greevesqub

Where can get one? Powerline Hobbies is out of stock.
Regards,
Dennis B.

MajorTomski

You might call Hobby Lobby they used to carry them. Might still have one in stock.

They fly great on a ys 91

Pa-18cub150

Are the Green Models 120 Tiger Moth and the Pacific Aeromodel’s 120 Tiger Moth the same thing ?

greevesqub

I believe they are.

MajorTomski

From the pix in this review

http://www.pacaeromodel.com/Review/T...120/review.htm

it does look they are the same

AncientCityFlyer

Yes, they are one in the same. It's a shame they are no longer available. I got mine from Pacific Aero Models but they no longer stock them and won't answer e-mails in regard to future availability. Keep looking on RCU buy and sell. They do come up for sale NIB. They fly great. Just my $.02 ACF

Pa-18cub150

Lost my Moth Memorial day.[&o] Looking for a replacement .

deadstickdan

My Feedback: (3)

How about this one?? http://www.maxfordusa.com/105tigermotharf.aspx

Dan

Pa-18cub150

The PA / Green models fits in my van with out disassembly. I have given the Maxford a lot of thought though.

greevesqub

A little larger than I am looking for. I have a choice of two 120 OS motors, one a twin, that I want to use.
Thamks,
Dennis B.

fheppenheimer

My Feedback: (11)

From the pix, the Green Models/Pacific Aero Models Tiger Moth will be available in November from Austars
http://www.austars-model.com/dispdet...08021527422423
I have the yellow-green PAM Tiger Moth flying a pumped OS 120 Surpass, beautiful combo.

Planejaw

My Feedback: (53)

I purchased the Maxford Tiger Moth during their Father's Day weekend sale ($50 off) and as always, zero shipping costs.

The airplane came in two very large boxes. So far, I have the empennage all rigged, with cables controlling the elevator and rudder. Good quality adjustable clevices and fairly decent construction. Tons of room in the front of the fuselage to move batteries and radio equipment, however, the three servos for the rudder, elevator and throttle are all located under the rear cockpit...which will be behind the CG. I anticipate a very tail-heavy ship, hoping a new DA-50 with smoke muffler/Slimline smoke pump and smoke tank will help to even things out a little. Even with all that, still tons of room to add lead or larger gas tanks.

Fist airplane (ARF) that I've ever seen that came with aluminum wheel hubs with two ball-bearings in each. Problem is the foam tires are very hard and almost no shock-absorbtion from the main landing gear. I've installed 6" Du-Bro air-filled tires until I can figure out how to get some sort of shock action, or the ability to take up some shock, in the main landing gear.

Hatches underneath the nose below where you'd install fuel/smoke tank, hatch underneath each of the cockpits with strong magnets holding all the hatches on.

The fiberglass cowl seems very sturdy, even with the strange "Woody-Woodpecker" decal on it. I think it's been cleared over the decal, so don't think it can be removed.

Very unique way of handling elevator braided control cable with one servo, lots of braided wire crossing paths and going into tubing in the aft fuselage, but just keep everything from getting tangled and it seems to work just fine. Using HiTec 5625 servos, MG digitals, have plenty of power. So far, lots of airplane for $649!!

cjtyped

My Feedback: (1)

I had the Nitroplanes version, which again I believe is the same plane. For landing gear, I bought "Cubnuts" landing gear and installed the gear reversed from what it would be on a Cub. Looked good and VERY functional. Magnum 1.2 fs for an engine. Super flyer. Lost it due to battery failure, my fault. I do have a replacement I bought on fleabay.

Pa-18cub150

It looks like TBM is importing a 88 inch Tigermoth from ESM about October or November. It looks like it could be promising.

http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/ESMTIGERMOTH.html

More information coming soon!

Wing Span: 88" (2235mm)
Length: 72" (1830mm)
Wing area: 15.7 sq. ft. (146 sq. dm.)
Wing Loading: 16.4oz/sq.ft. (50g/sq.dm.)
Flying Weight: 18.5 lbs. (7.3kg) *Weight Information
Radio: 6 ch & 6 servos
Gas Engine: 26cc-30cc

Planejaw

My Feedback: (53)

TBM's Moth looks quite good. Wonder what the price will be?

I'm going to replace the very small tail-wheel on the Maxford Moth. Small foam tire, about 1" in diameter. It's never going to hold up to the landing loads that it will see from a 20 lb airplane. By the way, there's no way the specs are correct calling this a 12 pound airplane. Probably closer to 12 kilos than pounds. I have an Ohio Superstars tailwheel, with about a 2" tailwheel that I'll retro-fit. Need to add some 1/4" ply to the bottom rear of the fuselage first.

Now have my Sullivan deluxe smoke-pump, the Slimline smoke-muffler should be in today, new DA-50 by tomorrow.

Including a couple of photos. The airplane is sitting on a bench with a 4'X8' plywood top. Going to be fun to transport too!!

Planejaw

My Feedback: (53)

Surprisingly, with the new DA-50 in the nose, the EI box, cowl, spinner (new squattier one coming soon) and Xoar prop, the Tiggy comes out a little nose heavy. That's pretty rare in most biplanes. So I had to make a decision on where to put the batteries and other equipment to help distribute the load.

As you can see by the second photo, I located the receiver battery, ignition battery (both 3200 Mah LiFe batts) and the smoke-pump to a deck I built under the rear cockpit, which is just above the throttle, elevator and rudder servos. This seems to bring the ship more in balance, though I still need to locate the smoke-pump battery...it'll probably go under the foward cockpit, where the receiver, optical ignition switch and voltage regulator are.

I'll have to get creative in locating the tank for the smoke fluid. With the 24 oz. fuel tank located in the rear of the engine box, it will likely make the ship quite nose-heavy when full. I'm not totally ruling out moving the fuel and smoke fluid tank somewhere further aft, closer to the CG.

Planejaw

My Feedback: (53)

Well, the maiden flight plus four more were fairly successful two weekends ago. Prior to the first flight, everything balanced out quite well, with no need to shift any weight or add anything to the aircraft. With a brand new DA-50 in the nose, capped off with a Xoar 22X8 prop and Tru-Turn 3 ½ inch FAI spinner, along with two 3100 LiFe and one 2200 LiPo (for the smoke pump), all located under the rear cockpit, balance without fuel was perfect.

The first evening (3-flights), assembly took almost an hour (being extra cautious with everything and a very thorough pre-flight inspection). At the end of the third flight, all was well, except two flying-wires became un-attached. One was a wire between the interplane struts, one was a flying wire, both on the right wing. (no landing wires came un-attached. I found that two of my “snap-swivels� (actual fishing type), came loose, with one breaking. The next day, used the heavier ball-swivels that came with the airplane, along with some “S� hooks made of piano-wire I had made. That should cut assembly time down to approx.. 30 minutes. One thing I quickly learned, only “snug� up the flying wires. Don’t try to get any of them tight. Snug is good and prevents any twisting or warping of the wings. The most important thing is that it prevents unnecessary wear and tear on the wires and associated hardware. Make sure things don’t vibrate loose.

The new DA-50 fired up quickly, followed by a slight richening of the low-speed needle. Immediately after the first takeoff, which took all of about 30’, some right aileron and up elevator were all that was needed for hands-off flight. The up-trim was needed due to a full 20 oz tank of gas (with 32:1 Pennzoil Air Cooled Oil). The smoke fuel tank, 16 oz., is located just under the forward cockpit to help the CG a little with a full tank of gasoline. Noted that on application of throttle, the nose tends to drop. Could be a little too much down-thrust in the firewall/engine mount box (it’s built into the firewall). Since everything is delicately lined up (engine prop-shaft and cowl), it may be difficult to shim the engine with up-thrust. May need to experiment with a little “up� mix with throttle application.

Regarding control response, get as much aileron throw as you can, with some expo, around 30%. Lots of rudder throw needed on the ground, but select a lower rate in the air. Elevator areas is large, so drop the rate and add some expo to avoid any pitch sensitivity.

Takeoff requires some right rudder and be ready to kick the rudder in turns to avoid the tail slipping to the inside of the turn. You can even add a little aileron>rudder mix to help swing the tail around if you’re not comfortable with using a lot of rudder in flight.

Unlike most biplanes, the Tiggy doesn’t seem to have tons of drag when you pull the power down on final approach. With the tightly cowled engine, you can pull the power much earlier than many biplanes, and still have a very good glide ratio. She wants to keep flying and you can actually land it quite slow.

Smoke system worked perfectly with only a little mess on the underside of the airplane. Could also be there was normal exhaust residue on the bottom of the airplane due to the new engine and 32:1 oil mixture, but no big problem on cleanup.

I will have a few more flights to get the trim all set up as I like it. A stall/spin series of tests will also be on the horizon in the next few flights.

I made some modifications to the landing gear. In its stock configuration, the hard foam tires and stiff landing gear would transfer all landing loads up to the airframe and eventually cause problems, including airframe damage. I swapped out the hard foam tires for Du-Bro 6� air-filled tires. I also removed the bolt/acorn nut that holds the two cross-support struts on the landing gear and added two small bungee cords, covered by bicycle inner-tube. I’ll try to get some closer photos of this.

The ad and instructions indicate this ship will weigh about 12 pounds when complete. I’m pretty sure they mean 12 kilograms. Haven’t weighed mine, but I’m sure it’s in the 22-25 lb territory.

A 50 cc engine is definitely not too much power for this aircraft. She’s not a fast flier, but very scale-like, and that’s what it’s designed to be.

Planejaw

My Feedback: (53)

After about 10 flights to date, found out that the stock firewall setup provides for a little too much down-thrust. when applying power, the nose really wants to drop. This is noticeable on takeoff, and during flight. I also found that the firewall, which is keyed into the sides of the engine-box, does not appear to be well glued. I've noticed some play. Nothing terrible, but it will add to vibration. I always pull my fuel tanks and replace all fuel line over the winter, so I'll do some reinforcing of these joints while I'm in there.

This is my first aircraft with a smoke system. Boy, does the smoke fluid do a number on covering and ensuring that covering on the underside of the fuselage comes loose. Smoke oil is very thick in the bucket, but after it's burned, it is very thin and really gets under everything. I've already removed some covering from areas just behind the rear landing-gear mount and painted the area with acrylic. Again, another project this winter will be to remove the lower-wing center section, douse all of the plywood and balsa with Denatured alcohol in an attempt to get as much oil off of the wood as possible, then re-cover and paint any "possible" exposed areas or areas that may even remotely see any oil.

Of course, I found much less oil "mess" by using a smaller capacity LiPo battery to power the Sullivan Smokewriter. I'll do a little more work to get the pump to pump a little slower, but with a smaller capacity battery, you don't have the "range" to adjust the output of the smoke pump, as you do with a larger battery.

The DA-50 has proved to be an excellent power choice for this airplane. The rigging has held up well, but I've "strengthened" some of the rigging fixtures to add to the durability. Again, a few things to do over the wintertime here in Michigan...6-months of building and prepping airplanes for the 2012 flying season.

Klemen

Really nice design and good looking plane[8D]

Planejaw

My Feedback: (53)

Ahoj Klemen! (Slovak on my mother's side)

Yes, not a bad airplane. Made a few modifications and you need to strengthen up the motor-mount box, but she flies pretty well. Still trimming her out and will be really getting it dialed in next Spring.

Thought I'd include a photo of the "business-end" under the cowl. I added a second firewall, seperated by spacers, to get the engine a little further out for a better cowl fit. Adds about 1 inch to the actual engine mount and though it doesn't look like it, it is parallell to the actual firewall with right and down thrust. Probably can't see, but I added two 1/16" washers under the lower mounts to reduce some of the "down" thrust.

Klemen

In view of the electronics is not very good that you gave the front of the fire wall
prefer to move it somewhere away from the engine
...btw,I m not from Slovakia but Slovenia-(ex country of Yugoslavia)

Planejaw

My Feedback: (53)

No problem with the electronics (EI box) on the firewall. It's mounted on a bed of foam, so there is plenty of protection. Besides, the ignition lead from the EI box to the sparkplug is not that long, so you can't mount the box that far away.

Klemen

Not good due to hot exhaust, so it says in the instructions for DLE 55

Planejaw

My Feedback: (53)

Klemen, great observation. I can see exactly what you're saying. In fact, in my photo of the engine compartment, it does appear that the EI box is very close to the muffler. There's actually about 3/4" of space between them. If the zip-ties or foam underneath the EI box starts to deform or melt, then it will be a clear sign that the EI box is not in the best place possible. I'll keep a watch on it whenever I remove the cowl for maintenance or other issues.

I like to mount the EI box on the firewall as often as possible, as it keeps the EI box a little further away from the receiver and servos...in fact, that's what most engine manufacturers say, particularly Desert Aircraft. On the side of the engine box, or on the top, is where I'd prefer to mount it. Didn't have the room on this installation, though. It's possible I could re-route some fuel lines and other items to move the EI box to the left side of the motor-mount box. Most EI boxes are either fairly thick plastic or metal. The components inside are normally not in contact with the actual box itself, so heat transfer should be at a minimum.

It's all going to depend on how long your ingnition lead is, room behind or forward of the firewall and engine/airframe manufacturer's instructions.

Most importantly, use common sense and take care when installing your equipment.

Thanks for your reply and reminder. Good stuff to keep in mind.

Klemen

No problem, we are here so that we help each other