doublebs

sweet,i'm glad to see more interest here. i know that dragon is very busy, me as well. but i have recieved more stuff!!! i will post some pics later tonight.

Chris Smith

My Feedback: (2)

I'd like to know what brand folks recommend for a 5 inch spinner?
Thanks,
Chris

S HARRIS

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Chris That spinner is to big for your BB!!!!!!LOL

doublebs

hi chris, i just got a tru turn spinner. it's real nice. from texas with duty it came to 235 cad.i will post pix.
berrick

doublebs

there seems to be a problem with the server for uploading pix. i will try tomorrow.

dragonfly24_24

i am going to be buying the dave brown 5" parabolic spinner.

GreaTOne_65

Hi guys, I put a Dave Brown, on my TF Mustang, real nice spinner, and looks dead on right for the plane.

Cobra1

My Feedback: (42)

What size prop do you plan to run on your Mustang?

dragonfly24_24

20x10 is what i am going to start with.

acepilot121

lets see those pics doublebs (i cant wait)
... oh ya MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

THESCALEMAN

hi,

any of you guys thought of using a saito 220?.....know of anyone using one in this kit?

cheers

dave

dragonfly24_24

i think the saito 220 is a little under power it calls for a 2.10 2 stroke i think in order to put a 4 stroke on it, you would have to go up to about 2.80 or better to get good performance out of the plane.

yarom

My Feedback: (82)

Quick question - what's the purpose of these bolts holding the firewall?

They seem to be adding a significant amount of weight at the front, weight that could be saved by just gluing the firewall.

I fly a bunch of DA-50s on aerobatic planes and never had a vibration issue that necessited any sort of vibration mount. Gasers do vibrate, but no ecessively and certainly less than some of the big 2 cycle and 4 cycle glow engines (the Saito 220 and the Moki 2.10 come to mind).

If you end up nose heavy, you could consider doing without them bolts and the second firewall, saving a good 6+ Oz. at the nose. There are places that manufacture DA standoffs to measure (Pogue research).

unojrcan

My Feedback: (111)

Does anyone know where I can get a set of exhaust for my 1/5 scale P-51 at a decent price? if so, please email me at [email protected] and let me know.... thanks,,,, JR

Snaer810

Good morning all,

Just got my GS TF P51 kit for Xmas.........Merry Xmas to me!!!... I have been wanting to build a P51 for a long time. Thanks to the wife I now have one. Hope she knows what she's got herself into....[sm=50_50.gif]

I am leaning more and more to the DA50 with the reduction drive from WPD. Looks like a great package that will be able to swing a scale 4-bladed prop. Not sure about their constant speed package yet....Sounds like it may need some more testing. I'll be heading for Toledo this year to see it, hope they show up.

Does anyone know if the TF ARF GS P51 full fiberglass cowl will fit the full build kit? Also I thought I had seen on here a thread for installing a set of fully operational inner gear doors. Anyone have any info on this or seen it?

I have been following the builds with doublebs and dragonfly, great looking builds guys. Well once I get everything underway here I'll start posting pic's and info if anyone is interested. Got to make room for this monster first....LOL....

__________________________________________________ _______________________________________________

Let those engines roar!

dant-RCU

My Feedback: (3)

Don't know about the ARF full cowl but Fiberglass Specialties makes one that does fit. I got one for my TF P-51. Cost $30.00 at a local IMAA meet and I think the mail order price is $35.00. Also picked up the scoop.

Dan

unojrcan

My Feedback: (111)

Thanks Dan ....

I also have a Brand New W3 Made in Germany 21/10 wood prop that I want to sale or trade for a smaller one. Email if interested [email protected]

Snaer810

Thanks Dan for the information.. I'll check it out. Do they have a on line sight?

Talk to you soon



Mike Snaer

Darrell B.

http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/

Snaer810

Darrell,

Thanks very much for the info.


By the way (for everyone), I found a parts mismatch in size on the Stab. for the TF GS P51D Kit. The P51GS01 laser cut sheet that holds the TE Stab parts is the wrong thickness (in my kit anyway). The sheet was supposed to be 3/16" and mine was 1/4". Checked every thing 4 times and then called Great Planes. Tech support indicated that it was supposed to 3/16" and nothing could be found on any tech notice of change....[>:]

He indicated it might have slip through on this lot of kits. Everyone might want to double check this when building the kit. It can make a difference when the fitting of the Stab to the Fin and Fuse. We cerntainly don't need those headachs.

(2) 3/16" TE were to be glued together to make up a 3/8" wide TE, could have cut mine own out of 1/8" and added it to the 1/4" I already have, but thought there going to send out the right sheet might as well wait and do it via the plans.

Let me know if anyone came across this problem.
Well on to the Fin and Rudder while I wait for the part.....


Mike Snaer

Mikel-t

My Feedback: (12)

DragonFly,I see your wing tips..very nice!. Can someone give me their opinion on this idea: " I have the TF-ARF...So, I'm thinking, what if I make a cast of the ARF tips and then using a release-agent make (2) fiberglass wingtips?... REASON: Everything I carve comes-out as an Ashtray[]


Mikel-T

Snaer810

Mikel-T,

Sounds like it might work, but I would be concerned if that release agent doesn't work in (1) spot on your ARF you could be making a new wing tip for the ARF......[]


Let me know how things come out.


Mike Snaer

dragonfly24_24

when you try to make the fiberglass tips make sure that the surface is very clean and then spray your mold release but dont spray to much. you will have inabitions in the surface. i make molded plastic parts all day long and know what to much mold release will do.

dragonfly24_24

ok i worked on my plane a little more. i shaped the vert stab tip and i glued and rough shaped the rear turtle deck. the turtlw deck is going to be a pain in the but to get shaped the right way.

Mikel-t

My Feedback: (12)

Drago, I find that if you make lite pencil lines every inch or so along the Right & Left sides of the Fuse where the T-Deck is built. then you can connect them so that cross-over the T-deck ( use a piece of bendable plastic ) it's much, much easier to eyeball any imperfections. I also add a Centerline down the T-deck. If after sanding I find I'm a little thin in any areas I mix-up a batch of Micro-Balloons with Epoxy/resin until it looks like spackle. This stuff dries quickly it sands very,very nice. It also is more resistant to dings than Balsa Filler. FWIW

Mikel-T