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  1. #26
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    Did a bit more work while keeping the dogs out of the house so the miss' could clean before the in-laws show up on saturday..

    Soo.. first up was gluing the 1/8" balsa top wing skin down. I use Slow/Thick CA over all the structure, placed it down, then hit it with kicker down the LE, root and tip ribs. Then I put a bag of fiberglass cut-off scraps to hold the sheeting down while the rest of the glue cured. Your probably wondering how a bag of fiberglass scraps would be any help. its a 25 gallon trash bag FULL of 6oz and 18oz glass, it weights close to 10lbs.

    Finished wing panel:


    While the wing panel was drying, i went about permanently attaching the horizontal stab. As is my normal technique, I set the trailing distance from fuselage center-line then tack glue the stab to the fuselage with CA on one side. I then level the fuselage side to side using the (in this case) Top of the fuselage stringers and the Robart incidence meter to get it to "0". Then using the incidence meter I measure out on the stab about 7" from centerline on each side. Then i set the arms on the incidence meter so they touch on these marks. Then the stab is leveled side to side, and the triangular measurement from the center-line @ the firewall made and adjusted. Once adjusted and leveled, the opposite side of the stab is tack glued with CA. Then the fuselage is leveled lengthwise, and the stab adjusted to get the incidence setting (in this case.. Zero degree's). Then the stab is tack glued at the leading edge on both sides of the fuse. I then mixed up some epoxy and milled fibers and put this mixture on the outside of the balsa stab mounts and made a fillet on the top and bottom stabs. I like to use 5 minute as it dries quickly. The inside of the fuse/stab joint will be reinforced with epoxy and tri-stock.



    While that cured, the wing was pulled from the building table and then tip, root, LE and TE all trimmed to shape. Then the root rib was cut open between the forward spars in prep for the basswood wing attachment spar to go in. The forward 3/8"sq basswood spar was then cut, trimmed and sanded to give a nice tight fit into the outer wing panel and a nice smooth fit into the center wing spars.

    The Rear spar was laminated with 1/16" birch ply on both sides as well to build it up to the 3/8" thickness in width.




    The wing carry-through spars were inserted into the fuselage. The rear openings had to be enlarged slightly to get its carry-through to fit.



    Then another mock-up was done... I like it! Tomorrow, i'm going to try and knock out the other wing panel while the wife and son are gone for a few hours

    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  2. #27

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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    This is one of the neatest build threads I have seen...Great job....
    But, there is a problem.......your shop is too neat and clean........LOL

  3. #28
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2


    ORIGINAL: sebo

    This is one of the neatest build threads I have seen...Great job....
    But, there is a problem.......your shop is too neat and clean........LOL
    Haha. Neat and. Clean? Man my shop is a disaster compared to what it normally is. It probably only looks that way because i have 8 different tables to work off of. Lol
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  4. #29
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    While the wife and son were out grocery shopping today, I framed up and sheeted the top side of the left wing panel. The first wing panel took about 6 hours to frame and sheet, this second one took just over an hour. Its amazing how fast the 2nd one goes when you figure out the process. While the sheeting dried on the left wing panel, I started laying out the aileron position on the right wing panel. Apparently when i re-drew the plans I messed up the measurement of where the tip of the aileron should be and ended up having the aileron span about 1" short in span. A simple fix overall, i'm just glad i figured it out now instead of later.
    I now need to make and install the landing and flying wire attachment brackets, aileron hinge support blocks and the aileron servo mounts. To do the servo mount, I need to order the RDS system as well.
    For aileron hinges, i'm going to use some of the aluminum strap hinges from Tarvin Model Products ( http://www.tarvinmodelproducts.com/ ), a piece of nyrod embedded into the aileron LE stock and a piece of music wire.

    Since both wing panels were done and trimmed to shape and the attachment shafts for them to go into the carry-through spars, I thought it appropriate to do another mock-up for the fun of it

    total weight so far without the landing gear is 4lbs so far.







    If your wondering.. the Big white roll on the table is 800 sq.ft of 20oz fiberglass cloth for making my F-14 molds.
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  5. #30
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    Since the last of the family left this morning, i was able to sneak out and do a little bit of work on the R2 today..

    I got both wing panels brought to the same stage of being ready to get sheeted on the bottom. I some-how managed to not order enough 1/8" balsa, so the LHS has put a order in for me, should be here this week. The top sheeting has been tapered at the TE.. and the building tabs removed and sanded to shape. Still have to figure out the flying wire mounting tabs and hinge blocks before i can sheet the bottoms though.

    I decided to use the time to get the wing incidence's set. So leveled the fuse side to side and front to rear, then tack glued it to the building surface. Then measured from acft Centerline to wing tips to make sure the wings were equal on both sides, then the triangular measurement.. then checked the dihedral and got all that and the incidence set.



    I used some 5 minute epoxy and milled glass fibers on the outside joints of the fuselage and center wing box spars to hold it all together with a nice little fillet. Then using some 5/8" Tri-stock, I sandwiched the top and bottom of the box spars, and then put a piece of tri stock on the insides edges as well to lock them all in place and to keep them from moving. These pieces were epoxied in place.




    with all that done, the stub wings and gear mounts can be built. The first step, was to install the tip ribs on each stub wing. Then the inner stub wing rib was installled. I put this rib 3" away from the tip rib to give the gear plate more surface area to glue to, to help spread the landing loads. This was done on both sides. The Gear plate will be either 3/16" or 1/4" 5-ply, it really depends on which size I have handy.


    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  6. #31
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    Local flying buddy came over to do some sanding on his Spitfire we are painting, which allowed me to sneak out in the shop to do some GeeBee building.

    First up, was cutting and installing the 1/4" landing gear mount plates and the inner stub wing ribs. The ply plates were installed with hysol E20HP and reinforced with 5/8" Tri-stock. the inner stub wing ribs were also reinforced with tristock in their joints to the spar boxes.




    While the gear plates were curing, I started attaching the upper fuselage bulkheads and then installed some 1/8"x3/8" balsa stringers. All of the upper stringers were installed up to the upper corners of the fuselage box structure. I've now go to figure out and install the landing wire attachment point in the fuselage and get the brackets for the wings made up. I've also got to install the landing gear, and then take measurements for all the wing wires and get those ordered.


    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  7. #32
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    More prep time in getting everything ready to measure for those wing wires....

    The Landing gear was installed.. There are Twelve!! bolts per landing gear assembly to mount it. I think this may be slightly over-kill, so I will use four 4-40 bolts per gear, and then the rest will be #4 sheet metal screws since the wing wires will support much of the landing gear.





    The fuselage side bulkheads were installed and the lower bulkhead on the nose where the cut stringers are glued to formers F2.





    You can see in this photo how far into the stub wing the fuselage bulkheads reach. The wing fillets will cover much of stub wing structure.

    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  8. #33

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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    After all the beautiful work you are doing, I would go with the 12 bolts...can't be that much xtra weight.

  9. #34
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2


    ORIGINAL: sebo

    After all the beautiful work you are doing, I would go with the 12 bolts...can't be that much xtra weight.

    Its not the weight, its the difference in mountings. The original wings are designed to not use functional wing wires. The scale wing i am using requires the wing wires for security and structural integrity. Since the bottom wing wires are triangulated from the fuselage to lower portion of the landing gear to the wings, and then the landing wires from the wings to the top of the fuse, the wires will provide much of the structural integrity of the landing gear so 12 bolts wont be necessary, ill just have 4 bolts and 8 screws
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  10. #35
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    Well, work has me studying and testing for all kinds of pesticide applicator exams for different states, so finding "fun" time to work out in the shop on the GeeBee or F-14 is getting difficult. When i'm not studying, i just wanna be lazy and sit infront of the TV.. when i'm not at home, i'm traveling... But this weekend i took a few hours to get some work done.

    First up was making the upper fuselage landing wire attachment points. These are made from .065" x 1" brass, and then bolted to a spruce "T" that is made from 2 pieces of 3/8"x1/4" spruce. This is then hysol'd between the F2 and F3 and then some big chunks of tri-stock used to strengthen the joints.





    In order to keep the mounts from pulling apart from inverted flight, I also made a cross beam from .030"x1/2" brass. The bolts holes were drilled slightly short of the actual distance, so when the wing wires are tightened the upper mount beams will be slightly stressed.



    Then after about 2 or 3 hours, I got all the wing wire measurements done, so I can finally send off to get a quote for that.. I then drilled the holes in the wing for the wing wire attachment points and installed the mounting blind nuts:



    Next up was getting the fuse finalized and ready for the rest of the stringers to be installed. I installed and glued the last (F7) fuselage bulkhead into its final position after cutting the lightning hole/elevator pushrod area and the rudder pushrod openings. It was also notched along the top tip of it for the vertical fin LE part. This was offset to the left of Center to mimic the full scale. The rudder and its hinges were also installed and tack glued into position to prep for the vertical fin construction. To hold the rudder at center, the 2 stringers running down the thrust line of the fuselage were installed and these were run past F7 and butt up against the rudder false LE. F6B was also notched so the vertical fin LE part was offset 1/2" to the left of center. The full-scale has a 2" left LE fin offset when viewed to the rear, my model incorporates this unique feature as well.



    And a view of the vertical fin offset looking to the rear of the airplane.



    Then the Top 2 stringers that run just below the cockpit emergency exit were installed on both sides of the fuselage.


    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  11. #36
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    Got a bit more work done today since i've been a bit under the weather since monday afternoon...

    First was adding more stringers along the sides of the fuselage:


    Then I started working on getting the upper f6 bulkhead shaped correctly.. somehow when it was installed, i got it off-center. So i had to re-find the new center of the bulkhead (thank goodness for laser levels) and then redo the center Fin LE offset. I also trimmed the bulkhead to the correct sizing and shape:



    Then I did the temporary install of the elevator joiner wire so I could start work on getting the elevator servo mount installed:


    Then i made up the elevator servo mount. The servo is screwed in from the bottom of the mount rails. The rails were installed with hysol, and some 3/4" Tri-stock between the rail and fuselage side joints for extra support:


    While the hysol was curing, I drilled the holes for the servo wire routings through the stub wings, and then sheeted the top part of the stub wings:


    Many more stringers were also installed as well:


    Then using some 1/8" lite-ply with some 3/8"x1/4" spruce servo mount doublers (this is one of the very few things I use lite-ply for... servo mounts very far aft of the CG), I hysol'd the Rudder servo mount plate to the right rear side of the fuselage, the Elevator and rudder servo linkages are very short.. only 3 inch's or so:



    Then the door opening frames were started:
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  12. #37
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    More work

    In order to stiffen the vertical fin area to help eliminate any (or as much) damage as possible in the possibility of a flip-over, The fin LE was re-inforced with a triangular piece , and then a Diagonal stick was placed between the headrest bulkhead and the F7 bulkhead:



    Then a piece of 1/8" thick balsa sheet was cut to act as the base rib for the vertical fin. A piece of 1/16"x3/8" stick was then held tight against the rudder and extended to the fin LE. The shape was then transferred to the 1/8" balsa to get the fin shape. It was then cut and sanded to shape and then permanently attached:




    Before all of the above was done the F-7 fuselage bulkhead was trimmed to the shape necessary to match the rudder. Its very difficult to explain how this was done, but it was basically using a stick pressed against the rudder and then transferring the shape to F-7, and adjusting as necessary for the correct shape.

    I then hysold then Elevator joiner wire and supports into place, and installed the last 2 side fuselage stringers.

    Then the sheeting of the rear fuselage was started. This is by far the most complex fuselage I have every sheeted in such a small area. But it is getting that unique GeeBee shape even more.




    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  13. #38

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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    Hello Thomas,

    Are you kidding me ??????.....[X(][X(]LOL

    How can ANYBODY go from building an outstanding Butcher Bird to taking on a project like this? You are indeed a talented builder. I cannot wait to see the plane when it is finished. My bet is that it will be AWESOME !!! One question though, I thought you had a Moki radial in your 190 or am I mistaken?

    Good luck with your progress. I will be following this thread while drooling all over my keyboard.........LOL
    Fly Safe and Have Fun ! ! !
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #22

  14. #39
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2


    ORIGINAL: hrrcflyer

    Hello Thomas,

    Are you kidding me ??????.....[X(][X(]LOL

    How can ANYBODY go from building an outstanding Butcher Bird to taking on a project like this? You are indeed a talented builder. I cannot wait to see the plane when it is finished. My bet is that it will be AWESOME !!! One question though, I thought you had a Moki radial in your 190 or am I mistaken?

    Good luck with your progress. I will be following this thread while drooling all over my keyboard.........LOL
    Nope, not kidding... I really need to get all the wood-working on this model done ASAP though, as i've got an F-14 fuselage to finish molding and to get a prototype fuselage layed up by the end of june... Its gonna be a busy summer!

    The 190 had/has a Seidel ST-7-70 radial. The motor is essentially identical to the new Evolution 77cc radials.
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  15. #40

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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    I used to think I was a pretty fair buillder........you put me to shame.....you are great! It's going to be a shame to cover all the beautiful craftmanship you have put into it....

  16. #41
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    Thanks Sebo... i've got 22 years experience of building a WHOLE lot of stuff, its just here recently (the past 5 years) that i've figured out what patience is, and begun to really crank out quality models
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  17. #42
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    Got up earlier than the wife and son this morning, so before off to work, I sheeted the other side of the vertical fin, and strip planked the headrest to fin transition part of the rear fuselage:



    Once i got home from work, I decided to sheet the top of the fuselage. In order to get the 1/8" sheet balsa to conform easier, I sprayed the exterior surface of the sheet with straight Windex window cleaner. This is my preferred method b/c it works very well to soften the balsa and dries out in an hour or 2:

    First the left side:


    Then the Right side:


    Then I installed the tailwheel brackets, hooked up and installed the elevator servo, and installed the rudder servo. Then all the lower fuselage bulkheads were installed and the remainder of the stringers as well.




    Once the upper sheeting had dried out, I went about the process of fixing the lack of a smooth transition from the fuselage sheeting to the fuselage stringers in the fabric covered area's.. This is what the transition looked like before:



    To make the transition, some 3/16" sq. balsa was glued butted up against the fuselage sheeting to the fuselage stringers, as so:



    Then the sq. balsa was sanded down to make the transition from sheeting to stringers nice and smooth:



    The door opening was then outlined with 1/8"x1/2" balsa between the stringers, and then the stringers in the door opening were cut free and the openings sanded flush:



    I was not happy with the decrease in strength in the rear fuselage when the door stringers were cut free. So to fix this a piece of 1/4"x3/8" balsa was installed under the lower door flange. Then the 1/4" sq. diagonal that was originally part of the fuselage side was glued to that stick, then another 1/2"x3/8" stick was installed on edge @ a diagonal and joined the previous two stick. You may not believe it ,but those 3 sticks returned most (if not all) of the strength lost from the removed stringers:



    Then a 1/8" balsa inner door core was cut to fit inside the door opening:




    Then 1/8" balsa was glued to the core and flush with the door opening. Then sanded to shape. The rear bulkhead was canted at a roughly 120* from the door core, so when the door is opened, the rear door bulkhead won't foul on the fuselage side:



    The door will be sheeted with 3/32" balsa on the exterior. The door core will be lightened up considerably and then covered in 1/64" ply and stained per the Replica.
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  18. #43

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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    A quick way to dry wetted balsa is to use a heat gun. The balsa tends to hold it's new shape better also. Excellent build by the way.

  19. #44
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2


    ORIGINAL: jkpape

    A quick way to dry wetted balsa is to use a heat gun. The balsa tends to hold it's new shape better also. Excellent build by the way.

    Thats the plus side of windex.. as soon as you spray it on the balsa, and rub it in a bit, the balsa has already developed a cure. Depending on how dense the balsa is, it can take less than an hour to dry. I believe the first piece of balsa i applied was pretty light and it dried in about 10 minutes
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  20. #45
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    Man i hate doing doors on a curved surface!!

    So the reasoning behind that statement is as follows:

    First up, I took some 3/16"x3/8" spruce and glued some .010" G-10 sheet to each of the wide sides. I then cut 4 pieces 3/4" long, then 2 pieces 2 1/2" long. The 3/4" long pieces were glued to some 1/8" sheet balsa using the 2 1/2" long piece to set the gap between the 2 short ones. Then one end was capped with a piece of 1/8" balsa to form a box that was open on 2 sides. Two of these are made, and these become the door hinge pockets.

    The door perimeter sheeting was cut so the hinge pockets would fit, then after some fiddling and fine-tuning using a Carbon fiber rod (that will be the hinge pin) the hinge line axis was determined the pockets and 2 1/2" long parts (actual door hinge) were drilled for the hinge pin. then using the CF rod, to keep the hinge axis aligned, the pockets were tack glued into place.

    Unfortunately, I didn't get any photo's of any of that stuff..

    Once all of that was done, the door frame tub was notched so the door hinges could be fully closed. Then some 1/8" balsa parts were cut to support the far aft end of the door hinges.



    Then the door was opened to check its operation:



    The door and hinges were then removed, and the hinges sanded in prep for sheeting the door. 3/32" balsa was then placed over the door opening and the outline of the door traced onto the balsa. The door was then put back into position, and then the door sheeting was pinned to the door tub. It was all removed and then thin CA was used to glue the sheeting to the tub.



    And then the door operation was checked. All that is left, is to put a stop in the fuselage for the door, and then some sort of closing mechanism. I've got a few hatch latch's but not sure if i want to use those, or devise some other way, especially since the full-scale didn't have an exterior door handle..




    Then the Rear of the fuselage between the stringers from F7 aft was filled in with balsa, rough sanded, and then any low spots were filled.





    The fuselage is getting closer to being completed.. I've got to laminate some G-10 around 2 hatch's where access to the upper wing wire attachment points are.. build the emergency cockpit exit parts, sheet the bottom of the fuse/stub wing and the forward part of the fuse.. Its about time to figuring out fuel tank mounts and stuff as well...
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  21. #46
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    Ohhh booyyyy lots of work today.....

    First up, i decided to get the rudder ready for glassing, which involves finishing the leading edge. So the rudder was removed from the fuse and the rear fuse and vertical fin sheeting was given a truing sand. Then i took my hand dandy hinge gap seal counter sink sanding tool (say that 5 times fast!) and sanded a depression along the back of the fuselage for a .005" G-10 strip. Then I installed the strip. The reason for the strip, is b/c the the sheeting at the rear of the fuse HAS to be near razor thin in order for the rudder to move throughout its full range of motion.



    Then using a 1/2" drum sander in the dremel and sandpaper stuck to different sizes of high-lighters and pens, the stringers and rear sheeting was tapered and sanded down to the .005" G-10 strip. yea yea, i know... proper tools make the job easier, but man, using high-lighters wrapped in sandpaper just looks cool.. and colorful! (actually i'm just to cheap to buy permagrit files! lol)



    So after doing the above step about 10 different times, the rudder was finally going from stop to stop without any interference...





    Then using some extremely lightweight and soft 3/8" balsa sheet, the rudder false LE shape was traced onto the balsa, and then it cut out. Then using a compass, the outline of the rudder was traced forming a 3/8" wide outline of the rudder. This was glued into place and then shaped into a 1/4 round type shape:




    Then after numerous adjustments to the rudder LE it was finally moving its full range without any binding.




    Then I decided to tackle the last step of the cockpit door... The mechanism to hold it shut.. I've got ALLOT of 3/8"x3/16" rare earth magnets. Sooo i inset one into the rear door frame, so when the door is shut is is flush with the fuselage bulkhead behind the door.


    Then a piece of thin steel was cut out in a rectangular piece, and then the ends were bend so it looked like a squared off "U" and the vertical parts were about 1/4" long. Then 2 slots were cut in the bulkhead aft of the door so the piece of steel could be pushed into the bulkhead. The magnet is then centered on this piece of steel. Then the vertical parts of the U were bent down/up on the aft side of the bulkhead to hold the steel plate in shape (it was also glued into position).



    Then on the backside of the steel plate, Three of the same size magnets were put inside of a balsa block and glued to the back of the fuselage bulkhead. The single magnet in the door didn't have enough strength to make me comfortable with it keeping the door shut, so the three were added in the fuse for extra security.

    The down-side is, I need a stack of 10 magnet to open the door. lol good thing for extra's!


    Then came the time to start working on the emergency exit and canopy framing parts.

    First was to make the rear exit frame. 3/32" aircraft ply was used and the shape of the F6A bulkhead was traced. Then using a compass it was thinned down to a 3/8" wide piece:



    The above process was repeated for the front bulkhead as well.. the difference being, this one is 3/16" balsa and was not lightened at all. then 1/8"x 3/4" balsa rails were put on the cockpit rails and glued between these 2 bulkheads:



    The opening was then sheeted with 3/32" balsa. Once that was done, the entire assembly was sanded to shape to conform with the rest of the fuselage. Then the canopy opening was cut out:





    Then after an hour or 2 of head-scratching, measuring and finally some cutting of parts, the .030" G-10 forward canopy bow was cut out and test fit. I had my concerns with this part before fitting it to the fuselage as it just didn't look right. But after test fitting it, it actually looks pretty dang close!




    Unfortunately, I can't finish the canopy frame construction until the canopy exit frame work is glassed. And since the rudder is ready for glassing, i figured.. what the hey.. lets do some glassing! so the canopy exit frame and one side of the rudder were glassed...



    Stuff left.... to much, my head hurts from thinking about it!
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  22. #47
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    Not much work done today.. spent the majority of the day studying for my upcoming Nevada and Oregon pesticide applicators exams (these will be states # 15 and 16, only 10 or 12 more i think...). anyways.

    Pull the peel ply off the canopy exit frame and rudder. Then glassed the other side of the rudder and the cockpit entry door.



    Trimmed the glass off the emergency exit, then put it back into position. Then i placed the G-10 front canopy box temporarily in place:



    Then I made up the center windscreen template from some 1/8" balsa.. Shape and size looks pretty good, so I will transfer this to some G-10 for the frame, and use the balsa template as a form for marking a frame stiffener:



    Then using some tracing paper, I made up a template for the front fuselage balsa pieces. These pieces cover 2 openings per piece.. so 22 pieces were needed.. in the first photo is a stack of 18. I then covered the top half of the fuselage with these pieces:



    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

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    frequent flyer's Avatar
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    Can you tell me how thick the wing root is? I am building the same plane from the same plan and I think your doing a fantastic job. I was drawing the ribs in comp u foil and needed to be sure I get it correct. Also did you put washout into the wing? How much?
    Epoxy Glass Fuselages, Short Kits & Fiberglass parts. Proudly made in the U.S.A. rcaiir.com
    email: rcaiir@gmail.com

  24. #49
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2


    ORIGINAL: frequent flyer

    Can you tell me how thick the wing root is? I am building the same plane from the same plan and I think your doing a fantastic job. I was drawing the ribs in comp u foil and needed to be sure I get it correct. Also did you put washout into the wing? How much?

    65% which works out around 7/8"

    No washout
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  25. #50
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: Mod'd Hostetler 1/4 GeeBee R2

    In between working on the F-14 and some other stuff, I did some work on the GeeBee..

    I routed out some 3/8' thick balsa (that was then ripped down to 3/16" thick) for a piece of yellow inner nyrod to fit. Once the nyrod is sanded down, the 2 pieces of balsa will but up against each other holding the nyrod firmly. This will then hold the hinge pin for the ailerons.



    The wing side of the hinge will have some of Tarvin Model Products (http://www.tarvinmodelproducts.com) Aluminum hinges. The aileron leading edge will be slotted to accept these hinges. These things are very nice as the hinge pin hole can be adjusted to any size, and their small height @ the hinge pin makes them perfect for the very thin wing of the Gee Bee towards the wing-tip.



    Then using some 1/8" balsa sheet and some 1/8"sq. spruce strips, Hinge "pockets" are made to accept the wing hinges.



    Then using some G-10 sheet, I made up the rest of the windscreen frames. I need to get a large piece of G-10 to do the piece from the Windscreen aft portion of the frame..



    Then the area's where the clear glass would be was rough cut out:

    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2


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