Sean Plummer

The battery tray is now finished by adding velcro straps prior to gluing. Use a scroll saw or razor saw to cut slots for the velcro straps. Be sure to smooth any sharp edges that may cut the velcro over time.

Note: 2 holes are drilled directly over the landing gear to acces the landing gear mounting screws

Sean Plummer

The tray is glued to the "Wing Tube" and the landing gear formers. Prepare gussets using balsa, use the aluminum wing tube as a sanding block by applying adhesive sand paper directly to the wing tube. carefully rough-up the wing tube and landing gear formers prior to gluing. Use Slow epoxy to glue the Battery Tray and gussets into position. Note: Install the wing joiner into the tube while the tray is glued to enure a strong and proper shaped bond.

Sean Plummer

Install vecro to floor of the battery tray. Also install the primary battery straps so they wrap around the wing tube and over the Batteries totally securing them to the airframe as shown in the pics. Also install velcro to both the top and bottom of the batteries alowing the velco to "Grip" from the tray and the straps.

gjdeluca

Hi,

I've been following your project with much interest. I was wondering if you could explain the battery specs for your project. You said you will use 2 sets of 10s3p lipos. What is the output voltage of this setup? What is the mah capacity of this setup? Do the packs come assembled as 10s3p?

Thank you.

Greg

Mike Parsons

Greg,
The packs are built as 5S3P's and joined to form the 10s3p (4 total packs of 5s3p). Each C50 motor gets one 10s3p to power it as well as a Hackermaster 90 ESC (I am assuming Shawn will use the 90's over the HM77). Essentially it is a 20s3p setup if you want to look at it as a whole. 3P= 6000 mah. I would estimate the watts to be around ~4000?

-Mike

gjdeluca

Ok, thanks. I hope I get a chance to see a video of this plane fly. The setup looks really neat.

Sean Plummer

Next the Motor Dome is modified to clear the battery tray. A belt sander or dremel tool can be used. The belt sander tilted vertically works well. Cut away the " Muffler Tunnel" on the Motor Dome until the battery tray does not touch the Motor Dome when it is installed.

Sean Plummer

Direct Solder the ESC to the motors( I do not recommend connectors from the motor to the ESC). Extend the ESC battery wires 4" using high quality 12 gauge silcone wire. Be sure all of the solder connections are properly performed using a 40 watt or equivalent Soldering Iron. Use Deans "Ultra" connectors for the battery connection.


Note: The battery tray position and Motor Dome modification.

Sean Plummer

The Thunder Power (http://www.thunderpower-batteries.com) Lithium Polymer 5S3P 6000 mAh batteries are wired in series, with one set to each motor (10S3P) . Wire the controllers as shown with a "Series Jumper" using 2 Deans Ultra connectors and short piece of wire. The batteries are charged in the 5S3P configuration then connected in series for the actual flights.

Note the location of the connections making it easy to reach the connectors.

Sean Plummer

quick and easy battery access is a must for any electric model. The Compsite-Arf 2.3m Extra allows this to be accomplished by modifing the mounting method of the stock canopy frame. Normally the canopy frame is mounted with 6 tabs/allen screws through the side of the fuselage, this fine if you don't mind removing the screws each flight. Another method is to use spring loaded latches and pins.

Using the Viojett "Hatch Pin Set #5515" and 2 of the "Hatch Latch #5510" (http://www.bvmjets.com/) the Canopy Frame can be removed and installed in seconds. This system is designed for composite models.

Begin by mounting the Canopy frame to the model with masking tape. At the pin locations Drill 9/64" holes through the canopy frame in to the mating area on the fuselage as shown. At the front of the canopy drill the holes from inside of the fuselage into the canopy frame. Test fit the canopy frame/pins prior to gluing the pins into position. The back of the pins may be cut/sanded as needed. Use epoxy to glue the pins in position. Use 3 pins at the front of the frame, 2 pins at the middle and 2 pins at the rear of the frame.

Sean Plummer

after the canopy frame is fitted and pinned. Install the spring loaded "Hatch Latch" at the rear of the Turtle Deck. Begin by taping the frame in position. Carefully mark the spring pin location using a marker. Drill the opening into the fuselage on the mark. Next cut a slot in to the fuselage side for the hatch release to protrude. double check the position of the assembly, scuff all sufaces and clean with alcohol.

Tack the "Hatch Latch" with a couple of drops medium C/A for test fitting. With the Hatch Latch pin retracted install the canopy frame and repeatedly "snap" the pin into the canopy frame. The idea is to make a drilling mark on the canopy frame using the point of the spring loaded latch. Drill a recieving hole in the canopy frame. Repeat on the other side.

Once satisfied with the fit and function of the spring loaded latches, use epoxy to cover the flanges of Hatch latch ensuring it well secured to the fuselage.

Sean Plummer

The canopy is now glued into position as per the instructions, using plastic safe C/A. The canopy must be glued completely around the perimeter with the canopy frame in place. The masking tape "Handles" are used to pull the canopy against the frame for gluing.

Note: The Canopy/Frame on this design are considered structural components of the fuselage, However when the canopy is not in place the canopy opening and front of the turtle deck have considerable flexing. To reduce the flexing, Install 1/16" carbon rods as shown. This additional bracing makes the opening very solid.

Sean Plummer

On all radio controlled models it is important to prevent interference between the different components. In electric models the ESC is the most "Noisy" and the receiver/antenna must be mounted away from them.

Install the Reciever behind the rudder servo as shown using velcro. I chose the Futaba R149DP PCM (http://www.futaba-rc.com/radioaccys/futl26.html) receiver for this application. ALWAYS USE NAME BRAND PCM RECEIVERS ON THESE LARGE MODELS, THIS IS NOT A PARK FLYER....20+ LBS model out of control is totally unsafe!!

The 5cell 2700 mAh receiver battery is mounted using adhesive velcro and a velcro strap, in front of the rudder servo. Mount the Heavy Duty Futaba switch harness #FUTM4385 in the fuselage side above the wing, so it is easy to access for safety. Secure all plug connections using tape or floss.

Sean Plummer

Using a High Quality NAME BRAND computer radio, is important for both set-up and control of large models. I chose the Futaba T9CAP for this model. 9 channels, easy to program and all the dual servo functions all ready provided.The Futaba radio manual is also very easy to understand for these kinds of models.

The C-ARF instruction manual is very clear on the recommended C/G and control throws. Use thier recommendations for the first flight.

bruff

My Feedback: (18)

Sean, Looks good!
Bob

Sean Plummer

To ensure the motors run are synchronized as closely as possible, they must be "Clocked". Begin by removing the drive bell from the prop shaft. Connect the motor batteries with receiver switch OFF. Turn on the transmitter with throttle stick at the lowest position. Now turn receiver swith ON. A series of Beep tones will begin, the pinions will "jump" slightly during the tones. Do not advance the throttle, carefully mark the 12 O'clock positions on the pinions.

Turn OFF the reciever, DISCONNECT the batteries. Now test the postion of your marks by slightly turn each pinion and repeating the above steps. The pinions should come back to rest at the 12 O'clock positions.

Turn OFF the reciever, DISCONNECT the batteries.Carefully re-install the Gear drive bell, keeping the pinions aligned with the 12 O'clock marks. Install cowl, spinner and prop.

Sean Plummer

Master Hacker ESC Set-Up. Begin by removing the propellor. Using the Hacker Master ProgBox program EACH controller identically. The Progbox is NOT required for the Master Hacker controllers , however on larger models the adjustments will provide for the optimum performance of the drive system.

Sean Plummer

ESC set-up continues:

Sean Plummer

ESC Set-Up continues:

Sean Plummer

ESC Set-Up is finished:

Sean Plummer

The 2.3 Composite ARF is finished!!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The model is complete and ready to fly, 23LBS ALL UP WEIGHT.

The only thing left to do is "WHATT METER" checks at the field to ensure equal power on each motor. Will post that info soon.

Henke Torphammar

This thread is a goldmine Sean!! good luck when flying it!

how long is it in total? wonder if it fits in my Volvo S40 [:'(]

Darrell B.

I read in a thread about the Funtana 140 where someone was pinning the rudder to make it removable for transportation.

Sean Plummer

Got some first flight video, Actually 2nd pack as the first pack was simple trimming and amp checks.

Here's the video: http://rccraze.com/comparfextra.mpg

Full throttle=62-63 amps per motor
Prop Rpm= 26x15 APC-E@5140 static rpm!!! Guessing about 35lbs+ thrust?

This flight went well, all maneuvers kept up high for safety. (The low altitude 3D video will be coming soon). Looks like this sytem may able to do it all, IMAC, 3D and sport flying. Totally unlimited vertical climb at full roll rate straight up to a dot in the sky!

-Sean

John Murdoch

My Feedback: (11)

Sean... What else can a guy say but "WOW". Great Job. Now I'll have to re-read through this entire thread to see how you got here.