WacoNut

Looking good VJ,
I am like you I don't like working with the plastic covering but sometimes it is a necessary evil.
Later!!
Anthony

stevegauth30

Hope you guys enjoy yourselves. You deserve it after the hoops you've jumped through lately. The thing I don't care for with the plastic covering, especially with an every day flier, is after so long it always starts to peel and stuff. Maybe I wasn't applying it right, but that's just me. After one or two seasons at the most, I usually end up re-covering it.

davevh

I think that's mostly a vice with the oil spitters, my gliders and electrics have lasted many years without needing recovering. But yeah, the nitro planes would peel at the edges after a while like they were sunburned skin!
One exception to this, though I guess it was not strictly film but still iron-on, is Solartex. I don't recall that ever coming loose.

davevh

Huh, you did a bang up job, I would have thought that was all paint unless I knew otherwise. I actually find Ultracote to be the easiest to work with of the films, and the most durable. I tend to work as cold as possible to extend the lifespan of the shrink. I never use a heat gun any more either, horrible things!

VincentJ

Thanks Anthony, I'm glad you're still checking in on this thread! Hope that you are feeling better.

Thanks Steve and Dave... while plastic is not my favorite means of covering, it is the right choice for this application. I am very familiar with Solartex, and it is far superior to plastic and much easier to apply I might add. I am very happy with the color match between the Klass Kote paint and the red Ultra Cote, it is spot on!

Here are a few more pictures that I took today. The elevator halves have been completed as well as installing the Robart hinges. I used 30 minute epoxy to lock the hinges into place. I do both sides at the same time to ensure the hinges are orientated in the proper position. Using 30 minute epoxy gives you ample working time...

For you long time followers, remember this build?

TCampbell

Hey Vinny, looking good. While I'm comfortable with plastic covering, temperature control and application, I would like to hear your approach to getting such nice straight lines in areas like the white of the stabilizers against the red of the fuselage; and the red accent stripe along the leading edge and tips of the stabilizer. Do you cut the piece to shape first and then apply or iron an oversized piece on and then use a straight edge to cut the line?

VincentJ

Thanks Tim, I'll be glad to answer your question(s). Every one has their own way of doing things and that's great because in this hobby there is usually more than one way to get excellent results.

Any time I want good straight lines, I don't cut it after it's ironed on, I make the cut before it's ironed on. I use a straight edged razor blade along with a steel straight edge and that gives me a nice clean cut. Now, when your ready to apply said piece, how you apply it is going to make the difference on whether you have success or not. It's all about heat management along with using the right tool. I don't use a small trim sealing iron, I find that the setting is way too high and will cause too much shrinkage making your straight line wavy. Instead, use your larger covering iron and use the knob on it to control the temperature setting. Speaking of temperature control, the only way to get accurate temps is by using a non-contact infra red thermometer in conjunction with your sealing iron. Shoot for around 220 degrees, enough to activate the adhesive but not cause shrinkage and ruining your straight edge.

I am now using a sock over my sealing iron, and I like it very much, I find that using it eliminates the fine scratches that you often get when not using one. I do find that I have to bump up the temp a bit when using a sock though.

Hope this helps out Tim!

TCampbell

Yep, thanks for the details. I guessed that was the approach and you've made those lines look like they were painted. Keep on keepin' on!

Leroy Gardner

Vincent your covering work looks very nice in the pictures, if it looks that good with the naked eye then you have done a very, verry nice job. Ultra-Cote is my choice when I do film, like all coverings you need to get to know it and the iron does a good job for me on open frame work but I use the heat gun on planked surfaces with very good results. Like you said there is more than one way to accomplish a covering but heat management is the key to all of it along with knowing how the covering is going to react to the heat.

You put a picture of your Ryan in the last group of picts., did you cover the wings or is it paint, reguardless, it's a fine looking plane. Seams to be your trade mark.

Sounds like your love life is good for the sprit, I'm happy for you, can't think of anything in life that beats it.

Leroy

VincentJ

Thanks Leroy, I think it looks pretty good but you can get an unbiased opinion when Tim and Gary see it, they can tell you if it's as good as it looks...

My Ryan's wings were covered in Solartex then painted using Klass Kote epoxy paint, the fuselage was glassed like my Edge and painted as well. It's the plane that I am most proud of...

sensei

Obviously the work of a true craftsmen, fantastic looking airplane Vincent!!!

Bob

davevh

You did an amazing job on the Ryan. I assume this was the full size aircraft you based it on:

http://www.airliners.net/photo/Ryan-STA/2208961/L/

I have to ask, where is the windshield (or perhaps I am jumping the gun and this is still a work in progress)? Also, the real spinner is a lot shorter and white, I assume an RC version would be impossible to find?

VincentJ

Thanks Dave, and yes I modeled my Ryan from the same plane on your link. I haven't gotten around to making the windscreen for it yet, but I will sooner or later...

Covered the rudder today, here are some photos. I included some shots to show the steps that I took to cover the rudder. All in all I am happy with the results. Tonight I will epoxy the hinges into place, the rudder will be able to be removable as I am installing a steel rod that will run up through all of the hinges.

VincentJ

Sorry for the photos being out of order!

acerc

Looks great Vincent. What is your purpose for the wire in the rudder making it removable, transport/storage?

Melchizedek

I was wondering Vince. Did you go white over red ? And did your top color go completely over or just 1/4 seam line.
Also was there any bleed through of color between the red and white ? Pics don't show any!

+1 on rudder hinge ?

I can see why you like the red white combo. Looks sharp

Kevin

VincentJ

The reason for putting the removable wire through the hinges is to replace a damaged rudder either from transport or from flying. Makes changing out the rudder a snap!

Kevin, on the rudder I just laid down the small white strip right on top of the red covering. If I were covering a large section, then I would have overlapped seams of 1/4". No bleed through what so ever. If you keep the temp down on the iron you won't get the gassing, which causes air bubbles.

acerc

Vincent, have you ever tried the Windex method for applying layers of plastic?

VincentJ

No, you'll have to explain that one to me Robert. I've used Windex when applying graphics, but haven't heard of using it for covering...

acerc

It was recommended to me when I did the flag on my profile. The Windex works the same for applying covering as it does decals. I covered the airframe in white and used Windex to apply the stars and stripes, the ammonia activates the adhesive. It works very well but just for extra measure after it had dried I ran the perimeter with Monocote trim solvent using a Q-tip. It has been on for a couple years now with no bubbling or peeling.

VincentJ

Very interesting Robert, I'll have to try that out some time! That's a great Fun Fly plane...

Finished up epoxying the rudder hinges in place. You can now see how I accomplished the task of having a removable rudder with the long hinge pin that I made. I soldered a collar to a small brass plate on the bottom which has one servo screw holding it in place. Should I ever have the need to remove the rudder, removing the one screw and the whole hinge just slides out!

acerc

Very slick Vincent, that also helps fill the hinge gap for performance fliers, very cool! I think I'll copy it....

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Hey Vinnie, I dont know if you have run the tail servo wires yet, but if you want a few of these let me know. I am going to epoxy them on a few fuse formers to run the 3 tail servo wires in one snakeskin for my new 104 inch Extra.

.

VincentJ

That's pretty slick Gary, I ran all of my servo (tail) wires through a rocket tube that I had installed earlier in the build. Can't wait to see your new plane!

acerc

Gary, are you the guy making the ign holders?