Bulldog build
03-25-2015, 03:40 PM
#327
Member
My Feedback: (25)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: McDonough,
GA
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Robert what glue are you using on the motor box? Every plane I've built has a box that protrudes back into the fuse a bit and never glued straight onto the firewall. Just want to use what others guys are when I build mine here soon.
Chad
Chad
03-25-2015, 05:04 PM
#328
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
Posts: 8,131
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I use Titebond II almost exclusively. I use epoxy, system Three's Gel-Majik, for hardwood to hardwood if it is not a tight fit. I am currently using Zap's Z-POXY finishing resin for laminating glass.
03-25-2015, 09:12 PM
#330
That titebond is a very good glue... I use to use the elmer's carpenter's wood glue, then I switch to using just thick / thin CA, and 15 or 30 epoxy... my 1/4 cub is build entirely of CA, and epoxy where needed for additional strength... I particularly like the loctite professional brand CA, which has a slower set than the zap med / thick CA, which allows the CA to soak into the wood fibers... I don't use any CA kicker, never saw a need for it.
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 03-25-2015 at 09:19 PM.
03-26-2015, 05:49 AM
#332
I used aluminum angle line in corners of the box with 8/32 nuts and bolts both in the firewall and into motor box / also v-poxy wood dowels around motor box where ever u can get into box for strength ! worked well on 38 % Eagle with 3-w 100!! Great build man
03-26-2015, 07:42 AM
#333
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
Posts: 8,131
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
The way that engine box attaches to the the firewall with mortise and tenon joints, plus the triangle stock around the inside / outside corners, then fiberglassed over... I don't think you'll have to worry about the box to firewall coming loose... I'd be looking at the firewall to fuse attachment first, but from the looks of the design, that is probably well thought out as well.
That titebond is a very good glue... I use to use the elmer's carpenter's wood glue, then I switch to using just thick / thin CA, and 15 or 30 epoxy... my 1/4 cub is build entirely of CA, and epoxy where needed for additional strength... I particularly like the loctite professional brand CA, which has a slower set than the zap med / thick CA, which allows the CA to soak into the wood fibers... I don't use any CA kicker, never saw a need for it.
John M,
That titebond is a very good glue... I use to use the elmer's carpenter's wood glue, then I switch to using just thick / thin CA, and 15 or 30 epoxy... my 1/4 cub is build entirely of CA, and epoxy where needed for additional strength... I particularly like the loctite professional brand CA, which has a slower set than the zap med / thick CA, which allows the CA to soak into the wood fibers... I don't use any CA kicker, never saw a need for it.
John M,
03-26-2015, 11:30 AM
#335
Yeah, you can't go wrong with the aliphatic wood glues... I use to thin it and brush it over the balsa sheeting, then lightly sanded smooth when it was dry... iron on covering stuck to it like sh** to a blanket, but it also made the soft balsa(s) rigid, and you could poke a hole through it easily without the covering on, so I always choose some medium to hard density balsa for the sheeting.
There's tremendous strength in overlapping joints, just the triangle stock alone, the firewall would fail before those joints around that box gave way.... add fiberglass to the corners, that engines not going anywhere !
What are you going to do inside aft of the firewall (where the tanks are), glass and resin as well?... I usually fuel proof the tank area and then wrap the tank in some of that super absorbing pad material you can get from the auto parts store for managing oil / fluid spills... I cut it into strips and wrap the tank with it, so if there are any leaks it shouldn't get past into the next compartment... I had a fuel tank neck split on me one time, and glow fuel soaked the entire inside of the fuse on a sig kadet... to add insult to injury, I was using an electric fuel pump to fill the tank and didn't realize it until I thought to myself, this is taking a long time to fill... then I saw the fuel, what a mess !!
John M,
There's tremendous strength in overlapping joints, just the triangle stock alone, the firewall would fail before those joints around that box gave way.... add fiberglass to the corners, that engines not going anywhere !
What are you going to do inside aft of the firewall (where the tanks are), glass and resin as well?... I usually fuel proof the tank area and then wrap the tank in some of that super absorbing pad material you can get from the auto parts store for managing oil / fluid spills... I cut it into strips and wrap the tank with it, so if there are any leaks it shouldn't get past into the next compartment... I had a fuel tank neck split on me one time, and glow fuel soaked the entire inside of the fuse on a sig kadet... to add insult to injury, I was using an electric fuel pump to fill the tank and didn't realize it until I thought to myself, this is taking a long time to fill... then I saw the fuel, what a mess !!
John M,
03-26-2015, 01:07 PM
#336
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
Posts: 8,131
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I finally finished the yards chores, then went to town with the wife. While out I picked up some more hard wood and upon return finished wrapping the nose. All the corners have been reinforced, tomorrow I will sand it somewhat uniform and get it glassed.
03-26-2015, 03:41 PM
#342
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
Posts: 8,131
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
The wife went home early so I have nothing but time. lol. The engine box has been coated and glass added to the corners. This is probably the strongest box I have ever built, mine is the same but without the glass.
03-28-2015, 06:49 PM
#346
Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Western New York
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am so impressed with this build that I thought I would ask a few questions about powering the electronics. What i would like to know is what type and size of battery would you use to power the receiver and servos? I am thinking about using a 2s LIPO battery on my six channel planes.... standard servos. This build deserves the most reliable and proven components so I though I would bring my questions here.
Also, I would like to use an SBEC and would really like to hear what you folks use and prefer. I think I would feel confident using a 5 amp SBEC, but Im not sure if that is overkill.
Thanks!
Great build!! Cant wait to see more!
Also, I would like to use an SBEC and would really like to hear what you folks use and prefer. I think I would feel confident using a 5 amp SBEC, but Im not sure if that is overkill.
Thanks!
Great build!! Cant wait to see more!
03-29-2015, 12:52 PM
#349
Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Western New York
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am leaning toward a 2s LIPO for the battery and a 5 or 10 amp SBEC for regulation.
Do you have preferences? Even your favorite servo manufacturer would be great for me to know.
Thanks!
Last edited by ArcadeAir; 03-29-2015 at 12:55 PM. Reason: TYPO
