Is there going to be a build thread on the P-47?
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Is there going to be a build thread on the P-47?
I ve been thinking about it . The TopFlite P-47 is a great plane . I heard that it is a great flyer and even a better build than the P-51 Giant . This will be a two person build , I ll do the building and covering and my fellow club member will do installation work along with some detail . we re planning on puting in a Saito 450 , 75cc of raw power . very exciting build . If the build works out to-gether well be moveing on to bigger and better things like a LANCASTER , lots of plans . But , one thing at a time
Already have looked at that site , I m sure they will be out with something soon
What size chart tape are you using for the panel lines? Is it 1/64? Also what size brass tube are you using for the hot rivet technique? I have heard 1/16 and 1/8. What is closest to scale?
Here's a question for all you guys that have built this P-51.
When you were installing the stabilizer onto the fuse, did you worry about the incidence of the stab or did you just sit it on the saddle of the fuse. I am currently building one also and I am at that point of attaching the stab and notice the plans show O degrees of incidence on the stab.
P-40 Brotherhood #69
This thread is so big and I am not going to go back through 30+ pages of reading to look up my concern so I will ask it here.
What have you guys heard concerning wing failures on the TF Giant P-51? What mods have been proposed to the wing center section to correct any weakness? I have heard of inflight failures and am wondering whether to cut my wing apart now and make mods or just go with what is in the stock build. My P-51 is one of the early "B" kits and not the ARF. My engine is a ZDZ 60 which makes me concerned about stress in positive G maneuvers. Speedy
30 pages ................................ thats nothing................ the P-47 has 130+
Michel, Thanks for ALL your help! LOL!
I have not heard of any wing failures at this point. Although I have heard of a couple of P-47's that may have had that problem, but I think that is when guys have put to much positive G force on the airframe. This is not an areobatic aircraft or beefed up dive bomber.
From what I can see already in the build the Wing is built very well. At this point I am not having any second thoughts on its structural intigrity.
Hope this helps ease your mind a bit. I would not be overly concerned.
Lets go Flyin &....Keep\'em in the air!!
I get the point .
Thanks for your input. We have a guy in our club that moved here from Colorado and he says most of the wing failures were due to fractures and stress created by hard landings and not necessarily from high G's. He flew his Giant P-51 with 6 other club members and they acumulated a lot of time on this airframe. He is using the DA-50 and I radared him last fall at 127 mph in SLF. He turned me on to the SIERRA retracts and we are gonna have some fun this spring. I have the ZDZ 60 all tucked inside the cowl with no bulges or blisters in the cowl. I have attached a picture of Chet with his P-51. His model has well over 300 sorties on it. Chet has also flown the real thing! He said that the P-51 he flew had a placard on the dash that stated the ailerons were not effective below 117 knots! I have flown a lot of R/C warbirds but like Chet for my spotter and coach. Especially on final approach.
I wonder if the wing failure problems - if there is a problem - might be indirectly caused by the weak shear webs in the landing gear mount area. Here's a link to an explanation if you haven't already seen it.
Tony, A big "thank you" is in order here. It is important to help a fellow modeler out and give reference and helpful information when a question such as this is brought up. Structural failures usually end up in a pile of junk at the end of the runway and that is a shame when it can be avoided. I did question the kit instructions on the grain of the shear webbing and did make mine run vertically to the main spar. Shear webbing grain should NEVER be longitudinal with the spar. Great work Tony. Thank you for taking the time to look up the past posts by gary9648 for me. The pictures of the modifications to the spar are excellent and the description of what was done and accomplished is very well thought out. Chit-chat is fine but usefull information like this is priceless. GREATLY appreciated. Thanks again! Speedy
here are some pics of my build. This is the early kit version and is the "B" model. Engine ZDZ 60 is not mounted in these pics but it has been fitted and completely fits inside the cowl with no bulges or blisters. Custom muffler to acheive this. I took a side Bisson muffler and used just the can and made my own side header. I have a guy at work that can really weld aluminum. I will send pics of installation if wanted. Sierra mains and Robart tailwheel. She will be finished in "Blue Nosed *******s of Bodney markings with D-Day stripes and drop tanks. This is being built to be a flying machine. Speedy
Here's a few more. Can't upload to many pics at once.
Last 2 pics for now.
In case you guy's have missed it, here is an excellent build on the T/F 1/5 Mustang. Ed will appreciate this one. You may need an online translator to read the text, but worth the effort.
Interesting... I beleive that build is in Brazil if I recall the customer name correctly.
The first model was covered in litho plate. The more detailed airframe is Flite-Metal.
I found it interesting that instead of butt seaming panels he chose to lay down chart
pak as a panel line and left it on the surface after he applied the Flite-Metal instead
of following the recommended process. He ended up with a "raised" panel line, not
a recessed one.
His finish sanding left his P-51 looking like the real thing : )
Thanks for the heads up on the thread.
Some of the early TF GS ARFs had a balsa dihedral brace and some of these wings did fail.....folded in the middle so to speak. I don't know when but TP did start putting a solid pine dihedral brace in the ARF box that cured the problem. MY TF GS P-51 ARF wing is quite strong(has pine brace) and holds up well to way more than scale loads on loop pull outs and firm landings.
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Turbine Waiver Fixed & Rotary
I am putting a DL 50 in mine. For 370.00 It will give me plenty of extra change to get other goodies for my P-51. Like Keleo exhaust
The DL-50 is a great choice. Me and another guy in our club bought DL's and I don't care what the critics say they actually run better than the competitors. Prop for prop and running the same fuel from the same can. I was impressed to say the least. I had the ZDZ 60 in another model and it is a real stump puller and it does have an upper hand on the DL50 for brute power. You will be very happy with the DL-50. Run a 22 x 10 Menz S or NX prop on it and your P-51 will get up and boogie! It would probably be a good idea to get at least 2-3 gallons of fuel on a test stand before putting it in your P-51 since you do not want a fresh engine in a warbird. You will want that engine running like a clock with no suprises on your maiden flight. The only issue I see with the Keleo exhaust is that it is above the exhaust port and all the exhaust residue and spent oil will find it's way back into your engine when not in use. I would aslo think that the Keleo exhaust would be prone to the evils of vibration but I may be wrong since I have never talked to anyone that is using them. There is a guy that advertises scale non-functional exhaust for the TF 1/5 P-51 right here in the RCU "For Sale" section. I bought a set and they are very nice. Not as nice as the Keleo system but nice.
Hey Speedy & Flyboy,
The DL50 is a great choice....a few of the guys at the field have them and they are running great!!
I have one that I bought from Bob at DL USA last year and it went into my TF GS P51, but the project was taking a bit longer than I expected and I really wanted to get it running and fly. So I bought a WH Edge 540T and put it in that aircraft for this spring.....can't wait!!..
I'll be buying another DL for the P51, I'm hoping to have it in the air buy no later than August...crossing my fingers.....LOL
BTW, be careful on running these engines on a test stand......make sure the test stand is not a hard mount so the vibration has someplace to disapate otherwise you could have quite a problem on your hands. I have seen a few that guys had run a stand and it was not a pretty site. I'll be running mine right on the airframe for a little break in time....that will give me a chance to see what starts to vibrate loose also......LOL
I saw someplace where a fella was selling a pretty neat stand for running gas engines that had all the vibration damping built into it.....just can't remember where I saw it. OLD AGE you know!!!!......
Lets us know how things are coming!
Lets go Flyin &....Keep\'em in the air!!
Nice thread guys, keep it running....[8D][8D][8D]
Jan, reading through your painting probs, and having a little experience in painting aluminum for the big ARF's (mainly produced by boeing ), I think i might know what your problem is...
Aluminim needs to be prepped to recieve paint, or it will not adhere properly. In the big boys we use a process called conversion coating, that basically is applying a chromate based product (alodine) to the surface after degreasing it with a wipe solvent or some type of cleaner that will remove dust and grease from the surface.... This would be the best way to do it, but since most hobbyists dont have access to these nice goodies, I will recommend you the following:
1. wipe the area to be painted with alcohol..
2. mask the area or put the stencil of the figure you wish to paint in place, and gently rub the metal with 220 grit sandpaper till you can see you have an etched (scratched) surface...wipe with alcohol again..
3 You do not need to prime, so go ahead and apply your coat of paint directly to the metal.
4 Dont wait for the paint to dry, while it it is still soft (not totally dried) remove the masking tape or stencil...
5 vouilla, you have a good paint job......... It will not have the best adherence to the surface, but for a model it will do fine..
Try this recommendation with regular kitchen aluminum foil, and you will see it really not that hard....
Hope this helps
Painting Flite-Metal presents no real issue if you were to use a 3M Scotch Brite
pad to micro scuff the aluminum surface...which is usually already done by the
majority of our customers during the natural aluminum finishing process...or it
occurs when the entire surface is wet sanded with 320 and above wet ~ dry.
Aerosol metal primer is readily available if you somehow are experiencing an
issue which is usually more related to having not cleaned the aluminum surface
prior to painting.
Just a thought...