Rescueflyer

I would love to get some plans for the Gere Sport. A friend found one at the dump about ten years ago and gave it to me. I didn't know what it was for a long time, now that I do I would love to get it flying. I knocked the wing over last month and it snapped in half. That is when I discovered that the wing had been butt glued after a crash and put back together with no reinforcement. A set of plans would go along way with getting this classic back in the air.
Thanks, Will

Ken Kehlet

My Feedback: (89)

Hi Gere Sport Modeler,

Too bad you are so far away from Oklahoma City.

I have an ENLARGED Bud Nosen Gere Sport Aircraft (Airframe only no Engine or electronics) I say ENLARGED!

This one has a set of 10 Foot Wings that Fold at the 5 foot center and a 8.5 Foot Fuselage. Yes it's BIG. Has a little hanger damage to the Stab and one side of the Elevator, easy fix. Covered in Ceconite(?) and painted Yellow.

I plan to put it up for sale here at RCU for $200.00 Local carry off only. (There must be that much in the covering and paint)

Any Takers? Someone with a pickup truck or large trailer.

Cientifico

I can mail you the original plans
Only let me know where
You can email me at [email protected]

Best Regards
Eduardo Roesch

douglas racer

Hi guys. I don't want to hijack the thread but I thought this would be a good place to ask a question. I'm rebuilding a 1/4 Nosen Citabria that someone at least 4 owners ago damaged in a minor landing crash. I think it flipped over on landing. The vertical stab and tailplane had to be completely rebuilt. Anyway, it came with no windows in it, just the front windshield. Is there anywhere I can get clear vacuformed windows for it? I'm thinking I may just cover over the windows with black or silver covering to simulate windows. I'm not planning on doing anything with the interior anyway. Input or opinions would be welcome. Thanks PS I have a PDF file of the plans if anyone needs them.

Bass1

Those Citabria side windows are just cut from clear sheet plastic. Most good hobby shops carry it or you can try a plastics supply house in your area.

douglas racer

So they just glue on from the outside? The fuselage sides are over 1/4 inch thick so I would have figure they would have been vacuformed and put in from the inside?

Bass1

Yeah, They just glue on from the outside. When I built mine, I did a search here on RCU for "flush mounted" windows and and that time there was a guy in Texas that designed and sold this cool little Dremel bit called a "Rout-a-kit". It cost about $23. You could adjust it for any depth you wanted and it cut a perfect 1/32 deep groove on the borders of the window frames for the windows to fit perfectly flush. Really gives it that factory looking finish! Awesome little tool but I don't think they're available any more. Here's a little more info. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9085959

douglas racer

Thanks for the info. Flush mounting them would be ideal. I'm going to keep an eye out for something like that. I hope to have it in the air this summer.

douglas racer

I just noticed in your pictures on the other string you have the same upper fuselage design as mine. IE it looks like you mount the wing on top. As I said I didn't build mine myself. The wing on mine is 2 piece with one longer than the other so that the longer one mounts on top of the fuselage flush with the opposite side of the fuselage. Is that how yours is? It seemed odd to me and all the others I have seen have the traditional plug in wings. Can you tell me more about that?

Bass1

Actually I built mine as a three piece. Center section and the two outboard wing panels, The plans /instructions gave you the option. I do leave the center section connected (bolted through) to the right wing panel so it's basically the same setup as yours. And both of my wings plug into the center section that is fitted with larger aluminum tubes (permanently installed) that serve as sockets (female), with the inside diameter of those tubes the exact size/fit of the outside diameter of the permanently installed aluminum wing tubes (male). I used 6/32" (I believe) socket head machine screws that go through the aligned holes in both the female and male tubes that in turn bolt through the center section of the fuse with blindnuts under the hardwood wing mounting rails to secure it all nice and snug. Seems I remember getting the dihedral correct was the hardest part of the setup as I've seen some Nosen Citabrias that looked like they had anhedral[sm=what_smile.gif] just from the weight of the outboard wing panels! The wing struts also play a big role in keeping the dihedral where it should be and also keeping the wings from folding in flight[X(]. The plane is a blast to fly on a lazy sunday afternoon by the way!

Rescueflyer

http://pages.suddenlink.net/arlyn/tcrebuild.html

Check out this rebuild of a Hangar 9 older style Taylorcraft. About mid way through the rebuild the guy used a old crock pot and some plywood and heat formed his windows. I plan on doing the same for some windows that I need.

Will

Bass1

That's a really cool technique!

douglas racer

Wow...that was really interesting watching that rebuild. I bookmarked it. His window molding idea was brilliant. I might try that. Bass1 Thanks for clearing that up with the wing. I think if I had built it I would have made it 3 piece or permanently mounted the center section. I have a half finished 1/4 Balsa USA Cub and the center section is permanental attached. I haven't even tried the wings on the Citabria yet so I have no idea if the dihedral is right. It didn't come with struts so that is something I have to start on soon. I'm going make them something like the ones shown at the "Cub Den" I tried to post the link but it wouldn't word. Google Cub Den and it will be at the top. Anyway...thanks for the info guys....I'm going to get back at it.

Bass1

DR, That cub den link doesn't open for me and it just gives a bunch of free prize offers? Anyway, Just in case you're not aware, The wing struts on the Citabria are fully functional and must be strong and anchored appropiately. If not, you'll lbe flying (crashing) a large V-wing projectile[X(] Oh yeah and the horizontal stab needs brace wires as well. Just a heads up! Good luck with your build.

douglas racer

Hi Bass1 I'm not sure why the link wouldn't work but I edited the post to delete it. Just google Cub Den. It's a pretty good website. As for the struts I'm going to make sure they are strong. I'm thinking of sandwiching a piece of metal between the gear and the fuselage from one side to the other to attach the struts to. Basically the struts on each side would in effect tied together. I think this would be really strong. I don't care about scale appearance just functionality. As for the tail braces I was debating putting them back on because I rebuilt the tail and vertical stab much stronger than the original plans showed. I don't think I will need them but I've decided to put them on anyway because they weigh very little and will make it even stronger. I tend to build my planes like tanks. I'm also going to slice into the wing covering a bit to make sure the anchor points for the struts are well reinforced as I didn't build or cover them myself. I'll post some pictures sometime. Thanks

Bass1

Cool, Sounds like you've got a handle on everything.

Cientifico

Sorry to tell that the plans were destroyed by the humidity

Another person ask for the plans the only undamaged were the building instructions & 3 view

if you whant them give me you e mail & I will forward them.

er

mastmec

Hey, I'm  building a Bud Citabria, and wondering about what engine to use, I'm thinking of using a satio twin 1.80, have any of  you ran a four stroke and what size? This is my first plane to build from plans. Another question is what size servo for the rudder, I'm going to use a pull-pull system, and elevator, where to mount the servos. Thanks for your input.

Bass1

If I had a Saito twin 180 available to use, I would order a new cowl from Fiberglass Specialties and install it in my Citabria in a heart beat. Only problem I would have would be finding matching paint for the "new" cowl. That engine would be very workable and a real nice fitting and sounding powerplant for that airframe (IMHO)[8D] and my very reasonably priced Hitec 645mg servo seems to do just fine on my rudder.

chris heystek

My Feedback: (9)

I have a saito 180 on mine flys at 1/3 power all day plenty of power I had to add 8 oz of weight on the firewall for balance mine weighs about 13# with smoke system and no wheel pants. enjoy the build it sure was a builders kit Chris

tenacious101010

My Feedback: (97)

With the G-38 and electronic ignition, no extra weight added.

LunaSea

here is the link for Cub Den
http://www.thecubden.org/cubmenu/cubmain.html

Twin_Flyer

My Feedback: (4)

I know this is an old thread, but I just picked up one of these today. Unfinished.

Came with a glow engine in it. I will either go with a four-stroke or gas.

I'm leaning towards gas. Q35? Old school plane should have an old school engine, right? Might be a good candidate for a Ryoby conversion as well.

Anyone flown one lately?

Thanks,
Bill S>

Rescueflyer

I have been running a Q35 in a Hangar 9 Taylorcraft (older model) and have had a blast with it. Easy to start and a deep rich sound. I also am working on a Bud Nosen Gere Sport that I have a Q50 for. I agree with you that a classic motor is good for a classic plane.
Will

exciter900rr

Thanks for the revival! It reminds me to get back to work on mine!!!!!