BigBoy99

The wings are monted, to make the N-Struts and fit them in. They are now very scale and you have the possibility,
to adjust them, just like the origin.
1)At first I had to fix the wings with 2 helping struts
2)The threads are dipped in fluid wax and will be epoxied in with a alupowder-epoxi mixture.
3)The ftiting on the wing
4)N-struts ready to adapt




Regards
Bernie

redcesar

It all looking verry good Bernie but what do you mean with nr. 2, what is the intention of fluid wax and alupowder-epoxi mixture. Is it the intention that it wil be turnable in the alupowder-epoxi?

Regards,
Ruud.

P.S. do not drink to much wine during building otherwise your building struts became slant, ha ha ha.

BigBoy99

Hi Ruud and others,

the thread of the steel bow is dipped in to fluidwax, that I can turn it in and out to adjust the N-Struts.
With the Alu-powder the epoxi gets nearly the solidness of steel.

The glass of wine is always present (only in the evening )

Now one N-Strut is ready,it looks more scale now, than the old version, but it needs a whole day to make, I had to wait for the postman with the Alu-powder.

Here the result:




Regards

Bernie

Stickbuilder

Big Boy,

Those struts look great. I'm doing much the same thing for my little one (1/5th scale). With these struts and the adjustable horizontal stabilizer and a more scale set of main gear, I think that I will be more happy than with any other one that I have built. Thank you for sharing all the pictures.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

BigBoy99

Hi guys,

today my Waco YMF-5 could smell for first time the fresh air of the outside, I´m on a point, where Peter Barth in his building instructions means,
she´sready!!!!!! Now are the small fine things to do....puuuh...I hate painting.
See self, pictures are telling more than words:



Regards
Bernie

ByLoudDesign

LOOKING GOOD!

BigBoy99

And here the next series:

ByLoudDesign

OK, I got to ask this question to get all the various fairings, panels and soforth did you have to make plugs, molds and that whole process. I am trying to get 1/4 scale Curtiss Goshawk plans finished and would like to have parts like I see on your BEAUFIFULLY build A/C. I have worked a LOT in verious forms of composites, molds from 33' sail boats to dolphin nose appratus, so not afraid of the process but if there is a better way! I'd like to take the shortest route between two points if I can. Thanks

BigBoy99

Hi Charles,

which parts do you mean?


Bernie

skylarkmk1

Bernie,

Glad to see it assembled, looking very good. With that engine up front, you just might be able to ride it.

BLD,

Go back through this thread and look and read how Bernie did his panels and farings. Many of the panels are styrene plastic (Evergreen is one brand, usually found in the model train section of the LHS) overlayed on a thin ply or balsa skin, hinges can be simulated by plastic rod segments.

ByLoudDesign

The fuselage item and the various fairing I see at the wing and stabilizers.

redcesar

Looking verry nice Bernie and so far as it is, you have build it in a record time. You started in may, and yet so far with all the scale details, that is not bad.

You said "I hate painting" I have the same with sanding, at last the balsa dust sitting everywhere.

Regards,

Ruud.

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

WOW! BigBoy that's amazing! "applause"

V.

BigBoy99

@BLD

Charles, the fairings in the front of the fuse are all selfmade in a plastic, called here in germany ABS, I don´t know the name in USA.
The fairings transition fuse-wing and at the stab are fiberglass, they where ready in the kit of Peter Barth.
Hope, I could help you


Regards
Bernie

ByLoudDesign

The ABS is the same here I believe, was it vacuume bag or just hot formed (pulled) against a mold or the fuselage it's self.

BigBoy99

Ruud, it was only possible with the support of my whife, thanks to her, she´s got a lot of understanding for my hobby.
Some days I was 8h and more in the cellar. The family circle could be often disturbed because of this.

Now the next works are trim flap at the rudder, cockpit, a little cablework in the wings, making additionally ribs in the propellerstream
for rib stitching. The pump fore the smoker is yet not installed, it will be done later, when the Lady was first time in the air.

You will see it here!


Bernie

BigBoy99

Charles,

It where all even plates, this material is very easy to form, only spheric forming is difficult to do. I´d try it, but the result was not so good.
At the fuse of the Waco there are not many spheric formed parts. At the placements, where it was necessary, I had to
reduce the size of the fairing plates. Same like at the origin machine, at all it´s good, in 1/3 size to make it like the origin,
even scale!!! At a lot of things I considered, how did the constructor of the real Waco made it, and it was a big help for me,
to have a detailed photo CD.


Bernie

skylarkmk1

Bernie,

Hopefully these picture of the rudder trim tab will help. From YMF Classic NC 14081.

ByLoudDesign

You have done some very lovely work! Thank for all the input. I had not thought of forming ABS plastic sheets before. It sure will save time and expence over the mold methode!

BigBoy99

Thanks John,

these parts are in the kit....compliment to Peter Barth.
Problem is, this flap is hinged in the top and on the bottom. When I make it befor covering the stab, it´s very difficult to
cover in the edges ad corner. When I make it after covering, how can I make the upper and lower hinges ?
I´ve chosen, to make normal plastic hinges in the leading edge, not really scale.


Bernie

skylarkmk1

Bernie,

One way to have the tab pivot in a scale fashion is to use a long hinge wire that can be inserted from the bottom of the rudder and go all the way through the tab and into the upper hinge position. Bend a little hook in the bottom end, put a little grove in the bottom of the rudder for the hook and glue in place. A little filler, touch of paint and it will be invisible.

BigBoy99

That is it,

thanks for the idea, a very good tip [sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]

Bernie

skylarkmk1

Bernie,

You are welcome. Sometimes the grey matter inside this bald head of mine comes up with a good idea.[X(] As the discussion of whether or not to put the tab on with offset on a model has come up on the other WACO YMF thread, the general feeling is that, mount it straight as the servo trim will take care of any trim needed.

On the full size, the tab is set for the normal cruise speed to lighten or eliminate the load the pilot has to apply to the rudder pedals with his feet. Having to apply pressure to one pedal for a couple of hours of cross country flying can be tiring and lead to cramps in the leg.

BigBoy99

Hi guys,

today i followed the advice of John and made the trim flap on the rudder:




Regards
Bernie

skylarkmk1

Bernie,

Well done, and very quickly as well. The rudder and trim tab will be much easier to cover now