Bill Hempel 40% Super Cub ARF
#26
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Some progress, I mounted the engine yesterday. In my opinion this is the hardest part of an ARF build. It took me a while as I wanted to try and get it so I don't have to cut the cowl for the spark plug heads. And getting the cowl lined up is always a chore. Unfortunately I have to cut the cowl for the spark plug caps, no way to avoid it. I'm not going to stees on it....it is what it is.
I cut the canister opening and fitted some 1/8 ply, haven't glued it in yet, just getting it all fitted. I still have more to do but its a start. The headers are nice and they flex enough to get a good alignment. I am waiting on parts so I can't mount them yet.
The stab is in along with the wires and dry fitted as I will glue it in with 30min epoxy.
Nice clips for the stab wires.
Slowly I go but I'm gaining momentumn.
TB
I cut the canister opening and fitted some 1/8 ply, haven't glued it in yet, just getting it all fitted. I still have more to do but its a start. The headers are nice and they flex enough to get a good alignment. I am waiting on parts so I can't mount them yet.
The stab is in along with the wires and dry fitted as I will glue it in with 30min epoxy.
Nice clips for the stab wires.
Slowly I go but I'm gaining momentumn.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 11-24-2014 at 03:51 AM.
#29
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
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Either way that is one massive ARF!
I just realized you are running an EME 120 and have been eyeing the DLE 120 for a future build. How would you say the EME compares, and what prop size have you ran on the EME?
I just realized you are running an EME 120 and have been eyeing the DLE 120 for a future build. How would you say the EME compares, and what prop size have you ran on the EME?
Last edited by acerc; 11-24-2014 at 08:51 AM.
#30
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TB
#32
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I am waiting an a few orders of parts, got can mounting vinyl graphics, servo arms, wire, links and servos all coming next week. My match boxes won't be here till the fallowing week.
I decided to go with HS-7954TH servos on the flaps instead of the HS-5645mG servos.
I want the option of using the flaps as ailerons too so only made sence to have all four servos the same. 1800 oz per wing should be good
Today I will work on the canister tunnel and anything else I can do.
Happy thanksgiving to all.
TB
I decided to go with HS-7954TH servos on the flaps instead of the HS-5645mG servos.
I want the option of using the flaps as ailerons too so only made sence to have all four servos the same. 1800 oz per wing should be good
Today I will work on the canister tunnel and anything else I can do.
Happy thanksgiving to all.
TB
#33
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Some morning progress.
I installed the tail light and ran the servo leads from the elevator. I decided to not glue in the stab. I want to be able to remove it when I do the refinish. I will also play with removable hingpoints with either pockets or screws.
I ran a string to pull the light lead, I will do the connection threw one of the servo bays.
I cut the ply fir the canister tunnel, 1/8 ply. I did it in 7 pieces. Total weight was 12oz, all forward of the CG so should be good.
It is glued in and drying, 30min epoxy. I will hit it with square and triangle stock in the corners. I still need to add the beacon on the bottom of the fuselage.
Breaktime then back to it.
TB
I installed the tail light and ran the servo leads from the elevator. I decided to not glue in the stab. I want to be able to remove it when I do the refinish. I will also play with removable hingpoints with either pockets or screws.
I ran a string to pull the light lead, I will do the connection threw one of the servo bays.
I cut the ply fir the canister tunnel, 1/8 ply. I did it in 7 pieces. Total weight was 12oz, all forward of the CG so should be good.
It is glued in and drying, 30min epoxy. I will hit it with square and triangle stock in the corners. I still need to add the beacon on the bottom of the fuselage.
Breaktime then back to it.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 11-28-2014 at 02:23 AM.
#36
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Some of yesterday's progress.
The completed canister tunnel. I do not want any hot air blowing into the fuselage.
There is an access hatch for inspections and installs.
I cut the two bays out on the bottom of the fuselage for the air to exit.
The smart fly board is mounted to a piece of micro- lite ply glued to the side wall of the fuselage.
I riped some 1/2 dowls in half on the table saw and glued them to the two center posts in front of the wind screen to give a more tumbler look.
Onward.
TB
The completed canister tunnel. I do not want any hot air blowing into the fuselage.
There is an access hatch for inspections and installs.
I cut the two bays out on the bottom of the fuselage for the air to exit.
The smart fly board is mounted to a piece of micro- lite ply glued to the side wall of the fuselage.
I riped some 1/2 dowls in half on the table saw and glued them to the two center posts in front of the wind screen to give a more tumbler look.
Onward.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 11-28-2014 at 03:25 AM.
#41
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I have seen those but don't want to add the weight, the ply looks good and I would run silicon fuel tubing around the perimeter. But I may change my mind with others advice. I have never done canisters before and know nothing of them or how they are best fit.
Last edited by acerc; 11-28-2014 at 09:16 AM.
#42
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Yesterday's progress, I glued in the ruder and elevator. Hooked up the pull-pull, elevator linkages, and the ruder nav light.
The 6" titaniumn links worked great, perfect fit.
I am using a 2" servo arm and have the link in the second hole. Plenty of throw so I may move it in one more.
I used the Du-Bro 4-40 pull-pull on the ruder. I am using most of the hardware that was supplied with the kit as it is good stuff, I normally toss it all in the junk box.
A 3" servo are is just a tad to big as with full deflection the ruder hits the elevator so I will move the ball links in a hole.
With the tail feathers done I can move onto the engine and fuel tank. I won't have the canister mounts till Tuesday so I will dry fit them.
TB
The 6" titaniumn links worked great, perfect fit.
I am using a 2" servo arm and have the link in the second hole. Plenty of throw so I may move it in one more.
I used the Du-Bro 4-40 pull-pull on the ruder. I am using most of the hardware that was supplied with the kit as it is good stuff, I normally toss it all in the junk box.
A 3" servo are is just a tad to big as with full deflection the ruder hits the elevator so I will move the ball links in a hole.
With the tail feathers done I can move onto the engine and fuel tank. I won't have the canister mounts till Tuesday so I will dry fit them.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 11-29-2014 at 04:33 AM.
#43
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Join Date: Jun 2013
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Looking really good Tony...........
Question.... will you be using two Rx for the plane? If so, will you also use TWO Smart Fly boards?? I heard some go with 4 RX for 50 or 60% planes to distribute the loads plus keep the servo wire runs short....
Keith
Question.... will you be using two Rx for the plane? If so, will you also use TWO Smart Fly boards?? I heard some go with 4 RX for 50 or 60% planes to distribute the loads plus keep the servo wire runs short....
Keith
#44
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Kieth, no I am using the same setup I hade in my 100cc Sbach. That plane worked fine with this setup so I see no need to do it differently. I am planning on flying this like a cub with a little fun to it. Single receiver on a smart fly board, two 5200 bats. Even though I have added 4 more wing servos I don't see why the smart fly board can't handle this, the additional 4 servos are for the flaps and won't see to much action.
TB
TB
#45
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Yesterday's progress.
I desided to do a dedicated pull-pull for the tail wheel. Spring attached to the ruder would not give me the control or the throw I like on the tail wheel. So I ran some guide tubing for the wiers and I will not use any springs. This has worked for me in the past so we will see.
All the tail feathers are glued in and ready for flight.
I started to install the engine, got the fuel tanks tray in and I am using two 20oz side saddle tanks. The tanks are just forward of the CG. I am mounting the tray to the access hatch for the canisters. Both receiver bats are mounted inside the engine box as far forward. The ignition modal is mounted inside from the top on a piece of ply.
As big as this plane is it gets small very fast as you start installing the components.
I will wait to install the ignition bat when I get closer to balancing the plane.
I will install the the throttle and choke servos next and dry fit the canisters.
I need to deside what I will cut out for the drop down muffler exits. The challenge with the cans is clamping them to the headers and then rotating them to fit them in the exit hole. So I may do a U shape cut out so I can install the cans in there ready to go position.
I am using the aluminumn clamp mounting system for the cans so I will make a tray that will allow me to slide the cans in and then all I have to do is bolt the header to the engine.
The U cut out will also be part of the cooling exit for the engine along with the two sqare cut outs at the back of the canister tunnle.
TB
I desided to do a dedicated pull-pull for the tail wheel. Spring attached to the ruder would not give me the control or the throw I like on the tail wheel. So I ran some guide tubing for the wiers and I will not use any springs. This has worked for me in the past so we will see.
All the tail feathers are glued in and ready for flight.
I started to install the engine, got the fuel tanks tray in and I am using two 20oz side saddle tanks. The tanks are just forward of the CG. I am mounting the tray to the access hatch for the canisters. Both receiver bats are mounted inside the engine box as far forward. The ignition modal is mounted inside from the top on a piece of ply.
As big as this plane is it gets small very fast as you start installing the components.
I will wait to install the ignition bat when I get closer to balancing the plane.
I will install the the throttle and choke servos next and dry fit the canisters.
I need to deside what I will cut out for the drop down muffler exits. The challenge with the cans is clamping them to the headers and then rotating them to fit them in the exit hole. So I may do a U shape cut out so I can install the cans in there ready to go position.
I am using the aluminumn clamp mounting system for the cans so I will make a tray that will allow me to slide the cans in and then all I have to do is bolt the header to the engine.
The U cut out will also be part of the cooling exit for the engine along with the two sqare cut outs at the back of the canister tunnle.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 11-30-2014 at 05:08 AM.
#46
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On the 60% wheels , did you get different axles?
10in vs. 8in does not sound like a very big increase. Are they big enough?
I'm the guy at the field with the clipped wing 40%.
When I first flew it I didn't like the way it flew. I flew it three times before I realized I didn't check the CG. It was mega tail heavy. I made two bricks of lead shot and epoxy using the pastic container hitec servos come in. Then I bolted them to the motor box.
Now it flies great !!!!
I can't wait to see yours fly with standard length wings and flaps.
10in vs. 8in does not sound like a very big increase. Are they big enough?
I'm the guy at the field with the clipped wing 40%.
When I first flew it I didn't like the way it flew. I flew it three times before I realized I didn't check the CG. It was mega tail heavy. I made two bricks of lead shot and epoxy using the pastic container hitec servos come in. Then I bolted them to the motor box.
Now it flies great !!!!
I can't wait to see yours fly with standard length wings and flaps.
#47
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On the 60% wheels , did you get different axles?10in vs. 8in does not sound like a very big increase. Are they big enough?I'm the guy at the field with the clipped wing 40%. When I first flew it I didn't like the way it flew. I flew it three times before I realized I didn't check the CG. It was mega tail heavy. I made two bricks of lead shot and epoxy using the pastic container hitec servos come in. Then I bolted them to the motor box. Now it flies great !!!!I can't wait to see yours fly with standard length wings and flaps.
#48
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Dave, good minds think alike. I use the Hitec servo boxes also. I use Powdered Steel and mix it with Epoxy then make a brick in the box. I can either cut them up or bolt them together depending on how much weight I need.
Tony - on the canisters - if using the metal hardware to mount them do you need to keep any special distance from wood?
Keith
Tony - on the canisters - if using the metal hardware to mount them do you need to keep any special distance from wood?
Keith
#49
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Yesterday's progress. I got the throttled and chocke servos installed. The aluminumn mounts really make it easy. I normally make my own but I really like these.
All the electronics are installed and I just need to install the nav lights.
Fuel lines are in and once the canisters are in I can finish the vent and fill lines. The fuselage is almost done and I will start installing the glass.
TB
All the electronics are installed and I just need to install the nav lights.
Fuel lines are in and once the canisters are in I can finish the vent and fill lines. The fuselage is almost done and I will start installing the glass.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 12-01-2014 at 03:52 AM.
#50
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TB