codimasta

My Feedback: (89)

I am thinking of replacing the .25 glow engines with Brushless motors.
Wing Span:72" Flying weight: 6.4 lbs.or..102.4 oz. , using the formula 150 X 6.4 = 960 watts.
Using 2 motors..is it devided, so that the motor I am looking for would be 480 watts?
Would an AXI 2820/12 work, or should I go to AXI 2826/10
What type of Brushless controller...I have a Castle Creations Phoenix-35...35 Amp controller.
It would require two controlers w/ two power packs (Lipoly).
I also have access to a Multiplex BL480/8 Direct drive unit...
Suggestions PLEASE....

Thanks..[8D]

Woody 51

A local R/C importer has done a very successful conversion of the C160 to Brushless power.
He flies it at "all electric" fly ins and the model goes like a cut cat when the throttle opened to max. (More like a pylon racer than a scale transport. Most unscale like)
He has installed 2 x HIMARK brushless motors in it.
You can see a pic of the model at

http://www.modelengines.com.au/aircraft%20gallery.htm

There is a "chat" section on their website where you can leave a question for them. I am sure that they will advise just what size Himarks they used if you ask.

codimasta

My Feedback: (89)

Thanks for the info...tried to get on the rc chat line....could not get into...tried registering...could nnot answer all the requirements...I wish these guys would make it easy to register...
I am trying to contact Mike Farnan who has the C-160 converted to brushless.

Thanks,

Larry
AMA 11269

codimasta

My Feedback: (89)

I must say that the help that I have received from various manufactures has been very helpful.
Hobby Lobby answered my request with a complete list of items that I would need, including some very helpful suggestion. Great service.
Questions regarding the brushless controllers was directed to Castle Creations, the help that I received was just great..making a suggestion that I use a large pack so that both engines see the same voltage all the time..recommended 7000-8000 mah pack. Also how to set the controller, ie..
soft Cut off, soft start etc.
Questions regarding what type of motors to use..AXI 2814/10..Hobby Lobby, Castle Creations and
Pacific Models all agreed that if was a good choice.
I will keep you all informed on the progress of this conversion.

EFisch

My Feedback: (1)

Any update on your Transall? I converted this model with 2820/10's but do to a ESC failure I lost the plane on its first flight. I would like to know how you extended your wires? Did you extend it between the ESC and batteries?

EFisch

My Feedback: (1)

Oh ya I forgot. I have a new one on the way.

codimasta

My Feedback: (89)

My speed control is mounted where the tank would be. I am using 12 ga. wire from the speed control to the batteries, using Deans Connectors ULTRA PLUGS. What type of speed control are you using ?..... At the present time I am waiting for another speed control (Phoenix-35).....had a bad one. Having a little trouble mounting the cowls....alignment.

I should have some pictures in a few days..

Larry
AMA 11269

EFisch

My Feedback: (1)

I made the mistake of using eflight 40 amp esc's. One of them stop working just after take off and I didn't realise it until the plane started to rolling and by then it was too late. I will be using CC 45's this next go around. I did manage almost one full circle and the take off was easy so I know the 2820's had more then enough power. It will be interesting to hear how the 2814 will work. They should have plenty of power.

Darrell B.

A friend in my club converted this plane using two of the 2826/10s, Jeti 40 Amp ESC, and two 3s4200 Thunderpower packs from Hobby Lobby. It flew very well. He placed the controllers in the cowles in the air flow from the scoops, and the batteries went where the fuel tanks should have gone. It was a very nice flier until one of the fire walls gave out, and his motor tilted up creating a terrible spin. He cut power, got it out of the spin, but when he tried to land, it had ejected a battery, the CG was way off, and it stalled.[&o]

The lesson here is to always check, and or reinforce the fire wall of any ARF that you build.

Best of Luck,
Darrell B.

codimasta

My Feedback: (89)

Since this was to be a conversion ....enclosed pictures of mounting the motors (2814/10)

Darrell B.

Nice standoffs! My friend mounted his batteries right behind the fire walls, and still had to add weight to the nose. Is there any way to place your batteries in the nose and then run wires out to the nacels, or would the wire runs be way to long?

Darrell B.

codimasta

My Feedback: (89)

I got the STAND-OFF's at LOWES..in the Hardware Drawer....I needed 1 3/4" from the firewall, so I got 1", 1/2", 1/4" Stand-off, put the together with 2 3/4" x 6/32 bolt.....then added a washer for prop clearance.

I plan to put the batteries in the fuselage, using 12 ga. wire, the voltage drop should be negligible, this will allow me to set the CG using the batteries. As per Castle Creations, recommendation I will have both packs in parallel...so that each controller will see the same voltage.

EFisch

My Feedback: (1)

I am interested in how you will be wiring the system. Do you just come off the batteries with a Y cable to the speed controls? I am starting my Transall tonight.

Carlos Murphy

My Feedback: (72)

codimasts,

I'm using Axi 2820/10 motors with 40 amp Jeti controllers in my OV-10 Bronco and Hobbico Twin Star with APC 10X7 E props.
I elected to use a Thunder Power Li-Po from my first volter which is a 3S3P 6000 mil 11.1 volt and is not enough to run two motors with decent performance without running too hot.
Max operating temp for this Li-Po is 135 degrees and it has been running between 140 and 155 degrees.
I spoke with L.A. Johnson at Hobby Lobby today and he recomened installing a "parallel module" part #FMAC03P (which I coundn't find on their site) which will allow me to retain the 3S3P 6000 and add a TP21003 to bring the power system up to the equivalent of a 3S4P battery or I could go with the extra expence in install a second 3S3P 6000 which would give me even more performance and great flight time but the plane would then be carring $440.00 worth of batteries, damn!
With the extra power I can increase prop size and performance at the same time.
As I recall the Twin Star weighs 6.5 pounds and the Bronco 6.9
The red battery wires from each controller are soldered together as are the black wires, a extension wire is then soldered to those connections and a deans connector (male) is then soldered to those two leads, plug the battery into that connector.

Carlos Murphy

My Feedback: (72)

codimasts,

I'm using Axi 2820/10 motors with 40 amp Jeti controllers in my OV-10 Bronco and Hobbico Twin Star with APC 10X7 E props.
I elected to use a Thunder Power Li-Po from my first volter which is a 3S3P 6000 mil 11.1 volt and is not enough to run two motors with decent performance without running too hot.
Max operating temp for this Li-Po is 135 degrees and it has been running between 140 and 155 degrees.
I spoke with L.A. Johnson at Hobby Lobby today and he recomened installing a "parallel module" part #FMAC03P (which I coundn't find on their site) which will allow me to retain the 3S3P 6000 and add a TP21003 to bring the power system up to the equivalent of a 3S4P battery or I could go with the extra expenceand install a second 3S3P 6000 which would give me even more performance and great flight time but the plane would then be carring $440.00 worth of batteries, damn!
With the extra power I can increase prop size and performance at the same time.
As I recall the Twin Star weighs 6.5 pounds and the Bronco 6.9
The red battery wires from each controller are soldered together as are the black wires, a extension wire is then soldered to those connections and a deans connector (male) is then soldered to those two leads, plug the battery into that connector.

Carlos Murphy

My Feedback: (72)

Sorry bout the double post, don't know what happened.

Van

I hope this is still being checked. I'm working on an E-conversion also. I have two AXI 2820-10s with CC-35 speed controls. I was planning on trying a single TP 3S3P. When I used this same system (except just one motor and servo) on my 40 size Rascal I was pulling ~28 amps WOT. Two motors should not exceed the 10C rating of a single 3S3P battery. I do have another if I need to put them in parallel though. I would be interested to know what kind of amps you were pulling from your set up when the battery was getting so hot.

Carlos Murphy

My Feedback: (72)

Van,
With 10X7 APC-E props 630 watts, 58 amps.
10X10 APC-E props 650 watts, 69 amps.
This is with the single 3S3P-6000 Li-Po.

EFisch

My Feedback: (1)

I just bench tested mine last night with 2 2820/10 running 2 kokam 2000 mah 15C batteries. With 11x7 eprops it was pulling 76 amps which exceeds the 3s2p configuration. I am planning on a 3s3p pack which will work fine. I may drop down to a 10x7 to lower the amps which looks like the 3s2p should work based on the above information, but I don't think the run times would be that great. Either way I will still use a 3s3p kokam 15c pack.

Van

Wow, that's really pushing it. I flew my 2820-10 on my 40 size Sig Rascal using a 10x5 APC prop, and a TP 3S3P (6000mah) with only 28 amp draw. I was planning the same prop setup on my Transall. My Rascal flew fine, not fast and not lots of vertical, but just fine. It weighed in at ~5.5 lbs. Since the Transall is ~7.5 lbs, I think it'll be great without overstressing the battery. All the gas guys seem to say that it flies great at half throttle with smaller gas engines.

I ordered a white/gray C160, but got a camo version instead. I didn't want the camo so decided to sand it down and redo it in the scheme I wanted. I've got one nacelle and the two servo hatches to sand still. Hopefully with start painting tomorrow. I can't wait to get this thing in the air.

EFisch

My Feedback: (1)

Van, Keep in mind that is for two motors running on a 3s3p pack that can handle 90 amps. So that is 38 amps at WOT static per motor and I don't plan on hovering the transall.

Van

Good point. My (6000mah) TP pack is in the 12C range. If I can keep the total draw to 60 amps or less then I'm certain the battery shouldn't have to struggle to hard. As with my other electric planes, I like my amp draw a little on the conservative side with the hope the electronics (especially the $$$ lipo batteries) last longer.

The stripping of my camo C160 is done. I've applied the first couple coats of white primer. Once it dries, I'll do another light wet sanding to smooth everything out then apply the final gloss white/gray coats. I can't wait to see this thing together.

codimasta

My Feedback: (89)

How are you going to cool the batteries ???? I am thinking on the lines of adding a airscoop in front of the front landing gear...any suggestions.

Larry
AMA 11269

Van

I wasn't planning anything special for cooling. I figured the nose wheel opening would be enough to get air in. The fuse is cavernous enough that excessive heat shouldn't build up to bad. With air coming in the nose well and able to exit from the main gear well I think it will allow sufficient flow. Any other ideas?

EFisch

My Feedback: (1)

How are you guys mounting your batteries in the fuselage? Are you epoxing or screwing in a tray?