Stiltman0287

Hey guys. I'm new to RC Universe. I have a Super Tigre S3000 that runs great, but just won't flip start to save it's life. I've tried and tried before til my arm was tired (probably almost 20 mins of flipping), and then hook up the 120v electric drill with my homemade drill starter bit, and BOOM, it starts right up. Sometimes after 5 seconds or so of cranking, sometimes immediately. I would love to be able to hand start it if there is any way of doing it that I haven't tried cus the electric drill isn't mobile, although I do have a good inverter. Still an inverter is no good if you can't bring your truck to the water lol. I have tried all the suggestions on flip starting, including the priming til the squish sound, bouncing the prop backwards, choking, etc. Maybe my low end adjustment is off? It seems to have good compression. Everyone else seems to have no problem flipping their Super Tigre 3000 so any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

do335a

I've had several of the large ST engines - 2500 & 3000 with never a starting problem.

Although they run better on the OS 7D carb than the stock ST carb. that has not been an issue for starting. And in all cases my starter is attached to my arm.

You'll also find that the reverse flip method is very safe and reliable. As the engine fires, the prop and your hand are moving away from each other. You also draw you hand out of the prop disc as you do this.

The engines are really easy to start when primed. With the needle valve opened, it's easy to do this by opening up the throttle and closing off the carb opening while flipping the prop forward a couple of times. Then close the throttle and flip the prop forward a couple of more times. That way you will get fuel into the combustion chamber.

Next be certain that the fuel is there, the engine isn't flooded and that it's ready to start. Do this by attaching your battery to the glow plug. You need a well charged battery. The glow plug should glow quite bright orange - not a dull, wimpy red since that won't work. The throttle should be closed to idle or just a tad above and absolutely not wide open. Grab the prop with your hand so that it can't move on its own. Crank over the engine. Do this several times. You will notice that every time you reach top dead centre, there is ignition and quite a bump of the prop in your hand. Every time, the bump gets a little weaker. You will soon learn which feel indicates the right amount of bump. You don't want the engine to kick back on you when starting and this will prevent it.

And now we're ready. Remember, your throttle is at idle. Do not attempt to start at a high throttle setting. Move the prop backwards to compression. Just let your hand drop on the prop - no great effort required - and the engine will be off and running in the forward direction if you've done it all correctly.

Takes longer to explain than to do it. If it doesn't run, you've done something wrong. The needle setting will not prevent it from starting since you primed the cylinder with fuel. It will run on that for a second or two. If your needle valve is closed, the engine will stop. It will start again with another prime but that's all you'll get. You must have the needle valve open to keep running.

Just to make it run from a start, the needle setting is not entirely critical. you can be way off. The engine will still start fine and run, it just won't run well. Adjust if necessary at that point.

Stiltman0287

Thanks for your help. Can you elaborate on which bump usually feels right?

Stiltman0287

And yes it runs perfectly fine just having trouble flip starting. I haven't done what you just said tho. I have never tried holding the prop and spinning it to feel the bumps

do335a

You don't hold and spin. You grab a blade with your entire hand and rotate it through compression. Don't let go. You grab tightly because there will be a healthy kick from ignition. If the engine tried to start then, your hand would be whacked so badly that you'd have the bejeebers scared out of you.

On the next rotation, the bump will be a bit milder. On the third, it will be even milder still. There will not be much kick back. It all depends on your particular engine and how much fuel is in the initial prime. You may find that two rotations are sufficient. You may need three. But none is looking for a sore hand!

I've never failed to have a hand start on at least the second rear flip with any of my large ST engines. This was especially good when using a three bladed prop since you've less room for error with that extra blade.

To give you an idea of how much power you are dealing with here, appreciate this. I put my ST 60cc twin on the bench for its initial runs and seating of the rings. Since it is alternate firing, you get a compression every 1/2 rotation of the prop, so you'd better not get your hand in the way, especially if it kicks back.

Being already familiar with the reverse starting method from my 2500/3000 size engines, I proceeded with great confidence. Swinging about a 24 inch prop, the engine started on the first flip. Instantly, and I mean instantly, effortlessly, it pulled over the heavily weighted bench. Good thing that I was not immediately in front of the prop when I started.

Anyway, back to your engine. If you can absolutely not start it by hand but can with an electric starter. Perhaps the compression is not as good as you believe it to be. This will happen when an engine is worn out. Starts with high turnover from a starter and not by single flip with a hand.

Once you get this sorted out, remember to run the proper fuel - low nitro and about 12% oil as suggested in the instructions. It will run with more oil but not well and extremely poorly with too much nitro.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I've found the easiest way to start the big S/T's is by "bumping" it backwards as well. My issue was having them start backward otherwise!

Stiltman0287

I'm running my own concoction. VP Racing Methanol with a 10:1 ratio (10 %) of Klotz castor oil. I started out using Klotz Super Techniplate for the first gallon, but this last gallon I used about 60 % Klotz Castor and 40 % Techniplate. I buy the VP Racing Methanol from a Race fuel supplier store / gas station near Hershey PA.

Stiltman0287

How do I go about rebuilding the top end? Do I need to just replace the rings, or piston too? And what website can I get those parts from?

Stiltman0287

Just took it out today and tried all the suggestions. I choked it for 10 spins, then turned it over slow 3 times with the glow starter on, then gave it 3 tries by bouncing it backwards, nothing. Then choked it for 3 more turns and turned it over slow twice with the glow starter on and gave it a bounce backwards Wala! It ran great for a whole tank. Unfortunately the weather took a turn for the worst so had to call it but it was a successful run! No starter motor needed this time! Thank you guys for your help. You can forget my question about a rebuild. Just takes a little work to flip it.

kmeyers

I use a 12 inch piece of 3/8 heater hose with 16 inches of wooden dowel rod in it (no rod out prop end). I bump it backwards after the prime. All it takes is little roll off compression, easy peasy. No work at all, less effort than a .40 size. Yes with strong current 1.5 volts bright red and OS F plug for me ST 3250.

Stiltman0287

Yea I had an OS F plug that came with the engine when I bought it on eBay. I took it out and replaced it with an OS Type 8. It was running crappy on the 8 so I put the OS F back in and it definitely runs better. I also noticed the F is longer and has a bigger stronger coil. That's probably why it works better with the large size of these engines. I'm using this engine on a homemade boogie board airboat by the way. I bet that sets me apart from you other ST owners pretty well!

Stiltman0287

I use a AA battery holder that I bought at RadioShack and converted to run in parallel instead of series and long wires with alligator clips. I clip the negative to the fin on the head and the positive to the post of the glow plug. I use rechargeable batteries in the highest mAh I can get. It works great

Rubbernecker

My Feedback: (22)

I prime my 3000 till it sounds wet, close the throttle, flip it through 3 or 4 times, hook the glow plug up and grab the spinner and twist it backwards and 9 out of 10 times by the 3rd attempt, she is running. Have over 100 hours in a Stinger 120. Running a perry carb, 2.5 % nitro and 15% oil.

John

kmeyers

John I have a friend that does the same with his Moki 1.35. I however am very comfortable with my "chicken stick".

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

I always found my big ST engines needed to be very will primed in order to hand start and flipping them backwards against compression was all that was necessary to fire them up. A high quality hot glow plug is also a necessity.

Stiltman0287

I just use a thick landscaping glove. If you're flipping it backwards it's not very likely to hit your fingers anyway. And I took the airboat out for a grass only no water run yesterday and it took a little longer this time to get it to flip start but still only a couple minutes. Probably cus I didn't stick to the routine that I know works fast. I was a little clumsy with it. Choked it for 11 instead of 10 turns, then glow starter slow turned it 3 turns, and gave it a try to no avail, then choked it some more and did 2 glow starter slow turns and gave it a try and it started. It kept trying to start before that but kept stopping after a little spudder. Guess I should just stick to the plan!

Stiltman0287

Are these engines supposed to have an exhaust gasket? I made one out of gasket material but not sure if it's helping or hurting the tank pressure. Seems to be leaking pressure from the gasket
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do335a

The point of a gasket is to seal. So if your gasket is leaking, there is something wrong.

I've always made an exhaust gasket for my large ST engines - small ones too. There has never been a gasket supplied with any of them.

Usually the gasket gets soaked with oil from the exhaust. However, there is no oil drip and no leak.

The reason that I stick in the gasket is that the surfaces of the exhaust port and the exhaust manifold or muffler are never a perfect match.

Stiltman0287

So i have a question about making your own glow fuel. Ive been making my own essentially FAI fuel. Methanol with 10% klotz castor. But i recently bought a quart of 80% Nitromethane and 20% methanol premix from a glow fuel supply website. FHS i believe its called. My question is: since its only 80% nitro that i will be adding when mixing the glow fuel, does that mean i have to add 20 % more than the 5% level of nitro i desire? So 25% nitro premix, 10% castor oil, and 65% methanol?

gmeyers

I have a couple of Supertigres 3250 , 3000, and found the best way to start them is first to choke them or prime through the carb with a healthy shot of fuel. Then flip the prop a couple of times to pass the fuel through the crankcase then put the glow starter on the plug and with a firm grip on the prop turn it over til you feel it try to fire. When you feel that solid hit you can then flip the prop (I flip it backwards ) When it has glowing plug, fuel and air it pretty much has to start or at least try to start. Good Luck.

gmeyers

I have been wanting to add REAL castor oil to my Glow Fuel but SIG or Tower Hobbies no longer has it - anybody know where to get real castor these days?? Or is the castor used in ladies cosmetics the same as that used in our fuel ?? Synthetic or Klotz doesn't work as well in the Steel/Cast Iron engines as it flashes off during combustion and doesn't leave lubricating residue.

Stiltman0287

They sell Klotz Castor oil. That's real 100% Castor. It's made specifically for RC glow engines

gmeyers

Klotz is synthetic - not real - just checked their site - I think they might have a real castor but I can't find it on their site, ebay or hobby sites yet - still looking
I have a lot of RC engines that are Steel/Cast Iron metallurgy so I prefer to use the real castor like SIG sold until recently. The Klotz synthetic is great for the Chrome/aluminum or other metals.

Stiltman0287

Klotz Super Techniplate is synthetic. Klotz Castor is Castor oil

Stiltman0287

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