stevegauth30

I'm not sure if I'm even calling them by the right names,. I'm converting a Top Flite corsair 60 to electric and have a question on mounting the motor. I have been building and flying for a few years now, but its my first conversion, and my first electric that wasn't an arf or foamie. I need to make up almost three inches to get the prop out of the cowl. With my gas planes I would simply frame an engine box off of the fire wall. Is this common practice with electrics? I see a lot of guys using what I would call "stand off's " on they're electrics. What is better? Can you get them any length you need? Or do you get them as close as you can and adjust the cowl?i hope these questions don't seem dumb, but I am kind of like a noob when it comes to bigger electrics. Thanks to who ever puts they're two cents in. Steve.

blvdbuzzard

What ever is easier for you. I have used both without an issue.

Here is how I converted my Low Wing Trainer. It is 10-32 threaded rod, hex nuts, nylok nuts, blind nuts, PEX tubing and fender washers.

Buzz.

stevegauth30

Is that PEX tubing the stuff they sell at Home Depot? Because that would be a lot easier than making a box, I would think.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

I also make my own stand-offs for electric. I use heavy walled aluminum tube,fender washers and smaller washers,long cap-head bolts and blind nuts.
You can also buy the adjustable motor mounts if you want. I have used them a few times as well..
http://www.headsuphobby.com/Adjustab...arge-D-576.htm

blvdbuzzard

The PEX tubing is the same one from the Depot or Lowes. I picked up the 5 foot for $7.00 or something like that.

Buzz.

P.S. EZ button.

aymodeler

My Feedback: (3)

That is one of the advantages of electric, smoother operation lets you use mounting techniques and materials that would not hold up with a glow or gas engine (both simpler and lighter). One thing to watch with PEX is inadvertently introducing thrust offset due to the plastic standoffs compressing unevenly due to uneven tension in the mounting bolts (this can literally "creep" in slowly over time).

stevegauth30

I ended up getting a length of thick walled aluminum at my LHS and some threaded rod. I made a jig and cut them on a chop saw and managed to get them all the EXACT. Length with perfectly square cuts. Wasn't too bad at all. Thanks for the advice all. BTW, I ended up making a sub-fire wall, if you will, and used the old holes and blind nuts. Much easier.

aymodeler

My Feedback: (3)

If you have a moment, post a pic of your jig ... I've thought about doing something similar and would love to see what you came up with.