BUGGS50

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Hi Mike,

How's things going? Just thought I'd give you an update on my C47. Sanded the DELTA scheme off and now going to go with a WW2 olive drab scheme, I cut the side cargo doors out and will have them so they open. I'm going to have paratroopers, I had to beef up the fuse since I cut a huge hole in the side. right now I'm riveting, using tite bond glue and 1 dot at a time. This is my first time riveting and panel lines not sure how this is going to turn out. Before I paint I will be running the control lines. One thing I noticed on the pictures you posted was you did pocket hinges on the rudder. I need to learn how to do that. Your plane really looks great, I hope mine turns out that good.

Bill

AncientCityFlyer

Bill, good to hear from you. I was wondering how things were going. I'm still stuck neutral. I've come out of retirement for a job offer I couldn't refuse, but it keeps me busy 8-10 hrs/day, sometimes 6-1/2 days a week, yuck! So not much time to do much of anything including working on the AC-47. You noted about the rudder. It's not actually pocketed. I used robart pin hinges and just painted it to look like the real thing. I did howver recess them into the fin and rudder deeply. Let me know how it goes. Mike

BUGGS50

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Mike,

Thanks for replying. I took another look at the picture and it sure fooled me. But another thing I just noticed, Your rudder is angled at the bottom like the real one. Mine is straight, How did you pull that one off?

Bill

AncientCityFlyer

Bill, I didn't do a thing to the rudder. That's the way it came out of the box. Mike

BUGGS50

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Hi Mike,

This is a picture of my rudder. I like yours better.

Bill

BUGGS50

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Picture didn't show up, I'll try again

Having trouble . I'll try later

Bill

BUGGS50

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hi Mike,

How's things going, Still working on my C47, I have a question if you don't mind. How did you hook up your rudder tail wheel?

Thanks

Bill

AncientCityFlyer

Bill, have you permanantly installed your rudder yet? Let me know. There are seceral options to hooking up your steering.

Also, in an earlier post you mentioned something about using paratroopers. Some thing to consider, this model will finish out fairly tail heavy. I've heard of using up 2-3 lbs of weight to get it balanced. I'm not at that point yet, so I can't confirm this, just a consideration. The added weight of anything in back of the plane will require additional weight forward. Mike

BUGGS50

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Mike,
No, rudder is not permanant yet. And yes I been reading the same about weight up front to get it to balance. I'll just have to see about the paratroopers.

Bill

AncientCityFlyer

Bill, this is a long drawn out series of steps on how I did the rudder and tailwheel steering. First off I did not use the junk hardware that came with the kit. I used a piece of music wire (1/8" dia.). I calculated exactly where I wanted mounted, which determined the length (8-1/2" with bend length of 1 to 1-1/4" ). Next was to enlarge the hole where the original wire would exit on the trailing edge of the vert. stab. There is also a small grove on the T.E. of the stab. That needs to be enlarged to accommodate the dia. of the new wire and keep it vertical and parallel with the T.E. Next, look inside the fuse at the glass work at the T.E. of the stab. Pretty nasty stuff. I had to use a small tapered round file to continue the grove on the inside. That took a while. I just take your time. The object is to get the cutting done to allow the wire to be introduced (long portion) from the outside and down into the inside. It needs be be able to be in place and still allow the small aluminum tube for the horizontal stab. to be installed with out interference. It's a very close fit. The wire should pass behind the tube. It's a trial & fit procees. Once it's fitting properly it also needs to pivot freely. The next thing I did was to establish a pivot point in the bottom of the fuse. Look at the access opening. There is a slight recess all the way around the opening to allow the hatch cover to fit flush. At the back of the opening locate dead center in the recess. Drill a 1/16" pilot hole there. Insert a small push rod wire through the hole. It should line up and slide along up to the incoming hole the T.E. Work the glass inside until it does. Now I needed to find something to use as a pivot bearing. What worked for me was a small (3/16" dia.) stainless steel clevis pin that was approx. 1/2" long. (can be purchased at West Marine)It has a head about 3/8" dia. If everything lines up, enlarge the 1/16" hole to 3/16" ( to match the clevis pin dia.). Now temp. install the clevis pin from the inside so it sticks out through the bottom. You want the head/top of the pin to sit level inside of the fuse, so you may have to remove some material so it does. . Mark the length where it exits and cut so it will sit flush in the recess. After cutting, place it in a drill press vise and using a 1/8" drill bit, and drill press, find dead center of the top on the clevis and drill down about 1/8" - 3/16" into the top. This is the pivot bearing. Now take the 1/8" music wire and grind a tapered tip at the long end of the wire. This will sit in the recess you just drilled in the clevis pin. More to follow on the next post. Pics show the music wire and the tiller bar which I'll get to.

AncientCityFlyer

Next: To check, insert the wire from the outside upper hole and down to where the pivot bearing will be. Everything should line up. From the bottom of the wire meas. up 5/8" & 1". At these points cut a flat in the wire 180 degrees opposite from the short bend in the wire. This will allow a proper attachment point for the tiller arms. You will need 1 set of wheel pants mounts (Sig: P/N "SIG SH 726) & 1 Sig H.D. Tiller bar (SIG P/N SIG SH 715). The tiller bar mounts between the 2 wheel pant mounts. The tiller bar needs to be cut to 1-3/4" wide. Sand off the the raised collars on the tiller bar, so it is flat top and bottom. Install the upper wheel pant mount with the set screw facing forward, slide the tiller bar on and install the other wheel pant mount. Tighten the W.P. mounts to the wire, and line up the tiller bar. All 3 should line up. Find 2, 5-56 machine screws. drill all the way through the w.p. mounts and tiller bar, secures in place with 5-56 lock nuts.
At the outer ends of the tiller bar drill a 1/16" hole. This is where the pull-pull wire clevises will be attached. Attach them now and leave in place as it will very difficult ot install them later. Now remove this assembly, leaving the clevise's on. Fabricate a piece of thin aluminum to provide a bearing for the upper portion of the music wire. Mine was ¾� x 1-1/2�. Bend it so it wraps around the wire. Locate it as in one of the pics. Now do a temp fit of everything. Temp install the alum. bearing on the wire, proceed to slide the wire into the upper opening of the fin and down so it drops down onto the pivot bearing. If it lines up without binding side it back up a bit and install the tiller bar assembly properly aligned. Drop the wire into the bearing. Everything should line up. Now slide the alum. horizontal stab. tube through the fuse and check to see if it binds with anything. Adjust as necessary. With the upper bend facing back hold the rudder where you want it installed and mark the location of the end of the bent wire on the L.E. of the rudder. Drill a 1/8� hole for it. Make sure it’s the height you want and in-line with the fin. Next locate where you want the 2 Robart Med. Hinge pins for the rudder. Also locate the aluminum bearing you made so it will be below the 2 hinge pins. Cut a slot in the T.E. of the fin to accommodate the bearing. . I had to remove material from both the rudder and fin to get a close fit between the fin & rudder.

AncientCityFlyer

Next: Next: Once you know everything lines up, reinstall the wire with aluminum bearing attached, back into the fin. Reattach the tiller bar assembly properly aligned. Now mix up some 30 min epoxy (need the time just in case something doesn’t fit) Use a little WD-40 on the wire only where the aluminum bearing wraps around the wire to keep epoxy from sticking to the wire. Coat the aluminum bearing tabs with epoxy. Install the wire into position sitting in the lower pivot bearing and at the same time slide the aluminum bearing into the slot on T.E. of the fin. From inside the fuse take a flat blade screw drive and spread out the tabs on the aluminum bearing. Let the epoxy cure .

Now check to be sure everything moves freely., and the aluminum tube does not interfere with the tiller assembly. Now temp slide the rudder onto the wire. Mark above the aluminum bearing for the 2 hinge pins spaced about 2" apart.These need to be on the vertical portion of the fin and rudder. Drill correct size holes for the hinge pins. Harden these holes and the rudder wire hole with CA. I had to countersink the hinge pin holes to get a close fit. Now again with 30 min epoxy install the rudder to the fin. Note the photos show the aluminum bearing not installed at this point, it should be flipped around for final installation. I'll get back to with the steering installation in a day or so. Need to take some more pics. Mike

mnourse26

hey my name is matt. i was just wondering if you guys had flow your dc-3 yet. looking to pick one up soon. always wanted a dc-3 just wanted to know anythoughts on the plane or flying expreince with the dc-3. thanks guys hope all is well matt.

airega1

My Feedback: (204)

Hey Buggs, I know it's been a while but I'm doing the same thing you did with your DC-3, can you tell me how the paint stuck to the covering on the wings? and how of if you sanded the wings.
Thanks
Frank

BUGGS50

My Feedback: (1)

Hi airega1

I haven't been on RCU for a while and just noticed your question. Your right it's been awhile since did that, but I think it was just a light sanding just to rough it up a little and so far the paint is sticking very well. I have about 15 flights on it and it fly's very well, having trouble dropping paratroopers. working on a new design for that and we'll see how that works this summer.

Bill

airega1

My Feedback: (204)

Hey Ancient flyer, how did your retracts work, I have a set of air retracts that are useless

airega1

My Feedback: (204)

Hey Buggs, I may as well ask you too, how are your retracts working?

AncientCityFlyer

First off let me advise you that I haven't finished my C-47 (AC-47D). I got about 2/3rds thru then work issues prevented me from finishing it. I am about to restart on it. In regards to your pneumatic retract issue. Mine worked fine at first, then I had some air leak issues in the actuation cylinder of one retract. Ended up disassembling it and replacing the "o-rings". Can't remember what size I used but it solved the problem. I also went to a large Robart air tank (28 oz.??). At that time all worked well. That was about 2 years ago. Don't know if they will still work now. I did check into a company that would swap out the air cylinders for electric but at a quoted cost of $350.00 per cylinder I chose not to buy them. I'm hoping to start back on the project soon and will post how the retracts are working. Mike

airega1

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Thanks buddy

airega1

My Feedback: (204)

Hey Buggs, since you've already flown yours can you tell me what you did as far as engine thrust angles? What they recommend doesn't seem right, especially all the downthrust

tevans55

Century Jet can convert your ESM gear for the DC 3 to electric. I don't know the price but I would guess around $250 for both mains with the controller. Give them a call and ask for Bruce.

P Pilot

Hi guys,

At the end of last year I bought an ESM DC3 which had never flown. Its in the Delta colours, with two
Saito 100's.


I've been going through and checking the airframe and retracts and all seems in good shape. I've brought in a twinsync which I am busy installing, just as an added safety measure. I ran in each motor on a Stik that a friend kindly lent to me, so I know the motors run well.


I am also planning on having the wings removable, so will probably glue the plywood spars to the outer wings, and the previous guy already installed blind nuts for wing bolts.


Keen to get the last bits done and get her in the air! Although I'm not going to lie, I'm a little nervous. My research shows that its a good flying aerie though.


Will get some pics to post soon.


Pat

airega1

My Feedback: (204)

can you send pics on the wing bolts holding on the outer wing panels

KBG8798

Just a few comments in response to a few of the posts here.
I got my DC-3 (C-47 version, camouflage) back in 2009 I think, from KMP, but I think it is from the same factory as the ESM version, from what I can tell.
Maiden flight was October 2012 (if you're doing the math... work got in the way, a lot, including 3 moves and an assignment overseas for a year).
I am running my C-47 with two O.S. .46 AXs - flies great! Flew it for the first time at Joe Nall 2013, can't wait to get back this year.
No issues with included retracts operation to date. However, I did have some issues with a retaining ring rattling off at one point, took some research to find an aftermarket replacement but all is well now.
I have kept the outer wings removeable but so far they stay assembled. I am waiting to make sure I stop moving around for work for a while, then I might make it a permanent thing.
This thing is definitely tail heavy! Mine has about two cups (2-3 lbs?) of BBs in the nose in an epoxy mixture. Tried the first time to do that with RTV, that was a disaster (but I think I had outdated RTV).
The factory tail wheel on this thing sucks. After endless research I ended up replacing it with a much stronger and scale looking tailwheel that is spring-loaded for those bumpy landings. I don't recall the make/model but happy to dig it up if anyone is interested.

PJacobs

Just finishing mine up now...KMP Delta version with fiberglass wing. Did you balance with the gear retracted or down? Seems very tail heavy with two OS 95V's.