ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

I had the DA-120 freshened up for it as well.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

That would be me, yes!

acerc

What would it take to get a couple?

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Send me an email! The DA and DLE are different, and the DLE has a large and small as well!

acerc

Email sent.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

I dont think it worked, try [email protected]

acerc

That's the email I have.

VincentJ

A glued canopy may look nicer over one that's fastened into place, but when the time comes to have to replace one that's damaged I'll take the one that's screwed in place!

Paid attention to some small details, such as covering the threads on the elevator control horns. If you look carefully you will see the difference of one that's covered vs. one that isn't, I simply used some aluminum tubing that I had laying around for the job.

My IBEC came in the mail today! It's made by Tech-Aero designs http://www.tech-aero.net/ultra-ibec It's a great way to have an on/off kill switch activated by your transmitter. I've used them before on my other "gassers".

acerc

The devil is in the details. And you are definitely addressing each one with class.

Melchizedek

Took me awhile to figure out what you were doing with the tube.
Then, the Aha moment.
The difference between a womans "it's winter time very hairy leg" and " it's summer time shaven one.
Like Robert said kinda. one detail is a devil, and one detail very fine.

Nice touch

Kevin

acerc

I must say the Tech Aero IBEC is the best, small, light, bullet proof. Now, I do have a question. Are you going to power it off the Rx? I run all mine with the power outside of the Rx.

VincentJ

Thanks Robert and Kevin.

I'm going to power it by plugging it into a spare auxiliary channel which provides power to the CDI ignition module, allowing control of ignition power to the engine the entire time the model is being operated. The switch seen on the outside of the fuselage will mechanically turn on/off power from the battery. I'll probably program the Gear switch in this case to power the system up or down, a bright LED (which can be ordered in different colors), power indicator helps verify if the switch is on or off.

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

I have been very busy with my son prior to his TDY for training followed by deployment. If he says (very frequently with NO notice) "Lets go here now", I leave. Makes reading email and other things kind of slow.

That being said I have a couple of comments that are made in the interests of clarification and different (not necessarily better) ideas.

About the rudder hinge pin. Your way is sexy, takes planning and work. I am lazy so MY approach is to cut a very tiny "V" in the bottom of the rudder itself and make an "L" in the hinge pin and then cover it over. If the rudder needs to come off, it probably will need to be recovered anyway so that is a wash. The size of the "L" should not be over 1/4" long and the "V" just deep and long enough to hide the wire so the covering barely touches it. Getting the correct length of the hinge pin can be tedious.

About the tubes on the elevator control horns. I may be all wet, but it seems that step would be better taken after the initial trim flight. No matter what I have done to prevent having to move control horns up and down screws, I have had to adjust the depth on too many occasions to set it up solid too early. Could you comment on your experience, maybe I can learn from your approach.

Thanks.

acerc

I am going to use both Vincent's method of a rod and Jim's idea of securing, sort of. I can make the L about 2" long and put it between the tail wheel leafspring and fuse ply plate.

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

ROFLOL! I have a reputation to maintain. I am known for breaking things, but rarely the tail wheel assembly! However, that is a good idea I have used before but stopped when I discovered that high speed off runway landing can insert grass and debris under the wire causing the rudder to depart the airframe. Maybe I did something wrong...

acerc

Well, uh, hmm, for this application the tailwheel leafspring goes to the rear far enough that there will be only maybe an 1/8" showing. If grass can grab hold of that it can have it, then I will change it.

VincentJ

Jim, I've never had to move my control horn lengths around after I set them up in the shop.

After centering the servo, I select what I think will be the right length servo arm, then I duplicate the same length on the control surface (horn). I'm looking to get full travel on my servo while getting the full amount of control surface deflection. If I can't get the deflection on the control surface that I'm looking for, that's when I will make the control horn longer or shorter to get the job done. Once I have what I'm looking for, everything is locked into place and I'm good to go. It's that simple!

Received my props today, I bought two carbon fiber Mejzlik 22x8 props. They are huge and expensive! I was excited to drill them out and get one installed on my DA to see how it would look. All I need now is the spinner to come in so I can get to balancing...

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

Oh. I was looking at them as lock points for the control horn.

Robert, I have to admit my forward facing "L" was a failed experiment with a much longer exposed arm. The 'theory' was to provide some shock tolerance for the tail wheel when landing on a rocky field (we were about to get one) with the hinge pin. Like many other ideas, it really was not a good one.

acerc

That's ok Jim, "Every farmer has his own way to town". I do near abouts the same as Vincent on set-up. I set the surface to full deflection and with the servo horn at 100% throw I look to connect the two as close to this point as possible. My biggest issue is that usually the mfg's recommended throw is wayyyyyy to much for my flying style. I usually end up resetting the links after finding "my" end point from flight. I have always felt one does not do the servo well to use less than 90% of it's capacity.

VincentJ

I agree 100% Robert. Too many set-up I see don't use the full range of the servo...not good.

VincentJ

Time to sort out where all the electronics are going...

acerc

Looks nice and neat. Is everything placed for balance as well?

raptureboy

Silly Robert, this is the amazing Vincent were talking about here. I'm sure he already calculated the cubic weight of all internal devices, multiplied by the square root of 1/2 the the wing area and adjusted for the gravitational offset of the moon when it's at it's closest point to the runway to arrive at the exact center of gravity.

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

I noted that you tied down the remote receiver line and that is good. I have eaten at least one bird because the line broke due to flex. It is amazing how many 'little things' can set the end date of a model.

And yes, I firmly believe that there is no valid reason to use less than 90% of the servo throw.

Melchizedek

Vincent

You have been hiding the wings on us.
Is there a cool surprise awaiting us ???

Kevin