.10 to electric
#1
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.10 to electric
I have a Ranger 42 made by Goldberg. It calls for a .10 gas. I'd like to run it electric.
I also would like it to be direct drive due to space limitations. Plane weighs 30oz.
has 42" span, 31" lenght 240sq.in wing area.
based on some reading that I've done, I've chosen a Graupner 500 GR1799 swinging a 8x4.5 prop direct drive. My question is: how far off am I?
Thanks,
Carl
I also would like it to be direct drive due to space limitations. Plane weighs 30oz.
has 42" span, 31" lenght 240sq.in wing area.
based on some reading that I've done, I've chosen a Graupner 500 GR1799 swinging a 8x4.5 prop direct drive. My question is: how far off am I?
Thanks,
Carl
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RE: .10 to electric
I'm trying the same thing with a rebuilt .10 trainer. it has a flat wing semi symmetrical airfoil and weights 2 lbs(32oz.) I,m going to try a mega 22/30/3 with 45amp esc and a 10 cell 3000nimh sub-c, hopefully it will fly with as much grace as it did glow powered, any one have some ideas it would be appreciated. I'm pretty much have to stick with this motor bit help is great
#4
RE: .10 to electric
Hi guys!
Speed500 is heavy and low on power, get a real setup and enjoy the power of electric flying! yes, I know, it costs a bit more, but you will love your motor =)
I fly a 1/12 Spitfire (aircombat, meant for .15 power) on a Mega 16/15/3 swinging a 7x6 prop. li-po battery, kokam 2s2p 3270mah. this gives me .15+ power for 20min and low weight.
the 16/15/3 is not even warm after a 10min full power aircombat session. and it should´t be at only 200watts
finchero,
a 22/30/3 is very muck overkill for a .10 plane, that motor is to compare to a 50 2t or 70FS, on 10cells it delivers up to 2,5kg thrust or more, depending on which prop you use. if you have´t bought the equipment yet, get a 16/15/X and run it on 7cells. othervise, get a .40 trainer
hope this helps
Speed500 is heavy and low on power, get a real setup and enjoy the power of electric flying! yes, I know, it costs a bit more, but you will love your motor =)
I fly a 1/12 Spitfire (aircombat, meant for .15 power) on a Mega 16/15/3 swinging a 7x6 prop. li-po battery, kokam 2s2p 3270mah. this gives me .15+ power for 20min and low weight.
the 16/15/3 is not even warm after a 10min full power aircombat session. and it should´t be at only 200watts
finchero,
a 22/30/3 is very muck overkill for a .10 plane, that motor is to compare to a 50 2t or 70FS, on 10cells it delivers up to 2,5kg thrust or more, depending on which prop you use. if you have´t bought the equipment yet, get a 16/15/X and run it on 7cells. othervise, get a .40 trainer
hope this helps
#5
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RE: .10 to electric
carlP,
After reading your Ranger 42 post I dug through my files and came up with some interesting comparisions I thought might be of interest to you. In the Nov. 1975 RCM Roland Boucher, of Astro Flight, wrote about their conversion of a Ranger 42 to electric
in his "Quiet Revolution" column on electrics.
He said the motor they used was an Astro 05 ferrite. I compared the 05 Astro with the Graupner Speed 500 and found that both motors weigh 5.5 oz, and both have the same physical dimensions. Astro recommended the 05 for models weighing about 32 oz, with a wing area of 250 to 350 Sq. In. It was ideally suited to the Ranger 42 which had just come on the market, so by comparison, your Ranger and a Speed 500 should work just as well and be a good match.
Equipment available in those days was a bit bulkier and heavier than today's stuff. Boucher didn't give any figures on all up weight, but remembering what I had in mine compared to what we have today, performance would surely improve.
Boucher congratulated Carl Goldberg on the Ranger 42 saying it was a very positive contribution to electric flight. I can believe it, it was one of my all time favorites. It just came along 28 years too soon. I'd like to see Goldberg bring it back as I have an electric motor that would fit it very well!
Hope this info is some help to you. Good luck.
After reading your Ranger 42 post I dug through my files and came up with some interesting comparisions I thought might be of interest to you. In the Nov. 1975 RCM Roland Boucher, of Astro Flight, wrote about their conversion of a Ranger 42 to electric
in his "Quiet Revolution" column on electrics.
He said the motor they used was an Astro 05 ferrite. I compared the 05 Astro with the Graupner Speed 500 and found that both motors weigh 5.5 oz, and both have the same physical dimensions. Astro recommended the 05 for models weighing about 32 oz, with a wing area of 250 to 350 Sq. In. It was ideally suited to the Ranger 42 which had just come on the market, so by comparison, your Ranger and a Speed 500 should work just as well and be a good match.
Equipment available in those days was a bit bulkier and heavier than today's stuff. Boucher didn't give any figures on all up weight, but remembering what I had in mine compared to what we have today, performance would surely improve.
Boucher congratulated Carl Goldberg on the Ranger 42 saying it was a very positive contribution to electric flight. I can believe it, it was one of my all time favorites. It just came along 28 years too soon. I'd like to see Goldberg bring it back as I have an electric motor that would fit it very well!
Hope this info is some help to you. Good luck.
#7
RE: .10 to electric
2s2p, pulling 40A or so... 6600mah which equals only 6C. motor handles it very well, not even warm. I´ll try to dig out a video too.
BTW, those cells are maybe speced a bit lower, but seem to handle this power well. so far pushing the li-pos have only resulted in shorter life of the cells. I try to keep them under 40C after a flight. have been fine so far.
BTW, those cells are maybe speced a bit lower, but seem to handle this power well. so far pushing the li-pos have only resulted in shorter life of the cells. I try to keep them under 40C after a flight. have been fine so far.
#9
RE: .10 to electric
I only know that I fly 17min on full power and the motor is cold. and I know what motorcals tells me...
will check on wattmeter soon.
I was a bit surprised my self that the little motor could perform that well. this is the key to Electric air combat within the rules simply, 1:12 plane, AUW min 700g, and 7x6 prop (sum is 13, 9x4, 7x6, etc...)
recomendations... I won´t tell how fast I charge my li-pos then...
will check on wattmeter soon.
I was a bit surprised my self that the little motor could perform that well. this is the key to Electric air combat within the rules simply, 1:12 plane, AUW min 700g, and 7x6 prop (sum is 13, 9x4, 7x6, etc...)
recomendations... I won´t tell how fast I charge my li-pos then...
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RE: .10 to electric
Goldberg makes or has made the 550 thrustmaster, with prop. It should be perfect. I find them on E-BAY and bought one for 12.00 plus shipping.
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RE: .10 to electric
I'm converting a House of Balsa 43" P-51, and need to know about a power plant. I thought about an AXI 2820/10 using a 3s2p 1500mah kokam battery with a 10-6 prop. Does this sound like to much?
Darrell
Darrell
#14
RE: .10 to electric
Hi
28XX Axi is not good.... sure it spinns, but it is an old design, also I heard many throw magnets.
3s2p sounds about right. I would use a mega 16/15 or 16/25 those in my mind better for your plane
28XX Axi is not good.... sure it spinns, but it is an old design, also I heard many throw magnets.
3s2p sounds about right. I would use a mega 16/15 or 16/25 those in my mind better for your plane
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RE: .10 to electric
Hey, i love my AXI 2820/10! There was a problem with them throwing magnets, apparently a run with bad glue, but the new ones have the magnets secured in ridges with better glue. Not sure what you mean 'its an old design', its still pretty efficient for a brushless motor. Arent they newer than all the Hacker and mega designs? They are still very good motors. May be a bit overkill for you plane though.
Jonathan
Jonathan
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RE: .10 to electric
Jonathan,
I don't want to dance it on its tale or anything like that, it is just that I don't want it to be under powered.
Darrell[sm=thumbup.gif]
I don't want to dance it on its tale or anything like that, it is just that I don't want it to be under powered.
Darrell[sm=thumbup.gif]
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RE: .10 to electric
The AXI may work very well for your 'Stang. I actually have one of these HOB mustangs too that ive never finished that i was planning to power with a geared Endoplasma, but now i have a Jeti 30/3 and 2820/10 that could do very well, but i have to build my Apache first. Lots of people have used these 2 motors in the Apache, which is basically a slim-downed Mustang-ish sport plane. The HOB mustang has the same span as the Apache, so it should work pretty well. Ive used this motor to power a 71 inch Rascal 40 fairly well, should be able to yank a much smaller and lighter plane around.
#18
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RE: .10 to electric
Hi All,
I'm going to revive this old post by saying that - My Ranger 42 is flying electric.
I did not plan on the setup, it just worked out because I hate to have parts laying around..
I bought the Master Airscrew 05 gearbox and a 12X8 folding prop last summer with the intention to make an electric power pod for my glider.. Well, after some other projects that are flying great, I still had the motor/switch combo sitting around from an old Goldberg Electra, the gearbox and prop..
Then at my Club Christmas party, I traded a guy some wood clamps for the Ranger 42.. My dad and I had this kit back in the 80's, but we never got it flying because we did not want the foam to melt from the fuel.. I started that kit, I wonder where it ever got to...
Any way, I HATE to have stuff sitting around and not flying, so I went to work on the Ranger..
I opened the firewall and bottom to fit the motor just below the centerline. Then I drilled two dowel holes through the top of the firewall with some down and right thrust built in (by eyeball method). The dowel holes were started small, and then opened to 1/4-inch so the bottom of the holes just open up to the carved out firewall/motor space.. I glued the dowels into the firewall the the remaining foam at the top..
I used flex pushrods with the servo's double-sided taped to the fuse sides.. I have a standard 4 channel FM Rx on velcro up front. I changed the stock elevator and rudder (foam) to some balsa tapered stock I had in the box and used the Dubro Hinge tape to hold them on, using the "Monokote" hinge method where you taper one side of the hinge and then use tape on both sides.
The powere is standard 1500 mAh car batteries.. I did not want to buy anything new, just the stuff we use in the car and boat..
I was going to use the on/off switch, but went and bought the Wattage IC-30A Electric Motor Control.. What a great little control (I'll write that up on a separate note)..
Well, everything fit in the plane, I finished it by putting strapping tape under the wing for strenght and along the bottom for landing protection (No wheels).. I painted it all red (well, pinkish red) with the foam-safe paint from the Craft Store where my wife shopps. The total weight with batteries was 35.2 ounces... The flying weight marked on the box said between 26 and 36 ounces.
I took it out to fly... MAN WAS I HAPPY With It!!!!!!
I haven't timed it yet, but the flights are about 10 minutes per pack.. Some climbing time, some at 1/2 power just cruiz'n, and some glide time with the prop folded back...
I did learn my first lesson about launches on the second battery pack... Don't give the plane a lazy throw - It does need some speed to fly smooth - and that cost me my first folding prop blade..
I have also now used an APC 12X6 slow-fly prop and the plane loves that also, but it does not glide as well without the folding prop. I was much more cautious with the fixed prop launches and took 3 or 4 fast steps and kind of let the plane rise out of my hand more than a simple throw..
ANY Way... I just looked for the Ranger 42 via search and saw this post.. If you are thinking about it.. Mine worked fine and was very fun..
There is also a guy at the park flying a Lanier fun-fly with a brushless/LiPoly setup... His does get about 25 minutes out of the 3 packs in the plane and it does fly better. BUT, for the car packs and motor setup I have, you may have trouble deciding which setup was better for a day in the park <G>...
Write me a note if you have any questions..
Blue Skies
I'm going to revive this old post by saying that - My Ranger 42 is flying electric.
I did not plan on the setup, it just worked out because I hate to have parts laying around..
I bought the Master Airscrew 05 gearbox and a 12X8 folding prop last summer with the intention to make an electric power pod for my glider.. Well, after some other projects that are flying great, I still had the motor/switch combo sitting around from an old Goldberg Electra, the gearbox and prop..
Then at my Club Christmas party, I traded a guy some wood clamps for the Ranger 42.. My dad and I had this kit back in the 80's, but we never got it flying because we did not want the foam to melt from the fuel.. I started that kit, I wonder where it ever got to...
Any way, I HATE to have stuff sitting around and not flying, so I went to work on the Ranger..
I opened the firewall and bottom to fit the motor just below the centerline. Then I drilled two dowel holes through the top of the firewall with some down and right thrust built in (by eyeball method). The dowel holes were started small, and then opened to 1/4-inch so the bottom of the holes just open up to the carved out firewall/motor space.. I glued the dowels into the firewall the the remaining foam at the top..
I used flex pushrods with the servo's double-sided taped to the fuse sides.. I have a standard 4 channel FM Rx on velcro up front. I changed the stock elevator and rudder (foam) to some balsa tapered stock I had in the box and used the Dubro Hinge tape to hold them on, using the "Monokote" hinge method where you taper one side of the hinge and then use tape on both sides.
The powere is standard 1500 mAh car batteries.. I did not want to buy anything new, just the stuff we use in the car and boat..
I was going to use the on/off switch, but went and bought the Wattage IC-30A Electric Motor Control.. What a great little control (I'll write that up on a separate note)..
Well, everything fit in the plane, I finished it by putting strapping tape under the wing for strenght and along the bottom for landing protection (No wheels).. I painted it all red (well, pinkish red) with the foam-safe paint from the Craft Store where my wife shopps. The total weight with batteries was 35.2 ounces... The flying weight marked on the box said between 26 and 36 ounces.
I took it out to fly... MAN WAS I HAPPY With It!!!!!!
I haven't timed it yet, but the flights are about 10 minutes per pack.. Some climbing time, some at 1/2 power just cruiz'n, and some glide time with the prop folded back...
I did learn my first lesson about launches on the second battery pack... Don't give the plane a lazy throw - It does need some speed to fly smooth - and that cost me my first folding prop blade..
I have also now used an APC 12X6 slow-fly prop and the plane loves that also, but it does not glide as well without the folding prop. I was much more cautious with the fixed prop launches and took 3 or 4 fast steps and kind of let the plane rise out of my hand more than a simple throw..
ANY Way... I just looked for the Ranger 42 via search and saw this post.. If you are thinking about it.. Mine worked fine and was very fun..
There is also a guy at the park flying a Lanier fun-fly with a brushless/LiPoly setup... His does get about 25 minutes out of the 3 packs in the plane and it does fly better. BUT, for the car packs and motor setup I have, you may have trouble deciding which setup was better for a day in the park <G>...
Write me a note if you have any questions..
Blue Skies