digital servo. Ply top and balsa sides CA'd with thick ca and then Sumo Glued down to the box. While the Sumo was expanding and setting I ran a bead of thick CA around it to hold it in place. I think this will work good.

What I really like is the programability of the digital servo. I now have 100% travel at 100% ATV. Always had trouble with that in the past.....getting it right.



Richard

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

I forgot to put the servo box on the scale but my guess is 1/4 oz. Sorry about the fuzzy pictures, my camera did not have its first cup of coffee yet

FBaity

My Feedback: (2)

This is a excellent thread and because I too am considering the PP 260 I appreciate your efforts to provide all of us this information. I plan the DA 100 w/ in cowl mufflers and JR servos and as I understand you information gathered of PP, CG could be a issue. I will IMAC the airplane as I am not a 3D guy.

Frank Baity
AMA 38026

Rick75

My Feedback: (3)

I'm building the same plane with the BME 102 for power. Are you using the pull-pull for the ruder or you are installing the ruder servo on the back of the plane?
Did you have any problems installing the canopy?

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

Hey Rick,

That BME ought to be cool. What trouble are you having on the canopy?

MY pull pull is next. I have the control horn in and cables to go. The manual says to measure us something like 3/4 inch which might be inteneded for the push pull. I just lined it up with the cable exits which is closer to 2 1/4 inches from the bottom.

I have been setting the canopy on and off and all appeared normal until your question. I had to enlarge two of the holes in the outside of the fuse (less than 1mm) as they did not line up very good. I think the socket head screws are 2mm and the same problem I had with one on the wheel pants arose. If you don't get the line up right on the first try the aluminum blind nuts are so frail that you wind up just taking them out and replacing. I will go to local parts house tommorrow for new bolts and blind nuts for canopy in SAE size.

Also the canop had about a 1.5 mm warp on one side where it did not sit flush. By pushing gently it would line up, I have seen that before on the AM 33% Yak. I sprayed the wood with water and bolted it on for a day to fix that problem and might try it here.

Still no parts, I guess the mail does not deliver today so maybe I will get to run it later rather than sooner.

Richard

Rick75

My Feedback: (3)

On my I have to send the bottom back of the canopy to fit right because it rubs against the bottom back of the fuselage on the canopy open area.

Bass1

The two replacement Canopys I had to get for my Rich Model Yak required quite a bit of sanding in the rear to get a decent fit. I'm really thinking it's the same people making these two airplanes. If it is and the they are using the same plastic for the canopy, be really careful not to drop it! The plastic is quite brittle and shatters very easily. [X(]

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

Thanks for the heads up Bass. I wonder if there is just one big facility building for the different American manufacturers?

In a new thread today on the Aeroworks there are many similarities at least in the pictures posted there. Different hardware yes, but the pre set wheel pants, the pre hinged everyting except one half of the rudder hinges, the top of the plywood radio bay appears to be very similar and the pre pinned and tabbed firewall with the top of the box cutout in my mind is IDENTICAL. Canopy seems very similar too.

Anywho, in the long run if the same manufacturer is designing and building your Rich model this plane and others it will come down to the basic manufacturer, the type plane (ie. Extra, Yak, Suhkoi etc) and the customer service and parts availibility of the USA company. I have been answered usually in less than a day and somethimes hours. While cleaning my wife has temporarily misplaced some of my hardware. One call and they were on the way the same day.

I did change those tiny aluminum blind nuts tonight and got the canopy mounted. As brought up by you and Rick 75 the canopy is not a perfect fit. Although I did not sand any of the canopy or frame I cheated and moved two of the holes and need to press down slightly to get the bolt started.

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

The 45 mm engine mounts came in today. I like the fit and finish better than my homemade wood blocks. (my carpentery skills were only at 75% that day)

With the PSP fender washers I hae 1 7/8 inch spacing which will give me 3/8 space between the cowl and the spinner back plate.

Richard

Bass1

I had to move the holes on mine and I also changed to 6/32 screws and blindnuts. If your plane has the same aluminum tubes to capture the mounting screws for the canopy as mine they will eventully ream out and go all the way through and you could loose your canopy. I epoxied appropriate sized washers and reinforced them with carbon fiber tape on the inside of the fuse at the tube ends so the screw heads wouldn't go though.

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

Yes I did the 6/32 screws and blind nuts tonight. If I understand you correctly you backed up the inside of the side wall where the screws come through to catch the tab with blind nut.

If that is so then I should be alright with the ply back from the factory, no?

Jake Ruddy

My Feedback: (40)

Good thread... results will be interesting.

Plane looks very nice!

Bass1

rdb, Your setup is different than my Yak. You should be fine.

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

I got alot accomplished last night. Will try to run the engine tonight.

I used 3/32 balsa sheeting to sheet the avionics bay from the pipe. It was easier than I thought and is done. Mount the pipe stand off and I won't have to go back in there any more.

Looks like I have the pull pull cable to go and cut the cowl plus the usual take em all loose and locktite which I like to do in one sitting so I don't miss anything. Also I used to locktite as I went along and then found I was taking apart again for one reason or another

The mounting of batteries and receiver always comes at the weight and balance.

Rich M.

Krazyc
Rich Mowery here the Extra is awesome plane on a DA85cc I have my Extra on one here's a picture of the
plane in hover and the smoke pouring. Also Bass on your 50cc you can order from Micro fastners the hatch bolts for your yak hatch as follows (socket hd cap screws M3x45mm long item number scm3045 10 pcs $3.60) and the washers are Flat washers with rubber backing item FWRB06 50 pcs rubber bk, Galv $2.20 with the Rubber backing washers be done with that screw going through the hatch tube and always loosing them. Rich you should order the washers for your hatch and you can also use them on the Yak cowl as I did Bass. And Richard Nice Graphics I cut them for our planes . Looks like my plane they also show well in hover mode.... And Thanks for displaying them. On the landing gear China puts a Carbon Fiber support inside glass gear and calls them Carbon Fiber. But they do sell a Carbon Fiber gear. But I would order a Carbon Fiber gear from TNT first or graph Tech before the China gear as they have delaminated on 35% and bigger 40% planes. 50cc good to go Carbon Fiber China gear. Richard looks like you went with the canister set up as the modifications are alot for tune pipe. I will be doing a tune pipe soon on a Extra 260. Really as a builder it's not that intense to do. (Like the thread) did airframe only come out to about 14 lbs? 85cc will take the market I think on 100cc on alot of these ARFs as the body of the Extra we have is in the right size for a 85cc.

Rich M.

Also guys glue your hatch carbon dowel pins in front on all three of my planes come loose after several flights and one of the extra lost the dowel taking canopy off to refuel and check plane after flight.
1/4 inch wood dowels go right back in holes nice if this happens to you. Just Epoxy the back side of the pins right off problem solved. This is my 100cc Extra proto type clear canopy.