Gaiotto

Dear friends,

I´m in the processing of building tgis huge plane by hangar 9, but I have some trouble with the rudder hinging. Anyone have some tips to help me to assemble this rudder with the included hinge wire? I´m thinking to pull of these hinges and put some robart 3/16 pont hinges on that, could this possible? Regardless of structure of tail post and rudder? I´m thinking to drill a hole just in the center of the hinges that came from Hangar 9 (already instaled) and put hinge point. What do you guys thinking about that? I´m still accepting tips for mounting this rudder on factory hinges and pont hinges.

Thanks,
Gaiotto

randy racer

My Feedback: (3)

i had the same problem with mine and it is a easy fix. go to the hobby shop and buy some piano wire the same size as the one they sent with the kit. it will be stiffer and go in better. now chuck it in your drimel tool or a drill and spin it in, it should run right in.

randy

Bass1

If they are the "Dubro" heavy duty hinges then .047" is the correct size music wire.

pcm

My Feedback: (13)

Try needle nose pliers and grab the wire just below each hinge and push it through. It seemed to work for me.

Good luck, pcm.

Gaiotto

Ok, but there is much space between the surfaces (tail post leading edge and rudder trailing edge) this is normal? I find that when I mount the rudder just for check...the Robart hinge points should not would be good in this case?

Thanks for reply

pcm

My Feedback: (13)

Does not sound normal. The wire on mine fills the space between the tail post and rudder.

pcm

vertical ts

My Feedback: (50)

Chuck it in a cordless drill and pull the trigger.Thats how I did mine.

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

There will be a gap, but the wire will fill most of it once it is in. IF you don't like the gap afterwards, seal it with some Blenderm tape.
As for getting the wire through all the holes with little to no hassle, clean the wire with alcohol very good, sand the tip of the wire to a needle point, spray a light coat of WD-40 on it, chuck it up in your drill, and "snake" it through each set of hinges. using the drill is the real kicker here - makes the whole process a breeze.

DO NOT go through the hassle of redoing the hinging, especially with robarts! There is not enough material for that style of hinge to install properly, for one, and you would TOTALLY defeat the purpose of the quick, simple assembly of this plane, IMO.

Gaiotto

Ok Guys thanks for reply,

Finally I got some piano wire and use the metod that you listed, man it´s a piece of cake...the wire goes thru all the hinges and theres no gap sice the wire fill the gap. This plane is such a nice plane.

Thanks again
Gaiotto

Gaiotto

Hi Guys,

Does really need to change the weels to 4' and the whell shaft to 3/16' ? what is the best setup with the DA 100, stock mufflers or the cans?

Thanks
Gaiotto

randy racer

My Feedback: (3)

for sure go to bigger wheels and stronger axles, mine bent after very few flights. i also went with stock DA mufflers. we don't have any problems with noise here so i go for the light weight option. cans will add a pound or more and cost alot more. mine came in at 25lbs and 14 oz without spinner and wheel paints. i have added a ligt weight True Turn spinner now but still no pants. the fields i fly off of eat wheel paints. i had my doubts about this plane but it has won me over big time, i think you will love flying yours.

randy

Gaiotto

Ok Randy,

Do you think the Slimline mufflers for DA 100 will fit the cowl without problem? Do you think the 4´wheels are suficient?

Thanks
Gaiotto

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

Randy has it right. Yes, the 4" wheels and upgraded axles are a must. and if you don't go crazy on equipment choices, you can come in under 26 pounds with the stock mufflers, so you will have plenty of power.
The slimlines will work just fine, but the compacts are lighter, I believe, and maybe cheaper.

randy racer

My Feedback: (3)

i used the regular stock DA mufflers and they fit fine.

rr

Gaiotto

Talking on equipament choices,

What do you think is the best choice for batteries, power expander, servos, switches etc? And what do you guys are using on this plane? The muffler for DA from Troybuilt models is a good choice, the compact one?

Thanks for reply and sorry for many questions,
Gaiotto

randy racer

My Feedback: (3)

my set up has been the same on the last 4 35% planes i have had no power expander- one receiver -
two fromeco 2400 packs with regs on receiver and one on ignition- fromeco switches- smartfly ignition kill switch. i used Jr servos only for a long time but had problems so i use hitech 5955 tg's now and have had 0 problems and now have no need for match boxes.
simple set up that works for me but there is more than one way to skin a cat as they say. haha!

randy

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

I am running dual 2300 A123's on the receiver, and the same on the ignition. I am using a Smart-fly Power Expander Pro and the batteries go directly into them - no switches, no regulators. The Power expander pro has its own internal switch that I use.

randy racer

My Feedback: (3)

so what do you think about the A123's so far body works.

rr