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  1. #26
    Eganwp's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build


    ORIGINAL: T3beatz

    So Eaganwp are you running your 2 A123s directly into the switch and then to the RX?
    Yes, 2x a123 2300's using separate connections to the dual Fromeco Wolverine failsafe switch to dual output to RX. This gives full redundancy with single failure point only occuring if the RX were to die. There's no need to regulate these bad boys on RX/servos as they're 7.2V fully charged, but as soon as they see load they drop to 6.6V. I confirmed all my packs and they do this.

    I do however drop the voltage to the ignition @ 5.2V via the Zeus (it's selectable). I went out and bought the proper diodes to drop it, but then decided to swap out my failsafe, IGN switch, opti-kill, diodes, IGN battery, etc. with the 42% Zeus instead which takes care of all of this; saving weight and making it a much cleaner/simpler setup. I'm using the updated Zeus btw.

    35% H9 Extra 300 - DLE-111 | 33% Lanier Yak 54 - DL-100 | 30% Peak Edge 540T - DLE-55 | SkyWalker Long Range FPV

  2. #27
    Eganwp's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    ORIGINAL: Crash-n-Burn

    Hi Eganwp thanks for the info. As far as the landing gear trouble you had mine went in perfectly. My wing Anti-Rotation pins lined up w/o problem as well. I am not going to add any reinforcing wood to this plane. I will go over the firewall with some CA glue. I am trying to keep it as light as possible. As far as the motor distance from the firewall I am using a DA -50 w/ 2.5 inch stand offs, what standoffs are you using ? 17 MM is a bit of a gap that would piss me off and I would likely have to do something about it.

    I am 99% sure this is gonna be my set up.

    DA-50 stock muffler - Would like a can but I dont feel like buying one.
    Two 1400 mili amp A123's
    Jr R 1222 power safe reciever ( overkill I know, testing it for my 40% carden)
    42% Zeus IBE
    Fromeco Wolveriene switch
    Hitec 5955's on all controls sfc
    Hitec MG servo os throttle
    SWB 1.5 inch servo arms
    Hitec Extensions
    Fiji water Bottle Fuel tank

    Hoping fot 15 - 15.5 pounds ready to fly minus fuel. With that exhaust my Da should at least pull 28 LBS so that would be nutz.
    Hey Crash,

    Ya your setup looks fine. I will be impressed if you hit 15lbs as I don't think I'll be able to with my setup and I'm using a much lighter engine, RX, servos, arms (1.25" is plenty on this bird and puts much less stress on servos which makes them last longer, less slop, plus you get an additional 17% torque with shorter arms), etc. I'll have to wait until I'm fully finished though to see my AUW. I'm pretty sure with a CF gear and spinner you could easily hit low 15's though.

    Also worth noting which I'm sure you're well aware, but 1400mah a123 are actually not real a123 Racing cells. They're another version of LiFe packs, so just be aware and do thorough testing on them before use. If I'm wrong in this someone please correct me, but I'm almost 100% sure a123 Racing only makes 1100 and 2300mah cells; everything else is a rip-off version of LiFe battery technology which isn't necessarily bad but worth knowing.

    My 2x 1100mah a123 packs (I built 8 packs total) all held 1050mah but would only let me fly 4-5 flights without recharging/swapping @ ~250mah per flight w/ IGN while still allowing full redundancy. I decided to go to dual 2300's after building all the packs; mostly for my own sanity and never worrying about bringing my charger to the field. For hard 3D I plan on swapping in 2x 1100mah's. Worth considering anyway. I did a whack of research trying to decide on my setup. In the end I decided why stress over a couple ounces on this huge wing area as it's the only link I have to my plane and isn't worth losing sleep over at night, especially if trying to get a lot of flights and practice in for IMAC.

    My stand-offs are the stock DLE-55 stand-offs which I'm pretty sure are the same length as your DA-50 stand-offs. Most of the guys at our club are getting between 29 & 31lbs thrust from the DLE-55 on a XOAR 23x8 PJM prop, so this is my setup as well (22x8 for break-in).


    I COG'd it last night again before I cut holes for the wolverine, fuel dot, and ZEUS IGN light and found that I'm actually just slightly tail heavy. Not a bad thing as this just means I'll be mounting my a123 packs right on the COG point allowing for painless a123 1100mah swap-outs for 3D, rather than at the back on the RX tray where I originally planned. When I finish it all I'll post up my AUW for you and see.


    All my components for reference:
    2x a123 2300 RX/IGN cells (will swap in 2x 1100 cells for hard 3D if desired)
    1x 42% Zeus
    1x Spektrum AR7000 (using dual power input from Deans on Wolverine)
    1x Fromeco Wolverine dual failsafe switch w/ charge jacks (I've wired it all to charge the packs in the plane w/ balance tabs as well), dual input single output 18awg Deans.
    2x Balance taps
    1x DLE-55 w/ stock exhaust & stand-offs
    1x DLE Ignition
    1x Xoar 23x8 PJM
    1x 4" aluminum spinner (may go carbon fiber here, but it seems I need the preliminary nose weight)
    5x Power HD9150 MG servos
    1x Power HD90 MG high speed throttle servo
    4x 1.25" MPI aluminum arms
    1x 3" MPI rudder arm
    1x Stock tank, 3 line setup w/ tygon and BUNA line inside tank
    1x Fuel DOT
    All custom length extensions, all 22AWG except for 18AWG on battery/switch.
    Using most of the stock hardware ball-linkages except I swapped 2 lengths for titanium ones on ailerons for easier throw adjustment (opposing thread directions on the titanium linkage)


    Anyway, good luck with the setup! If I ever finish this I'll post up some pics of my plane here shortly lol. Thanks for the PSP stand-off links. I actually found those shortly after I decided I wasn't going to use different length stand-offs as it would require me to really drill out a large portion of the firewall. Plus it seems I can use the nose weight anyhow with the engine further forward. I also used thinned epoxy on my firewall and motor box as well as I always redo the factory job on my planes for added strength and sealing.

    Too bad you didn't live closer or we could maiden these together! haha

    Eganwp
    35% H9 Extra 300 - DLE-111 | 33% Lanier Yak 54 - DL-100 | 30% Peak Edge 540T - DLE-55 | SkyWalker Long Range FPV

  3. #28
    Crash-n-Burn's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    I am going to change my batteries to 2 2600 mha li-ions. As far as the motor weight, a DA weighs less than one ounce more than a DLE 55. Thats not to much.

  4. #29
    Crash-n-Burn's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    Hey I don't know if you have this or not but its the cut out template for the wolverine switch
    Attached Files Attached Files

  5. #30
    Eganwp's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    Cool, thanks Crash. I have it around here somewhere but I'll just use the link.

    I just checked the specs:
    DA 50 AUW = 3.13 lbs (50.1oz)
    DLE-55 AUW = 2.88 lbs (46.2oz)

    Looks like it's close but still about 4oz. Really isn't much in the grand scheme of things though. Both engines are gonna rip this light airframe around nicely.

    Good choice on the Li-Ion. I didn't go with them as my charger doesn't support em, and they're really hard to find around here. I managed to build my A123 packs for less than 1/4 the price that you buy them at most sites, so that's the route I took.
    35% H9 Extra 300 - DLE-111 | 33% Lanier Yak 54 - DL-100 | 30% Peak Edge 540T - DLE-55 | SkyWalker Long Range FPV

  6. #31
    Crash-n-Burn's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    the DA 50 is 2.94 pounds, the 3.13 pounds is with standoffs

  7. #32
    T3beatz's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    Yeah, I don't think there is much of a weight difference between the DLE 55 and the DA-50. Just a little more power with the DLE
    Build em Fly em Crash em!!!
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  8. #33
    Crash-n-Burn's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    Well I hinged up the Rudder / ailerons today and finished clear coating the wheel pants. My major complaint is that a number of hinge holes in both the TE and LE especially on the elevators were not placed in the exact middle of the hinge line. The consequence is that part of the control surface will be out of the line with the TE of whatever its mounted to. For example the LE of the elevator out of line with the TE of the horizontal stab. This is annoying for 2 reasons; first it will affect how much control throw you can get and second it places the control surface @ risk for flutter. I caught it on the horizontal stabs. To fix it I had to remove a hinge I already epoxied in, drill out the hole and shim a new hinge into place to bring the surface back into line. Not hard just annoying. This would be a very easy fix for peak models on subsequent production runs. For those that dont know how to remove a glued in robart hinge here ya go:

    1. Dremmel off the hinge @ the knuckle

    2. Heat up a pointed tip soldering iron

    3. Jam it in the hole and burn out the hinge. As the plastic heats up it will expand and most of it will ooze out the hole

    4. Get a slightly undersized drill bit and ream the hole out until the replacement hinge fits correctly.

    5. If you need to reposition the hinge on the bevel ( as I did ) Over drill it slightly until you can place it where you want.

    6. take some thin balsa and shim the hinge for a snug fit in the new position

    7. Wick some thin or medium CA down the hole to secure the balsa shims

    8. Test fit the hinge again if its good glue it in place.


    Another gripe:

    Some of the bevels were not well done. You can see a bow in the LE of one of the elevator halves and on the rudder one side of the TE of the vertical stab is sanded more than the other causing the rudder to fall inside the bevel on the right at fill travel. Again this is not a big deal but it's unnecessary slop in the manufacturing process IMO, then again its not a thousand dollar ARF.


    Control throws :

    Good -
    Rudder is about 55 degrees full throw
    Elevator - 50 degrees
    Ailerons 40 degrees


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  9. #34
    Crash-n-Burn's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    more pics
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  10. #35
    T3beatz's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    So you only had to drill out one of the robart henges?
    Build em Fly em Crash em!!!
    www.Redwingrc.com

  11. #36
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    No 2 of them, and I am considering cutting off the rudder and re-doing the hinge line myself.

  12. #37
    T3beatz's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    Whats wrong with it? looks fine from the pics. Just a slight shift... was that from the henge line are the surface itself?

    honestly I think removing and redoing will be more work than worth it.
    Build em Fly em Crash em!!!
    www.Redwingrc.com

  13. #38
    Crash-n-Burn's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    The last hinge is not in the center causing the bottom of the rudder to over travel on one side and under travel on the other side. This shows up as an uneven bevel when the rudder is fully deflected.
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  14. #39
    T3beatz's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    EPA on your radio will fix it! I truly don't think it will effect the way it flys are will be noticeable at all.
    Build em Fly em Crash em!!!
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  15. #40
    Crash-n-Burn's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    I agree it prob wont affect flight characteristics. The Le of the rudder surface is in line with the vert stab TE it just annoys me.

  16. #41
    T3beatz's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    Just shrug it off and move on to the servo installs! You'll forget all about it, and no one at the field will ever notice it. and you will have saved yourself an hour or two of build time.
    Build em Fly em Crash em!!!
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  17. #42
    Crash-n-Burn's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    I know your right, I looked real close @ it a minute ago and the rudder is in the center of the hinge line. Thr problem is that the TE of the Vertical stab is over sanded on 1 side or under sanded on the other causing the appearance of a screwed up hinge line. Its no big deal.

  18. #43
    JoeAirPort's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    C-n-B you are spoiled by building your own Carden. Now that you know the right way to do it, you can't live with the sub par ARF quality. I agree with T3b, bang that thing together and go punish it in the air. My PAU Edge was similar story. It had a rudder with hinge holes drilled not in-line. Once it was glued on I could tell rudder was crooked. I hated it too....but I just put it together and flew it for three years then sold it (new owner loves it). The only thing that could happen is that some of the hinges get over stressed from misalignment and loosen up over time. I'm totally with you though.....I hate when my planes aren't perfect. Bugs the crap out of me.
    Joe AP

  19. #44
    T3beatz's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build


    ORIGINAL: JoeAirPort

    C-n-B you are spoiled by building your own Carden. Now that you know the right way to do it, you can't live with the sub par ARF quality. I agree with T3b, bang that thing together and go punish it in the air. My PAU Edge was similar story. It had a rudder with hinge holes drilled not in-line. Once it was glued on I could tell rudder was crooked. I hated it too....but I just put it together and flew it for three years then sold it (new owner loves it). The only thing that could happen is that some of the hinges get over stressed from misalignment and loosen up over time. I'm totally with you though.....I hate when my planes aren't perfect. Bugs the crap out of me.
    Your right on! Dans always been like that since I've met him. His Extreme flight extra was Tip Top... He about went crazy the week that he had a gas leak inside of it. LOL. If I have a plane and I punch a hole in the covering I'll most likely patch it up, Dan's the type that will strip and recover the whole section. I like my planes to look good, He likes his planes to look great!

    If I was to have anyone build or fix my plane it would be him, Just based on the fact how Anal he is with his stuff you know your plane is in good hands.
    Build em Fly em Crash em!!!
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  20. #45
    JoeAirPort's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    After hearing all that I want to buy his Carden when he sells it.
    Joe AP

  21. #46
    Eganwp's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    That's interesting. My Edge didn't have any misaligned holes. I was actually pretty impressed that they got them aligned almost perfectly! Probably just a different person on the drill that day that's all.

    I agree on the bevels. With full deflection on the ailerons and I can the bevel isn't exactly perfect, but I don't really care as I'm getting 44* of throw on my ailerons. 48* on elev and 55* on rudder. My rudder is sanded correctly as well it seems and looks perfectly straight so I dunno. Just typical ARF slight deviances I guess.
    35% H9 Extra 300 - DLE-111 | 33% Lanier Yak 54 - DL-100 | 30% Peak Edge 540T - DLE-55 | SkyWalker Long Range FPV

  22. #47
    Eganwp's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    Well I got the Zeus all mounted last night and tested the spark/ignition system to make sure it was working on the 55. Pulled the plug and carefully held the rubber portion of the boot on the head. Don't ask me how I know to only hold the rubber portion, lol. Too many dirt bike/snowmobile incidents to NOT remember! Spark looks nice and strong when IGN is engaged on my radio via Zeus opti-kill. I can't believe how bright the LED light is for the Zeus that I mounted through the fuse. It tells you when the IGN is active for safety. Also installed the fuel dot as well.

    One thing I realized last night is I actually LOVED drilling the holes in the fuse for these. On my other planes when I went to drill the holes the covering would start tearing and making a mess and the wood would make an unclean hole. I'd always have to go over the covering around the hole with a razor blade. With this plane it drilled perfectly and the ultracote didn't tear at all. Looks perfect and almost like I used a heat cutter to do it. It seems like its the little things in this hobby that impress you once you've been in it for awhile... That or I just have cabin fever! haha
    35% H9 Extra 300 - DLE-111 | 33% Lanier Yak 54 - DL-100 | 30% Peak Edge 540T - DLE-55 | SkyWalker Long Range FPV

  23. #48
    T3beatz's Avatar
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    Seems a number of people are switching to the Zeus now... I'm still debating, but eventually I'll pull the trigger on one.
    Build em Fly em Crash em!!!
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  24. #49
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    The Zeus is cool, it eliminates a battery, its RF filtered, and its an kill switch as well. I am looking forward to using mine but I will be keeping an evil eye on it during the first few flights.

  25. #50
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    RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

    I had to take the wife to the airport today so I didn't get to much done. I Mounted the rudder pull pull arm. This is not the stock arm its a Dubro with a longer 8/32 threaded rod. I will have to cut the rod down after I get the pull pull set up. I am also using Du-Bro hardware for the other control linkages. Compared to the stock hardware the full Dubro set only adds 0.4 ounce total weight to the build. Personally I like the look of the Dubro better so thats why I am using it. The stock gear is fine. I also got my Zeus IBE today, its a cool unit. The total weight of the unit is 2 ounces, not bad considering it replaces a 3.6 ounce battery, a switch and a reg as well as a remote kill switch if you use them.
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