Bulldog build
02-24-2015, 09:58 AM
#51
Bill, if you keep an eye out there are some inexpensive laser levels out there. I found a self leveling one with both a vertical and horizontal lasers that can be mounted to a tripod for only about $20.00. I check the accuracy regularly by beaming it on to a wall and checking with a good carpenter's level just to be safe. I would do the same if I had bought a $200.00 level.
02-24-2015, 02:06 PM
#52
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Bill, if you keep an eye out there are some inexpensive laser levels out there. I found a self leveling one with both a vertical and horizontal lasers that can be mounted to a tripod for only about $20.00. I check the accuracy regularly by beaming it on to a wall and checking with a good carpenter's level just to be safe. I would do the same if I had bought a $200.00 level.
http://www.harborfreight.com/self-le...kit-69243.html
02-24-2015, 02:17 PM
#53
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Bill, if you keep an eye out there are some inexpensive laser levels out there. I found a self leveling one with both a vertical and horizontal lasers that can be mounted to a tripod for only about $20.00. I check the accuracy regularly by beaming it on to a wall and checking with a good carpenter's level just to be safe. I would do the same if I had bought a $200.00 level.
Set it up and turn the horizontal line on.
Rotate laser so the farthest to the left (or right) is shining on the wall.
Make pencil mark in middle of beam.
Then rotate 180.
If the other extreme of the beam splits the pencil line. Then laser is dead on. Easy peasy.
A standard level can only check within it's length. Rotating the laser will check level the entire breadth of its beam.
Kevin
02-24-2015, 02:37 PM
#54
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I have no need to check the laser for level, I use it for the straight line that will expand across all parts. I set it in the orientation needed, never needed it true level just straight.
02-24-2015, 02:38 PM
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I'll definitely do that .... I checked Harbor Freight and found this one for $49.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/self-le...kit-69243.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/self-le...kit-69243.html
02-24-2015, 04:51 PM
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I bought that Strait-Line brand of mine several years ago. At that time I paid near $40 for it so I would assume a descent one now days would be more. There are a few really cheap one's (around $15) but they are not worth the money. The laser is really weak and all lights have to be off to see the laser but then you can't see to work. If anyone is serious about getting one, do yourself a favor and get a descent one.
The one John speaks of is what I would get if I had to replace mine, a laser is definitely worth the money.
Anyone whom has seen mine posted in use sees just how well they aid in keeping things straight. I use it to keep things straight as well as to make center line marks, cut canopies, and numerous other build related task.
My next tool purchase will be another projector, just as valuable for scale building as any other tool.
The one John speaks of is what I would get if I had to replace mine, a laser is definitely worth the money.
Anyone whom has seen mine posted in use sees just how well they aid in keeping things straight. I use it to keep things straight as well as to make center line marks, cut canopies, and numerous other build related task.
My next tool purchase will be another projector, just as valuable for scale building as any other tool.
Last edited by acerc; 02-24-2015 at 04:57 PM.
02-24-2015, 06:55 PM
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In case anyone is wondering why there was not much build posted today, well, simply put, the wet frames glued in take a long time to dry. Even though they are dry to the touch they are still wet inside and that wet's the wood glue when clamped together. I know this from previous build experience.
02-25-2015, 08:47 AM
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Setting the fin can be a pain in the backside, trueing it up vertically while maintaining centered, but not with a laser. I made four centering marks, top and bottom of the front and rear then just line up the marks.
02-25-2015, 08:14 PM
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Robert not only is the work you do straight but, its clean to. I usually have glue all over my hands and tools. Half of my work is spent cleaning up. Anyways, this is going to be one beautiful bipe!! Can't thank you enough.
Guys, most of you know Robert is building this for me and as one of you said, I am one lucky dog. All I can say is yes I am. I just spent the last 3 days ordering everything for the Pitts and I do mean everything. I think my head is going to explode. Lol. He should have it all by the end of next week. By the way you guys can call me Jeff. My forum name is kind of a dork (squirrly ) isn't that cool.
Thanks, Jeff
Guys, most of you know Robert is building this for me and as one of you said, I am one lucky dog. All I can say is yes I am. I just spent the last 3 days ordering everything for the Pitts and I do mean everything. I think my head is going to explode. Lol. He should have it all by the end of next week. By the way you guys can call me Jeff. My forum name is kind of a dork (squirrly ) isn't that cool.
Thanks, Jeff
02-26-2015, 06:41 AM
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The nose has been doubled up and widened for the massive Valach. The whole front will get glassed once I make the engine mount holes. The tank tray has been finished and will permanently install it here shortly after plumbing them.
02-26-2015, 10:45 AM
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I kind of have to being the shop is in the house.
The fuel tanks got set aside, need two clunks. The bottom stringers are in, the side stringers are drying. The tailwheel block and servo hatch is drying, the servo hatch will get glassed so as to be strong enough to support some weight if it needs it for balanceing. Next up is to install the wing and stab tubes, then the legs and associated hardware. The kit calls for balsa blocking around the main legs but I will do it the same as I did mine by wrapping .060 plastic around them a b it later on.
The fuel tanks got set aside, need two clunks. The bottom stringers are in, the side stringers are drying. The tailwheel block and servo hatch is drying, the servo hatch will get glassed so as to be strong enough to support some weight if it needs it for balanceing. Next up is to install the wing and stab tubes, then the legs and associated hardware. The kit calls for balsa blocking around the main legs but I will do it the same as I did mine by wrapping .060 plastic around them a b it later on.
Last edited by acerc; 02-26-2015 at 10:48 AM.
02-26-2015, 11:22 AM
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Robert, is there going to be any room to get to the rudder and elevator servos? When I program the radio and center them to mount the servo horns. A small hatch if needed. What do think?
Jeff
Jeff
02-26-2015, 11:51 AM
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That would be the afore mentioned servo hatch that gets glassed for strength. The servo arms will be as centered as possible when you receive it, minor adjustments can be made via the Tx.
02-26-2015, 12:15 PM
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The arrows depict the hatch in the pic. The kit call's for it being screwed down and covered up, I guess if necessary it could be cut open. But that just does not work for me so it is removable via one screw. It gets glassed with the glass sagging to imitate the fabric but it is strong enough to add weight into for balancing, and both yours and mine will need a little weight back there with the Valach up front.