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  1. #301

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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Hi guys,

    this week I was busy with the fairings of the landing gear, at the pics 1-3 you can see the wooden underconstruction of the fairing.

    Next two is paste in the fairings, next is paste in the transitions fuse-gear, than a few pics of transition fuse-wings.

    I´m planning, to make the front half covering with ABS(Plastic) plates, and the rear half conventional cover with fabric.

    That´s origin like the photo-set I get, I think it´s the Super-Version of the Waco.

    Next week is delivery term of the engine.......finally! My greatest sorrow is, that I´m to heavy on the tail because of my modications.

    Without engine now I have 2377g load on the tail-wheel. Today I placed some weights in the front of the plane with exactly the weight

    of the engine including ignition, and the balancer says 2012g! I´m happy

    On the last pic you can see the whole fuselage, the lighter is to compare the size of the plane.


    @redcesar

    when you next time travel to Austria, visit me, I´m living only 30km distance to the border to Austria!



    Regards

    Bernie
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    Waco Brotherhood #63

  2. #302

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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Hi all,

    today was christmas, eastern and birthday together, the engine arrived finally.

    I ordered a 215, but Airworld couldn´t deliver it, so they made me the offer, to take the 250 for 150€ more,

    and I did it, I know, endless power, but I will risk it.


    Regards
    Bernie
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    Waco Brotherhood #63

  3. #303
    Alexzzz's Avatar
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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Yeah, definetely a very nice engine

    Greetz.
    TX: T14MZ. Flying: Giant Scale 3D.

  4. #304
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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Nice looking engine Bernie, congrats!
    Are you put it first on a test stand to get familiar with the engine?

    A friend of my has bought the same engine so over about a month I can look for it in real.

    Regards,
    Cesar.

    PS I tested yesterday the modified landing gear and it go's a lot bether less jumpy on the landings.

  5. #305

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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Bernie.your gonna love that engine. You will find yourself starting it on days you can't or won't be flying just to hear the thing run. I have the 215 in my Waco ( way over kil power) but you just fly with 1/3 power and everything is fine. You can almost do verticals with it wound up all the way. My friend Kris in Holland has just ordered the same motor. I'm now thinking about the 250 for my Big Stearman project I'm building now.
    Anyhow Bernie........CONGRATS!!!!! You are now a happy camper as we say on this side of the pond.

    Steve
    Let\'\'s be open minded.... But not so open that your brain falls out
    Waco Brotherhood #46
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  6. #306

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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Hi guys,

    today I made the brackets for the cowling, they are made of 2X3mm plywood, 5 pieces around the cowl. Why 5? The engine has 5 cylinders,

    and I thought it looks better for the symetry. At first I thought, that´s a little bit too soft, but glued together, they are very stabil.

    see herefore the first 3 pics, at the next 3 pics you can see the cowl fixed on the brackets. Now I have a leeway of 2 cm, to adjust the cooling outlet.

    The last pic is a front view with the cowl.

    @redcesar

    Yes Ruud, I will test the engine before it will be ready installed. It needs 4-5 hours, until the engine is ready to fly, I´ll try, to make a video of it.

    @SoCalSal

    That´s the reason, because I took the RCS, you don´t must fly with full power, it will be very silent......but with enough reserve


    Regards

    Bernie
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    Waco Brotherhood #63

  7. #307

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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Hi all,

    here an update of building the Waco, the rear fuselage is covered with oratex. A wonderful material, easy to work with it.
    From the cockpit forward the fuse is covered with ABS(polystyrol) plates. I have to drill a lot of holes for the screws.
    Yesterday I recieved my mounting dome for the engine, a friend of me made it for me, thanks to him, it looks good!. Now I could adapt it to the firewall.
    I built in a side trust uf 2,5° and down trust of 2°, recommended of Peter Barth for the RCS 250.
    Now the engine has a distance firewall-propellerplate of 25cm(10 inches) which I need for the cowling, and I´m glad now, to have enough load in the
    tail. The balancer say´s now a load of 1960 gramm on the tail wheel! [sm=thumbs_up.gif]


    Regards
    Bernie
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    Waco Brotherhood #63

  8. #308
    redcesar's Avatar
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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Hi Bernie

    Nice dome you have designed Bernie . I have send the pics to my friend here in Rotterdam, he recieves his Moki this week and build it on a Stearman. Maybe a good idea for him also.

    Are you put the plywood first on the fuse and then the abs plates or only the abs plates?

    Yesterday I had a few landings on the spot. I became now a litle bit more familliar with the Waco and it is indeed so as described, you can land the Waco with a litle bit headwind on a few metres. It works not every time but it still go's better.

    Regards,
    Cesar.

  9. #309

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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Hi Ruud,

    I use only ABS plates, 0,75mm thick. They are fixed with PU glue, and will be screwed by 1,4x10 mm screws......you know,
    there are a lot of...puuuh! For this I glued a lot Spruce pieces in th fuse, to have grip with the screws.
    In the front the ABS will be only screwed, by this way I have access to the area behind the firewall.

    In the upper front area I had to make some strengthenings, I could´nt believe, only 2 10x12mm spruce stringers and in the
    lower front area 4mm plywood should hold a 15 HP engine?

    When I´m ready with the fuse side and upper section, I will make perhaps the modification of the gear suspension,
    and then cover the lower fuse section also with ABS.

    Regards
    Bernie
    Waco Brotherhood #63

  10. #310

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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    I WANT ONE OF THOSE....make mine for the 215 O.K. I'll pay in U.S. or Euros, or Beer!!!!! Just let me know..

    Steve
    Let\'\'s be open minded.... But not so open that your brain falls out
    Waco Brotherhood #46
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  11. #311
    Alexzzz's Avatar
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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    ORIGINAL: SoCalSal

    I WANT ONE OF THOSE....make mine for the 215 O.K. I'll pay in U.S. or Euros, or Beer!!!!! Just let me know..

    Steve
    You could participate in the auction of this one; http://cgi.ebay.de/Grossmodell-Waco-...QQcmdZViewItem


    TX: T14MZ. Flying: Giant Scale 3D.

  12. #312

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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Alexzz...I want the engine mount that Bernie had made for his 250 radial.not a Waco, I have one of those.
    Thanks
    Steve
    Let\'\'s be open minded.... But not so open that your brain falls out
    Waco Brotherhood #46
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  13. #313
    Alexzzz's Avatar
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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Ahhhhh ok, I thought the whole plane
    TX: T14MZ. Flying: Giant Scale 3D.

  14. #314
    redcesar's Avatar
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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau


    ORIGINAL: BigBoy99

    Hi Ruud,

    I use only ABS plates, 0,75mm thick. They are fixed with PU glue, and will be screwed by 1,4x10 mm screws......you know,
    there are a lot of...puuuh! For this I glued a lot Spruce pieces in th fuse, to have grip with the screws.
    In the front the ABS will be only screwed, by this way I have access to the area behind the firewall.

    In the upper front area I had to make some strengthenings, I could´nt believe, only 2 10x12mm spruce stringers and in the
    lower front area 4mm plywood should hold a 15 HP engine?
    Hi Bernie,

    Maybe an idea, if you place the plywood first (not overlapping each other) you give the fuse in the front a lot more strength and you have a solid base to put the ABS plates on.

    When i have done the job (see page 47) I put double sided adhesive foil on the the ABS plates and put them on the plywood and then placed the screws in place like you said.

    Regards,

    Ruud.






  15. #315

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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Hi Steve,

    I didn´t made the dome by my self, a friend of me made it for me. For this dome he needs a raw aluminum
    block of 3 kg!!! He made a second for his P 47 1/4,4, but a little bit longer. Because of this reason I could get
    the first version.
    He is an exellent model builder and I can learn a lot of from him. If You want, I will ask him to make a dome for you?
    But it´s not cheap, these parts have it´s price!

    See here a few pictures of his work, the pics of the landing gear are from his P47.


    Regards
    Bernie
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    Waco Brotherhood #63

  16. #316

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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Hi, I would love to have one of them. But your friend may not have the time to do such a job again. I would be happy to pay for one if I knew how much it would cost. But if he does not have time I can understand that. I can make a mounting ring for my 215 out of plywood just like I did on my Waco.they don't look as nice but they work.

    Thanks
    Steve
    Let\'\'s be open minded.... But not so open that your brain falls out
    Waco Brotherhood #46
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  17. #317

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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Hi guys,
    it´s a fewdays a go, I wrote something here. I hope it´s interesting for you all.....the resonance could be better.
    This days I made the hatch behind the cockpit, the motor installing is finished and the firewall is epoxied in,
    and the fairings at the tailplane are ready.

    @steve
    It looks not good for your mount dome, my friend is very busy, sorry.
    What a Stearman you are Building? (Size, Constructor etc.)


    Regards
    Bernie
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    Waco Brotherhood #63

  18. #318

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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Hello to all,

    The RCS 250 has a little cooling problem, so say other pilots with this engine on board.
    Because of this reason I made some baffles of alu tin, 0,3mm strong and formed it to a
    half taper. The airflow between the cylinders goes a lot unused through the cowl, and now
    this space is closed, the air is flowing very near to the cylinders.
    see self:




    Regards
    Bernie
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    Waco Brotherhood #63

  19. #319
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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Most excellent! It is fun to watch your work, storing all this in a brain cell that I hope don't die!
    Kits: F11C-2 1:4, Do-24T 1:8, P-3 1:10, Howard 500 1:5, XFY-1 1:4, SR-9 1:4, V-22 1:6, B-25J 1:4, F+W C3603 1:5, B314 1:11, DHC-4 1:10

  20. #320
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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Hi Bernie,

    It is the first time I see such solution for more efective radial engine cooling and I think it is verry effective. Have you seen that somewhere in real?

    Regards,
    Cesar.

  21. #321
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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Bernie,

    Looking Good!! Just paint the baffles a gloss black and should you add a dummy Carburator Intake at the bottom between the lower cylinders, it will look even better. P1 Front shot of YMF Classic NC 14081. P2 Close up of Carburator Intake on another Jacobs engine. P4 is another view of the Carb Intake.

    Cesar,

    It is done in a similar manner on many fully cowled radials as seen in P3, Just a simple sheet metal baffle that fits between and above the cyliders. Not all engines have them.
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    John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1)
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  22. #322

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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau


    ORIGINAL: redcesar

    Hi Bernie,

    It is the first time I see such solution for more efective radial engine cooling and I think it is verry effective. Have you seen that somewhere in real?

    Regards,
    Cesar.
    Hi Ruud,

    no, that´s my own construction. At first I would make it with Rohacell, it´s a kind of 12mm foam material and heat resistant, but the airstream with
    this "thin" material is very turbulent after the cylinders. For this solution I made a template of paperboard, see the pic.

    By the present solution it´s more laminar and more efectiv.



    Regards Bernie
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    Waco Brotherhood #63

  23. #323

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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Hi John,

    that´s my next problem. I need really a carburator intake, because the carb of the RCS 250 is sensitv against heat.
    You can see it, after the flight the engine is hot and will not start again, until the carb is getting cold. I must find a way,
    to bring fresh and cool air during the flight to the carb. And it must have a separable connection to the cowl, tho remove it.

    Bernie

    PS.: From where, by the hell, do you get these excellent pics [sm=confused.gif]
    Waco Brotherhood #63

  24. #324
    skylarkmk1's Avatar
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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Bernie,

    I am not familar with the 250, but a lot of the guys with big planes and motors draw the carb air from the cockpit area where it is not heated by the engine and is out of the air flow turbulance. If you make a scale type intake as I posted above, you may be able to use a silicon exhaust tube as a connector between the engine carb and the intake ductwork. I would be concerned about having too much RAM air coming in the front and possibly leaning out the engine.

    So in summary you have 3 choices;
    1. Leave things as they are.
    2. Duct air from the cockpit (just behind the firewall actually)
    3. Make a functional scale intake.

    I did add a couple more pictures above.
    John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1)
    AMA 10955, WACO Brotherhood #26, AWC, NWC

  25. #325
    redcesar's Avatar
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    RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau

    Hi Bernie
    That litle cooling problem were you talked about, is that only with 250 or also with the 215?
    I can imagine that the 250 with more power than the 215 in the same housing as the 215 have more heat dissipatie.

    I have send the pictures to a friend of mine, He have also a Moki 250, it be good for him to.

    I put an air intake filter from a ZDZ 160 cc on the carb and that came out behind the firewall in a calm environment where is no air flow turbulance.
    I also solder a litle tube on the lid of the carb were the litle hole is in and connect it with a hose also behind the firewall. It's prevent presure differ on the membrane of the carb.

    Regards,
    Cesar.


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