bh307

My Feedback: (143)

Glad to have you onboard Muskoka dad .
I have been very busy this last month and have not done any work on my plane I am hopeing to start back this weekend should have some more pictures and post up by then.
I have also order my cowl from hobbybarn will get some pictures of it posted as so as it goes in.
Thanks
Billy

Muskoka dad

My Feedback: (5)

Hey Billy is that you that is doing a short kit? There is one on evil bay now but its over $200.00 plus shipping.  A club member had a10 footer ; man   every one would stop to watch it.  Too bad it went into a swamp . I did not know that Bob nelitz lived in my backyard 'almost.  Lt pierce that posted a few pages ago said he used to test fly them' that would have been neat.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Thank you        Ewan

frank99

My Feedback: (29)

did you get any snow ? cant wait till you get on the fuse servos and mount the stab, that is where iam stuck and want to be sure thanks frank

bh307

My Feedback: (143)

Hi Ewan
I am doing the test build for the short kit for a-m models .
short kits are ready for anyone who needs one cut.

$190 plus packing and shipping .The dummy engine will cost $30 to be cut plus packing and shipping

Please contact Alex Guzman at:

by email: [email protected]

Thanks

Billy

bh307

My Feedback: (143)

Hi Frank
I hope I will start getting more time to work on it so Can get to the fuse. I think the cage and gear is where I am going to get stuck.

Billy

misterbill

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Frank - here are some shots of the stab installation as per the Nelitz plans - hope this helps you out.
Not too difficult, and you do get the ability to vary the incidence on the stab if you ever need to!

It's not a rigid setup (there is flex from side to side), but that's what the tail support stays are for. And it's perfect when they're in place.

Cheers, Mike

Muskoka dad

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks for that info Billy. I will contact Alex when my beaver is done. I got a texan short kit from him a few years ago,he does very good work.                    Yes Frank if you were talking to me, we have about one and a half feet on the ground and all the lakes are frozen solid, -25 this morning.

frank99

My Feedback: (29)

mister bill and i mean Mister. this is what i have been loking for, might be in trouble, i think i have missing parts. I can get brass tube for the back , but the front mouting parts i do not have, Is this called a jack screw? adustable later on ,is ther a panel to make for adustments? YOUR work is super,more questions , my stab is sloted for hinges, yours looks 100% scale.Any ideal where to get the front metal parts or do we make them? post some more pics of the stab and your fuse!!!!! never tire looking at cubs ,I have 6 , 3 sigs 1/4, simple to build, and smaller ones too, thanks a ton frank

misterbill

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Frank - you're most of the way there....are you working off the Nelitz plans, because all the details of the front fixing are there. And yes, there are some metal bits you have to make (but really only the one).

Firstly though it looks as if your tube at the back (the 11/32" one that goes inside the 3/8 one that's fastened to the rear bracket, and the 3/8 ones at the back of the stab), might need to be a tad longer. It has to go into the tubes at the back of the spar all the way till it touches the dowel.

Same at the front.

It's not a jackscrew, but rather a tab with several holes, that's welded almost at the center of the 3/8 tube. This tube is between the two 3/8 tubes at the front of the stab, and goes over the 11/32 tube that joins the lot together.
Sounds confusing I know, but it's pretty clear on the drawing. Bob put on all the lengths of these tubes on the drawing - follow them and your stab will be exactly the correct distance apart.

If you don't have the details, let me know & I'll post the section in question.

Cheers, Mike

misterbill

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Frank - thought I'd save some time - here are the details in case you don't have them.

With the hinges, you could consider tracking down some CB hinges to go into the slots - they'll look almost as scale as the metal versions.

Cheers, Mike

frank99

My Feedback: (29)

your are the MAN. move to a new house and stuff is in attic and boxes ,lost shop because of the move.yes nelitz plans and time to go to the hobby shop, did you make your brass hinges?, is it to late to use them nice very nice,maybe i should stay with the eflight l-4, naw never give UP, thanks a mil frank

bh307

My Feedback: (143)

Mike
You work looks alsome please post more pictures of you cub. A picture saids a thousand words.

Thanks
Billy

Muskoka dad

My Feedback: (5)

Got the plans today and orderd the short kit.   What are you guys using for the landing gear?   I read that the robarts is two wide and had to widen the fuse. Has any one done that  or is there a  better way for the gear?                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

misterbill

My Feedback: (2)

Ewan - build it yourself, just follow the plans. Every other Cub is too wide, and you surely can see the difference. Perhaps you could narrow a Robart, or get the Balsa USA bits and mod that (it wouldn't be too hard) - but then you have to change the bottom of the fus, etc., etc.

Check my earlier posting for what the metalwork looks like - takes a little work but is really worth it. And hey, we're Canadian so we're used to battling through, eh?

Cheers, Mike

bh307

My Feedback: (143)

Got my cowl in from HobbyBarn yesterday looks very nice and has the marks for the cut outs

Muskoka dad

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks for the info Misterbill. I back and read everything again and didn't see were you talk about the gear. I have noticed another thread doing the same cub and they talked quiet abit about the gear' was it maybe there? I will try to find it again. Ewan

bh307

My Feedback: (143)

Ewan
Go here to see the gear

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_89...tm.htm#9403469

bh307

My Feedback: (143)

Ewan
If you do not want to make your own gear . this guy will custom make them for you.

http://cublandinggear.com/Home_Page.php

bh307

My Feedback: (143)

ok got a little time today to finish my hings and the aileron control horn.

Muskoka dad

My Feedback: (5)

bh307

My Feedback: (143)

I f you need Cub decals go here they a real nice and are only 3.99 each. just tell him you want them 2.54” W x 2.94” H

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT


Thanks
Billy

LT Pierce

Hello There:

Four Cub Decals for $10.00, Originals from the Nelitz Collection.
Pm me if interested.

sticktickler

Here are my decals on a 1/3 Cub looking just too sweet. I provide everything you need with the lightning bolt and the N-numbers of your choice even a few nomenclature markings.

misterbill

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Frank - here's how I handled the installation in the fus if this helps you at all.

There's a Sullivan carbon pushrod to the elevator, and there will be cables to the rudder from the bellcrank that used to be a large HD Hitec servo arm. To be run much later.
The paper drawing tacked to the fus side is the scale rear seat position, I wanted to ensure that everything was behind it.

At the front, I moved the firewall back to where the fullsize is and then fitted the G45 plus mount on a box arrangement. This allows the tank to be contained in the scale dummy tank, and be removed when the whole motor mount and tank shelf slide out forward.

This also has allowed for the throttle servo to be mounted on the side wall of the cockpit, with a direct run to the carb. The yellow pushrod/flex cable is to operate the choke, which I made an extra quadrant for so it was easier to actuate. You'll see that in one of the pix. It will be operated manually by the 'mixture' knob on the panel.

I have a 90 degree bend on the carb to keep it all inside the cowl, and a B&B extension behind the prop driver so the Zenoah sits back far enough for the same reason.

Hope that helps you keep moving...
Cheers, Mike

frank99

My Feedback: (29)

I just won the lotto thank a million frank