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  1. #26

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    Preliminary balance shows close with batteries only, no scrap weight. To damn cold to go out to the garage and set-up balance stand.

    -Snuts-

  2. #27

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    rcguy,

    Flew mine last weekend in the mist. Did not weigh it. Balance was on the wing tube with receiver and batteries on the rudder tray. No added weight. Flew great with no bad tendencies. Land great with no flap and also with full flaps. Will be hoping to get some videos in this weekend. Hope to get formation flight with the chipmunk.
    www.aztechaeromodels.com
    www.spotonrcusa.com

  3. #28

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    Flew mine on Monday 6 flights. Dialed in my flight modes, and landing system. Flew again on Tuesday, (in Alberta!). With the DLE20, vertical was about 120' into a hammerhead. Still running a 15 X 7 3blade. I expect performance to improve as I try some of my 2blade props. This airframe flies nice and light, with good landing caracteristics. I would recommend this as a first flap equiped airplane, and or gasser.

    -Snuts-

  4. #29
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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    Hi, Azhar. I should get the maiden on mine this weekend. I'm really looking forward to wringing this thing out! Video is possible but not likely. I'll get some stills in the air, though. I'll use my GPS logger to record some speeds. Stay tuned...
    Jet Central Superbee & Rabbit
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  5. #30

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    Guys, I for one would like to see some field video where you show what mixing you end up using, flap, elevator, aileron settings/throws and final balance point. I'd also like to see you show any mods you made from the stock setup and a demo of how much vertical a DLE 30 has, how slow and stable it lands, and the prop you are flying with. Plus any macro photos you have of anything in particular you want to show. I'm not familiar with the type of covering used and I'd like to hear comments back on how easy it would be to remove the current covering and recover with 'name brand' covers.
    lucky macy

  6. #31

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    lucky, on the quick first flight, we did not see the need for any mixing as yet. we will be doing more flights today and will have the video up.
    www.aztechaeromodels.com
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  7. #32
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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    Azhar,
    Are you going to have these planes at the NW Model Expo next weekend? I think I like the green one.

    Steve

  8. #33

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    Yes I will be at the expo. Look for us there.

    Flew it again in the strong cross wing. We took some video so I will get it up soon.
    www.aztechaeromodels.com
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  9. #34
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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    I finally put the maiden on my RV-8 today. Flies beautifully! I can't say enough about the ease with which this airplane carves up the sky. I began doing aerobatics almost immediately because the trim was all but spot-on and it felt RIGHT from the very beginning. It flies as though it weighs far less than it actually does. The DLE30 that's in it is still breaking in and was running overly rich, especially on the bottom end. Getting the idle low enough and still reliable was tough, as I didn't want to waste time pulling the cowl to retune. A ValleyView 18-8 prop was used for all three flights today, and will likely remain my prop of choice for this airplane. It was plenty fast at full throttle, But it doesn't NEED full throttle for anything, including unlimited vertical. It flew the full length of our field (over1/4 mile) knife-edge at half throttle. Spins are a no-brainer, and sustained inverted flight seems to require a bit more elevator throw than upright, but the difference is minimal and easily managed. The CG is a touch forward of the center of the wing tube and I don't have any reason to move it. It's just right the way it is. Landing was a very pleasant thing indeed, as it slows down to a walk even with the bit of cross-wind we had today. The flaps help a bit, but not a whole lot and should be thought of as purely optional. Greasing it in on the mains is ridiculously easy. If you want an airplane that makes you look better than you really are, this is it. On one takeoff I whacked the throttle too hard and provoked a wild swing to the left. Stabbing the rudder instantly corrected the swing, but it was a good reminder of the DLE's power. Feeding the power in a little slower had it tracking straight down the runway every time. Better grab one of these things while the price is still so low, because once the word really gets out, it will only go up.
    Jet Central Superbee & Rabbit
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  10. #35

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    www.aztechaeromodels.com
    www.spotonrcusa.com

  11. #36

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    www.aztechaeromodels.com
    www.spotonrcusa.com

  12. #37
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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    I got in 7 or 8 more flights the day after the maiden. What a nice airplane. Upright and inverted flat spins are VERY flat with a slow rate of descent. Recovery is accomplished in less than a turn, with opposite rudder and neutral elevator. There is very little coupling in knife-edge flight. Pitching with flap deployment is nil. No mixing required. Stability in pitch and roll is virtually neutral, and positive in yaw, though a bit more right-thrust seems like a good idea with 30cc power. The airplane reacts noticably to rapid throttle advancements, especially at lower speeds. Though easily controllable if you anticipate it, some more right-thrust would reduce the effect. I was having so much fun flying it that I ran out of fuel TWICE. On our field, landing anywhere but the runway or the over-runs will almost always result in the gear being surgically removed. Great incentive to make the runway ! The only danger in dead-stick landings with this airplane is over-shooting the runway. I got it set up on final and watched it go right on by ! It likes to float in ground-effect and without a windmilling prop to provide braking, it is very reluctant to slow down. The power-on approach speed is MUCH lower than in a dead-stick situation. The second time, I tried using the flaps and all it did was float on by at a slightly reduced speed. It would be interesting to see how this airplane reacts to "crow" mixing. Seems to me the added drag and loss-of-lift might come in handy. I flew the airplane without mercy and had NO problems at the field and found nothing wrong during a thorough post-flight inspection at home. I can't imagine a better candidate for "First gasser". I'd like to see one of these fly with a 20cc engine. The 30cc DLE Is more than you need 99% of the time. That's not to say I'm planning a change, however, I like mine just the way it is. This is a simple, very capable airplane with no bad habits and it LOOKS good, too. What more could you want?
    Jet Central Superbee & Rabbit
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  13. #38

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    ORIGINAL: rcguy59

    It's been a busy week and I haven't had much time for my airplanes. I did get a bit more done this weekend on the RV-8. It's getting close!* The DLE30 is installed along with the ignition, battery and switch. The tires and wheel pants are in place. The wheel pants needed a little Dremel adjustment on the wheel openings, but nothing major. Since I don't care for a too-solid connection between the tailwheel and rudder, I opted for a Sullivan tailwheel assy. Another minor change I made was the addition of a plywood deck between the tank area and the radio tray that allowed me to mount the tank directly above the wing tube. I went with dual elevator servos, omitting the supplied wire elevator joiner. The only thing missing in the photos is the receiver. That arrived a little while ago from Servo City. They had a sale on Futaba 6014HS receivers for $130. Screamin' deal! Thanks again, Azhar, for telling me about that sale. Other than installing the RX and setting up the radio, the only thing left to do is the flap and aileron linkages on one wing. The carbon wing tube fits exactly as it should and required no sanding or trimming. Nice. The cowling comes with a plywood former / stiffener glued into the rear end that butts up to the firewall. When installed, the spinner ring on the cowl centered perfectly around the crankshaft. One quirk of this kit is that the spinner ring on the cowl is 2 7/8'' diameter. A 3'' spinner is too big and a 2 3/4'' is too small. I went with a 2 3/4'' as it looked better than ''too big''. Maybe someone knows of a 2 7/8'' spinner that doesn't cost a small fortune?
    rcguy,
    Got some question's for you. Did you use the plans that were on the CD or were there some supplemental plans? Seems like there's some details missing and obviously the alieron and elevator servo's have been completely changed since the directions were created.

    Did you have have to add any dead weight anywhere to get it to balance out in the end? It looks like there's enough physical space and enough thick wood to mount a rudder servo in the tail like the elevator servos, did you consider it? I'll do that if a DLE 30 comes out any nose heavy - just let me know.

    Where exactly in terms of inches back from the leading edge should it balance. Directions say spar but I want to know if that's the light ply wood assembly which runs from the wing root to the wing tip which is about 3 and 3/4 inches back from the leading edge or did someone mean wing tube which is even a little further aft.

    Also, I've never seen tires like the ones that come with the kit, are you familiar with how well they absorb rough ground and hold up overtime? Did you use them or replace them? They seem completely plasticy and on the stiff side. Also, the 8 small pieces of precut lite-ply, what are those for exactly? I can't find a reference for them in the directions. I was wondering if they are to be inserted into the control surfaces where the control surface hardware is inserted but if so then the directions really should have called that out so it's probably not...I can't find any hardpoint in the control surfaces to drill the attachments through which I would think there should be.
    lucky macy

  14. #39

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    Lucky,

    The manual you have is based on the prototype. I am in the middle of updating the manual and will send you a copy as soon as it is done. In the meantime, feel free to contact me if you have any specific questions, I can email you the build pics as needed.

    Azhar
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  15. #40
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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    Hi, Lucky. As I stated earlier, mine came with no instructions at all, so I can't comment on them. My batteries are up front where the tank should have been, and I mounted the tank over the wing tube to reduce trim changes with fuel-load. Moving the rudder servo to the tail would be OK as long as you only had one elevator servo. With three servos in the tail, count on adding some nose weight. I used the supplied tires and so far they are fine, not showing any wear. No tendancy toward bouncing, either, and I fly off of asphalt. The control surfaces seem to have solid balsa where you drill for the control horns. Mine are still solid. Gentle squeezing will reveal the location of these hard-points. Mine is balanced right on the wing tube and flies fine. Azhar reported similar results with his. Half an inch forward of the center of the wing tube would be a good start. Mine requires very little elevator to flare, so I wouldn't want to get the CG much farther aft than it is now. Hope this helps.
    Jet Central Superbee & Rabbit
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  16. #41

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    Mine is the one with the DLE20 in it. I do have crow mixes c/w idle down. The crow negates any stall from the tip. Very stable and slow, a pusycat. With my flightmodes I have low stick idle set to a soft slow decent, until I'm at the threshold, hit my last flight mode for landing idle. Sets down so soft, where you want it to.
    Rather than relocate my batterys to move the ballance, I will be downsizing to twin 1100mah A123. Plus my 1800mah ignition battery. Should change total weight nearer to 12 lbs. Yes this is a great set-up for a first gasser, and a first flap airframe. I know my performance will increase with a 17X6 2 blade over my now 15 X 7 3 blade. But it sure flies great as-is.

    -Snuts-

  17. #42

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    Snuts et all, is the right thrust enough or do you feel a tad more helps? Thought I read somewhere more was recommended.
    lucky macy

  18. #43
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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    Lucky: I would recommend a degree or two more right-thrust with a 30cc engine. The vertical tail is a bit small and it really shows when you whack the throttle at low airspeeds.
    Jet Central Superbee & Rabbit
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  19. #44

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    Mine is fine with my current thrust. I would beleive an increase with increased thrust. I intended mine to be a sport flyer, and it is indeed, a good one too.
    -Snuts-

  20. #45
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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    Azhar,
    I bought one of the green RV-8 ARF's from you last Sunday. How do you like the JC EVO 30cc engine so far? Are you going to be carrying them in the future? Thinking of going gas on this one and electric on the Yak 55m.
    Thanks,
    Steve

  21. #46

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly


    ORIGINAL: rcguy59

    It's been a busy week and I haven't had much time for my airplanes. I did get a bit more done this weekend on the RV-8. It's getting close!* The DLE30 is installed along with the ignition, battery and switch. The tires and wheel pants are in place. The wheel pants needed a little Dremel adjustment on the wheel openings, but nothing major. Since I don't care for a too-solid connection between the tailwheel and rudder, I opted for a Sullivan tailwheel assy. Another minor change I made was the addition of a plywood deck between the tank area and the radio tray that allowed me to mount the tank directly above the wing tube. I went with dual elevator servos, omitting the supplied wire elevator joiner. The only thing missing in the photos is the receiver. That arrived a little while ago from Servo City. They had a sale on Futaba 6014HS receivers for $130. Screamin' deal! Thanks again, Azhar, for telling me about that sale. Other than installing the RX and setting up the radio, the only thing left to do is the flap and aileron linkages on one wing. The carbon wing tube fits exactly as it should and required no sanding or trimming. Nice. The cowling comes with a plywood former / stiffener glued into the rear end that butts up to the firewall. When installed, the spinner ring on the cowl centered perfectly around the crankshaft. One quirk of this kit is that the spinner ring on the cowl is 2 7/8'' diameter. A 3'' spinner is too big and a 2 3/4'' is too small. I went with a 2 3/4'' as it looked better than ''too big''. Maybe someone knows of a 2 7/8'' spinner that doesn't cost a small fortune?
    rcguy, How much extra did you did you stand off the mount from the firewall to get it to clear. I used 6 of the wooden washers that came in the kit (4 on the left side, 2 on the right to give it some extra right thrust). I'm about to to start cutting up the cowl to get it to fit but rough measuring says it might not be enough. It certainly doesn't look like it'd be enough without any additonal stand off distance. I didn't try to relocate the mount holes a bit to account for the extra right thrust and got to say the extra 2mm or so on the on side makes a really ugly offset mismatch on the front of the cowl. I think I might fly without the extra right thrust at first just for aesthetics. :-)

    finally, where did you end up mounting the throttle servo and how did you hook it up to the carb. What did you do to be able to operate the choke. Never saw a gas engine require as much choke when stone cold as the DLE 30.

    thanks.
    lucky macy

  22. #47
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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    Hi, Lucky. I used the stand-offs that came with the DLE30. No shimming was required. Azhar said this airplane was designed specifically for the DLE30 and mine seems to prove that. I ended up with more gap than I like between the spinner and cowl due to the DLE single-bolt prop adaptor. Without the adaptor, the fit would have been perfect. Here's a photo of my throttle servo location. I used the semi-rigid Sullivan carbon-bearing NyRod which is non-conductive. The linkage is attached to the carb using the DLE-supplied F/G throttle arm and a Du-Bro 2-56 ball link. The choke linkage protrudes from the front of the cowl, right beside the spinner. The choke linkage is visible just above the crankshaft in the photo. I use a metal landing gear strap held on by the bolt that goes through the crankcase and into the stand-off. Just be sure you bush the hole for the linkage with an insulator to prevent metal-to-metal contact that can cause RFI problems. If you increase the right-thrust, you will have to move the holes in the firewall to the left. Turning the holes into slots should do the trick. Though I still believe more right-thrust is needed, now that I know to compensate for it, changing it seems more trouble than it's worth. Mine will stay as-is.
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    Jet Central Superbee & Rabbit
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  23. #48

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    ORIGINAL: rcguy59

    Hi, Lucky. I used the stand-offs that came with the DLE30. No shimming was required. Azhar said this airplane was designed specifically for the DLE30 and mine seems to prove that. I ended up with more gap than I like between the spinner and cowl due to the DLE single-bolt prop adaptor. Without the adaptor, the fit would have been perfect. Here's a photo of my throttle servo location. I used the semi-rigid Sullivan carbon-bearing NyRod which is non-conductive. The linkage is attached to the carb using the DLE-supplied F/G throttle arm and a Du-Bro 2-56 ball link. The choke linkage protrudes from the front of the cowl, right beside the spinner. The choke linkage is visible just above the crankshaft in the photo. I use a metal landing gear strap held on by the bolt that goes through the crankcase and into the stand-off. Just be sure you bush the hole for the linkage with an insulator to prevent metal-to-metal contact that can cause RFI problems. If you increase the right-thrust, you will have to move the holes in the firewall to the left. Turning the holes into slots should do the trick. Though I still believe more right-thrust is needed, now that I know to compensate for it, changing it seems more trouble than it's worth. Mine will stay as-is.
    Thanks for the info. I did the 'draft' cut of my cowl today and here's some pics showing the clearance (complete with fiberglass dust still all over it) and the actual look with the extra right thrust offset and it turns out to look just fine when the spinner is on. I like this amount of clearance so it's going to stay this way too and it helps make a 3 inch prop not look too big for the cowl this way. I modded my dle carb a while back so the arm has been replaced with a longer arm and in the opposite direction so there's no interference with the choke arm so my servo solution will be a little different but I like how you made the servo attacment on the side. I see there's an extra servo box cut out to make one up, that's a nice touch.
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    lucky macy

  24. #49
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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly

    Looks like maybe your cowling is mounted farther aft than mine? Don't forget to open up the bottom of the cowling behind the cylinder to allow cooling air to escape.
    Jet Central Superbee & Rabbit
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  25. #50

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    RE: Aztech / Slipstream RV-8 30cc assembly


    ORIGINAL: rcguy59

    Looks like maybe your cowling is mounted farther aft than mine? Don't forget to open up the bottom of the cowling behind the cylinder to allow cooling air to escape.
    I don't know if it is or isn't. There's about 3/8ths of an inch from the back edge of the cowl to the lite ply cowl stiffener ring inside the cowl. I haven't tried to reverse drill the holes for the cowl screws through the inside of the cowl yet. My 90 degree close quarters drill and bits are out at the airport anyway which isn't close by. I haven't figure out a simple way to do it, especially the top two holes as they are blocked by the engine box. Other than trial and error, did you figure something out?
    lucky macy


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