willig10

Forgot that I am going to locate and build at least one hatch maybe two for my air lines and switches. Will work on that when I get back from vacation. Looking forwaard to getting her finished, weighed/CG and ultimately the maiden.

Glenn

mirce

Hello Glen,
I'm not sure where you can buy paint for your P 47 in USA, but for rivets and all other details for surface visit this web site: www.nsmodelers.rs

Regars

Mirce

Leroy Gardner

Glenn you might find this thread of some intrest, it's all about pannel lines and rivets.

Easy Lines & Rivets
Leroy

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Glenn, don't do rattle can..... use auto paint or Klass kote paints. Leroy will steer you right if you go with the auto paint route. Use a good primer, not rattle can and vinyl rivets are fast and look good for your first finishing attempts. Chad Viech offers vinyl rivets in any color you want and any spacing and size, he is local too so easy to get what you need. He has the overlay hatches and details too. I have learned a lot finishing my chipmunk and it will serve my P-47 well when I start to finish it.....soon.

Looking good and cant wait to see her all done.


TB

willig10

Thanks LeRoy and Tony. Much appreciated. Just starting to glass the bottom side of the flaps so have awhile to go yet.

Glenn

willig10

LeRoy, can you resend the link on panel lines and rivets? When I click on the one you posted it says cannot display web page.

Thanks
Glenn

willig10

All:
made it home from vacation last night. First order of business this morning was to cut the belly pan away from the forward fuselage. Then block sand both ends of the wing and fuselage to profile. Next up was to fill the belly pan seams with filler. I am going to let that dry overnight then sand it down.

Next up was to go ahead and remove both flaps and prep them for glassing.

More to follow.

Glenn

willig10

Next was to prep both flaps for glassing. Then cut two pieces of fiberglass, one for both flap bottoms. I laid the cloth on each bottom then mixed up a batch of Z-Poxy and poured a little on the flap. I used a hotel card key to spread the Z-Poxy then used a little more to ensure the edges were laid down and no air pockets or lifting occured. After I was satisfied with the coverage, i then cut away some excess fiberglass overhang and am now letting the flaps dry overnight.

Will trim the excess away tomorrow and then do the top halves.

Also will be cutting and constructing a hatch for air and switches in the morning. I will not be on early as I have a meeting tomorrow. As soon as the meeting is done I will get back on "BAB". haha

More to come

Glenn

willig10

Tony:
When you laid out your fiberglass did it soak up the Z-poxy a lot? I used more than I thought I needed. Soaked it up pretty fast and I sanded the flaps pretty well with 600 then 1500 grit. Both halves were as smooth as a babies behind.

I guess, I will go buy some more Z-poxy tomorrow just in case I need more.

Glenn

willig10

Tony:
One more question. Where did you locate your hatch for your airl lines and switches? Can't remember what you did but am wanting to duplicate it, if it is not in the "Nose art" area.

Thanks in advance


Glenn

willig10

Doing some preliminary sanding and I like Z-Poxy. It sands nice and after an initial sanding you can use some squadron green putty if there are any nicks that need to be built up. I think this is going to work out.

Glenn

willig10

Sanded down the belly pod on the wing and applied a tad bit more filler. Will work on that some more later. The flaps are coming along and I really like what I am seeing. Will post pictures tomorrow.

Glenn

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Glenn, it depends on how you are applying it. I use 3/4" weave and place the weave on first. Then I brush the resin on with a throw away 1" brush. I don't squeegee it of. The dry balsa will soak up some resin, you want this. I cant tell you how many bottles of resin I used but it was a lot, one isn't going to do it. I am a heavy builder. There are many ways to glass. Some like to squeegee it off and then fill the weave with spackle. I hit it again with the brush for the second coat. Then sand aggressively with 60-80 grit. I can use a palm sander on flat parts.

TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Glenn, I placed the hatches in the scale location, one by the left side at the canopy, and the other on the top of the fuselage just in front of the wind screen.








TB

2FAS

My Feedback: (5)

Glenn, I used Chad's vinyl rivets on my arf and they worked great. I little tip I used was I brushed auto clear over the rivets with a brush and you can't notice the clear. I did this to protect the vinyls from gasoline. My P-47 is still factory mono-coated.

2FAS

Leroy Gardner

I think alot of guys dont know that flush rivets can be put in Monocote and Ultra-Cote with striking results, even the pannel lines. When I was perfecting the scribing method I also tested it on Flight Metal and Ultra-Coat and the results were fantastic. I did a thread on the scribing in primer prior to paint. It took awhile to get the tools (dental picks, the real ones) shaped and sharpened right and they really worked well.

If all else failes go to the search box and enter (easy lines and rivets) by Leroy Gardner, Thread is in Tips & Techniques.

Some examples bellow.

Leroy

Leroy Gardner

Scribe tools and other examples. Ultra-Cote, Primer and Flite Metal

Leroy

willig10

Thanks everyone. Your details and explanations are greatly appreciated. Keep them coming.

Now that school has started I get to work on the BAB just a few hours each day. Taking my daughter to school although a chore is something I cherish.

Well I disassembled the control surfaces and removed the the horns etc. Next up was to remove all the dust from each surface. Lay down 3/4 ounce cloth over the surface, smooth out the cloth over the surface then using sharp scissors cut away excess cloth with about 1/2" overhang. Then smooth the ends out and cut a relief in the cloth where it makes a 90 degree turn. This allows the cloth to lay down on your desired area.

After that was accomplished I mix up some Z-Poxy 50/50 (No alcohol) and pour a little along the upper half of the control surface. Then using a credit card (plastic) etc. I move some of the Z-Poxy over to the hinge area and ensure one half of the hinge is coated. Then I spread the Z-poxy over the surface and ensure the cloth and wood have been saturated with the Z-poxy. After all the cloth is covered and I am satisfied that all is covered. I take the credit card and lightly wipe the surface and squegee any excess resin off the surface and place the excess back in my mixure cup. I do this step until I can no longer get any Z-poxy on the credit card.

Then I move on to the next surface.

After all surfaces that I am working on (Usually 2 at a time) are cured. I then sand the surface flush using initially course paper and moving to a medium or fine paper. After the surface has been sanded to "semi" smooth status. I then use squadron green (Some use bondo spot putty) and spread that over the entire surface. THis gives me 2 advantages to regular glassing. First, it fills the pin holes and allows me to use only one coat of Z-poxy instead of 2. All surfaces are smooth as a babies butt, and the control surfaces are light and strong.

Also if you apply light pressure during your sanding you will not blow out the glass. Will need to still cut a hatch on the fuse for my switches and air system, but will more than likely be working on the bottom side of the wings next. I am going to apply 2 ounce cloth on the belly pan and forward bottom fuselage. The rest of the fuselage and wings will be covered in Thayer 3/4 ounce cloth.

Glenn

willig10

2 ounce cloth applied to the Belly pan. Hope to never have a gear up but if I do, I hope the heavier cloth will offer some protection.

Glenn

willig10

Ok the glass has been sanded to the tape.The belly pod glass was sanded down to the inside tape area and the tape carefully removed. then the pod was sanded and filled with squadron green putty and resanded. Smooth as a babies behind.

Wings later.

Glenn

willig10

Laid out the lower left hand wing and glassed. Currently out of Z-Poxy and off to the hobby shop to get some more. Pretty happy with the way it turned out so far. Will need to work on the upper half wing as it has got some hangar rash from moving it. Glad to finally be glassing.

Glenn

willig10

Finished the glass on the wings, upper and lower. Now for some detail work before the first shot of primer. Next up was to cut a hatch for the ignition and receiver switches. I also had enough room to install the pneumatics and fuel dot. On my hatch I epoxied a metal plate and will glue/epoxy a magnet under the balsa so the door will not open during flight. I have some touch up work to do on the hatch but here it is in it's initial stage.

Glenn

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Looking good Glenn, you are almost there. Gives me inspiration to get back to Angie.


TB

willig10

Thanks Tony. Sure like your Chipmunk.

willig10

Got the wing prepped for primer. Then shot the upper half of the wings with primer. Now I will allow that to dry and then prime the lower side in the morning. Once all is dry, The sanding begins. After shooting the upper surface, there are just a few areas that need attention. Overall, I am pleased with the way the surface came out.


More to come.


Glenn