Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
#151
RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
I updated my picture site with new pics of the Pitts, now with decals and 4.5'' CF spinner.
http://picasaweb.google.com/cerosas/...02772002850962
http://picasaweb.google.com/cerosas/...02772002850962
#152
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
It is great to see more flight reports guys! This project took a looooooong time....and hearing about the different impressions for you guys is a rare but welcome thing for me see online.
cheers,
George
cheers,
George
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
I've started building mine. It seems pretty comparable in quality to the GP Cap that I built last year. Whoever writes the instruction manuals for Great Planes does an incredible job! The design is very well thought out and so far I'm really enjoying the build.
The only negative thing that I've encountered with mine is that the Monokote was extremely wrinkled, so much so that even spending a day with a covering iron and heat gun with a friend of mine who has a lot of experience scratch-building, couldn't fix it. Still lots of wrinkles everywhere. I'm sure she'll look great in the air though, and I can't say that it's so significant a problem that I wouldn't buy the same plane again. The proof, however, will be in the flying.
The only negative thing that I've encountered with mine is that the Monokote was extremely wrinkled, so much so that even spending a day with a covering iron and heat gun with a friend of mine who has a lot of experience scratch-building, couldn't fix it. Still lots of wrinkles everywhere. I'm sure she'll look great in the air though, and I can't say that it's so significant a problem that I wouldn't buy the same plane again. The proof, however, will be in the flying.
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
I too am about 3/4 of the way to finishing mine. I have found only a couple of issues so far. First the covering job is just horrible, way too many wrinkles, even burned a hole in one sport trying to get one out. The other was I ended up using 4 24inch extensions instead of 2 as the manual stated, but I may have misread it somewhere. lol As far as the rest of the airframe I sure like how it was built, nice job. I installed a DLE 55 w a Spektrum setup. I too am looking forward to flying...
Wilki
Wilki
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
Wrinkles in the covering is something we deal with on all ARFs. It is painfull to read about them....but they happen. Until climate controlled sea-going containers are the norm.....it will happen.
George
George
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
I guess I didn't see the wrinkles as a huge issue until I tried to iron them out. I have a lot of planes and I expect them to arrive with a few wrinkles. Generally speaking though, it just takes a few minutes with a heat gun and they're gone (or nearly gone). This one just wouldn't iron out. My friend who came over and helped me with it has built a lot of planes from scratch. His comment was that maybe I'm just used to Ultracote which tends to be easier to work with, at least on wrinkles. I don't personally know if that's true, but I do know that of my roughly 50 or so airplanes, this one has the worst covering.
Again, I don't want to diminish from the plane. I LOVE the plane. I'd probably buy it again. I'm really looking forward to flying it. But that covering's just not the best.
I'm traveling on business this week, but when I get back home I'll try to post a few pictures.
Again, I don't want to diminish from the plane. I LOVE the plane. I'd probably buy it again. I'm really looking forward to flying it. But that covering's just not the best.
I'm traveling on business this week, but when I get back home I'll try to post a few pictures.
#158
RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
I'm using a DA 50 with Slimline Pitts. After the first flight I noticed that a lot of oil entered into the cowl because de pitts output is not outside the cowl.
To fix that I used two silicon tubes to extend the exausts outside the cowl. Now it ok, with all oil/smoke outside the plane.
To fix that I used two silicon tubes to extend the exausts outside the cowl. Now it ok, with all oil/smoke outside the plane.
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
ORIGINAL: Ed_Brazil
I'm using a DA 50 with Slimline Pitts. After the first flight I noticed that a lot of oil entered into the cowl because de pitts output is not outside the cowl.
To fix that I used two silicon tubes to extend the exausts outside the cowl. Now it ok, with all oil/smoke outside the plane.
I'm using a DA 50 with Slimline Pitts. After the first flight I noticed that a lot of oil entered into the cowl because de pitts output is not outside the cowl.
To fix that I used two silicon tubes to extend the exausts outside the cowl. Now it ok, with all oil/smoke outside the plane.
Thanks!
#160
RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
No I didn't. It's original gray, and I have more than 20 landings and everything is fine with the landgear...
Btw, "GP G-Rod", why the landing gear is not white like the CF struts?
Btw, "GP G-Rod", why the landing gear is not white like the CF struts?
#161
RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
ORIGINAL: GP G-Rod
Wrinkles in the covering is something we deal with on all ARFs. It is painfull to read about them....but they happen. Until climate controlled sea-going containers are the norm.....it will happen.
George
Wrinkles in the covering is something we deal with on all ARFs. It is painfull to read about them....but they happen. Until climate controlled sea-going containers are the norm.....it will happen.
George
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
Interesting tone.
Did you also receive a 25% GP Pitts M12s with some wrinkles?
Nice use of exclamation points. Very excitable.
Have a great day.
Did you also receive a 25% GP Pitts M12s with some wrinkles?
Nice use of exclamation points. Very excitable.
Have a great day.
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
A couple of notes for anyone building this one.
- Be very careful not to over-tighten the 4-40 bolts inside the fuse that hold the cabanes on. The blind nuts aren't the greatest quality and if you strip one, you'll need to be a contortionist to get it out and replace it, especially if it's one toward the front of the plane. Trust me on that one.
- It might be worth considering some method of retaining the nylon wing-bolts in the bottom wing. The belly pan just has 4 open holes which are not perfectly aligned with the actual bolt holes. The rear holes on mine are a bit forward and toward the center rather than being aligned with the wing holes. I am already imagining myself trying to drop the bolts into the holes when I go to fly this thing. More than likely I will end up having to hold the airplane over my head and shake it to get the bolt to roll to one of the holes, then having someone grab it with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Not the best design, so you might want to come up with some strategy for retaining the bolt in the wing to prevent it from coming out. But of course, these are also nylon bolts, so at some point you'll need to replace them which means that whatever retention method you use will need to be only semi-permanent.
- Be very careful not to over-tighten the 4-40 bolts inside the fuse that hold the cabanes on. The blind nuts aren't the greatest quality and if you strip one, you'll need to be a contortionist to get it out and replace it, especially if it's one toward the front of the plane. Trust me on that one.
- It might be worth considering some method of retaining the nylon wing-bolts in the bottom wing. The belly pan just has 4 open holes which are not perfectly aligned with the actual bolt holes. The rear holes on mine are a bit forward and toward the center rather than being aligned with the wing holes. I am already imagining myself trying to drop the bolts into the holes when I go to fly this thing. More than likely I will end up having to hold the airplane over my head and shake it to get the bolt to roll to one of the holes, then having someone grab it with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Not the best design, so you might want to come up with some strategy for retaining the bolt in the wing to prevent it from coming out. But of course, these are also nylon bolts, so at some point you'll need to replace them which means that whatever retention method you use will need to be only semi-permanent.
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
ORIGINAL: brwilkins
A couple of notes for anyone building this one.
- Be very careful not to over-tighten the 4-40 bolts inside the fuse that hold the cabanes on. The blind nuts aren't the greatest quality and if you strip one, you'll need to be a contortionist to get it out and replace it, especially if it's one toward the front of the plane. Trust me on that one.
- It might be worth considering some method of retaining the nylon wing-bolts in the bottom wing. The belly pan just has 4 open holes which are not perfectly aligned with the actual bolt holes. The rear holes on mine are a bit forward and toward the center rather than being aligned with the wing holes. I am already imagining myself trying to drop the bolts into the holes when I go to fly this thing. More than likely I will end up having to hold the airplane over my head and shake it to get the bolt to roll to one of the holes, then having someone grab it with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Not the best design, so you might want to come up with some strategy for retaining the bolt in the wing to prevent it from coming out. But of course, these are also nylon bolts, so at some point you'll need to replace them which means that whatever retention method you use will need to be only semi-permanent.
A couple of notes for anyone building this one.
- Be very careful not to over-tighten the 4-40 bolts inside the fuse that hold the cabanes on. The blind nuts aren't the greatest quality and if you strip one, you'll need to be a contortionist to get it out and replace it, especially if it's one toward the front of the plane. Trust me on that one.
- It might be worth considering some method of retaining the nylon wing-bolts in the bottom wing. The belly pan just has 4 open holes which are not perfectly aligned with the actual bolt holes. The rear holes on mine are a bit forward and toward the center rather than being aligned with the wing holes. I am already imagining myself trying to drop the bolts into the holes when I go to fly this thing. More than likely I will end up having to hold the airplane over my head and shake it to get the bolt to roll to one of the holes, then having someone grab it with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Not the best design, so you might want to come up with some strategy for retaining the bolt in the wing to prevent it from coming out. But of course, these are also nylon bolts, so at some point you'll need to replace them which means that whatever retention method you use will need to be only semi-permanent.
What I did was take the plastic lid from a empty coffee tin and made 4 washer-style retainers. These look like plastic washers, but the hole is smaller than 1/4". The nylon bolt is passed thru the wing and the washer is screwed down until it touches the wing. These will prevent the screws from falling out. BTW - I replaced the stock screws with ones that use an Allen wrench. I use a ball driver to tighten & loosen the bolts.
Bliksem
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
Hey blikseme300,
Just wanted to say thanks for posting your pictures. When I put the wings on for the first time I couldn't figure out why both of the mounting struts lean outward at the top. Looks like that's intentional, assuming you put yours together the same way I am. LOL!!
http://bliksemseplek.com/images/m12/maiden2_lg.jpg This picture will help anyone else who stumbles onto this and wonders why the mounting struts seem crooked.
Just wanted to say thanks for posting your pictures. When I put the wings on for the first time I couldn't figure out why both of the mounting struts lean outward at the top. Looks like that's intentional, assuming you put yours together the same way I am. LOL!!
http://bliksemseplek.com/images/m12/maiden2_lg.jpg This picture will help anyone else who stumbles onto this and wonders why the mounting struts seem crooked.
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
Sorry to hear about the covering issues...
Out of curiosity...
Was the wrinkled covering where a color was laid on another color??
Or was it a Single color applied?
Problem with monokote, is once it is down, it is almost impossible to get wrinkles out...
In applying monokote, I have found you have to apply it like you are placing a sticker on the wood/
Start in the middle and work your way out to the edges. Especially if it
is a contour surface...
Out of curiosity...
Was the wrinkled covering where a color was laid on another color??
Or was it a Single color applied?
Problem with monokote, is once it is down, it is almost impossible to get wrinkles out...
In applying monokote, I have found you have to apply it like you are placing a sticker on the wood/
Start in the middle and work your way out to the edges. Especially if it
is a contour surface...
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
The wrinkles are in both the layered areas and the non-layered areas. I'm really surprised at how bad it is. I have the GP 27% Cap 232 and it came almost wrinkle-free and that's a much older airplane. You would think the quality would get better over time, not worse. Right?
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
More building notes for anyone who stumbles onto this thread through a Google search looking for tips.
When you install the metal X bracket on the bottom of the tail, the manual tells you to look for a plywood plate with two pre-drilled holes. On mine at least, the pre-drilled holes do not exist and I spent considerable time with a small pin poking around trying to find them. Now here's the important part: if you have the same problem that I did, be VERY careful about placement of the X bracket if you have to drill your own holes to mount it. I found what felt like the plywood plate and going by the pictures in the manual showing the relationship to the monokote trim to the bracket, I drilled the two holes and reinforced them with thin CA before putting the screws in. There is not a lot of wiggle room in the lengths of CF that attach to the bracket. So, if you need to drill your own holes, I suggest connecting the rods to the bottom of the stab and then attaching them to the X bracket before you drill your holes and mount it. this way will assure that you don't end up with the rods being too short. Mine came out okay, although it was tight enough on one side that I had to do without the nuts that go against the clevises.
When you install the metal X bracket on the bottom of the tail, the manual tells you to look for a plywood plate with two pre-drilled holes. On mine at least, the pre-drilled holes do not exist and I spent considerable time with a small pin poking around trying to find them. Now here's the important part: if you have the same problem that I did, be VERY careful about placement of the X bracket if you have to drill your own holes to mount it. I found what felt like the plywood plate and going by the pictures in the manual showing the relationship to the monokote trim to the bracket, I drilled the two holes and reinforced them with thin CA before putting the screws in. There is not a lot of wiggle room in the lengths of CF that attach to the bracket. So, if you need to drill your own holes, I suggest connecting the rods to the bottom of the stab and then attaching them to the X bracket before you drill your holes and mount it. this way will assure that you don't end up with the rods being too short. Mine came out okay, although it was tight enough on one side that I had to do without the nuts that go against the clevises.
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
Would one of you kind gents who happens to have a flexible tape measure mind measuring the diameter of the cowl on this bird? I've got the Cox 27% equivalent and my cowl has taken some damage. I'm considering buying one from this GP plane and painting it, if it's a close enough match.
Many thanks!
Todd
Many thanks!
Todd
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
ORIGINAL: brwilkins
The wrinkles are in both the layered areas and the non-layered areas. I'm really surprised at how bad it is. I have the GP 27% Cap 232 and it came almost wrinkle-free and that's a much older airplane. You would think the quality would get better over time, not worse. Right?
The wrinkles are in both the layered areas and the non-layered areas. I'm really surprised at how bad it is. I have the GP 27% Cap 232 and it came almost wrinkle-free and that's a much older airplane. You would think the quality would get better over time, not worse. Right?
I would call up Hobbico and see what they have to say about it...
I have returned a 100cc plane to them due to the wrinkles in monokote,
and they were more than willing to take the wrinkled one, and send out a new one...
This was with tower hobbies though, not hobbico...
I also didn't start assembling mine before I sent it back, had I started on it, it may have turned out differently.
Either way, I would call them up....
I hate to say it ( I am a huge supporter of Hobbico products) but MOnokote can be absolutely disastrous
If not applied right from the factory.
Yes some wrinkles occur, but when they are already shrunk and stuck, it is very difficult to fix...
If not nearly impossible... ( I had a giant p-51 that the factory burned the hell out of the covering, in attempt to shrink the covering
and it separated the clear from the sticky/color....)
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
One thing that you might try to be rid stubborn covering whoas is:
1.Take a syringe and fill with H2o.
2.Pierce the covering where it is wrinkled.
3. Inject the water
4. Use a heating iron to boil the water and raise up the covering...
This also works wonders for getting out dents in the balsa on you covered aircrafts..
I would like to pick up this aircraft...
I thought about the Ultimate 1.60 but this is wayyyyy better....
Let me know how it goes...
Justin
1.Take a syringe and fill with H2o.
2.Pierce the covering where it is wrinkled.
3. Inject the water
4. Use a heating iron to boil the water and raise up the covering...
This also works wonders for getting out dents in the balsa on you covered aircrafts..
I would like to pick up this aircraft...
I thought about the Ultimate 1.60 but this is wayyyyy better....
Let me know how it goes...
Justin
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
I have mine nearly complete minus the motor. The tail feathers went on fine. The pull-pull also went great. I have to say, I really like that they included metal servo arms for the rudder servo with little adapters to fit all types of servos. That was unexpected and very cool. One suggestion that I have for anyone building this is rather than just drilling out the horns and putting the 4-40 bolts through for the ball-links, I use a 4-40 tap set and thread mine. This helps keep it snug and also makes it a lot easier keeping the pull-pull wires tight when you're installing that. Definitely do use the nuts as well, but threading the horns is a good idea in my opinion.
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
I've been really debating motors for this. Sure it can run on a DA-50, but I already have two other planes with DA-50's and with the weight, I think this one could use a little extra "umph". A DLE 55 could be a contender, but for something completely different, I'm thinking of either one of the YD-A 56's or perhaps the new OS GT55. Of the two, the YD-A looks like a better value to me since they include an optic kill and muffler in the price. There's a video on Tower's website of this plane on an OS. Looks good, but I'm not sure I like the front-facing carb, regardless of their claims that it's better.
Any thoughts? Suggestions?
Any thoughts? Suggestions?
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RE: Great Planes 25% Pitts M-12s 3D
I recommend the DLE-55. It comes complete with stand-offs and muffler, BTW. In more than 200 flights it has proven itself to be a reliable and powerful engine. Oh, and it costs a lot less than the DA or OS.
Bliksem
Bliksem