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Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

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Old 04-29-2010, 09:18 AM
  #126
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

during the rolling harrier the plane got kinda over our head and behind us it seems, its easy to loose site and coordination that way.
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Old 04-29-2010, 11:09 AM
  #127
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

Nice job guys! Haha, I haven't got that ballzy with mine yet! I know I can hover and do most 3D moves, but the pucker factor on these big birds being my first is the kicker for me.

Excellent job guys. Yea the power on the light bird really makes it agile and easy to recover. Not to mention because it's an edge you don't get the horrid wing stalling wing rock or snaps like the extra's/yak's!
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:43 PM
  #128
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build


Quote:
ORIGINAL: T3beatz

during the rolling harrier the plane got kinda over our head and behind us it seems, its easy to loose site and coordination that way.

TJ that was pure skill, I had to put on a bit of drama for the crowd.
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Old 04-30-2010, 12:30 PM
  #129
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

Guys.. I need help with the fuel tank in my Edge 540 50cc.

I am using the stock tank as we do not get the Fiji Water in India !! For clunks I am using the Dubro sintered filter clunks and tubing is Dubro neoprene medium (black). I use the 3 tube arrangement - 2 clunks and 1 vent.

the problem is that when I invert the tank i.e. the stopper facing down - the clunk still remains upright. It does not fold/ bend the tubing and face down. In glow tanks so far, I have used very thin walled tubing and it folds in all situations. For gas tubing I have the Dubro tygon, Neoprene and another Tygoprene from Amazon. The Neoprene is the softest and thinnest of these and hence I used it.

In your set up I find the Figi bottle to be narrower than the stock tank - does your clunk bend the tubing and face down when the stopper is down ?

What tubing do you suggest for Gas tanks? Should the tubing bend with the clunk ? Should I try heavier clunks ?

Thanx n Regards

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Old 04-30-2010, 12:34 PM
  #130
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

Yep, you'll either need more flexible tubing, or heavier clunk. Personally I went with a heavy clunk anyway, as I want it to stay at the bottom with all the vibration from gas.

I'll post the black inner tubing i use when i find the website.
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Old 04-30-2010, 01:12 PM
  #131
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build


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ORIGINAL: Eganwp

Yep, you'll either need more flexible tubing, or heavier clunk. Personally I went with a heavy clunk anyway, as I want it to stay at the bottom with all the vibration from gas.

I'll post the black inner tubing i use when i find the website.
Egan....thanx.

With the tank horizontal the clunk touches the bottom - no problem there. But when the tank is inverted the clunk remains upright - does not make a "U" bend in the tubing and follow the fuel. With 1/2 a tank of fuel, on the ground, If I were to nose down the model - the clunk will be in air. In my glow setup, with the thin tubing, the clunk follows the fuel in any position.

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Old 04-30-2010, 01:59 PM
  #132
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

Ya, then you'll need heavier clunk or thinner, more flexible tubing. You ALWAYS want the clunk in the fuel. If you're having issues, I would just swap it out to tygon tubing. It works fine, but just be reminded that you should swap out the tubing every year as it gets hardened, especially in the tank.
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Old 04-30-2010, 02:56 PM
  #133
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

actually the U bend can be dangerus... if it bends and gets stuck up there you can have a problem on a long up line as you pull more fuel going up then you do going down. In a down line you normally throttle back so the engine is at Idle (sipping fuel) when your in a up line you throttle up and the engine starts to grab more fuel, if the line gets stuck in the bend near the front of the tank you might be in for a dead stick. The clunk will not always be in the fuel when flying a down line maneuver.


This is a picture of Dans tank setup you can see that the fuel line will not U bend and will always stay to the back of the tank, where it is most used. as long as the clunk can tuch the top, bottom and sides of the tank you should be fine.

Now if you are skeptical of this, use a header tank (just like in nitro RC helis) it will always be full as long as there is fuel left in the main tank.
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Old 04-30-2010, 03:10 PM
  #134
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

There's also a risk of tangled clunk lines as well. That's why I run a 90* bent fill/unfill line rather than a 2nd clunk. It's easier, wont tangle or come off, and also empties the tank completely dry compared to a clunk that only takes out most of the fuel.
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Old 04-30-2010, 09:05 PM
  #135
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

Put some gas in the tank and let it sit overnight This will soften the tygon up and by morning the clunk will be flopping all over the tank. New tygon is stiff.
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Old 04-30-2010, 11:33 PM
  #136
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

Thank you Egan, T3 and Crash.....you guys have addressed all my fears....I will now fill gas and break my engine. I guess that should soften up the tubing and I can then take a call before the maiden.

T3 in Dan's set up of tubing - brass - tubing - clunk, what is the advantage? tangling ? because the shorted the tube harder to bend ?

Egan I will switch to the "90* bend for fill" set up after the break. It is growing on me !!

Thanx guys.....keep you posted..

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Old 05-01-2010, 12:27 AM
  #137
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

The brass part keeps the clunk from getting stuck forward during maneuvers which can cause your motor to quit. I recommend putting a brass piece in there. Also you can break your motor in on the ground, thats fine but remember stuff changes in flight. For the first few flights stay high in case you get a dead stick. The best way to check for a lean or overheating motor is to do a very long up line at full throttle. If the RPM fade off or the motor quits you need to richen up the high speed needle. Be careful on the first few flight w/ a new motor, it can quit !!!!!
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Old 05-01-2010, 06:50 AM
  #138
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

See what I found about the clunk n fuel in flight......

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...5231501487529#

Cheers....

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Old 05-01-2010, 07:32 AM
  #139
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

PET bottle fuel cap fittings from Germany....

http://translate.google.com/translat...n&hl=&ie=UTF-8
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Old 05-01-2010, 08:35 AM
  #140
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

Yeah I have seen that video but I guarantee you that your clunk can get stuck forward.
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Old 05-01-2010, 01:51 PM
  #141
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

That video was to show that the clunk can be out of the fuel and the engine still runs...I guess there is enough fuel in the carb line to keep the engine running...just that the clunk must find fuel before it ends....

Well I have found 2 500 ml coke bottles to experiment with - until I get someone to get me the Fiji ones from US !!

Will run the engine tomorrow and post some pics...

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Old 05-02-2010, 01:38 AM
  #142
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

More Video of todays Hucking!!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaDUmZ4lZQs[/youtube]
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Old 05-06-2010, 10:56 PM
  #143
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

Ugh I doinked her in and busted a LG mount. It will be an easy repair but to do it correctly I had to remove the motor box floor.
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Old 05-07-2010, 01:15 AM
  #144
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

get her done by next week! for some more Huckin!!
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Old 05-10-2010, 02:43 PM
  #145
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build


Quote:
ORIGINAL: Crash-n-Burn

Last one
Crash what are you showing in the photo of your post no. 56 ? is it the reinforcement of the canopy spars ?

I am just about to do the canopy and was going over your pics...

Sandy Jain
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Old 05-10-2010, 02:45 PM
  #146
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

Since I screwed the canopy on I put some hard ply backers there for the screws to bite into b/c that area is only soft balsa.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:40 PM
  #147
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

Egan/ T3/ C&B...how do you install the MPI type of horn onto the elevator servo ? It is already rather tedious to install the bolt on arms. How do you tighten the bolt of the arm onto the servo gear ?
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:45 PM
  #148
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

I get a long allen key and a pair of fine tip needle nose pliers. I rotate the arm so the head of the bolt is facing up ( towards the slot the arm exits the stab from) I stick the allen wrench into it, then I grab the bolt with a pair of pliers to hold it steady, finally I torque the screw down. To do this you need to press the servo arm onto the output spline with the retainer bolt / nut already in place w/ loctite on it but loose.

Also this is all done w/o the stabs mounted onto the fuse your pliers goes through the large hole you used to put the servo into the stab half, grab the bolt that way.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:54 PM
  #149
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

Here you go, Rotate it in the direction of the red arrow, The allen key goes through the slot the servo arm exits ( yellow arrow ) grip the bolt w/ your pliers through the big open area the servo sits in, blue arrow.
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Old 05-11-2010, 01:47 PM
  #150
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Default RE: Peak Model 50 CC Edge 540 T build

Yep, I did the same as Crash (nice pics btw), however I did it with the stabs on and radio connected. I simply deflected the elevator with the sticks on the radio and used an allen key in the other hand to tighten/loosen bolt on the arm. Works like a charm. You'll likely have to take it on/off a few times while setting up your elevator throws. Becaue my radio can't do 2 elevator halves I had to do it all mechanically. Took me an hour or so, but got them matched 100% mechanically which is even better anyway. For the final tightening of the bolt that goes perpendicular through the arm into the servo head you'll have to tighten that one with the stab off obviously.

Be sure to lock-tite the arm bolts before their final tightening!!!
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