faisal hamadah

from where i can buy Transall C-160 website
emial me plz [email protected]
thank

faisal hamadah

sory [email protected]
thank

Edd Spidell

Hi Al,

Thank you for the kind words. I am just in-between my classes right now. I will be testing some ultra-high brightness L.E.D.s for use with the C-160, later today. Got a pair of MGM-Compro ESC's (50amp - 24 cell) cheap ($140.00 for the pair), and will be testing them also. My gut feel is that they will not be as good as Castle/Jeti, but it is worth a shot. I have spent more on much less. Some early tests indicate that they hit a "power wall", around 500 watts input. Whatever voltage/current/prop loading that approaches 500 watt total input, the ESC shuts down - not like a Phoenix... I e-mailed the owner of MGM, in CZ, but he decided not to answer the question I poised, so the tests will go on. They do not look like a kilowatt device at this point. I probably will use Castle 60's in the C-160, based on the final outcome of testing. I will post the results.

Got my juniors in the lab - gotta go!

Regards,

Edd

algutkin

My Feedback: (1)

The STOL C160 is getting closer. The fuse is complete. I made a new battery tray, using a 3s4p 2000mah battery config., total 8,000mah at 11.1 volts. After installation of my new battery tray I realized that the fuse fiberglass is thin and flexes too much, therefor had to widen the attaching points for more support. Took off work early today to buy plywood, wood putty, etc. Darn, it took 2 hours just to think, cut out the winglets and start sanding the wing additons. The bad news, this baby is going to weigh more, how much more, I don't know yet.

Every time I look at my woodworking material, which is all over the place, I get crabby. I really hate this arts and crafts stuff, that's why I like ARF and that's why I am an accountant. I'm getting tired, did I already say that I hate wood working? I can't get the smell of epoxy, JB weld, sanding dust, and wood chips out of my nose. I am starting to think that this idea of a STOL C160 was stupid, I guess I had to do somthing. I crashed the first plane, bought a second to make myself feel better, and the darn plane just doesn't fly like it should to start with, it needs help. Tomorrow I am going to drive 573 miles round trip to our place in Arizona to do some maintenance. Saturday I'll start again with some fresh energy. I never quit, even when I know that I should.

I'm going to finish it this weekend, it will fly and it will fly good when it is finished. I just don't think it will be ready to fly this Sunday morning, craftsmanship just takes too long. Did I already say that I really hate woodworking? Sanding is most boring thing that person can do, outside of painting. Make a mistake with sanding and you have to get wood putty, then the wood putty has to dry, then the wood putty needs to be sanded. What a pain in the butt.

C160 fans, stay tuned. This baby is going to take off in 30 feet and land really short. However, it will never skid around turns like the Hobby Lobby Telemaster. Check out the video on the Hobby Lobby website.

Al

algutkin

My Feedback: (1)

STOL C160 TRANSALL. update.

It going to come down to the wire on Sunday. Ran into an unexpected engineering problem. When the flaps are down, it would look funny because the flaps cross the seam where the wing pieces are attached and the dehidral takes place. On a real airplane the flaps slide out and down. I don't want to spend the rest of my life making parts to emulate a real airplane, have to come up with some other alternative. I think I solved the problem, split flaps, however, with glue drying, wood putty drying, paint drying, and me getting dried up, I might just open a bottle of wine on Sunday and drink the whole thing before noon.

Stay tuned

Al

Van

This all sounds interesting Al. Be sure to post some pictures. I can't wait to hear how it works.

algutkin

My Feedback: (1)

Today is Sunday and my goal was to finish the STOL 160 today, I'm trying to work in the garage, painting and sanding etc., however, the wind is blowing 20 to 40 MPH outside and my wife does not want her Tbird convertible painted Camouflage brown. Van, you know what I am talking about, those Santa Ana Winds blowing off the desert. Anyway, I'm going to slow down today, the paint fumes are getting to me so, who needs wine to relax and feel dizzy? It looks like the project will not be finished today. Almost, but not there yet.

stay tuned, more to come.

All

Van

Take your time Al. Rember, the faster you go the behinder you get.

I know about the winds. It's been blowing here since Friday. Early this AM it seemed calm so I had hoped to get in some sort of flying. Nope, the winds quickly picked up again. Oh well, there's always next weekend. This does give me a chance to work on planes though, or at least clean out the hobby room so I can think about putting a plane on the board.

algutkin

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Van, aren't you supposed to be working on your new Transall C160? I don't want to be a nag or anything, but, if somone doesn't come up with some kind of flying machine soon, this thread will die of boredom.

I couldn't resist the Hobby Lobby video, and ordered a Telemaster. I have fast planes, but, I really like to go slow, the complete opposite of 3D. I don't know about you, but, my neck starts to hurt when I watch 3D. As far as flying is concerned, I crash flying straight and level, why push it with 3D.

I did something stupid with the wood for the flaps and ailerons, I first thought plywood, but then I remember something about flutter, so I used balsa. I didn't seal the balsa first, stupid me. This stuff is sucking up the spray can paint, 5 coats and still not smooth. At this point, one more heavy coat and it's good to go, no matter what. Remember I said the things I hate most with this hobby are sanding and painting. Diddo that.

Time to do some more work, stay tuned.

Al

Edd Spidell

Hi Gang,

Finished the tests on what I intended to use in the Transall for ESC's; you get what you pay for...back to Castle Phoenix (as usual). The TMM 5024-3s Profi controllers go into overload mode at or around 400 watts. I tried 3S2P at 40amps, works, but not at 44amps. Then tried 6S2P at 20 amps, but not at 22amps. These are power limited, so they would work with 2S2P at 50amps, or 8S2P at 16 amps. Northeast Sailplane sold a bunch of them cheap - fine if you understand the limitations.

I finished the motor mounting (Himax HB3630-1500kv) and mated them to the Phoenix 60's. I used the finned clamshell 600 mounts from Maxx RC Products to help get rid of the waste heat. With that setup turning Graupner 2 blade 9x6's, it was pulling 54 amps (per motor) off the Kokam 3200 in 3S2P config. I am happy with that, but I still want to play with the 3 blade props. The Graupner beat anyone else's hand's down.

Just when I thought I didn't need another plane, yup, I did it again. I picked up a OV-10b from Hobby Hangar (www.hobbyhangar.com), for $219.99 with shipping. It weighs in between 5.5 and 6.5 pounds with glow motors. I spoke with the owner, Bill, and he just finished one with outrunners a few weeks ago. He said it flies great (don't they all...), so I figured another warbird would be fun. And it is an ARF!

No flying for a while up here in the woods of Rhode Island - got 3 inches of snow on the ground, with another 4-6 coming overnight.
Finger-frozen flying is really, really not fun.

So build we must - the C-160, the F-16 Kyosho Glow/Electric conversion, and now the OV-10b on it's way.

Best regards,

Edd

Van

Wow Edd, 54 amps per motor. With my 3S3P battery, and AXI 2820-10s turning 10x5 APC props I was pulling ~that many amps total. Your ESC tests do confirm I'm happy with my CC speed controllers. Sorry to hear about the cold...brrrrr....you can keep all that stuff to yourself. I guess I shouldn't complain about our highs in the 50s in Vegas...'course those 110+ degree summer days do suck.

Al, yep, I should be working on the C-160, but aren't right now. I need to strip off the covering so I can redo it in the color scheme I want. I also need to paint the lower half of the fuse...but with our cold temps here (he-he) I haven't braved going outside to do the painting. I will work on it though...maybe even soon hopefully.

Edd Spidell

Hi Van,

Yes, it is snowing right now....yuck. We go through well over 100 degree changes in temperature here. It was over 100*F for about 8 days, and we will see -15 to -22*F this winter again. Very tough on fiberglass fuses! The foamies are the only thing that can take it. I had a Rascal 40 come apart in the air last winter - the glue joints broke when the balsa dried out in the cold dry air. The ice fishermen on my lake got a good laugh though.

Yes, the current is high because the props are really humming, as on my Hobbico Twin Star. I tach'd them at 13.4K Rpm, but I am not as comfortable with those numbers as I am from the AstroFlight and Medusa power meters, taking the electrical measurements. I need to get a really good tachometer, or take the time to build one.

Anymore work on a cargo door? I will attacked that next, Al has educated us all on the "flaps or not to flap" situation. Kind of like the choice between a root canal or a colon exam. Sorry Al, !

Keep them humming!

Regards,

Edd

algutkin

My Feedback: (1)

Edd:

Never mind the tach meter, I see different ways to measure the right combination, amps plus torque. What you need to build is a stationery torque meter.

The base of the meter setup has to be too heavy to be pulled by the torque of the aircraft being measured.
1. Design and build the base.
2. A weighing scale (something like a fish scale) is attached between the base and the main wings of the aircraft.
3. Hook up the amp meter.
4. Run the plane at WOT, measure the torque on the scale, read the amps.
5. Change props and do it again.
6. The object is to develop the most torque with the least amps, or use the amp draw as a fixed number and change props to develop the most torque at that fixed amp reading. RPM will have nothing to do with the calculations.

OK, the JB weld is probably dry now, time to install the flaps...

I remember the snow, I'm from Connecticut...I still have bad dreams about ice, snow, falling down, freezing fingers, slow drivers, even slower snow plows, crabby people etc. It's a hard life where it's cold. The best part of the snow was adult sled riding, you always could drink brandy at the bottom of the hill. I miss the brandy.

Al

algutkin

My Feedback: (1)

The project has taken a turn for the better.

The flaps are on and look right. Not only do they look right, but, they operate just like the big boys. The wing is so much bigger now and is in proportion. Wait till you see the how the flaps are attached, they look real. All that's left is to install the aileron hinges, run the servo wires. Don't forget, there are two extra servos in each wing. That design was a problem in itself, there is no real support built into the wing for two more servos.

Stay tuned, taking a client to lunch today, yes there is wine and food involved. Hope to recover by late today and finish the wing project.

Al

Edd Spidell

Al,


Good to hear that there is hope for the flaps, nice work from what you have reported. Looking forward to some photos. I bought a digital fishing scale today in response to your comments, and will build some sort of test fixture. I would like to use a load cell, similar to what is in the unit now to make something to interface into a computer. Excel sheets are produced by the Medusa unit, so it would be easy to merge the data. A good project for one of my seniors.

B.T.W. - Adult sledding is now done with SUV's...

Regards,

Edd

algutkin

My Feedback: (1)

Edd:

It's a good project for science or geometry, maybe even mechanical engineering class. If you design and build the test fixture, you will have designed and built the first device of that nature for RC anything. Just think of the possibilites. Big bucks....Have to sell it quick before it gets knocked off by some......foreign manufacturer.

Stay warm

Al

algutkin

My Feedback: (1)

There are so many things to think about when attempting to modify a ARF project. I mounted the servos, attached the flaps and ailerons, everything looks good. However, there always seems to be another engineering problem with every move. This time, it's how to get the flaps on each side to move together, the servos are reversed. Had I thought about this in advance I could have mounted the flap servos the same and used a Y harness. 3 hours wasted unsoldering my hand made Y harness, and researching ways to re-wire the actual servo. To test out the servi rewire method I had to ruin a perfectly good spare servo, only to discover that circuit boards cannot be easily rewired.

OK, having failed at that project, I had to re-solder seperate J connectors on each servo wire and use channels six and seven on the receiver, then, redirect both channels to the three position switch previously used for duel rates. Just when I finished this and was reading the Futaba manual to find out how to operate the flaps in three positions my wife reminded me that I was going to be late for work and that my assistant would yell at me.

I hate when work gets in the way of hobbies! More delays....Never again will I do this. I could have built a full size kit plane in the time it's taking me to doodle with this project. I have read about guys spending 2500 hours and 5 years building a model...NUTS.

More to come after work today. Stay tuned for more laughs.

Al G.

algutkin

My Feedback: (1)

STOL

It's finished, except for some paint touch up and the stick on graphics. I'm swomewhat color blind and used a dark brown to paint the flaps and ailerons, that's why I hesitated with posting pictures. I don't like the color mix with the rest of the plane. Everything is operational, got the three position switch to work, trying for 15 degrees, 30 degrees and full flaps at 45 degrees, however, the factory way of istalling the linkages is too sloppy, you know, where you bend the rod and push it throught he servo arm and use that plastic keeper. I will install ball links instead. The end result was to add approx. 3 inches to the full width of the flying part of the main wing, fuse out to the tip. That measurement includes the flaps and ailerons.

Pictures approx. 6PM Pacific Time. Stay tuned

Al G.

algutkin

My Feedback: (1)

First pictures are the underside of wing. Pictures of the complete plane in a few minutes when the paint dries.
See if you can tell where the wing was made wider. Final paint was selected today, thanks to my assistant Sue for helping me with colors at Home Depot.

Al

algutkin

My Feedback: (1)

Weight with batteries, no props, 7 pounds 8 oz unbalanced. The first C160 weighed the same balanced, however, I had quite a bit of weights mid way to the tail in order to balance. This plane has not been balanced yet, however it will probably come out to be over 8 lbs. I added an extra battery forward of the planned CG, which will require more weights aft of the CG to balance. Notice the mini winglets. Next, will come the flight test. If I have time before Sunday, I will add the stall fences on top of the main wing. I hope every crew member has flight insurance, this may be scary. Next project, the Telemaster with a mini DV video camera.

OH, just in case I didn't mention, I hate woodworking and painting. Arts and Crafts is for little kids. I haven't been able to get the smell of wood chips, glue, and paint out of my nose since this project started. Thank goodness it finally is over....or, is it?

Your turn now..

Al

Edd Spidell

Al,

The C-160 looks very impressive! I bet that you will find quite a difference in the landing performance. It looks like a winner with the winglets added.

Best wishes for stable flight and smooth landings on this maiden.

Edd

Van

Al, that looks great. I take it the flaps/ailerons are just flat balsa. It actually looks like it flairs in very well. I can't wait to hear about flight reports.

algutkin

My Feedback: (1)

Van and Edd.

Thanks for the good words...Edd, can you have the torque testing device ready yesterday?

Yes, the wood is just flat balsa, I was really worried about the strength of 1/4 inch balsa without covering. I was going to use plywood, but nixed that idea, too tough to work with. Ends up that all the painting without sealant helped to stiffen up the balsa. The fake flap mechanism pieces under the flaps is balsa hardened with CR. The hardened balsa adds quite a bit of reinforcement to the flap blade itself. The hinges are actually inside those pieces and are the round plastic pivot point hinges. You probably notices that on a real aircraft those devices slide back and down with the flaps.

Right now I am removing the existing rods from the servos to the flaps and making up rods with ball joints. The existing setup just allowed to much slop in the flaps. I was afraid that in flight the flaps may not retract evenly which would add differential aileron effect and cause another early termination to a perfectly good flight. The plane could not survive an aileron roll into the ground. Just think how ugly it would be, one flap up the other down. Gee, that could be considered an un-recoverable 3D maneuver.

Take care

Al G

algutkin

My Feedback: (1)

The flight test is cancelled this Sunday, the craft flunked the amp/duration test. Both the 40 amp controllers shut down and got hot when 60% to 100% throttle was used for the first 2.5 minutes. These results were quite different than the previous bench tests, when they didn't even get hot. I have to recharge the batts and try a few more times while I diagnose this problem. I can't read the amps when the wing is on, so, I'll have to rig up something. In any case time is running out to get packed for a test flight tomorrow, and a Saturday evening Christmas party tonight is also threatening me with a wine induced head ache.

The finished craft balanced perfectly without the additon of more weight. However, after modifications, and the addition of one more 2000mah 3S pack, the craft weighed in at 8 lbs., 14 oz., almost 9 lbs. Pretty heavy, huh? Perhaps too heavy for the existing motors at the present voltage.

Oh yes, before I forget, I bought a 50 lb digital fish scale at the sporting goods store, Turners, for 39.95 and rigged up a testing device for propellers. The 10.5 two blade came out the best. The reading was a quick burst of 7.1 lbs and a constant at 6.3. The best any three blade could do, was 5.4lbs. The 15lb scale would have done fine, but it was the same price as the 50 and was also the same size.

Keep tuned for updates

Al G.

Edd Spidell

Hi Al,

The first version of the thrust stand was completed before we shutdown the school due to the blizzard-like conditions. I got over a foot of snow at my home. Anyway some photos of the first tests in a tank for the underwater robots. The only mods for the airplane props will be a shield on the sides and front - protecting myself and students from "flyers"...

I will be doing some tests next week on the Kontroniks Fun 600-17 and Himax HB3630-1500 motors, for use with the C-160 and the OV-10b, and will post the results. I will test with a variety of props, but I know that static thrust is only a small part of the story. The planes need more than "stump pulling" ability. Maybe a small wind tunnel is next!!!!

Still shoveling,


Edd