TF P 51 1/5 scale kit built
#27
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Very nice, I just started building mine. I'm putting in the counter balances in the stab, does that eliminate the 4th hinge? Or do I move it closer to the tip?
i appreciate any advice.
i appreciate any advice.
#28
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Stab build installing counter balances, does that eliminate 4th hinge point?
Very nice, I just started building mine. I'm putting in the counter balances in the stab, does that eliminate the 4th hinge? Or do I move it closer to the tip?
i appreciate any advice.
i appreciate any advice.
#29
Thread Starter
Jr, yes put the fourth one at the tip, lay them out even and the one at the tip will be about 1/2" outside of the ballance tab
#30
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#33
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Thanks,
Can I run a dle 61 with a bladed prop, on the 1/5 p-51? Any input is greatly appreciated, this is my first scale kit. Can have to get new radio, my 7ch isn't gonna cut it with what I want to do.
Can I run a dle 61 with a bladed prop, on the 1/5 p-51? Any input is greatly appreciated, this is my first scale kit. Can have to get new radio, my 7ch isn't gonna cut it with what I want to do.
#35
Thread Starter
Jr you might find out that standard servos are called for on this plane, your instructions call out what in. oz. is required. I used 72 in. oz. on the whole plane except throttle. Control surfaces are not all that large, one way to figure what servo to use is measure the sq. in. of the surface you want to control, say if it's 30 sq. in then a standard 47 in. oz. is plenty. loads on the ailerons, rudder and elevator are not going to be very much, the flaps are twice the size and 72 in. oz. is plenty for them. It doesn't matter what servos you use, Futaba, JR, Spectrum and Hi-tech are all good ones, just get the right ones, digitals are the best but standard works just as well, two bearings and metal gears will out last a single bearing and composit gears. You have choices, make sure the plugs match your reciever, same goes for extensions and Y's
When you get ready to set the throws stick with the reccomended ones in the manuel.
Leroy
When you get ready to set the throws stick with the reccomended ones in the manuel.
Leroy
#37
Thread Starter
The Mustang has been sold, it was bought locally and I will get to see it fly, something I really wanted. It was a great build and I learned alot doing it. Next up is a 1/4 scale PA-18 super Cub, it's getting the works. will be built out of the BUSA 1/4 J3 cub kit, should be fun.
Leroy
Leroy
#39
Thread Starter
Jr I'm not sure what you mean, I assume you mean where the center of LE butts to fuselage. You need to have the chin on fuselage finished and set the wing on it to finish where the chin extends into the wing center, maybe a picture will help.
Hope these help.
Leroy
Hope these help.
Leroy
#43
RM; Leroy is a builder, he has been in the aerospace industry for over fifty years building full scale aircraft. From what I've heard, he has never flown a rc aircraft. Hopefully Leroy will chime in here and confirm if my information is correct and true.
Roger
Roger
#45
Thread Starter
Today I'm building a 1/4 scale Super Cub that is more challenging than the mustang if you can believe that. and it is paying for this one.
Leroy
#48
Join Date: Jul 2014
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Leroy, I went thru your thread and you may not be following it any more. I am having trouble with my P-51A inner gear doors opening about 1/2" in flight. I'm using air cylinders and sequencer. How did you do you inner doors? I don't see any detail in the thread. Any info or old saved pics would be appreciated. thanks.
Darrell (flyerp40)
Darrell (flyerp40)
#49
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I own Leroys Mustang now, I can tell you he didnt build any inner doors.
A couple things to consider with your cylinders is the mechanical leverage or advantage they have over the door and the air system volume.
if you can increase the mechanical advantage then the cylinders will have more leverage.
If you can increase the total volume of the air system then it will have more power to hold and cycle everything.
The doors themselves need to be built well and not twist too.
A couple things to consider with your cylinders is the mechanical leverage or advantage they have over the door and the air system volume.
if you can increase the mechanical advantage then the cylinders will have more leverage.
If you can increase the total volume of the air system then it will have more power to hold and cycle everything.
The doors themselves need to be built well and not twist too.
#50
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TY, Chris; all good info. Doors are solid, no twist. Your thoughts go along with mine. I have 5/16" dia with 1 1/4" extension. I'll try to see if I can move them to front of door and increase leverage.