jbarnes

The 100cc is being displayed at the AMA show in a couple of weeks. Guess there will be a official announcement of it then. Its based off a full scale cub called the Carbon Cub. http://www.cubcrafters.com/carboncubss/ wingspan is 14 feet and the fuse I would guess is about 7 foot. Looked real nice. Constucted like the S2 but with more a little more detail. Jerry.

slpnGIANT

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I just e-mailed them. I'll let ya know what they say. I only wanna drill once, thank you very much.

Thought I would upload a couple pics of the nice engine mounting plates I got. Nice and straight huh?!!

davidj

My engine mounting plates were also warped. I have not tried to dewarp them yet. The one for the DA is not so bad but the universal one is as bad or worse than yours

slpnGIANT

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Yea my universal plate is the worst also. I think if I clamp the da-dl one to the thick one it will be ok. Amazing how two pieces of laminated ply can get so warped isnt it?

slpn

tommydaspad

same here, my plates were warped and using a dle 55 with the template it is too low and too much to the left (from behind). Also a flap doesnt sit right back up as the hinges are too far in and the rudder and elevators have warps.

On the bright side im in the uk and it only cost me $1091 of your lovley dollars and that was ordered when they had a sale which didnt apply to the uk.

SHAFTED!!!!!

Hope it flys well as it has cost a fortune, very dissapointed for the money.

slpnGIANT

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Oh you guys are gonna love this, the fella from Aeroworks said, "It must be that EVERYONE that built an S2 Cub let the motor plate move while they were drilling the holes thats why their motors don't line up with the cowl". He also said that they sold 100's, thats right 100's of these planes and also that the complaints that we have addressed here, were by the same guys in all 3 of the bigger RC forums. So apparently out of those 100's we are the only ones that have had problems or go to forum's. At this point I don't know what to say, im dumbfounded.

I was told that they randomly took a plane (or planes) out of the boxes and drilled the firewalls and the crankshaft to cowl fit was spot on. I was also told on the issue of the warped motor plates that they were working on a fix, and as far as our motor plates were concerned we could clamp them down to a flat surface, wet the wood and let it dry while clamped and that should straighten them out. That was pretty much the end of our conversation.

Well I will say this, about that, on the moving of the motor plate issue, I personally have been building for 40+ years, and I know theres know way that the motor plate could move during drilling. Come on, really, the motor wouldn't know more than a man in the moon line up with the holes to even put the bolts in. If the plate moved during drilling you would have a mess. Nothing would fit, nothing would line up, period. When I drill something like a firewall to mount the motor, I look everything over and over, to make sure its perfect every hole every time, and I think most modelers would do the same. Geez its got a cross burned into the firewall and the motor plate, line em up and drill. Oh, but make sure ya unwarp those motor plates or it probably won't line up, lol

The bottom line is, right up until now, all i've heard about Aeroworks has been good. Thats why I bought one. Everything you (few) guys have posted is another reason I bought this plane. Over on RCG the pics were great. Other than the motor lining up issue, the landing gear deal, (which is now fixed in my kit anyway) and a couple other small things it is a nice kit. Chinese builders are what they are, its kind of a luck of the draw thing on how nice of model you get, like how well the covering is put on, how much glue they use, etc. Sometimes you get a pristine one, sometimes not. But the comments that were made about the drilling of the firewall and such, didn't go to far with me. I can't choke it. I considered maybe with a kit that ( I thought) came out of the states that I might be able to get a straight answer if I needed help with something and not have to practice my chinglish, but thats what I get for thinking.

slpn

hhal7

I am also building the Aeroworks Cub. My engine mounting plates look like the ones you guys have. My flaps did not come all the way up to line up with the ailerons due to the hinges being set too deep. When I called AW, they told me to heat the hinges with my heat iron and gradually stretch them. It took me about two hours per side, but I finally got the flaps to come to full up. In general, the plane is built very well and all my stab and rudder is straight. I'm looking forward to getting it in the air. I hope it performs as well as I've heard.

slpnGIANT

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hhal7

Was wondering if you have drilled for your motor yet?, and what motor are you going to be using? Im a little nervous to drill as of right now. Im trying to see if I can figure out a way to check my engine to cowl lineup without having to drill, then find out its wrong and have to redrill.

I think what im going to do is take some small construction screws put one in each of the top holes in the motor with the stand offs, then stick the cowl up to the fuse and see where im at. Unless somebody has a better idea.

I guess I could ask one of the fellas that have already been down that primrose lane but im probably better off figuring it out for myself.

Goodluck with your build hhal7, glad to know about that flap fix. That is one ive never heard of before. Thats the kinda stuff thats nice to be able to call someone and actually get some help that works. Way cool.

slpn

Zippi

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slpnGIANT,

Wild Hare Rc has a good way of installing the engine to line up with the cowl. Their instruction manual have you stand the plane on it's tail and secure it to your work bench. Next you use a very small amount of CA and glue the stand-offs to the engine. Next set the engine with stand-offs on the engine block and carefully install the cowl. Now you can move the engine around until you fine dead center. Once you have the engine where you want it carefully remove the cowl and mark the stand-off location. You should be able to apply this same procedure to the Cub. I should have done this when I put mine together.

slpnGIANT

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Thx for the reply Zippy

I was hoping you might see our frustration and answer. I appreciate it. One of the MAIN reasons I started inquiring about this whole motor issue was because of your build threads. I know you have been around models for a while and for somebody to say the motor plate moved while drilling, I thought was absurd, as you probably read.

Anyway hmmm, stand the fuse on end huh, that sounds logical accept with my luck the whole shootin match would end up on the floor, lol. I will definately keep that as an option. Maybe I could get a modeling buddy to come hold it for me. Right now I got the motor plates clamped up to straighten them out. I'll post back on how it turns out. Once again Zip, I appreciate your response. Everything you had a problem with, I will not, because of your posting, and thats what its all about. Live and learn on them build threads.

slpn

Zippi

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slpnGIANT,

I used the stand on tail method a couple times with WH planes and it works great. Here is what I took out of one of their online manuals.

If precise alignment is important to you we suggest that you use the “stand on its tail� technique.
In using this method you stand the fuselage upright with the firewall pointing up, then
set your engine on the firewall, put the cowl on, put the spinner on the prop shaft and move
the engine around to get the spinner centered. This usually involves several iterations of adjustment
to get it exactly right. Once it’s correctly positioned mark the position and drill holes
for mounting the engines.
This is a time consuming process but can yield better results.

slpnGIANT

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To bad I didn't know about the stand on tail method before I put the rudder on. That would a made things a whole bunch easier.

slpn

hhal7

slpnGIANT,

I have not yet drilled for my mounts, but, if my plans don"t change, I can give you the report on how it goes on two planes by Sunday afternoon. One of my flying buddies is also working on the AW cub and if nothing changes we will mount both engines this weekend. I have used the tail down method in the past, but it really works better, to me, with two people. We are planning on taking a DA50 template and lining it up on the scribed lines on the FW rather than using the warped, pre-drilled mount. Our thinking being that we will eliminate any error caused by the warping in the mounting block.

slpnGIANT

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hhal7

Take those mounting blocks, get em good and wet, then clamp to sompin flat, let em dry out and they should be fine. Yea we will be waitin for that report. I hope your motors line up dead nuts.
That will help me make my decision on how to drill for my DA 50

slpn

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

slpnGIANT,

Another issue I had was the bolts that hold the main gear on. Even with blue loctite the bolts would back out. I bought longer bolts, cleaned them with denatured alcohol and loctite again. Seem to hold up so far. I also can not keep the custom muffer I got from Aeroworks to stay tight. What I normally use is Permatex Hight-Temp RTV Silicon Gasget Maker. Never had an issue with it until now. I tried Red Loctite which did not work either. Come Spring I'm going to try epoxy.

slpnGIANT

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I would see if you can get some holes in the bolts holding the muffler on and then safety wire them. I remember your landing gear bolt issues. I will check that out when I get to that point. Thx again. I bought the K&S canister & header (with smoke nipple ) and it was damn expensive. I hope it works out ok.

slpn

GPutt33

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My DA-50 drill guide plate was warped exactly like the pics above. I used a couple pieces of aluminum I had and clamped it down, then soaked the whole thing in hot water for awhile. I let it dry over night and it turned out perfect. I lined up the guide exactly on the lines an went ahead and drilled it out. Because the camera wasn't lined up exactly it looks like a couple of the lines are a little off, but they are all lined up exactly. I'll let you know how the cowl lines up when I get to that point. I had to use a 1/2" worth of spacers on each standoff to get the 7 7/8" from the hub. It's snowing out so hard right now and is suppose to last through tomorrow I think I'll have a whole day tomorrow to work on it other then the time it takes to get the snow blower out and dig things out

Zippi

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The muffler bolts are conter sunk inside the muffler. The bolt heads are not exposed.

slpnGIANT

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Gputt33

Looks nice, let me know as soon as you check that cowl to crank line up, and etc.

Zippi

Theres gotta be a way to keep those bolts tight. I don't think epox will work though. Let me kick it around a little. Im going to fly tomorrow with a bunch of world class pilots. I'll see if I can't get their two bits worth.

slpn

Zippi

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slpnGIANT,

I got to thinking about the bolts in the muffler and once again going off memory has failed me again . I looked back at some old pics and one bolt head is clearly exposed and one is partly exposed. May have to take a look at drilling the bolt heads for safty wire.

One other issue I had and you can see them in the pic. The two silver windshield rods came loose. One just came loose and the other one fell out inside the fuse. You may want to put a drop of epoxy on each end as a safty measure.

slpnGIANT

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Zippi

Thx for the tip on windshield rods i'll dab em up a little.

Looks like theres enough bolt head there. Those allen head cap srews are some hard muthas. If you can't drill it, you can take your dremel tool, with a cut off wheel, and just cut into the head right at one corners of the hex. As soon as the wheel comes through on the inside where your allen would go, stop. Use it like a drilled hole, run some s/s wire through it, then twist the safety wire all the way to the head of the other exhaust bolt and do the same thing and that should take care of ya.

Let me know how it works.

slpn

Zippi

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slpnGIANT,

Thanks for the info. My Cub is pickled for the winter. Won't see it again until Spring.

GPutt33

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Well I'm up through completeing the throttle and choke. Here is what I'm planning on doing to the instrument panel. This is just printed out on standard paper, cut out and placed for right now to see how it would fit and look. I need to find the plastic that is printable and sticky on the back. I think it will make a nice difference. I checked the metal shafts and sure enough, the left one popped right out. I epoxied that one back in when I was doing the throttle servo tray and dabbed some on the right hand one just to make sure.

Zippi

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GPutt33,

Looks like that engine setup is working out fine. Can't wait to hear the report about the bigger Cub coming out. Don't have anyway to haul it but boy I wish I did .

slpnGIANT

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Gputt33

How does the spinner line up with the cowl. Got any pics? Sure would like to see that if you can pull it off.

Thx slpn