polikarpov i16

dose anyone have pictures of how the origional wheel pants were atached to the leggs of a gee bee r2
I want to make functional scale gear and can not find a picture
is the wheel pant attached to the fron yoke and the back than bolted to the front half of the wheel pant -
or is it the other way around

my flying field is a little rough and I want to make use of some oil filled shocks i have from my 1/8 scale buggy days
I had shocks on an aircraft befor and it was cool
would not bounce just land and stick
made even me look good

thanks Joe

TomCrump

Do a search. A few months back, some one posted pics of funtional spats.

I think he mounted the spats to the oleos, used the stock wing mounting, and reworked the center section.

There were detailed pics in the post.

polikarpov i16

thanks tom I found the thread
that would not be an option for me
trying to keep it closer to scale
thanks for the reply though

wings2an3

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If you are still interested I can send you pics tonight when i get home, or do a search on this site of my posting, I may have posted some allready. 50% R2 just about ready to maiden.

TLH101

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On the full scale GeeBee, the upper portion, or gear fairing is mounted solid to the wing, or gear frame. The actual wheel pant is mounted to lower strus and moves up and down with the wheel. It fits around the outside of the fairing at their junction. maybe this pic will help. It's from Delmer's book about the rplica. The other is a pic of Sierra Precisions Gee Bee gear.

polikarpov i16

the more pics the better is delmars book still available
I am making a 1933 bendex version
I have the page aviation kit but am going to redesign the wing to be more scale
I have somme drawings of the longer wing with flaps that I am going to use for the outline
I am also going to sheet the whole wing like the origional
want to be abble to just flat her in

TLH101

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I don't know if delmer's book is still available or not. It's ISBN 0-87938-820-X
The wheel pants in the Page kit are done almost exact scale. You just need to mount the lowers to the struts so the move seperate from the fairings. You will notice the openings for the flying wires are slots, this lets the pants move independant of the flying wires, which are attached to the rear of the struts.
Some good pics here: http://www.aerospacemuseum.org/colle...storation.html

wings2an3

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I constructed these as the the Granville Bros. did. Its the only way I could hook up the flying wires.

wings2an3

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hope these help!

polikarpov i16

mine looks so small now
thank you for the pictures
I will do mine almost the same
the only thing I am going to add is a link from the base of where you oleo attaches to the yoke back to the strut
this is because I do not think the shocks i am using would fair to well with a side load
I will use auto cad to get the angles right

have a great morning I am going to bed

polikarpov i16

I bought the book terry
looks like aileron reversal is something to consider on landing

after much thought I decided to just go with 5/8" robart struts
sometimes you just have to take the easy way out
I am still going to have to rework the fairing a little
the robo strut has 1.5 inches of movment
should look good though
I am going to add a post out of the botom af the fairing to atach the flying wires
the wheel pant will move up and down like the real one

once again thank you for the info on the book

Joe

TLH101

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I've never read of the reversal problem showing up in a model. Delmar used a "reflexed" airfoil like the original, and that may be where his problems came from.

polikarpov i16

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polikarpov i16

kind of working my way forward at this time

polikarpov i16

back to the main gear
I chose to take the easy way out and ordered some robostruts
1.25 inches of travel
1/4 of the real mccoy

polikarpov i16

living life one piece of balsa at a time

polikarpov i16

a couple more days work
finishe the landing gear blocks
made some axel spacers for the wheels also out of some 6061
time to start on the flaps

polikarpov i16

well I attached the wheel pants to the legs today
the wood block will be epoxyed to the inside of the wheel pants
the aluminum tubes run through the wood blocks and are secured to the legs with 3mm button head screws
I think the gear should hold together realy well
my son thinks the parts would make a great scooter for him
looks like i might have to buy him a scooter because there is no way i am giving up my landing gear

RichardGee

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Polikarpov,

Very nice work on your rarely modeled rendition of the GeeBee. You are lucky to have obtained a Page kit as Adrian is no longer producing them.

I suggest you refrain from installing massive fuel tanks in your 1933 Bendix racer, as that is what led to the original's demise (LOL)

What powerplant do you intend to use?

Are you sheeting all the scale areas (unlike Adrian's kit design)? What is your projected finished weight?

FYI - I built a 25% R2 from Henry Haffke plans, modifying the aircraft for as close to scale fidelity as was available at the time. Finished weight was 18 pounds. Initial flights were with Quadra 42, followed by the installation of Technopower 9 cyl. 4 cu. in. radial.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/...ry&memid=37603

The aircraft flew great, but was tough to land - although not impossible. Like the full scale, it required 100% concentration on every landing. Take-offs were a little dicey as yaw control transitioned from tailwheel to rudder. The aircraft was very pitch sensitive and low rates were necessary on landing. If slowed too much, the aircraft would simply stall forward with a total loss of elevator control, so landings, as I say, required much finesse.

I was gratified to talk with Delmar Benjamin at Oshkosh 1998 and find that my 25% model exhibited very similar handling characteristics to his full scale.

I will be building another R2 before year's end - this one by Iron Bay (Byron).

I will eventually build 33% from Hostetler plans.

Gee Bees RULE!!!

polikarpov i16

I also ha the pleasure of speeking to delmar also
it was brief but i did stick around and listen to a couple of stories
I have a moki 2.1 I will be using on the aircraft
I am also shooting for 16 to 18 lbs
my gear adds about a pound to the aircraft but i think it will be worth it
most of the take off proublems I read about seemed to be from rubing of the tires on the wheel pants
I have decided to make tourqe tubes for the ailerons so the wing will proubably take a while to complete
I enjoy working with metal so it should be fun
think i will have them on ball races and work just like the real one
I am also going to try the recomended 16 oz tank and keep the flights a little shorter
I think I should get about 6 safe minutes of flight
I am going to cover it in stits
I just cant see not having a great looking durable finish on the aircraft
thank you for the incouragment richard and sory your gee bee did not last longer
just tell me the radial made it

you going to eaa this year???
I am kind of lucky it is only 45minutes away

have a great night joe

RichardGee

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Joe,

My Gee Bee was a handful on take off due to my inexperience with that type of aircraft. Once I learned that it required huge doses of rudder at the right time, it was OK. You've seen how Delmar had to dance on his rudder to keep the thing going straight down the runway...
My Gee Bee lasted long enough for me to fly it many times on both engines. I have the video to prove it.
I mainly wanted to help promote Technopower engines... the previous owner out of Chicago, "Elmer," used to show my footage at the tradeshows.
However, the 9 cyl. Technopower was not happy inside a cowl, running at full throttle - heat was a constant problem.
But when she ran good, there was nothing like it in the air!

Sounds to me like you have your Gee Bee planned well, as far as weight and power. I am partial to gas, but the Moki 2.1 should be ideal for your projected weight. However, if it were me, I would go with a 24 oz. tank just to have plenty of fuel on board... I have made half a dozen + landing attempts before setting down and you DO NOT want the extra burden of worrying about your fuel level as you jocky for just the right approach... believe me!

I finally sold my Gee Bee, sans radial, to an aircraft memorabilia outfit "Wings America" who had just opened a store at Disneyland in Anaheim, CA. They ended up selling it for some obscene price to a collector.

I sold the radial to a fellow modeler, so all ended well.

The Gee Bee racers remain my hands-down favorite aircraft of all-time. I was a Delmar "groupie" of sorts, attending airshows as often as I could whenever he was going to be their with the R2. I had the privelege of attending his first CA performance in Watsonville and his last US performance in Visalia, CA.

All the "myths" surrounding the ill-handling of the Gee Bee R1 and R2 are basically true - except perhaps for the high speed stall caused by going past 30 degrees bank.... still not sure what happened when Doolittle experienced that snap roll anomoly... but Delmar learned how to deal with all the Gee Bee idiosyncracies and proved that "in the hands of a good pilot, it's a good airplane" and visa versa.

Hope you post more pictures of your 1933 Bendix version so I can follow your progress.

YES - my son and I are attending EAA this year - July 27 - 30.

polikarpov i16

i am still working on the wheel pants richard
I will post a pick when done

I am hoping to find out if granny got it right on this one
more wing area and flaps for a short field landing
not to menton a thicker airfoil
more rudder area than the r 1 had with the same engine
too bad haizlip didn't use the flaps
ouch

I am using the moki because i can't afoard a satio 450
I already have it broke in anyway
just took 4 gallons
great engine
me and gas are not the best of friends
0 to migrane in about 5 minutes
the moki sounds better and shakes less anyway

I will be at the eaa on monday
might be able to sneak back on anouther day - to early to tell

so how did you do the louvers on your gee bee richard???
inquiring gee bee fanatics want to know

RichardGee

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Since the entire nose 'bowl' was carved, sanded and shaped balsa blocks, ultimately fiberglassed, I cut out the louvers with an x-acto and then used a chamfered/angled dremel wheel to get the correct shape on each one.
It was NOT an exact science, but all part of the wonderful art of scratch building.
Once I had them all looking uniform and smooth, a bit of epoxy resin brushed into each one, followed by more hand sanding and then primer (more sanding - just like every compound curve on the rest of the model) and paint, followed by dabbing black paint into each one, and from more than 2-3 feet, they really looked like scale louvers.

The Moki 2.1 will provide excellent power at half the weight of a Saito 450. Good choice.

I will be doing a build article for the Iron Bay (Byron) R2. Power will either by Evolution 58 or 3W 70 twin. Not sure when it will publish.

Keep up the postings!

polikarpov i16

http://www.aerospacemuseum.org/colle...storation.html
I bet you could drive and see this one richard
they have a few good things about it on youtube
cool stuff

joe

polikarpov i16

a couple of pics
time to go to work
1 down 4 to go