spidernad

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OK, got the servos, extensions, remote light switches, and eng kill switch in today.
Feels like Christmas day!
I like this better than relocating hinge holes and gluing in control surfaces!
I'd better get busy

Ozflyboi

Hi Spider,

As to your earlier post those servos seem like they are okay. My father has been using the HD servos in other models and so far they have held up fine.

I also located my post with the images of the mods I did to my engine box.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_74...16/key_/tm.htm

Hope this helps. Just PM me if you get stuck or have any other questions.

Steve

spidernad

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Oh right, I did see that.
I've downloaded every photo on this thread, just haven't gone through and studied them all yet, but I do remember looking at those measurements, great stuff!
Looks like you have a shim or cushion between the eng box and firewall too.

Ozflyboi

Okay I think I know what you are on about. The engine box will need to be mounted to the firewall so that the crank shaft and prop spacer exit symetrically from the cowl opening.

I have attached a front on image of my cowling showing the prop hub exiting the cowling.

If you were referring to the gap between the spinner backplate and nose ring the you will always have an uneven gap, that is unless you apply a wedge spacer to the front of the cowling nose ring. I did not feel the need to do this as the closest gap between spinner/nose ring was within a 2mm. It is something that cannot be avoided and only masked as stated above.

I appologise for any confusion caused.

Steve

spidernad

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OK, so I'm not referring to the centerline of the engine being in the center of the hole in the cowl, although that obviously is one step needed when mounting the eng box.

Yes, the space between the back of the spinner and the front of the cowl.
On my 50% Edge they actually molded the cowl with that front surface of the cowl angled to match the angle of the engine.
When the plane is finished you don't have a goofy uneven space between spinner and cowl.
That just makes a nice finish on that area, I guess it's not that important but it can look strange if it's bad enough.
Those pics of Sal's before he modified it were goofy.

Daniel Spurlock

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The bottom half of the cowl dosent look right.

spidernad

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About the Power HD servos, so far they look great. The case on the 8325 is all aluminum, top to bottom, very stout.

Below is a paste from a post I made on a forum about Power HD servos. You have to be careful with which arms you use.



"I have always used Futaba servos but have been looking for some good alternatives that wont break the bank. (Thanks to the economy)

I'm building a 35% TMMY Cessna 182 and and after reading this thread have bought the DS8325HV servos for the control surfaces and HD-1201MG for the choke and throttle.

I wanted to use the AirWild MLP servo arms but saw on this thread that they bottomed out on the servo case.
Some of the guys were saying the Futaba metal arms were OK. They aren't. THEY BOTTOM OUT TOO!
This will cause premature servo failure.

OK here is the lowdown.

The shaft on the 8325 servo sticks out 3.5mm.
The stock plastic arm has a 3mm deep hole in it, that leaves .5mm clearance.
The Futaba metal arms have a 3.7mm deep hole in them, so that means .2mm of arm has no where to go but into your servo case. You can feel the servo tighten up as you tighten the arm screw.

The easiest fix would be to put some sandpaper on a flat surface and sand away enough material on the bottom of the arm to get clearance.
A milling machine would be nice, but how many people have one of those.

I still plan on using the AirWild arms but will modify them for clearance. (I would have to do that with the Futaba arms anyway so might as well use the ones I really want.)

Whatever arms you use please check the clearances and make sure they have some, if they don't then please make some.

I don't want people loosing planes or even just wrongly claiming the servos wore out and were lousy and giving them an inaccurate rating / reputation.

I have only checked the 8352 servos so far but assume all Power HD servos are the same shaft length for now and check them all. Really this goes for any servo / arm combination.

Also the nice 3x8mm socket head cap screws that people use to upgrade the stock Futaba Phillips head servo arm attaching screws are too long for for these servos. Use 3x6 instead.
The hole for the screw is deep enough but they are not threaded as far down as the Futaba servos.
You could tap the hole deeper but the 3x6mm should be fine. The stock screw is 3x5mm Phillips.

If anyone has a line to the factory (maybe topflight36), it would be cool if Power HD milled a little more off the top of the servo cap (say .5mm or so) and maybe even tap the output shaft hole a little deeper (say 2 or 3mm) that would make the world a perfect place. But really, make the servos more compatible with other arms and more people might buy them and also less failures / better reputation.

Hope this helps.

Dan"

ausfly47

Hi Guys.
Just wanted to set the record straight.
I always had right thrust on all my large scale planes, My new Cessna has down thrust also.
Its good to see a lot of activity on here at the moment.
Looking forward to some pics and video when the planes are finished and test flown.
Regards.
Martin.

Ozflyboi

Hi Martin,

My bad for the mix up on the thrust line. Yes I can recall now when the power was applied the nose was pitching.

The down thrust on your new Cessna should rectify this issue and make the plane easier to fly.

Hope all is well lost contact with you. When do you expect to have your Cessna ready for it maiden test and secondly do you have an inspector lined up?

Steve

style fly

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Ok here are some more build shots of under the floor boards im using a POWERBOX comp.12 ...with a Futaba 12TZ Tx. then for Batt. inm using liMag.We installed the charge leads last night in the rear floor board. i should still be able to have the first flight on Sat 9/24/11........... not much left

cgcrc

Hi Adrian;

Sorry for the delay in responding to your post re the poor welding of the engine mount.

I also had the same problem with the 185 engine mount. My mounting tabs were bent and broken.

I had mine re welded on both the bottom and top side of the tab. I had the welder grind a 45 degree angle on the bottom of the tab where it “butted� to the engine mount, he then filled that with weld .
He then put a bead of weld on the top. It sure made it strong. I also had him put in a 1� tack weld inside the engine mount on the corners etc. for added strength.
I found that some of my machine screws holding the sides together were stripped during assembly at the plant.

Regards
Randy

style fly

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Yes on my engine mount Ihad the inside welded on all corners. The screw holes were all strpped out - now I feel more confindent- i have noticed on some of the mounts the srcrews are reset in the mount and some are not... Hmmmmm

Mr DJ

What up Everybody?

Just a few photos of my Man's 50% Bill H Extra. Who's my Man, the one and only Spidernad He decided to drive down from Jersey and hang out at one of my flying fields: PGRC. Today we had our Giant Scale Flyin and tomorrow we'll have our Warbird Flyin'.

Spidernad AKA Dan is a pretty kool cat, but not as kool as the Koolest Brother on RCU - that be me: Mr DJ

Dan's Cessna is in building stage; lookin' for to seein' that puppy.

Good hangin' with you, Dan... We be seein' you.

Mr DJ

spidernad

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LOL , You really are the coolest brother on RCU.
This guy don't be half steppin' he's the Real Deal !

Good people.

Great to meet you Mr DJ

Here's one more of the EDGE.(not extra, but I knew what you meant)

style fly

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I wish i knew about the giant scale fun fly- i would have come down and hung out with you guys - well if there is one thing i learned is that your a nobody in this hobby untill you get your picture taken with the ONE and ONLY -MR.DJ. -I was lucky enough to meet him him at Warbirds over Delaware. (LOL) he's a KOOL DUDE -very chill......... ok Dan keep posting build shots and stay in-touch.........

spidernad

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LOL

Mr DJ

Sal/Dan,

Both of you Gents are true Gents... Glad you're in my mix...

Thanks...

Mr DJ

style fly

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So here are some shots the the ailerons and flap wires runninig down the pillars- plus some shots of the powerbox

spidernad

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Lookin' good Sal, your almost there!

style fly

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Just a few more build shots - the only thing left is to re-check the C.G.. Using a DA 150 we found it to be slight tail heavy - a pound of weight in the nose should do it.the forcast for sat. now has a scare of rain -so maybe well delay the first flight- weather has to be perfect - also anyone in the NYC aera on October 8th and 9th / PARCS R/C club has a giant scale fly-in at FLYODBENNETFIELD in Brooklyn N.Y. i hope to attend with the BIGCessna

spidernad

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Lookin' good Sal.

Do you have a battery for the lights?

The manual says 4.8v but I wonder if they can use a 6vsince I already have one of those from another plane.

My pilots are finished and on their way. Those Aussie girls are amazing pilot makers.
Steve (Ozflyboi) you look pretty good with a goatee. lol
The guy with the Phillies cap is the Red Baron (Manfred von Richthofen) in some modern clothes. lol

If anyone wants pilots from them their info is:

Website: http://www.properlittlepeople.com/index.html
Email: [email protected]
RCU thread: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_95..._1/key_/tm.htm

style fly

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Dan thoses pilots are kick ass- i never herd of this company before- now they are what scale? im very nterested in them for some other projects

mario tavarez14

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spidernad those pilot are amazing , i love it , hey sal let's order 10 of them , OMG

spidernad

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Sal, I was looking up the page numbers for you or I would have replied quicker.

On this thread, page 41, post # 1012 by Steve (Ozflyboi) is where I discovered these pilots. (Thanks Steve.)
They actually can make a mold of your head from pictures you send them.
Steve did this and you can see the likeness is striking. Of course it cost more to do a mold of yourself and I am running low on funds these days so I had them make a "Steve" head for me and just had them paint it with a goatee to look more like me.
I would have liked a mold of myself but maybe when money is better, then allI have to do is switch the heads on one of the pilots I already got from them.
The pilots I got are 1/3 scale but they can make any scale you want. They have a few different heads already cast, mostly famous warbird pilots like my Red Baron pilot. They will have more choices in the future and of course you can always have a mold of yourself made.

You can alsoclick onthelink for the thread thatIincludedin my last post.
Page 12 post # 284 of that thread is more on the "Steve" pilot construction process, in fact that whole thread is fascinating if you want to read through it.

Dan

spidernad

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Mario I thought you ordered from them a long time ago. I saw a post from you on that thread.