BUGGS50

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I'm looking for a ESM DC-3. Can anybody tell me where you can buy one? Also does anybody out there have one? I'd like too see pictures and a report on how it fly's.

Thanks

AncientCityFlyer

Buggs, I've got an ESM C-47. Bought it from ARF-Pro in Venice, Fla. Here's the link

http://www.arfpromodelplanes.com/ind...emart&Itemid=1

I purchased mine in early Nov. Been slowley chugg'n away at it ever since. It is a very well built ARF as most go. The fuse is all fiberglass and done very nicely and pretty much to scale. The center wing section is really beefed up for the L.G. and also done in fiberglass. KMP used to offer a composite wing set but it's no longer available as far as I know and ESM doesn't offer it. However the built-up wings are very nice. The only issue I've had with this arf is the tailwheel. It's a flimsy skinny wire P.O.S. ordered a tail wheel from Robart ( it's for the Ziroli DC-3) it will be a little on the large size for this bird but it's the only thing I've found thats compatable. The other issue is the rudder control rod. It has a very samll tiller arm soldered onto it in provide linkage for the tail wheel steering. Again a real P.O.S. I did a mod that works very well and not tooo dificult to do. I'm at the point of engine installation. I wavered between a couple of RCV .91CD's & Saito .91's. Finally went with the Saito's. You are limited to a 13" dia. prop due the the proximity of the fuse. I did purchase the retracts, and they are very nice and well built. Look to be very sturdy. As with 99% of all ARF's the instructions are the pits. If you've got 3-4 arf's under your belt you'll be alright. As mentioned I bought the military C-47, done in british color scheme. I was Flt. Eng on an AC-47 and I'm doing mine exactly as the bird I flew on. So it was totally repainted. About how well it flies? Myself, I don't know yet but there is another thread on the DC-3 / C-47 here on RCU http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_66..._5/key_/tm.htm and http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_70...tm.htm#8202217
I'm about a month away from my maiden. If you have any questions let me know. Mike (ACF)

BUGGS50

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Hi Mike,

Thanks for the reply, I called arfpromodelplanes and he is out of stock till April. I also found out TBM sell's them but they are out of stock till late March You don't know of any other place? I see you found one of my old post. I wanted one back then and I'm going to finally buy one for the 2011 season. That is if I can find one. Did I read you right? You repainted your's? Did you have to sand it down? I would like to hear about it and maybe a picture. I always liked the DC-3 .

Thanks

Bill (buggs)

AncientCityFlyer

Bill, The camo paint scheme was done well, just not the same as I needed. After the colors are applied at the factory they clear coat it in flat clear. I needed to remove the decals so I started out by sanding them with 400 wet/dry. It took forever to get one removed. The next thing I did was place a damp towel over a decal for about 10 minutes, and that was the trick. The decal just peeled off, which told me the clear coat was not very thick. After removing the decals I lightly sanded everything with wet 400 just to be sure the surface had enough "grip" to accept the new paint. It took some searching to find the right colors of paint for what I wanted. I ended up using Rustolium Flat Camo. Found it at Home Depot. Only problem was it came in spray cans. I knew I couldn't get the detail and color seperation I needed with spray cans, so I took one of the cans of paint and turned it up-side-down, placed a weight on the can and let the propellant dissipate. The first attempt didn't go as well as I expected. It seems a vast amount of the propellant goes into saturation with paint. After the first draw down on the propellant I drilled a small hole in the side of the can near the top. So far so good. I drilled a second hole in the oppisite side of the can to allow an easy flow of paint out of the can into a container. Here's where I found out about the propellant in saturation. As I began to pour the paint out, it all fizzed up as it went into the container. What a mess. Anyway you can use spray paint using this method only you need to shake the can about 4 different times and expell the propellant out each time, by then it will just pour out without fizzing up. Just be sure to do a final shake to mix everything up before pouring it into your container. I use a Pashae airbrush to do the painting. Two coats for each color then 3 coats of flat clear coat. I was going to use LusterKote flat clear, but no matter what I did it always comes out a satin finish. So I ended up using Testors Clear Flat Dull Coat. Works perfect but probably not very fuel proof. I did do the belly with LusteKote to be sure that part of the fuse was fuel-proof, then wet sanded it with wet 600. I'll get some pics off shortly. My flash card has gone walk-about, so I'll need to get a new one.

I checked VQ Warbirds and they seem to have them in stock. Give them a try. Mike

http://www.vqwarbirds.com/product_in...ff341ae187245f

hyflyer9

Try troy built models.com see link's

Civilian scheme [link=http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/ESMDC31-104-SILVER.html]troy built models DC3[/link]

Camo scheme [link=http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/ESMDC3111-104-CAMO.html]troy built models DC3[/link]

BUGGS50

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Thank's hyflyer9 but they are out of stock also. However I did order one from Mike's suggestion vqwarbirds the plane was $389, retacts $200, shipping $155 for a total $744. It's the Delta version but I think I'll repaint mine into a silver and white military transport. Thanks Mike, I'd like to keep in touch and see pictures of yours and when mine gets here I'm sure I will have some questions.

Thank's again

Bill

AncientCityFlyer

Bill, Glad to hear you located one. Feel free to contact me any time, I'm subscribed to this thread so I'll know when you post something. I'll be glad to walk you thru the tail wheel & rudder set-ups. Mike

BUGGS50

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Hi Mike,

Well, the plane is ordered for just a few hours and I'm thinking engines & servos, From what I been reading 91s would be the engine size, but I have no idea on servo's. I know you decided on saito 91's but have you decided on servo's? I have a Futaba 10c transmitter and all kinds of standared servo's.

Bill

AncientCityFlyer

Bill, I will be using Futaba S3010 servo's for everything except the throttle servo's which will be 2 Hitec HS 81 micro servo's. You need 4 servo's for the flaps ( 1 in each wing and 2 in the center section) 2 for the aileron's, 2 for the elevators and 1 for the rudder (pull-pull) and a Futaba S3004 for the retracts. I'll be flying with a Futaba 7C 2.4. This ARF can get a bit expensive with addition equipment. I'm also installing a "Twin-Sync" to sync the engines. The best feature with it, is if you should loose an engine in flight the Twin-Sync will throttle back the good engine to idle. You can then regain power by moving the throttle stick back to idle then back up to regain power to the good engine. I've read that this plane does very well with an engine out. I just want a little fail-safe built in. Also going with an on-board glo-driver for both engines tied into the Twin-Sync module. Don't want a flame-out at reduced throttle as I will be mounting the Saitos inverted. Both of these are available through TBM. One other thing, the retract set is good but the air control valve is just a regular valve, in that the gear snaps up & down rather quickly. I doesn't slam but I wanted a more scale look so I purchased a Robart Variable rate control valve. It allows a controlled slower up & down rate.

RE the engines. I was thinking of a couple of 15cc gaser but they require a minimum 14" dia. prop which won't fit. I've had very good luck with Saito's so that why I chose them.
Again, when you get your plane let me know and I'll provide some insite to the Instructions????? if that's what you'd call them. Mike

mobyal

AncientCityFlyer

Buggs, have you received your DC-3 yet? Mike

BUGGS50

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Hi Mike,

No not yet. When I ordered it I was told it would be shipped within 72 hours,, About 72 hours later I received a e-mail saying it was in the back corner of the warehouse and it would be shipped within the next 3 days or so. That was 5 days ago. Still waiting.

Bill

AncientCityFlyer

Buggs, hope you get it soon. It's a pain aiting for something you really want to get into. Mike

BUGGS50

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Hi Mike,

E-mailed vQ this morning to see if it's been shipped and he replied shipped 2/28/11 should arrive 3/3/11, tomorrow.

Do ypu have any pictures of yours yet?

Bill

BUGGS50

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Hi Mike,

I received my plane, I had a couple of friends from our club down last night and they agree with me that this appears to be a nice plane. I have the Delta paint scheme and it is nice, I do have a question for you. did the aluminum hub wheels come with your retracts?

Thanks

Bill

AncientCityFlyer

Bill, yes the aluminum wheel hubs were included with my retracts. I'm building mine as sale as possible so I changed out the wheels and hubs for a more scale look. The one's that came with the retracts were too small in diameter and width. I got a new flash card so I'll be posting some pictures soon. I was hoping to be nearly finished with C-47 by now but work has kept me working late the last two weeks and now I just received my new G.P. WACO YMF arf. So many planes and so little time, oh my. Mike

BUGGS50

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Mike, For some reason wheels didn't come with my retracts. I e-mailed VQ and they are checking into it. But if I read you right, your saying that the wheels that come with the retracts are not scale? or the wheels that come with the plane? The wheels that came with the plane I'd never use but from the pictures the retract wheels look pretty nice. Looking forward to seeing some pictures.

Thanks

Bill

AncientCityFlyer

Bill, the kit came with fixed L.G. and included some cheap foam wheels, about 4" in dia. The retract kit came with everything neede to install and operate the gear and it did include the aluminum wheel hubs. They are very nice looking. Just too skinny and not quite big enough dia. for me. Here are some of the pic's. I'll do 2 post's as I think RCU will only let me up-load a given amount. The first few show the L.G. details and my wheel change the other's are just shots under construction. I've been delayed from working on the C-47 due to work load, but still plugg'n away. Mike

AncientCityFlyer

Bill, here's the second batch. Mike

BUGGS50

My Feedback: (1)

WOW, NICE JOB Makes me want to do something with mine. Where did you get the pilots? and where did you get the wheels? I havent started mine yet, I'm trying to get a L4 grasshopper off the table first.


Bill

AncientCityFlyer

Bill, the pilots are Williams Bros. 1/8th scale military pilots. The wheels are Du-Bro 4.5" balloon tires. They are a pretty snug fit between the oleo struts, in fact I needed to sand off the raised lettering on the side walls. to allow them to rotate freely. Something to tell you in advance about the assembly. The so-called manual is very un-clear about setting up the wing attachments. The kit comes with 2 rib templates. The large one is for the wings and the small one is for the horizontal stab. The rib templates are used to align the 2 anti-rotation dowels in the wing and the center wing section and same for the horizontal stab. The instructions look like they are telling you to glue it in place (not). The instructions indicate assembling the entire wing as a single unit. Sorry but I don't have a vehicle that will transport something that long. If you look at the 3rd pic in the first set of photos you'll see 2 black circles with socket head machine screws in them, against the outer root ribe of the center wing section. I made mine so the wings seperate from the center section for transport. I'll give you in depth info as how I did it. Not too complicated, just time consuming so as the keep everything aligned properly. Mike

AncientCityFlyer

Bill, just for FYI Here's a pic of the ESM retracts the way they are supposed to come. http://www.arfpromodelplanes.com/ind...emart&Itemid=1 I does show the wheels. Mike

BUGGS50

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Mike,

I been out of town since Wednesday. I did receive an e-mail from VQ that they had my wheels and will be sending them out. Tomas from VQ seems like an honest person, not worried at all. Still trying to get a different plane finished and off the table so I can bring up the DC3. My original plan was to remove all decals and repaint the top white but it looks so nice i might fly it this way for 1 year. Your plane looks super and once I get going on mine I knw I will have some questions.

Thanks

Bill

BUGGS50

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Hi Mike,

Well how did she fly?, Never did get mine done. I plan to do it this winter, Had a lot of bad luck this summer with my other twins both went in. one was engine out on takeoff and the other was bad elevator servo. Still had alot of fun this summer but it's time to get back on the C47. I'm going to try your method of removing the decals. Does the towel need to be really wet?

Thanks

Bill

AncientCityFlyer

Bill, well guess what....I didn't even finish mine yet. Just a bunch of other things came up through the the year and the C-47 just sat on the bench. I got to start installing the twin sync on the engines but just ran out of time and energy on it. I too am planning on starting back on it in the winter. I had a odd problem with the retracts. Got them installed and working great. I increased the size of the air tank and was able to get about 10-12 cycles out of a single air charge, plus it would not loose air for days. Well one day I disconnected the quick disconnects to do something, then reconnected them. Cycled the gear and nothing...tried everything. even removed the gear. It would work great out of the airframe. But once back in it would not. Fanlly discoveder it was one on the brass quick disconnects was squeezing the "O" ring and causing it to stop the air flow. I've since changed over the Serria quick disconnects. Anyway that's my story and I'm sicking to it. Keep me posted or your progess. Mike ps, about removing the decals. Yes in regards to the wet towel. I let it soak for for about 5 minutes per dacal plus I used an exato knife to sldie under the decal edge to help start lifting it off. It's a pain-in-the-ars but it does help remove them.