Bulldog build
#376
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They function the about same as a glow engine and have about the same abilities. A gallon of gas would take something like 25oz of oil at 20% and the glowplug ignites the oil of which ignites the gas.
Those versions keep all the reasons I went to gas, cleanliness, mileage, and to some degree cost.
Those versions keep all the reasons I went to gas, cleanliness, mileage, and to some degree cost.
#377
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They function the about same as a glow engine and have about the same abilities. A gallon of gas would take something like 25oz of oil at 20% and the glowplug ignites the oil of which ignites the gas.
Those versions keep all the reasons I went to gas, cleanliness, mileage, and to some degree cost.
Those versions keep all the reasons I went to gas, cleanliness, mileage, and to some degree cost.
#380
All there were when I got into this hobby was very low mah NiCd's, recharge after each flight. Then the NiCd's started having higher mah's and felt like the greatest thing since sliced bread. Then the NiMh's really boosted the flying time so it seemed until the LiFe, LiIon, and LiPo's. I have found the LiIon to be my favorite. Yes, they do need regulated for most components but the flight time's are unreal compared to days of old. Same goes for all the components, check out the load rating of an old servo compared to todays standard. Some talk of the good ole day's of yester year but to me the good ole day's are here and now. Forty to fifty years ago we had very little choice, today the choice's are limitless and far less expensive.
Absolutely, if we had the radio gear we have to day forty years ago, would have made the hobby less frustrating to say the least... but that's the game of progress, would be interesting to see what the next forty years will bring to the hobby... I may see 15-20 of those forty years.
The memory issues with the old nicads, I had a transmitter go flat on me on the first take off... lucky I looked down and saw he indicator needle in the red... cycled them a couple times, and back in business.. talk about pulling the short straw... those days were a gamble, with unknown odds, lol.
I like the A123 Life... 2 cells in series for the receiver paks...double up on that; 2x2 in parallel for the ignition... 5 sub c 2500-3000mah NMhi cells for the servo buss... no regulators needed, the less devices daisy chained together, the happier I am... I use those servo buss's from servo city, nothing fancy, but neat and tidy.
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 04-03-2015 at 12:28 PM.
#381
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The tanks have been plumbed and routed, ignition re-installed, fuel port supports, and working on the tray area for the batteries and power board. Jeff is going to be removing the batteries for charging, but, the weight is needed behind the seat. So I am going to make this a sliding tray with a set of miniature drawer slides.
Last edited by acerc; 03-30-2015 at 04:36 PM.
#383
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The tanks have been plumbed and routed, ignition re-installed, fuel port supports, and working on the tray area for the batteries and power board. Jeff is going to be removing the batteries for charging, but, the weight is needed behind the seat. So I am going to make this a sliding tray with a set of miniature drawer slides.
Love your attention to detail.....
If you were going 'more scale' in the build would you have the fuel ports installed in the fuselage area below the cabane structure instead of on the sides as you're doing here?
Bill
#384
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In the picture below I placed an arrow to the fuel cap. That is center of the fuse top between the cabane support uprights. The distance between the top wing and the fuse is about 3 inches on the model.
Last edited by acerc; 03-31-2015 at 08:54 AM.
#386
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Thanks Jeff, it is very smooth in operation having roller bearings. Thursday when I get paid I will get some ply to finish it up. Then mount the batteries and power board. After that it is time for some sanding and final assembly work prior to covering. I won't be here at the shop next week, have to ready the house for a wedding. But the following week I will be back at it.
On your instrument panel, how do you plan on powering it? I need to make accommodations for it.
On your instrument panel, how do you plan on powering it? I need to make accommodations for it.
#388
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Congratulations on your kids wedding. Hope you all have a Blessed day.
I will power up the dash on a separate system from the rest of the plane. Simple leds with a small battery for power. Now how I mount the leds to the back of the dash and still again mount it to the plane is something I'm working on. I will keep it simple. It will be prewired when I send it. The build is turning out great!! Your Awesome, Dude.
Jeff
I will power up the dash on a separate system from the rest of the plane. Simple leds with a small battery for power. Now how I mount the leds to the back of the dash and still again mount it to the plane is something I'm working on. I will keep it simple. It will be prewired when I send it. The build is turning out great!! Your Awesome, Dude.
Jeff
#389
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Congratulations on your kids wedding. Hope you all have a Blessed day.
I will power up the dash on a separate system from the rest of the plane. Simple leds with a small battery for power. Now how I mount the leds to the back of the dash and still again mount it to the plane is something I'm working on. I will keep it simple. It will be prewired when I send it. The build is turning out great!! Your Awesome, Dude.
Jeff
I will power up the dash on a separate system from the rest of the plane. Simple leds with a small battery for power. Now how I mount the leds to the back of the dash and still again mount it to the plane is something I'm working on. I will keep it simple. It will be prewired when I send it. The build is turning out great!! Your Awesome, Dude.
Jeff
#394
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Here is how I make gear covers.
#1- Template made of artist paper.
#2- Template with the gear wires marked.
#3- Plastic cut to template and marked.
#4- Plastic clamped on with the marks lined up.
#5- Using the heat gun with the reducing tip start heat the L/E plastic right at the wire. Gently pull away from the wire as the plastic reaches a malleable state pull the plastic out and around the gear wire to a 90°.
#6- Front at 90°.
#7- Get creative in holding the plastic in place for heating the rear.
#8- Using something to push the plastic without burning ones finger's off, I use a T sander, heat and bend the plastic around the rear gear leg until it points forward.
#9- Remove the plastic from the rear and put the front in between the leg and support, the bottom will need trimming for the support wire. Then heat enough to relax for reattaching the rear. Then hook the rear back on, I clamp the pieces together, and heat the front until the bend is straight and relaxed.
#10- The gear cover!
#1- Template made of artist paper.
#2- Template with the gear wires marked.
#3- Plastic cut to template and marked.
#4- Plastic clamped on with the marks lined up.
#5- Using the heat gun with the reducing tip start heat the L/E plastic right at the wire. Gently pull away from the wire as the plastic reaches a malleable state pull the plastic out and around the gear wire to a 90°.
#6- Front at 90°.
#7- Get creative in holding the plastic in place for heating the rear.
#8- Using something to push the plastic without burning ones finger's off, I use a T sander, heat and bend the plastic around the rear gear leg until it points forward.
#9- Remove the plastic from the rear and put the front in between the leg and support, the bottom will need trimming for the support wire. Then heat enough to relax for reattaching the rear. Then hook the rear back on, I clamp the pieces together, and heat the front until the bend is straight and relaxed.
#10- The gear cover!
#399
I did something similar with some 1/8" thick polypropylene plastic sheet, but it wasn't for an aircraft... I made a flight box out of it, or party... I enclosed one of those black n decker plastic step stools with the integral tool caddy in it (hard to find theses days)... I added compartments to stow my electric starter / battery, and filled in a couple areas for a volt meter and my ACE R/C pro power panel (its ancient now, but still works).... I used two pieces of oak as a heat shield and spaced them apart so there was a small gap... then I put the heat gun on hi and ran it up and down the gap between the oak... that super heated the polypropylene just in that thin line area where the gap was... then once it was soft enough, I just bent the polypropylene along that softened thin line.... it worked out nicely... I made that flight box, oh must be getting on 15 or so years now... I still use the same flight box today... that polypropylene probably will out last me .
John M,
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 04-02-2015 at 10:59 AM.