najet

I have found a few things, that, in total, make it a little less aggravating to set up.
1. Skip the locknuts and use the provided standard nuts and lockwashers - the nylon in the lock nuts will wear out after a few assemblies, anyway. This makes it easier to get the nut started by hand and it only needs to stay tight for 10 minutes at a time and you can preflight it before the next flight....
2. File/sand the inboard strut-ends to a rounded shape from the original saw-tooth cut - this makes it much less likely to cut the fabric during assembly.
3. The best investment I made was a set of long-handled ball-end allen wrenches (great for the cowl and the struts). Conventional wisdom always has the bolt head on top, but, like you, I install mine from the bottom since it is much easier to let gravity hold the washer and lock washer on the bolt during assembly.
4. I use one of those styrofoam Robart assembly stands. This elevates the plane enough to use my ball wrench under the strut.
5. Spread a small white towel under the fuse to catch an errant nut during assembly (I bought a couple sets of extra bolts/nuts to bring with me)!
6. I have enough servo extension length that I do all of my connections through the windscreen opening after the wing is bolted on. I then feed as much extension as I can back into the wing holes and secure the rest with a loop of self-adhesive velcro on the underside of the wing (looking down at the plane, you can't see any wires through the windows - this will be harder to do once I install the pilot figure).
7.A few guys have reduced the the strut/fabric tearing during assy/disassembly by separating the wing halves as soon as its off the saddle, but, I do more damage this way since the tube is a tight fit and i always rock the struts into the side of the fuse...

on a side note, my tailwheel fork partially separated from the wire steering shaft during a taxi-test yesterday. The fork/axle stayed attached but just pivoted at will ( I thought my steering arm set-screw had loosened up). I removed the wheel/axle and put the fork/shaft upside-down in a vise and center-punched the shaft over the original machine-press mark and then put a big glob of solder on it as well. Much stronger now...

Crummy weather in Florida put off my maiden for a few more days....

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Rich

Have you read my post # 185 on page 8? I totally agreed with najet's suggestions as they are almost equal to mine, I too practice to assemble and disassembled my airplanes before I take them to the windy field, I have done that already and know how to assemble and disassembled mine, I added two small struts end covers to prevent any damage, so far it is working and will improve the designe.

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Finally here is my fix to the landing gear, as I mentioned before double the main gear, it came out better than I thought.

drdoom

My Feedback: (9)

I thought about that. whats another 30 Bucks if it is solid. might be well worth it. let us know if they turn up at thee wheels.

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Will do, the fIx was easy to do, drilling the holes was easy because the metal was soft, I enlarge the holes on the top gear and tapped the ones on the bottom gear, use button head style 4/10 mm screws, couldn't find standard screws suitable for the job that's why I used metric instead.

With this fix I only had to lift the ignition module try at the rear a 1/4", in order to clear the head of the center gear mounting screws, I keep the two outer screws the same as they are long enough to exit the other side of the blind nuts but I got me longer ones for the center plate, long enough to exit the other side of the blind nuts by about 1/2".

I figured that if I had flown it with the soft gear at landing the prop would have striken the ground then I would have been force to spend another $25.00 any ways.

drdoom

My Feedback: (9)

It looks really good. I just ordered a set.Ill try the tempering to the new set. if it worls it may be while before i thy them with winter around the corner...

[email protected]

My Feedback: (2)

I am waiting for the field test for me to know for sure. However, it is my thought that if it is not tempered, it will eventually bend. It will just take more force and or time. Plus the looks are very important to me on a scale airplane. GPs really need to fix it. Or I may consider returning it.

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Thank you drdoom
I will be testing/maiden on Monday, I'll make sure I bang the heck out of the gear to see how it takes it, I will take a gap measurement before the first flight then at the end of the day.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (2)

I am putting the LG in the oven tonight for two hours. Let them cool a few hours after that.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

I have already reinforced my LG with Rods and Landing Gear Straps on the underside; I went ahead ahead and ordered another set of LG and will place them over the top side like 'CARS' has done, I don't think I need to mount it the same way with 6 sets of screws, I think one set of screws at the bottom should be sufficient, especially considering I already have the rods on the bottom, and the top is well anchored; may be overkill, but I have to agree, when I first mounted the original LG, I thought they were kinda whimpy for the job

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Desintex

Totally agree, no need for your mains to have that many screws, specially if they are reinforced, I'm sure three or even two screws are sufficient but like gutzmer said " looks is important " I think the mains look good with six screws set like the way I did, also the flat black of the screws looks good on the white paint.

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Baseball now.

GO GIANTS!

Edited

What an awesome game they had, I was building during the game, couldn't stop biulding.

What an awesome 4th game.

No so good 6th game

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

My choke is on/off via push road ( pictures ) on the tail wheel I lost a C clip ( the china C clips are really bad ) from the shaft, to replace it I got me from the LHS, from the car section a bag with a mix of small C and O fasteners. I also got me a package of plastic end cover from the hardware store for the struts ends, with a little work using the mini torch I got them to the proper shape, they are been held by a screw that the the struts themself keeps them from falling off, one other thing I will be doing is to add a piece of clear packing box tape to the area where the struts could cause damage.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (2)

So this morning I took the LG out of the oven and started painting them. A hour or so to install and put everything back together and its ready for a test flight. Only I have little enthusiasm to do so. But I really want to know if the gear is stronger. I will update later if I do go flying.
'

Planeclothes

My Feedback: (1)

I sent GP an email regarding the LG issue, so far there has been no answer, but I am sure they will reply eventually. In the meantime I have been going though the forums and found at least one flyer who managed to maiden his Citabria with no problems, looks like he had a perfect landing. Others are looking for a possible CF replacement landing gear, something like this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...8cc_size_.html

jimkim

Great Planes Citabria: Response to posted comments on the internet

Lately there have been comments on the Great Planes Citabria. We would like to take a moment to address them with those of you who have concerns.
There have been a small number of individuals posting that the landing gear on this airplane are too soft and bends easily. Firstly, we want to assure all of you that the landing gear was thoroughly tested during the plane's development. This included flights from grass and asphalt as well as purposeful hard landings as part of the testing. During this time we did not encounter any problems with the gear failing. Both of those test airplanes were active all summer and are still actively being flown at shows for demonstrations. After a few postings on the internet we thought it would be prudent to check to see if there had been changes in the manufacturing of the gear. The first thing we did was confirm with the factory that there had been no changes since the prototypes were created. The second thing we did was to do a Rockwell hardness test on the currently supplied landing gear and the landing gear used for the prototypes. This test confirmed that in fact the hardness and temper of the prototypes and the production models were the same. We have been following the various threads and see that some of you have been using larger engines or making modifications that could increase the weight. If a plane does become heavier through the modification process this will affect the landing gear. So far the comments on the landing gear represent a very small fraction of the number of planes sold. Though not conclusive it does lead us to believe that the landing gear problem as stated may not be a widespread issue. If you were to purchase a replacement gear from Great Planes it would be the same landing gear supplied with the kit. Some of you have asked if there is an after-market landing gear available. To our knowledge there is not one available. Our current gear is a 6061-T-6 aluminum. This is very good quality aluminum and has been used regularly and successfully on many of our large scale offerings. Other metal options, carbon fiber, etc. are not a cost effective option that the modeling community will accept. Understand, Great Planes always strives to release the very best products at a competitive price.

There have also been comments made about the struts. If you install the struts and strut brackets as instructed in the manual they work well and require minimum assembly time at the field. The wing was purposely design to be in two pieces for easier storage and transportation. A few comments have been made to us that putting the wing onto the fuselage with the struts installed caused the struts to puncture the fuselage covering. If you try to install the wing directly over the wing saddle the struts are long enough to contact the fuselage and potentially make a hole. The proper way to install the wing with the struts installed is to place the assembled wing over the top of the fuselage behind the wing saddle where the fuselage is significantly narrower. Slide the wing forward into position. When sliding the wing forward the strut brackets are now under the fuselage where they will not cause damage.

Great Planes R&D staff

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Great Planes didn't state what Engine they have on those 2 Test Planes? What Engines are the guys that are having problems with the gear using?

[email protected]

My Feedback: (2)

I think they were reffering to me, I put the twin 40cc on mine. But, the difference in weight is very small and not at all a factor. All of us who have exeperenced bent landing gear know that it is not due to over weight aircraft or hard landings. But this is the stance that a corporation must take. I can understand that. But in the long run we can best show our unhappy feelings by spending money elsewhere.
i am not a fool when it comes to building aircraft. My experience with this aircraft is nothing new to me. I just want to point out the single biggest issue I have found with this ARF.
I will resolve this on my own so I can fly this thing. But I am not happy.

Planeclothes

My Feedback: (1)

Dasintex: If they are the ones used for the promo video, the one doing most of the flying looks like a DLE 30 with stock muffler, they also show one with a 1.60 Rimfire. I will try to keep mine as light as possible, will not even use a choke servo.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (2)

I did a quick check on the two most popular gas motors and my own.
VVRC 40 cc total weight including ing and muffler's= 44 OZ
DLE 35RA total = 39.88 OZ
DLE 30 Total = 38.4 OZ
So my larger motor is less than 5 OZ more weight than the other recomended motor's GP suggest. Now I dont believe 5 OZ weight on the nose could cause the LG to collapse on normal landings.
I will test the tempering I did on my LG this weekend for sure and let everyone know. But I know it was soft. Even the guys at my club saw my first landing and noted how easy the gear bent. Im talking about a group of people that have been in the hobby as builders for more than 30 years. so it's not just my own opionion here. I have been in the hobby since the early 80's AMA # 141415

drdoom

My Feedback: (9)

Mine will be here tomorrow. Ill do the same thing slowly backing the temp down over a couple of hours. Yep this is y 45 th year of RC . This gear will bend eventually as suggested a Month ago hereby _gutzmo. No matter who you are. It is NOT the motor, you need it to balance the model. If it is Near balance hte landing gear will bend. Im interested in the model with the stock gear and a Bad touchdown.

Mntflyby

I just got my gear out of the box and had a look at it. Yes its soft aluminum. Reminds me of the Sig Fourstar 120 I built years ago, it also had very springy gear. Remember getting hold of both wheels and pushing them back together after every flight. Made for nice smooth landings though. It would bend instead of bouncing. I am just going to measure it up and call TNT and have them make me a set out of thicker stock. Plus the stock they use will be top quality hard stuff. Its hard to tell how many pop cans they used in the batch of metal they used to make those gear. Just thought I would jump in here. Have not built mine yet but plan using DLE 35ra.

drdoom

My Feedback: (9)

DLE 35 RA in mine it is a good match.

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Very interesting response from GP, as suspected they are listening and that is a good thing, I applaud their efforts to comunicate with their customers.

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Flight report.

Today I was able to maiden my Citabria also tested the modified landing gear.

In one word, AWESOME!

Putting it together at the field was easy and without trouble thanks to the practice done at home, the struts steps how to attach them to the fuse went flawless ( my steps ) no damage to the fuse sides at all, thanks to the protective plastic covers on the struts and the clear box type that was taped to the section around the struts points to reinforce the skin.

The engine ( DLE 35re ) was adjusted previously and was in good condition to fly.

First flight: after taxing for a few minutes I turned her into the wind ( hardly any ) and let her loose, the TO run was short firm and steady, under control, I didn't notice any strong tendency to go left as expected from a tail drager ( using a 20/8 Xoar prop ) the climb out was predictable, on my maidens I use about three clicks of trim of right Alileron and three click of up on the Elevators to assist with the left and down tendencies on first flights.
Once at altitude I recentered the Ailerons for a level wing flight, the Elevators had to go the opposite direction as she wanted to descend, I figured it was 1) because the CG on a new airplane is always a modest one, 2) the added weight of the second landing gear set.
One thing I noticed right away was how responsive the Ailerons are, after crusin around for a few minutes I pushed the throttle to max rpms then a vertical climb with a 1/2 turn, the DLE 35 is more than enough engine for this airplane, very crispy on that maneuver, from there on it was hot climbs with full dives at idle fallow by tight turns, the end of the flight was mostly slow flight with full flaps to get used to the slow down on the approach.

The landing was done with full flaps, as recomended per the manual the final approach should be done with altitude, the flaps are very effective even if you only use the one inch they recomend, don't use any more than that, you also need to carry some power on the descend to final about 1/4 throttle and on final about 1/8 , if you cut the power completely she will sink rapidly but is possible to recover from that, if you have flown a full size Cessna 182 you know what I'm talking about.

The Citabria landed adjacent to the paved runway, on the grass runway, it was a smooth good landing, short, no bouncing, short roll.