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  1. #1626

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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    Scott,

    Jim is right about these Saito's especially the big ones not working real well with spring loaded fuelers. They will suck air right through them and give you all sorts of grief, do what Jim said and use a fuel dot. Air leaks are our enemy on fuel systems.

    Paul
    Wonder Rather Than Doubt, Is The Root Of All Knowledge.
    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #20
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  2. #1627

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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    Paul

    Yah,,I use a fuel dot not a valve. Standard 3 line set-up only with larger diameter tubing.

    Have Sullivan large bore stopper and cluck and supply lines up to a inline filter then the smaller line to the carb. Maybe I should go all the way with the large line? I had never heard the point about large bore tubing on the crankcase vent. That's easy to do.
    Thanks!

    Scott

  3. #1628
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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    Hi Scott,

    I think you'll be fine with the line you have to the carb especially if it fits the carb's barb fitting well (and it should be a nice, tight fit), but make sure you double-check your connections, especially to the filter, and make sure the filter is tightly sealed everywhere. Easiest way to TEST a filter's integrity (or ANY fuel system part) is to eliminate/bypass it, and see how the system/motor responds. If it suddenly starts working, you have your culprit. I had excellent luck with the Sullivan crap-trap filters with my Saitos, if you decide you need to look for a replacement.

    I noticed after I posted that you already sent yours in for repair, so if it's in the motor, Horizon will find it and fix it. They're excellent about that. If it's not in the motor, then it's in the support to the motor; Fuel, vent, return pressure from the exhaust.

    Two other items to check on your Saito. Make sure the pressure tap from the muffler has a clear hole into the muffler - you need the pressure to push the fuel. Make sure the vent tap has a clear hole out from the crankcase - you need to be able to vent the crankcase properly through that big tubing I mentioned.

    ~ Jim ~[8D]
    J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC and
    T.I.T.O.R. - In early July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

  4. #1629
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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    I neglected to mention that I plan to order my RC guys Super Decathlon today, or tomorrow if I run out of time.

    I sold a few things, and I'll have enough. My stuff here on RCU just started going out the door, which pleased me. I also sold some fairly pricey X-Ray calibration meters to a guy in Bolivia or Brazil, for enough to buy my Super Decathlon AND pay for our vacation this year. I worried that few people have enough money to spend that much right now, but I gave it a shot. They sold overnight. You just never know.

    Life is good. Having a Decathlon? Priceless.

    I'm pretty pumped up. Now, tons of packing and shipping, and a local pickup to organize.

    ~ Jim ~
    J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC and
    T.I.T.O.R. - In early July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

  5. #1630

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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    Awesome news Jim!!!


    I recieved my DLE35 today. An excellent turn around time on this 2-1/2 days door to door. Tammy from Valleyview sure did a nice job to see I had this for the long weekend! I will pick up the servo's tommorow. That leaves me a fuel tank, fuel line, spinner and a 4.8 V ignition battery to get yet.

    Hopefully you have your SD real soon Jim!! I got mine through Chief back in the day. Have you seen the RC Guys Pitts Special?? Wow!!

    Downstairs to un pack motor and set up to begin its installation.

    Paul
    Wonder Rather Than Doubt, Is The Root Of All Knowledge.
    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #20
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  6. #1631
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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    Hi Paul,

    I got a return call from Dan at RC Guys, he took a while to call me back. Seems I just missed him when he left to bring a load of them across the border. ***SIGH*** Yeah, I missed this week's shipment, he called me after he got back from crossing the border. Anyway, my new RC Guys Super Decathlon is ordered.

    Not a huge deal, any way; I should finish the repairs on my Giant Super Sportster and get it back in the pink before I start the Decathlon project. And it WILL be a project, because yes, I'm going to do a build video on it. I decided today. It'll take longer, but it's not like I don't have planes to fly in the meantime. I'll probably dig in and start straightaway on it, and work on the GSS in between. I'm thinking the first video will be the looking at what comes out of the box. I'll probably get some drool on the lens, but those are the hazards of doing these videos.

    I'm not going to do a review build, I'm going to do a build so that guys can follow along with me as I do it MY way, which will include using some parts other than what comes with the ARF hardware, and my own processes, some of which are shortcuts, some of which are longer than usual, but I always have reasons for that.

    Fuel tank! Use a PSP aluminum Fiji water bottle cap, a Fiji 16-oz water bottle, and decent-weight clunk you have in your parts drawers, and some Tygon medium tubing. You'll need to get a TETTRA L-Type Nipple with flange for a vent fitting to put in the shoulder of the bottle. I just bought a package of them, send me a PM with your mailing address and I'll send you one. This combination of parts makes the nicest fuel tank I've ever used. One thing to remember. Tygon G-R-O-W-S longer and gets very flexible when it sits in gas, so allow 9/16" space between the clunk and the back end. I know you won't believe it at first (I didn't either), and that's okay. Like me, you'll just trim it back a few times. Once you're happy, zip-tie your inside line to the clunk and the cap nipple.

    I'll take a photo of a tank if you'd like, so you can see it.

    Spinners. Ergh. I'm ticked off with Tru-Turn; they never called me back, and never wrote me back. That's an 85-dollar spinner; you'd think they could be bothered to respond. NOT happy with them. That's not even including the TT-0823A prop locking nut system, which ain't cheap either.

    I've seen their Pitts Special. I've always liked the Pitts bipes; I'm a bipe man right from the word go. I really like their Ag Wagon too. The problem is that since I've been in Texas, I have only a tiny fraction of the storage area I had in Maine. This Decathlon required that I sold my glows, because otherwise, there simply will be no place to hang it. Forget the Pitts and the Ag Wagon!

    ~ Jim ~
    J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC and
    T.I.T.O.R. - In early July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

  7. #1632
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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    A note about Saitos. I was dealing with one recently, and it wasn't running well. I decided to bypass the filter, and the Saito started running great. It's always a good idea to eliminate the fuel filter when troubleshooting these.

    ~ Jim ~
    J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC and
    T.I.T.O.R. - In early July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

  8. #1633

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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    Sorry you missed this weeks shipment! I wonder if my replacement cowl was in there? I really like the idea of the build video! I got a fuel tank tonight, however, for future reference send me a photo of your fiji tank. That sounds really cool. I never new that tygon grew so I will leave the extra space as you describe.

    Hopefully your SD gets in soon!! I would be currious what improvements have been made to the basic kit compared to my older "new" kit. Ya gotta post plenty of pictures. I spent the night getting ready to begin the engine install, but got sidetracked tonight over at the LHS. Not entirely bad though!! The DLE looks like a quality engine! I will keep you posted!

    Paul
    Wonder Rather Than Doubt, Is The Root Of All Knowledge.
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  9. #1634

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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming



    I use Buna-n or Viton for inside my gas tanks. It's a little bit pricey but it will not go hard with time and being submerged in fuel or oil won't affect it like tygon will. I use Tygon on all exterior parts of the tank and the Buna on all the interior.

    One thing about buna and Viton is you need to use barbs on the brass tubes at the stopper


  10. #1635
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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    I change out my clunk tubings every spring, and the Tygon has no issues for that long. I use the PSP aluminum Fiji water bottle cap, which allows me to get in and out of it easily. I did use the thin-walled Tygon at first, but once it was submerged in gas I found it to be SO floppy that I was worried it would flop forward too easily. It literally was like cooked spaghetti.

    Tygon can harden over time. But most of us have to go in every two to three years to put a fresh set of batteries in, just to be sure. My batteries are usually buried in the same places the tubings occupy, so it just makes sense to put fresh tubings in while I'm in there. I find the Tygon to be much tougher and more resilient and resistant to chafing than the Viton outside the tank and in the airframe.

    I have used the Viton, and it swelled up in the gas, though it seemed to hold okay. I remember not liking it, and switching back to Tygon. I still have the Hayes pack of Viton hanging out there.

    The PSP Fiji water bottle aluminum cap has a barbed fitting inside of it, so it would be a good one to use if a barb is required, for those who use Viton.

    ~ Jim ~[8D]
    J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC and
    T.I.T.O.R. - In early July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

  11. #1636

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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    Buna-n is the preferred line to use over the Viton. The only case I would use it outside the tank is for a smoke system after the check valve to the muffler. Ohh yeah buna is also heat resistant

  12. #1637

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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    Guys,

    Somwhere contained within this thread is a picture of the SD standing up attatched to a ladder to facilitate the location and installation of the motor. I am trying to find it so I can copy the method used to attatch the plane to the ladder. I know I saw it on here somwhere!! any help with this would be greatly appreciated!!

    Thanks


    Paul
    Wonder Rather Than Doubt, Is The Root Of All Knowledge.
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  13. #1638
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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    No need for that.

    Take 2 pieces of two-by four, about 20 inches long each( cut off square at the ends), and run the center of each through a tablesaw. Stop the cut while you are still a few inches from the end. To know how far from the end to stop, figure the distance/difference between the back of your elevators and the back of your rudder, leaving minimally the same - preferably a little longer - as the distance between where the cut ends and the end of the wood. Do this a few times, increasing the width of the cut each time until the slot will hold your elevator and horizontal stab. If you rudder is shorter (not likely), then any distance you decide on will work.

    Take your two pieces, slide them over your elevator/stabs, and you can stand the plane on the ground, even though you already assembled your tail feathers.

    Then stand the fuse against the work bench (with some padding), and run a number of tapes around it and tape it to the workbench, with the open part facing you so you can best access the back of the firewall as you work. Secure it so the firewall is approximately level.

    If your landing gear is already mounted, take two long, thin pieces of wood and drill a hole though each near the end, and run a screw (or the axle) through the gear and the wood. Then, clamp the two pieces of wood to the side of the workbench as they hang straight down. Secure it so the firewall is approximately level.

    I hope this helps.

    ~ Jim ~
    J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC and
    T.I.T.O.R. - In early July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

  14. #1639

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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming


    ORIGINAL: TexasSkyPilot

    No need for that.

    Take 2 pieces of two-by four, about 20 inches long each( cut off square at the ends), and run the center of each through a tablesaw. Stop the cut while you are still a few inches from the end. To know how far from the end to stop, figure the distance/difference between the back of your elevators and the back of your rudder, leaving minimally the same - preferably a little longer - as the distance between where the cut ends and the end of the wood. Do this a few times, increasing the width of the cut each time until the slot will hold your elevator and horizontal stab. If you rudder is shorter (not likely), then any distance you decide on will work.

    Take your two pieces, slide them over your elevator/stabs, and you can stand the plane on the ground, even though you already assembled your tail feathers.

    Then stand the fuse against the work bench (with some padding), and run a number of tapes around it and tape it to the workbench, with the open part facing you so you can best access the back of the firewall as you work. Secure it so the firewall is approximately level.

    If your landing gear is already mounted, take two long, thin pieces of wood and drill a hole though each near the end, and run a screw (or the axle) through the gear and the wood. Then, clamp the two pieces of wood to the side of the workbench as they hang straight down. Secure it so the firewall is approximately level.

    I hope this helps.

    ~ Jim ~



    Paul did you get all that??

    Ithink the pic your taling about is in the manual. You can download it from RCguys website.

    Cheers

  15. #1640
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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    The picture on that site is of a model that has no elevators or rudder. It takes nothing to stand a model on its fin when there's no rudder or elevators.

    If you want to stand it up the way the photo shows, you NEED to read what I wrote.

    Take the time to read it. It doesn't take a genius, and it's not hard to do.

    The two by fours serve two purposes, for two reasons. 1. They hold the elevator and stab in one straight line. 2. They act as standoffs, holding the elevator and stab up off the ground, far enough that the rudder doesn't hit the ground, or at least far enough that the rudder doesn't bust off by downward pressure on the tail, since: 3. The model is standing on its tail to position the firewall level, because: 4. That's how you mount a gasser onto a firewall.

    PM me if you need to, Paul, and I'll give you my phone number. I can describe it easily. It's really easy to do.

    ~ Jim ~
    J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC and
    T.I.T.O.R. - In early July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

  16. #1641

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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    It take nothing to hang the plane from it's gear off of a ladder and no table saw needed

  17. #1642
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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    Yeah, that five minutes of work, resulting in having no ladder to have to work around, that's a terrible trial to suffer through.

    My way works just as well. And I guarantee the model is more stable.

    ~ Jim ~
    J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC and
    T.I.T.O.R. - In early July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

  18. #1643
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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    Paul,

    If you need any help, give me a PM, and we can do a call.

    I'll drop back in here when my RC Guys SD arrives in a week or two.

    ~ Jim ~
    J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC and
    T.I.T.O.R. - In early July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

  19. #1644

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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    Guys,

    After much thought, I used a little bit from everyon'e suggestions. I might say things turned out pretty good! Using the stock standoff's from DLE, I had to add an 11/16" mounting plate to get the proper spacing for the prop hub.

    I mounted the fuse to a 6' step ladder as shown in the attatched photo's using wood and clamps. This really worked out nice for aligning the motor and cowl. Jim, when you do your build video, you are going to have to change some of the order in which the instruction manual lays out the assembly. I never would of put the tail feathers on had I known what I know now. It would of been much easier to have stood the fuse up against the bench on it's vertical and horizontal stabs less the tail feathers!!! I was up and down a step stool about a gazillion times today/this evening aligning the cowl until I had everything positioned properly!!! Anyway, have a look at the pictures I took as I slogged along with this step in the assembly of my SD. Overall, I am quite happy with the outcome. The spinner back plate I am using is too small, I have to order the proper one next week. I just used it as a guide to check alignment.

    Onto the next steps!!

    Paul
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  20. #1645
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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    LOL - Paul, I've already laid out the early videos in a much different order. You're absolutely correct about that.

    Sure, you can get it done just fine the way you did, but it's so tall like that and you're dealing with lots of stuff, and thinking, If I'd only known what I know now before I fit those tail feathers!

    Hindsight is 20/20 vision.

    Looks like you did a fine job anyway. This portion of the build is real detail work; it goes very slowly, but you know every minute you're doing it that it's one of the most important setup stages in the whole build. I'll cover ways to make that go more easily in my videos.

    What was your distance from the firewall to the backplate? I notice the manual wasn't very specific, and my standoffs place my backplate at 6-1/2", so I'm curious.

    I got my hands on a heavy Oak dowel stick from ??Home Depot?? or someplace like that. Super-dense Oak, solid as a stone, and when I need some extra length for a standoff, I just lay it into my chopsaw and cut it off square, at whatever exact thickness I need. Easy-Peasy, and it doesn't add any more weight than I need for the job to get done.

    Nice photos. Wow, looks like you nailed that cowl/spinner placement from the front. Ooo, sides too. Nice.

    Well, time for me to call it a night. Looking good there!

    ~ Jim ~
    J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC and
    T.I.T.O.R. - In early July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

  21. #1646
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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    I think I know what's going on with it taking a long time to get into RCU. I notice that on Threads that are new, and have, say, one page of posts, that it loads immediately. But this thread, which has well over 1600 posts, takes minutes to load, like three or four. Longer threads take even longer. That's to get into the thread, or to post a reply. Using the page numbers to shift pages is faster, but sometimes not much faster.

    RCU I.T. techies, please take note. I haven't been this frustrated with RCU usability in over five years. And yes, Foxfire is my browser, but guess what? It does it on the other browsers too.

    It's starting to get old.

    ~ Jim ~[:-]
    J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC and
    T.I.T.O.R. - In early July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming


    ORIGINAL: TexasSkyPilot

    I think I know what's going on with it taking a long time to get into RCU. I notice that on Threads that are new, and have, say, one page of posts, that it loads immediately. But this thread, which has well over 1600 posts, takes minutes to load, like three or four. Longer threads take even longer. That's to get into the thread, or to post a reply. Using the page numbers to shift pages is faster, but sometimes not much faster.

    RCU I.T. techies, please take note. I haven't been this frustrated with RCU usability in over five years. And yes, Foxfire is my browser, but guess what? It does it on the other browsers too.

    It's starting to get old.

    ~ Jim ~[:-]

    Yep I've notice that it got slower too. Wierd never seemed to be like that before. Either way RCUhas the best thread on this plane

  23. #1648
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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    It really is. I just wish that navigating it wasn't so bad right now.

    ~ Jim ~
    J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC and
    T.I.T.O.R. - In early July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

  24. #1649
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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    Okay,

    Well, that about does it on the selling. I've sold ALL the planes I intended to sell on RCU marketplace this past week and through the weekend. This paid for my newly-ordered RC Guys Super Decathlon, my Syssa gas engine (which I ordered in anticipation of selling all that stuff), and about three hundred bucks worth of aftermarket hardware and stuff I bought for the build. That includes servos, gas tank parts for making my Fiji water bottle tank, and even the Tru-Turn spinner (RED, no less. Cool, eh?).

    I don't know about you, but usually I start out a build by ordering the kit, then I play catch-up with the engine/motor, and then figure out what parts I'll need to start out with, and then go paycheck-to-paycheck on the rest of the parts, as quickly as I can. This is probably the most prepared I've ever been at the start of a project.

    Plus, since I paid for all the things I whipped out out my card to buy (banking on the sales going through), I won't have to suffer certain death at the hands of my beautiful, loving, understanding wife.

    I finished up almost all the shipping of engines and stuff, and met and handed off the larger items to all the local pickups. My garage/shop looks a little bare without all the glow birds, but I'm pleased that the plan has gone so well. I did end up with my SIG Sundancer .50 bipe still hanging here. Probably because I couldn't really bear to sell it, and kept the price high enough that I didn't get any real bites. I'm not complaining!

    Only waiting for the Tru-Turn spinner, and the Decathlon now.

    ~ Jim ~[8D]
    J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC and
    T.I.T.O.R. - In early July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

  25. #1650

    Join Date
    May 2006
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    RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming

    Guys,

    I am now working on mounting my fuel system and setting up to put my throttle servo in. Being new to gas, I see many folks are removing the idle adjustment screw on their carbs. Is this a good idea or is this just standard operating procedure? Also, what sort of pushroads/connectors are you using for the throttle linkage set-ups? AND what fuel dots and what on/off/charge switches should I use for the 4.8V ignition battery?

    Jim I am glad you are geeting all set-up for the arrival of your SD. I am still waiting for my cowl replacement from Dan, and am expecting he must of shipped it last week so more than likely I will see it this week sometime. This thread is huge!!! This plane has had a lot of comments and build tips throughout. I really like Cmoulders radio set up which leaves room for smoke someday if I should decide to go that route as it seems like a lot of messing around. What I am finding is you really have to think hard about where to put what in this plane. So far I have decided to keep the rudder pull - pull servo mounted in the cabin and both elevator servo's mounted externally in the tail of the fuse. It seems the throttle servo gets mounted where ever it suits your engine throttle linkage which is on the left upper portion of the engine mount.

    I still need to order a 3.5" spinner for the plane. Looking like Tru-Turn as well.

    Paul
    Wonder Rather Than Doubt, Is The Root Of All Knowledge.
    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #20
    P51 Mustang Brotherhood #30


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