Lanier 94" Yak help
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
ORIGINAL: matfree
What to do about the baffle???? Well i got the bottom baffle set up just fine. Now we go to the top cowl area for the baffle and I am having trouble trying to make somthing work so i can take the cowl off with the mufflers on. So are you guys just cutting around the muffler all the way to the back of the cowl so you can just slip it on strait? Some help would be great!
What to do about the baffle???? Well i got the bottom baffle set up just fine. Now we go to the top cowl area for the baffle and I am having trouble trying to make somthing work so i can take the cowl off with the mufflers on. So are you guys just cutting around the muffler all the way to the back of the cowl so you can just slip it on strait? Some help would be great!
#502
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
WELL I HAVE A BOTTOM PIECE SET UP LIKE 2ROBINHOODS. BUT WHEN YOU TAKE THE COWL OFF ITS REALLY TIGHT AND THE TOP HALF OF THE COWL HAS TO TOUCH THE TOP OF THE CRANK SHAFT WHEN U PUT IT ON OR TAKE IT OFF. I GUESS I WILL HAVE TO MAKE A SET UP WHERE I CAN PUT A TOP BAFFLE ON AFTER THE COWL IS IN PLACE. JUST WAS WONDERING WHAT HE DID TO SECURE HIS TOP HALF BAFFLE.
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
My top baffle:
Made it like the bottom baffle. ( balsa )
I installed three blind nuts in some ply on back side of baffle and one in the center ( tell you about the center one later ).
I lay the baffle on top of the engine till I get the cowl on and mounted.
I then screw a bolt in the center blind nut and use it as a handle to hold and pull the baffle in position.
I then put the three main holding bolts through the face of the cowl and into the blind nuts.
Unscrew the center bolt used as a handle , put it in you tool box.
Top baffle is held in place by three bolts through the face of the cowl.
Baffle fits as tight as bottom baffle and you never even see the little bolt hole of the center handle bolt.
Made it like the bottom baffle. ( balsa )
I installed three blind nuts in some ply on back side of baffle and one in the center ( tell you about the center one later ).
I lay the baffle on top of the engine till I get the cowl on and mounted.
I then screw a bolt in the center blind nut and use it as a handle to hold and pull the baffle in position.
I then put the three main holding bolts through the face of the cowl and into the blind nuts.
Unscrew the center bolt used as a handle , put it in you tool box.
Top baffle is held in place by three bolts through the face of the cowl.
Baffle fits as tight as bottom baffle and you never even see the little bolt hole of the center handle bolt.
#504
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
Hey guys,
I cut the front half of my exploded wheel pants off and am going to use them as 1/4 pants like the full scale.
I'll make a plywood rail to connect to the landing gear and fill them with expanding foam.
What do ya think?
I cut the front half of my exploded wheel pants off and am going to use them as 1/4 pants like the full scale.
I'll make a plywood rail to connect to the landing gear and fill them with expanding foam.
What do ya think?
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
ORIGINAL: matfree
This hangar 9 fiberglass pilot 35%-40% with a flip up visor fits really well with the size of the canopy!
This hangar 9 fiberglass pilot 35%-40% with a flip up visor fits really well with the size of the canopy!
#508
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
Here is the link for the instrument panel. I had to cut them out and just ca'd them. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXADL8
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
Well I forget who was asking for the pictures of my elevator mounted servos ..... your out of luck LOL, I tore the mounts out and covered the holes over today. I decided I would rather have the servos in the Fuse, I would rather put the stabs on and only have to put on one 1/4 4-40 nut then plug in the servo wire every time. I don't like the Idea of having to bunch up a lot of wire in the fuse and with lots of unplugging and such there is more chance for failure, I lopped off the plug and hardwired it to the extension.
Anyway I finished about 90 percent of the wiring today, only thing left is the ignition and the ailerons, switches, batteries, tail servos and receiver are all installed. now I just gotta wait another month to get my engine [:@]. Outta monies again hehe.
Anyway I finished about 90 percent of the wiring today, only thing left is the ignition and the ailerons, switches, batteries, tail servos and receiver are all installed. now I just gotta wait another month to get my engine [:@]. Outta monies again hehe.
#511
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
Hey axxiss, I feel ya on bunching up a lot of wire in the fuse. Here's how I handled mine. I didn't want to have to bolt and unbolt linkages everytime I went flying, as this plane won't fit into any of my vehicles with the stabs on. There's no excess wire in my fuse. All is strung tightly through the fuse with just the amount shown in the pic extending. I glued a fabricated plastic frame to the outside of fuse, in direct alignment with the oval cutout that exists in the stab root rib. My wire is glued to the frame, so that little amount is there permanently. The only wire that's bunched up is the actual servo lead, and there is plenty room for it in the stab, but also restrictive enough that once the plug is connected it will nestle in there without a bunch of flopping around. I'm using the Gator Clips shown to connect the plugs and insure they won't detach. I love these things .. they attach in about a second, and they won't come off until you pry them off. There is no strain on the wires at all. They pry off quickly as well. So, attaching my stabs is as easy as plugging the connectors, snap on a saftey clip, slide it up, and bolt down the stabs to the fuse.
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
ORIGINAL: matfree
could you send some pics of your baffle??
could you send some pics of your baffle??
Here are some picture of the baffles.
Sorry for you guys that aren't interested, because there are some pictures.
But, hopefully this will help some others.
Also, I will take any suggestion of something different and different ideas.
This is my 1st time doing any baffles.
Bottom baffle is balsa and fiberglassed in place in the cowl.
This is construction of the top baffle.
Made of balsa with ply backers for blind nuts.
Three outer blind nuts are the mounting bolts, small blind nut in the center is just for handing/lining up the baffle for mounting.
This is the back side veiw.
Side veiw, top baffle.
Front veiw, top baffle.
Top baffle with handling screw in.
I lay the top baffle on top of the engine.
I then slip the cowl on and mount it.
Note the three holes drilled in the upper face of the cowl.
Use the center handle screw to move top baffle into position and use three mounting bolts to secure into postion.
I put o-rings behind the head of the mounting bolts and painted the head red to blend in with the cowl.
When installed the mounting bolts are hardly visable and then take out the small handing screw from the center.
#514
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
Fishing line? I was going to use dental floss and a drop of CA on my connectors that were permanent, but these clips are just so easy. I like the quick on - quick off these provide.
#515
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
Man, you guys have made this bargain bird into a show-bird. Kudos to you guys.
My beat up bird, on the other hand, is ready for re-maiden. I have the DA-85 back from DA , it was re-sealed.
I cut the bottom of the cowl out almost completely. I re-straightened the landing gear in a vise....it is ugly, but almost straight!!!!
I beefed the all motor box joints , again. If I had the time , I would love to make mine as nice as yours, Mitsu. Nice job, I am a big fan of elevator mounted servos, the geometery is the big reason I love it. The convenience is the reward for the work.
Hopefully, I can get a few gallons through her , putting around breaking in the engine, this weekend.
My beat up bird, on the other hand, is ready for re-maiden. I have the DA-85 back from DA , it was re-sealed.
I cut the bottom of the cowl out almost completely. I re-straightened the landing gear in a vise....it is ugly, but almost straight!!!!
I beefed the all motor box joints , again. If I had the time , I would love to make mine as nice as yours, Mitsu. Nice job, I am a big fan of elevator mounted servos, the geometery is the big reason I love it. The convenience is the reward for the work.
Hopefully, I can get a few gallons through her , putting around breaking in the engine, this weekend.
#516
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
Well, .. I still haven't maidened mine. I had hoped to do that yesterday but I'm running a bit behind schedule and haven't finished the radio setup yet. Here are a few pics of where I am at. Got the graphics on it. Got the baffling finished. Helmet Head is the Precision Aerobatics 32-35% version, and the wheel pants are Hangar 9 Cap 232. It'll be a while before I can do more ... vacation time [8D]
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
Hey Steve
You can buy the RCGF engines from me.
www.zrcgf.com
That's me. I am the North American distributor for the line up. We are getting the new 50cc in stock next week.
Best regards
Henry
You can buy the RCGF engines from me.
www.zrcgf.com
That's me. I am the North American distributor for the line up. We are getting the new 50cc in stock next week.
Best regards
Henry
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
Ditto, I would be embarassed to put mine next to Mitsu's.
Mine is quite the ugly , beat-up duckling.
I am really interested in comments and perceptions on different CG Locations.
I have my CG just at the edge or a little forward of the trailing edge of the tube. It still needs a slight amount of up trim for level flight upright, flipped on it's lid, a slight push is needed. This location according to the specs is behind the rearmost recommended point.
I want it farther back still,. High speed KE takes almost full rudder. And it seems top heavy in a hover. I fly an EF and I can't stop comparing the two, although they are vastly differently shaped machines.
Upright full elevator, power on flat spins look great. It does them so easily , I could train someone to do the manuever on this bird.
With the this CG it drops down for landing like a trainer. Tail up landings, even dead stick, are a piece of cake.
My 85 is running cooler and better with the bottom gutted out of the cowl.
Batteries are charging up, and today will be more tune up.
Mine is quite the ugly , beat-up duckling.
I am really interested in comments and perceptions on different CG Locations.
I have my CG just at the edge or a little forward of the trailing edge of the tube. It still needs a slight amount of up trim for level flight upright, flipped on it's lid, a slight push is needed. This location according to the specs is behind the rearmost recommended point.
I want it farther back still,. High speed KE takes almost full rudder. And it seems top heavy in a hover. I fly an EF and I can't stop comparing the two, although they are vastly differently shaped machines.
Upright full elevator, power on flat spins look great. It does them so easily , I could train someone to do the manuever on this bird.
With the this CG it drops down for landing like a trainer. Tail up landings, even dead stick, are a piece of cake.
My 85 is running cooler and better with the bottom gutted out of the cowl.
Batteries are charging up, and today will be more tune up.
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
I haven't flown yet, but I'm wondering about the CG as well. I have two fairly hefty batteries in the recess just before the engine box and I'm balancing just aft of the 7 1/4" rearward range the manual gives. I noticed in 2robinhoods video he said he was having a time slowing the plane down enough to land like he wanted. I don't remember if he said where it balanced at, but a forward CG makes 'em want to come in a little hotter. (?) It sure didn't look like a forward CG though from what I remember. I'm inclined to believe the balance range in the book is safely forward without saying so.
#522
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
Bosshossv8,
You say you have your CG just at the edge or a little forward of the trailing edge of the tube. That would be @ 8 1/2" back from the leading edge , right?
Mitsu1
You are @ 7 1/4" back from leading edge, Right?
I had mine set @7" from the leading edge for the maiden, but was thinking about 7 3/4" - 8" ( center of wing tube ) for the next few flight to see how that feels.
My wing tube is front edge is @ 7" and back edge is @ 8 1/2"
Manual says 6 7/8" to 7 1/4" Bosshossv8 is another 1 1/4" beyond that.
You say you have your CG just at the edge or a little forward of the trailing edge of the tube. That would be @ 8 1/2" back from the leading edge , right?
Mitsu1
You are @ 7 1/4" back from leading edge, Right?
I had mine set @7" from the leading edge for the maiden, but was thinking about 7 3/4" - 8" ( center of wing tube ) for the next few flight to see how that feels.
My wing tube is front edge is @ 7" and back edge is @ 8 1/2"
Manual says 6 7/8" to 7 1/4" Bosshossv8 is another 1 1/4" beyond that.
#523
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
are all you guys checking CG with empty tanks. ? I have a 50cc plane with a CG mounted fuel tank and cg checks are done dry with no adverse results. on this bird I plan to do them both wet and dry to check the difference.
Seems to me though that if you check CG with tank empty and then fill it up it's going to be nose heavy for the First part of the flight then settle into correct balance at the end ( tank empty ) . Once my DL 100 gets here I will work on balance and note any effect fuel has for sure.
BTW here are some more pics of my electronics install . Receiver, tail group servos , switch and external data/bind port done. Trying to keep it a bit clean. Also more pictures of last weekend. Right now I am going on the assumption that it will balance with the batteries in either of the 2 configurations you see. actually 3 configurations if you move just one battery to a rearward position. I think looking @2robinhood's setup his batteries are close to where mine are but mine are a bit heavier being A123. I only sealed the Front half of the bottom of the fuse . if I get a fuel leak I hope it's on the ground ( But I build my tanks bullet proof, Safety wire, barbs etc ) I also will have a couple small drain holes in front of each former from the first one back of the firewall to the front edge of the Turtledeck
Seems to me though that if you check CG with tank empty and then fill it up it's going to be nose heavy for the First part of the flight then settle into correct balance at the end ( tank empty ) . Once my DL 100 gets here I will work on balance and note any effect fuel has for sure.
BTW here are some more pics of my electronics install . Receiver, tail group servos , switch and external data/bind port done. Trying to keep it a bit clean. Also more pictures of last weekend. Right now I am going on the assumption that it will balance with the batteries in either of the 2 configurations you see. actually 3 configurations if you move just one battery to a rearward position. I think looking @2robinhood's setup his batteries are close to where mine are but mine are a bit heavier being A123. I only sealed the Front half of the bottom of the fuse . if I get a fuel leak I hope it's on the ground ( But I build my tanks bullet proof, Safety wire, barbs etc ) I also will have a couple small drain holes in front of each former from the first one back of the firewall to the front edge of the Turtledeck
#524
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
ORIGINAL: Mitsu1
I haven't flown yet, but I'm wondering about the CG as well. I have two fairly hefty batteries in the recess just before the engine box and I'm balancing just aft of the 7 1/4" rearward range the manual gives. I noticed in 2robinhoods video he said he was having a time slowing the plane down enough to land like he wanted. I don't remember if he said where it balanced at, but a forward CG makes 'em want to come in a little hotter. (?) It sure didn't look like a forward CG though from what I remember. I'm inclined to believe the balance range in the book is safely forward without saying so.
I haven't flown yet, but I'm wondering about the CG as well. I have two fairly hefty batteries in the recess just before the engine box and I'm balancing just aft of the 7 1/4" rearward range the manual gives. I noticed in 2robinhoods video he said he was having a time slowing the plane down enough to land like he wanted. I don't remember if he said where it balanced at, but a forward CG makes 'em want to come in a little hotter. (?) It sure didn't look like a forward CG though from what I remember. I'm inclined to believe the balance range in the book is safely forward without saying so.
my cg is 7 6/16" back, but i will be moving it back another 1/2" to 7 14/16" for tomorrow, my fuel tanks site right in the middle of the CG, my maiden flight resulted with no elevator trim, 1 click right aileron, a very nice flight, and she landed very nice and slow, my low idol was at 1,390 rpm before my flight and was at 1320 when i landed, and the rest of the day all my Renaults were comparable, you cant go wrong with the rear CG
#525
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RE: Lanier 94" Yak help
I am doing my CG with tanks empty.
I put my tanks under the wing tube, hoping for little to no change as fuel and smoke burn off.
They are foward a little but not by much.
I put my tanks under the wing tube, hoping for little to no change as fuel and smoke burn off.
They are foward a little but not by much.