smithfj

I see where there hasn't been to many posts lately and I'm hoping someone can answer a question on the fuselage build. I recieved my plans last Friday and since then I have been cutting metal patterns for all the ribs. I was a tin knocker for 21 year sin the Air Force and another 20 in a shop one town up from me. So using light gauge aluminum flashing stock is a great way to make patterns for things like ribs.

I guess I got off track. My question concerns FB. The fuselage side view plan has a note that basically says FB runs from F1 to F5,except door area, and is 1/4 inch thick. If I read that right it's telling me the sheeted sides of the interior will be 7/16 thick from the firewall to F5. If so that seems like over kill to me. Would like to know what you did. Other than that, I haven't run in to to many other problems yet. Of course changes are being made to accomadate newer hardware and electronics.

Thanks for your help.
Frank Smith

sebo

Keep everything from the back of the trailing edge of the wing all the way through the tail as light as possible....I wish I would have. Had to add weight to the front end.

kitman09

hi, just got one about 70% done, what engine are you guys running on these planes.

smithfj

If I can keep the weight down I plan on using a DLE 55. It pulls my 1/4 scale PT-19 around nicely and it weighs 32 lbs. Got an email from Wendell Hostetler which answered my FB question I asked in the previous post.
Frank

sebo

Saito 300 Twin dual carb....

kitman09

would a 53cc twin, at 5.5hp be enough for this plane. not looking for a power house as i will be flying scale with mild acrobactics.

Pelle Gris

I fly a 37lb Hostetler Tri-Pacer powered by a G-62. Plenty of power, so your 50cc should power a similar size 150 nicely.
Takeoff is a tad above 50% throttle, and cruise a bit below.

smithfj

I have been working on fuselage for a while and this is where I'm at. Yep, a Texas Tail dragger set-up but being built for tri gear and skis. Put all the hard points in for the water ski set up as I can get to them now. Will run 3/16th rods out of the fuselage for attachment of the ski struts. I used nose gear brackets for the rod to come through and out the sides. We'll see how it works someday.

4570jackjack

My Feedback: (74)

That looks very good. I like the Texas Tail Dragger  set up.

4570jackjack

My Feedback: (74)

I have one on the building table. so far is seems like an easy build.

sebo

I like the holes that you drilled in the box that holds the formers........wish I would have done that.

smithfj

I took a piece of brass tubing 1/2 inch diameter and put a wooden dowel in the upper end to chuck in the drill press. Holes come out clean that way. I also drill two small hole on each side of the tubing about an inch up from the cutting edge to poke out the plugs. Works like a champ for small holes too.
Frank

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

I am getting ready to start a build of these 150s. I have been planning to build this model for at least a dozen years and just this past weekend, I purchased a kit with the glass parts and main gear. It's an old Custom Cutters kit. I will be going electric with mine, so I will be looking for a lot weight savings. From what I have seen over the years, there is lot a places to drop a few grams on this airframe, so should be doable.
I need to finish my 1/4 scale SpaceWalker first, but it's about ready to paint.

smithfj

Right now I'm debating wether I want to use 1/8 balsa for all the sheeting or drop down to 3/32 balsa. I plan to use shear webbing on the fore and aft wiing spars so I'm sure I could use 3/32 there. I would use 1/8 on the fuselage to former 5 and drop down to 3/32 aft of that. One reason being that 3/32 is cheaper than 1/8. Just a thought for now as I still have the wings to frame up.
Frank

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I made the mistake years back of using too thin for sheeting and sanded too much. My finger punched through the sheeting in about 5 different places. Just something to think about.
Edwin

TomCrump

On my Hostetler 195 fuselage, I used 1/8 sheeting, from the firewall to the rear of the cabin area. I then switched to 3/32, as it went around the "corners" easier, when I sheeted the rear fuselage.

On the wings, I stayed with 1/8.

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Well, after lots of study and contemplation, I just don't think this will be a good candidate for electric. At least, not without some major engineering, to shed weight, without losing any strength. So if anyone is interested, let me know and maybe we can put a deal together.

smithfj

Tom,
I like your idea. I strapped taped the front end of the fuselage and it's a tad over 36 inches around it. I do think I'll stick with the 1/8 on the wing and be safe about that. If I can figure a way to stagger my splices aft of the cabin area I'll use 3/32 in the aft section. I do like the 1/8 up front as it help dampen some engine vibrations.
Frank

TomCrump

Frank, I didn't stagger my joints, but I gave extra "purchase" area for the sheeting to glue down to. I then gradually tapeed my 1/8 down to 3/32.

smithfj

Sound like a good plan to me Tom. I may just do that. Starting on the wing today. Need those to align stab and finish up the center fuselage area.
Frank

slevin1

My Feedback: (23)

Could you please post some pics of you cutting out the wood on the fuse for the doors. Thanks.
Saul

smithfj

Saul, Sorry for not posting sooner. I really haven't sheeted my doors yet and I didn't take to many pictures. The one obove just shows the opening and it's really not finished either. I did make the door frames to match the opening and shimmend around it with 1/32 ply spacers to get the clearance for opening and closing. If the doors are built to fit the framing (before sheeting the fuselage) then your 1/8 door sheets should match. That's my thinking any way. I plan on cutting the window openings after the doors are sheeted and gluing in the glazings.
All you fellow model builders and fliers have agreat New Year.
Frank

slevin1

My Feedback: (23)

Thank you.
Saul

TomCrump

That's pretty much how i make my doors ans openings. It's worked for me so far.

These are pics of my 1/4 Cessna 165.

smithfj

Tom's idea is what I'm shooting for. If you look at the picture of the fuselage above you can see the door frame sitting in the opening. I haven't finished the frame though. Got one wing sheeted and rough sanded and haven't fitted the aileron or flap yet. I want to get the other wing panel to this point so I can do my fuselage center section, mount the stab and fin before I start sheeting. Want to run my aft contol linkages before sheeting while it's easier to get on the fuselage for bracing. It's a big bird but I think I'll like it when done. As long as it doesn't weight 32 lbs. like the PT-19 did.
Frank