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H9 Pawnee 33% build.

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Old 12-26-2015, 05:30 PM
  #26  
rampage-1
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Yep, just cheap pot metal
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Old 12-27-2015, 03:20 AM
  #27  
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Hi, I found what it was to break the end off. The bracket that the strut end fits in had not been counter sunk so the small cap screw would not stop the strut from moving up. That is why the end broke off and it is dir-cast aluminium. So now I have to try and make up some thing to fit inside the strut and re bolt it back on.

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Old 12-27-2015, 05:49 AM
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http://www.horizonhobby.com/strut-se...-arf-han519006 Strut Set: 1/3 Scale Pawnee ARF (HAN519006)


Not cheap but at least you would have some spares

HOL10SAVE - coupon saves you 10% on all purchases

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Old 12-28-2015, 02:28 AM
  #29  
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this is what I did with the drill my self counter-sunk the hole in the bracket.Tomorrow I will see if I will be sent a strut set or have to buy a set. If I have to buy I will smash it all up and put it in the rubbish bin because I am sick of this crap plane. Why have these planes not checked or something done to fix the problems and issues??
John
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Old 01-01-2016, 02:32 AM
  #30  
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Hi I have to wait 2 weeks to find out if I receive a strut for nothing or have to pay.
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Old 01-01-2016, 02:35 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by rampage-1 View Post
http://www.horizonhobby.com/strut-se...-arf-han519006 Strut Set: 1/3 Scale Pawnee ARF (HAN519006)


Not cheap but at least you would have some spares

HOL10SAVE - coupon saves you 10% on all purchases
I found out if I have to buy it will cost me about $120 AUD to have a set from the US. When it's not my problem.
Anyway don't know any thing until the 11th of Jan.
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Old 01-01-2016, 02:35 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by rampage-1 View Post
http://www.horizonhobby.com/strut-se...-arf-han519006 Strut Set: 1/3 Scale Pawnee ARF (HAN519006)


Not cheap but at least you would have some spares

HOL10SAVE - coupon saves you 10% on all purchases
I found out if I have to buy it will cost me about $120 AUD to have a set from the US. When it's not my problem.
Anyway don't know any thing until the 11th of Jan.
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Old 01-01-2016, 04:48 AM
  #33  
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Can't the local Hobby Shop have them put it on one of their shipments. What a rip
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Old 01-08-2016, 10:58 PM
  #34  
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All good now rampage-1.

They came to the party and gave me a set of struts for free. So they should. Anyway i made sure there was no problem this time checking the bracket and filing it down so it had room to move forward and back. All done now and added some nav lights not that I will fly it at night. Just looks more real.
I will as soon as the weather is good enough to fly her I will let you know how it went.
Cheers
john.
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Old 01-09-2016, 09:20 AM
  #35  
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That's great news.
I think you will like the way the Pawnee fly's
Don't fly it in a cross wind on the first flight. 15 to 20mph down the runway is ok,less flaps you have to use,just no cross winds on the 1st flight.
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Old 01-10-2016, 12:31 PM
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The weather here in the next few days is very hot and no cover at my club field. and windy about 25nots I seen on the weather chart.

So it will be next week maybe Saturday or Sunday. Will let you know how I go.
John
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Old 06-20-2017, 04:43 PM
  #37  
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Hi Guy's,

Real sorry I didn't get back to let you know how my Pawnee went. It flew really well, no trim changes but short time in the air. Took it up 2 times with the battery change. Not enough time in the air so I have changed to a DA200L second hand engine. The guy I bought it off was really helpful. He had sent it to DA here in Australia who pulled it down and changed all the gaskets and what ever needed was done. The engine was not used much and runs like a clock. I did also install 2 canisters I bought from Japan and heads here in Australia. AS yet it has not been in the air with this engine. But soon I hope.
I do have picture of the work I did to install the can's.
Ok Take care
john
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Old 10-18-2018, 07:34 PM
  #38  
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just about have mine ready for flight. got it off a bloke down south as a going concern.

Nav lights, strobes and landing lights fitted. Aces of Iron pilot. DLE-111 in the nose. Powerbox RRS and dual LiFe packs. blah blah






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Old 01-21-2019, 01:57 PM
  #39  
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Update. Took the Pawnee out for its test / certification flight on Sunday.Litany of dramas that ultimately led to me bouncing the Pawnee really hard and doing damage. Tyre spun off, thats not a biggie.

Engine was running very rich, new engine and was using my evolution 33 mix which is 20% mineral oil. Far too much oil for the DLE111. ?I nearly aborted take off as I got half way down the strip and it was still popping and farting then came on song as I went though half throttle.

Interestingly once I rotated and eased off on the back pressure it came down and bounced! Had to haul it back off and hold back pressure till I was at height.

Took off but due to far too much aileron through I decided to land on 1st cct, did not give myself time to set up and consquently bounced hard after it sank far quicker than I was expecting. Ran out of elevator.

Drama list:
  • I let the organiser of the club I went to know I would be doing the test/certification flights to which he promptly broadcast to in a email to the who club my intent which added pressure and made my a bit anxious. I'm a nevous flyer at the best of times.
  • I slept very badly the night before, I was very tired and not at all sharp whcih is not the best for flying let alone doing test flights.
  • I relied far too heavily on the advice of previous owner of how he had set up the model with throws and CG. I did do a CG check and thought I had it right . . .
  • ailerons throws were far too much. In flight they wee extremely sensitive to the point that a slight touch and it wanted to do a sharp roll. I have not detuned them from 100% to 65% and gone from 25% expo to 40% expo
  • Not enough elevator through. It had 50%, I have increased it to 65%
  • CG I had though was set at around 9 inches as per the manual. Subsequent research suggests it should be 10 to 10-1/2 inches from the leading edge tip at the root which is right on the spar and 30% MAC!! Funny that. When I rechecked CG after the hard landing it was very nose down. I will reset it to 10 inches and use the vanessa rig. 9 inches is about 20% MAC. No wonder I ran out of elevator.
  • the 2 x 50cc (1.5L) fuel tanks are over the spar so should not have affected CG too much. The smoke tank only had a very small amount of fluid in it.
  • Fuel mix in future will be 30% mineral oil and later flights will switch to synthetic oil once it is bedded in.
Damage list:
  • Undercarriage plate pulled out on starboard side. Hysol and some trianglular hardwood stock will sort that.
  • Port vertical former that is beside the shock absorber split down the middle - ply doubler will fix that.
  • small amount of damage to the shock absorber carry through box - this will be reinforced with 3/16 ply front and rear
  • Spar carry through box while not damaged appears to be weak and some of the glue around it has let go so will beef it up with triangluar hardwood stock.
Reading through threads on other forums the shock absorber carry through box is a known weak spot with many having had damage the same or worse than mine.

Some photos:

Pawnee sitting in the pits before the flight.

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Sketch I did to understand the forces and vectors involved that caused the damage. Helped me to understnad the structure and what I need to do to reinforce the areas but without causing issues elsewhere. Areas to be fixed based on a snip from the manual. Red circles show the damage areas but you can't see the UC carry though plate which pulled away.

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Front battery plate which had to be removed to gain access to the shock absorber carry through box. These batteries are secondary functions. There are two larger LiION 7.4V 3600mAh packs for the twin Rxrs and Powerbox.

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Shock absorber carry through box. Clips shown hold the fuel lines in place. As you can see it fared quite well.

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Vertical former on port side that runs between the fuz side wall and the shock absorber carry though box. This split stright through the middle and absorbed most of the impact forces. It will need a ply doubler so alas won't be a point to absorb forces if I dumb thumb it again.

Impact was on starbord wheel and shows how force vectors travel through the structure till they are absorbed.

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This [photo shows the rear of the shock absorber carry though box. As you can see it has fared well buit did start to buckle towards the top. I'll hysol 3/16 ply front and rear.

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Undercarraige mounting plate. This pulled away on the starboard side which is the side th model bounced on and spun the tyre off. I will Hysol it back in and triangluar hardood stock to beef it up.

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Lastly the 50cc fuel tanks. That's 3Litres of petrol and smoke fluid!!

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Old 01-21-2019, 02:33 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by rampage-1 View Post
Hi John
Your picture looks just like the way mine came in. And you are correct, you have to be very careful when you you try to iron it down.I have ironed the whole plane twice so far. My ailerons were the big problem they did not have the correct movement, only about half from what the manual gives for low and high rate. The pin hinges were factory set to far in. I ended up cutting them off and redrilling for new Robart to correct the problem.I had to add support to the frame in a few areas, especially in the rear where the battery's are located. I am using a DLE111 so I need weight in the rear battery box. The struts had to be re-built. I ended up lining the interior wall with thin mylar sheeting so the springs would not rub. Also I installed a steel tube over the screws that hold the top struts in. The threads started cutting into the top strut bracket. I also added a spacer to kept the struts centered in place at the top.Next I added some wood to make the strut bracket a little stronger. I also added screws around the side windows a few guys have had them blow off due to the glue job is very poor. They do not sell doors or windows in the spare parts area.Also I replaced the tail wheel. The tire that came with the kit was way to soft. I set the CG at 10
inches

.

What is the trick to get the shocks apart? I can see the shaft unscrewed from the plunger but was not able to get it to undo, the whole plunger keeps turning in the cylinder.
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Old 01-21-2019, 03:39 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by piperjon View Post
Hi Rampage-1.

I read the page display http://www.rcaerotowing.com/wp-conte...-in-Flight.pdf and if you see the CG set up what he tell us. That Hangar 9recommendation is 10.5 in. backfrom the wing’s leading edge. Yet in my manual it tells you 81/2 to 9-inch. I have set mine up to 8 3/4" and just having the nose just dropping a little. So who is right????????????
I used 6S 5000mah Li-po batteries which are 1" inch from the inside fire wall (motor Box) i can move the batteries as I have 2 together to give me 12 Sell. So I don't know what to do now??
John

H9 33% Pawnee Tug Conversion - ScaleSoaring.com replaced rcareotowing
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Old 01-21-2019, 04:04 PM
  #42  
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FWIW I have a new H9 Pawnee 33% that I was contracted to build for a guy. After 160 hours and all kinds of MODS, thanks to the guys at Rcareotowing now scalesoaring.com forum. Unfortunately, His health has deteriorated and is unable to fly RC planes now. He has purchased 7 other planes that I built for him over the years so I can't say too much after talking to his wife.
So now, I will be listing the plane for sale. The plane has about everything including the kitchen sink.

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Old 01-21-2019, 04:13 PM
  #43  
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I've read all those threads.
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Old 01-21-2019, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by planenutzz View Post
What is the trick to get the shocks apart? I can see the shaft unscrewed from the plunger but was not able to get it to undo, the whole plunger keeps turning in the cylinder.
No trick. This is one I was going to mod by lining the side walls with Teflon lining. This helps to keep the metal to metal from Gaulding and reduces the noise of the spring on the piston walls



No trick here is one that I just took apart.
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Old 01-21-2019, 04:41 PM
  #45  
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I was wanting to pull them apart to check spring and was also considering beefing up the springs to the McMaster Carr ones but the bit the shaft threads into keeps spinning and I can not un do the shaft.
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Old 01-22-2019, 01:32 PM
  #46  
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Got a maqte of mine in the US ordering me a set of the beefed up compression springs from McMaster Carr as they won't ship overseas.
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Old 01-31-2019, 02:44 PM
  #47  
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ok progress.
- worked out how to pull the shocks apart, end bit that attached to the trunion unscews! Mine had a rubber grommet which hid that feature. All good.
- all structural repiars and reinforcing is completed.
- Did not need to go overboard, along the sides where the UC ply plate is I simply did a fillt of Hysol which works very well.
- US shocks carry though box has been beefed up with 3/16 ply fron, rear and top and trainagluar gussets at each end
- The new springs are on the way, hopefully not frozen!
- I got the longer 5mm bolts from a local fasteners specialist not far from home
- KS brass tubing obtained yesteday from a LHS to sleeve all the pivot points including the top shock attachement points. $51 AUD for the brass!!

Once I get the springs I will recover the bottom and fit all the bits back into it, do a new CG check based on 10" from the root LE where it mates at the fuz and do the next test flights.

cheers
me

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