Flyin Hawaiian

Joe, Yes, I have in other planes, but I plan to run these separately to the power box.

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

I have a friend that may know--I'll call him

Edit--couldn't get a hold of him last night.

Flyin Hawaiian

Heres another thing I am trying to work out, weather or not to put the ignition module and ignition battery in or outside the engine box.

So the question is, which way you guys prefer it, In or out of the box? ( Boy, thats a loaded question)

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

How about mounting it on top of the engine box on a piece of its own ply. Just scew the ply down across the top to hold it. Double sided tape, foam and a wrap of velcro. It looks like the bottom has no room for it. The sides are bad because it's a twin and the plugs are on both sides.

yarom

My Feedback: (82)

I would install it protected inside the motor box and drill two holes on the sides for the leads going to the cylinders.

Flyjets

My Feedback: (51)

Flyin Hawaiian

I would wait and see how the Model is going to Balance out before deciding the Location of the Ignition unit.

If it is like Most of the 100cc Models the Outside of the Engine Box on the side works.

This way you would get airflow around it. Especially good if you have a Lith Ion with a Regulator setup.

Ian

Flyin Hawaiian

Hey guys, thanks for the response,

I have done it both ways with-out any failures. My 102" QQ Yak has module on the outside w/ battery & regulator. My AW QB Extra 260 had the ignition gear inside of the box.

On this project I am opting to go with NiMh 1900-2700 mah battery. I am not going to put an on/off switch or regulator. Since I have a Smart-Fly Optical Cut-off switch. I can shut the ignition down with this at the field. I just got to unplug the battery when I get done flying. By eliminating the switch and regulator it will be as light as a 1900 mah li-po w/ reg and switch, and I eliminate two potential failure points.

One of my flying buds VooDoo aka Krillbill, had his Fromeco Regulators fail........twice, causing him much damage to his brand new 35% Krill Katana. The plane has been repaired and flying again. But needless to say, he almost lost the plane all together.

I will probably just put the module on top of the box, so I would not have to drill out a big hole on the sides of the motor box for the plug wires. I will put the NiMH batter inside the box next to the Smart-Fly Optical Cut-off receiver, this should help keep the battery cool and away from the heat of the engine.

I already have two Duralite 4000 mah Lith-ion redundant batteries and will be using them on my Duralite 40/16 Power box. I will mount those last after the whole plane is almost put together so I can adjust for CG. With Carbon fiber pipes, I may not need to mount these batteries too far forward.

Flyin Hawaiian

GalenB

My Feedback: (18)

It depends upon the tailwheel style and how the it is mounted. If you use a Haigh style tailwheel then you definately won't need to remove the tailwheel. If there is enough distance between the bottom of the rudder and the tailwheel struct to bend the wire to one side then it will be easy to slide the music wire hinge out the bottom.

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

Rennie--how did it fly with the single 8711 on the rudder ?

Flyin Hawaiian

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

I take it not as good as 2 5955's ?

Flyin Hawaiian

Hey All,

Well the weekend was very busy. Unfortunately very little had to do with building, much less flying. Anyway I did find sometime to make a little progress tonight. Got the stabs assembled, sealed the hinge lines, and ready to bolt on the plane. Assembly was pretty straight forward and very much like the 88" Yak except bigger. Same single drop servo, root mounted design.

martinarcher

My Feedback: (10)

Man those are big stabs - I like them!

Flyin Hawaiian

Wings are typical set-up, with two aileron servos. Wings are hinged, assembled w/ servos and linkages. Just got to dial in and double check servo matching on the Hitec Digital Servo Programmer. The HS 5955 Servos were pre-programmed on the bench for end point adj., centering, and direction. Hinge line is fairly straight with about 1/16" and tighter gap, and eight Robart style hinges. Gap is satisfactory to me. I don't think I will seal the aileron hinge line. What do you guys think, should I seal the hinge line?

xtraflyr

My Feedback: (11)

Come on Rennie,Don't be lazy!! Like I always say at work."We never have time to do it right,but always have time to do it over"!!!
Cya,
Frank

martinarcher

My Feedback: (10)

He's right - seal them - you'll thank yourself when you put her into that first rock solid harrier!

I told myself I would seal the hinges on my profile later since I wanted to get it in the air quick when I was building it. That was 2 years ago and they still need sealed!

Flyin Hawaiian

I am glad to see you guys are paying attention. I always seal the hinge gap on the alelvators and ailerons. It insures optimum performance and deflection efficiency![sm=thumbup.gif]

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Good man.

xtraflyr

My Feedback: (11)

Your such a kidder Rennie!!

Flyin Hawaiian

Frank, How cold is it in Jersey! Orlando today 81 and partly sunny!

martinarcher

My Feedback: (10)

Don't tell me. [] There's snow on the ground in Western PA.

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

lucky dog--42 deg here--about 20 min from Atlantic City

xtraflyr

My Feedback: (11)

Right now,it's 37,rainy,all around really crappy.[:-] Im about 30 min. from PA and 45 min.from NYC. Im Jealous Rennie!! But you see thats why your a better flyer then most,just because you can get out and fly more!!HAHAHAA!!!

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

Rennie--what size are the SWB arms for the rudder ? im guessing one is a 4" offset and the other a 3" ?