Greg Covey

The new [link=http://www.thewingsmaker.com/airplane_details.php?code=GA018]Ultimate 40[/link] from [link=http://thewingsmaker.com/index.php]The Wings Maker[/link] is now available on-line. It is made from top quality balsa and plywood construction and comes with all hardware and accessories. The built-up upper and lower one-piece wings comes with premium hand iron-on covering film in an exciting new color scheme!

I'll be converting this .40-size model to clean and quiet electric power for my review.

Specifications:[ul][*] Wing Span : 42 in / 1060 mm[*] Wing Area : 578 sq in / 37.3 sq dm[*] Flying Weight : 4.5 lbs / 2050 g[*] Fuselage Length : 39.5 in / 1000 mm[*] Engine Required : 2-stroke 0.40 - 0.46 or 4-stroke 0.52 - 0.56[*] Radio Required : 4-channel radio w/ 3 standard servos and 1 mini servo
[/ul]
Key Features:[ul][*] Top quality balsa and plywood construction[*] Light weight but strong for aerobatics maneuvers[*] Painted fiberglass cowling and wheel pants[*] Built-up one-piece wings with symmetrical airfoil[*] All necessary hardware included
[/ul]

Greg Covey

The Ultimate 40 ARF comes very well protected in its box and every part is sealed in plastic. The plane is beautifully covered and detailed. The kit includes built-up upper and lower one-piece wings and an incidence guide set for checking the alignment between the two wings.

The fiberglass cowl is painted and comes with a plastic guide for cutting sections away when a glow engine is used. The wheels, fiberglass pants, spinner, and fuel tank are also included. The opaque canopy eliminates the need for a pilot.

An 13-page manual with detailed drawings and a decal sheet are also included. The manual reveals detailed linkage assembly and instructions to properly set incidences. It clearly states the proper throws and CG settings.

After opening the large bag of parts, it was nice to see the smaller bags with numbers on them that matched the instruction steps in the manual. This makes it easy to find the right set of parts for each step and is a nice feature from The Wings Maker!

jumper666

subscribing

Greg Covey

A closer look at the fuselage revealed the solid but light construction techniques. A hardwood slat keeps the vertical stabilizer channel safe from breakage during shipment. Blue dots mark where the covering should be cut for the horizontal stabilizer.

The firewall has pre-mounted T-nuts for the supplied glow engine mount. T-nuts are also pre-installed for the gear mains and securing lower wing.

Terry Glenn

Greg:
Where abouts are you located in Rochester. Where do you fly.
I am just starting out, and live in Auburn.
Thanks
Terry

Greg Covey

Hi Terry,

If you look on my R/C [link=http://www.gregcovey.com/r_c_clubs.htm]Clubs[/link] page, you'll see the local clubs in Rochester. We follow the schedule in the RC Gypsies link but you can find maps in the other links to all the main flying fields.

Maybe we'll see you this summer!

Greg Covey

The assembly starts with the lower wing. The ailerons were attached with Zap thin CA on the hinges and a small amount of 5-minute epoxy where the control arm inserts into the aileron. The thin CA soaks into the fiber hinges and then into the balsa slots for added strength so remember not to use any CA kicker accelerator on this step.

I used a Hobbico [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPB33&P=7]CS-35 Mini BB Servo[/link] for the aileron control. This high power (54 oz-in) mini servo weighs only an ounce and will easily move all four ailerons on the Ultimate. All the linkage was supplied including the keepers.

The upper wing ailerons were then CA'ed in place. Both wings already come with the strut cabanes glued in place.

Greg Covey

The horizontal stabilizer is glued in place first, followed by the vertical stabilizer. The fins already have the covering removed so they can be glued with either thin CA, epoxy, or white glue.

The elevator halves and rudder are attached by the hinge material, via the pre-made slots, and then secured in place with thin CA. I had no alignment issues and the pieces all fit well.

Greg Covey

The power system components for my Ultimate will consist of an [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPPX8&P=7]AXI 4120/14[/link] outrunner motor, a 60-amp ESC like the E-flite [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLA1060]EFLA1060[/link] Pro Brushless ESC or FlightTech [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVBY0&P=7]60A[/link] ESC, a new FlightPower [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWUD2&P=7]EON28[/link] 6s 3350mAh LiPo pack, and APC 11x7 e-prop.

The Ultimate 40 target weight is 90oz (5.6lbs) including the 18oz Lithium pack. The static current should be around 53amps for a power level of around 1100 watts using an APC 11x7 e-prop. The target power to weight ratio will be about 1100w/5.5lbs = 200w/lb. This will really make the Ultimate 40 perform well without stressing the components. The EON28 3350mAh pack can deliver up to 94 amps continuous and we should only be drawing in the mid-50s.

For a preview of how this power system will perform in The Wings Maker Ultimate 40, see my original [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=735]Ultimate 40S Review[/link] from July 2006 for World Models.

jumper666

Looking interesting. If I were to build this acft, I would prefer not having to buy new 6S's. Might I use 2(3S 2500mAh) or 2(3S 3300mAh) or 2(3S 3700mAh) in series to end up with adequate flight times? The heaviest of these pairs would be 22oz and would be at least 20c.

Greg Covey

I wouldn't recommend using the 2500mAh packs but the 3300mAh or 3700mAh packs in series should work fine.

The advantage of using a single 6s pack allows you to recharge it in the plane without needing more than a single MPI arming switch to disconnect the battery from the ESC. This will be demonstrated later in my review using a safe balancing charger like the FMA Cellpro 10S.

When using two packs in series, you must either charge only one pack at a time or break the series link between the packs in order to charge them at the same time using two chargers. If you don't do this, then a ground loop will exist and damage one or both chargers. In essence, you need to use two of the MPI arming switches or have some access hatch to disconnect the Dean's Ultra connectors; one from the ESC and one from the other pack in series

On smaller scale planes like this Ultimate 40, it is often difficult to remove the lower wing to recharge during flights. I have found it much easier to assemble the plane once for the weekend and recharge the battery inside the plane.

jumper666

Thanks for the information. I will be looking forward to future installments. Access to the battery will be pivotal to my decision to build or not.

Greg Covey

To mount the electric motor, the stock metric T-nuts were first removed and then #8-32 T-nuts installed into the new positions marked from the AXI radial mount. I used 1" (HLH8855), 1/2" (HLH8854), 1/4" (HLH8853) spacers, and 3" (HLH8875) #3-32 screws from [link=http://www.hobby-lobby.com/brushless-motors.htm#filterValuesRequest,filter_id_88=87|88]Hobby Lobby[/link]. Note that two 1" spacers would likely work here as well but I prefer to have the cowl in tight against the fuselage.

The APC 11x7 e-prop was mounted with the supplied spinner. All hardware was included for the cowl and spinner.

Greg Covey

My Ultimate 40 will be easy to arm using the MPI [link=http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-21.html]6970[/link] High Current Arming Switch. I am also adding an anti-spark feature to keep the arming pin from getting pitted. Any electric power system using a 6s LiPo voltage or higher creates a sizable spark when connecting the battery to the ESC. This can be eliminated by first connecting a 100ohm resistor across the line to charge the ESC capacitors and then connect the battery via an arming switch or direct Dean's Ultra plug.

Since my E-flite ESC came with an On/Off switch, I decided to use it for the anti-spark switch instead. It is not a fail-safe On/Off design for the ESC so it poses a weak link that could turn off the radio system in flight if the switch ever went bad. By removing the switch and soldering the On/Off wires together on the ESC, it will always remain on as long as power is applied.

The ESC was mounted to the bottom of the fuselage through a slot I created with a Dremel tool. It is held in place with servo tape on the top side and a wedge of balsa CA'ed inside the fuselage to keep it from moving. I will be creating an opening in the cowl for air to pass by the ESC as it exits. In this manner, air flow from the front of the cowl will cool both the motor and ESC. Additional holes into the fuselage will help cool the battery where an air exit will be made in the bottom tail.

To arm the system, simply turn ON the switch and then plug in the arming pin...spark free!

Greg Covey

The tailwheel assembly was complete and easy to install. I drilled 2mm holes for the screws and rudder hole. The holes were coated with some thin CA before installing the assembly and I used Pacer Z-42 thread locker on the set screws before tightening them. Remember to slide the one wheel collar against the plastic base before tightening it so that it helps absorb shock on landings.

Greg Covey

The elevator control rods are combined together using the supplied joiner. Each end is bent at a right angle to keep it from slipping out under force. I used Pacer Z-42 thread locker on the three nuts before tightening them in place.

The elevator and rudder control horns were mounted into the pre-drilled holes of the control surfaces. All the hardware was supplied and the pre-mounted tubing ends even had the fuselage covering sliced at the opening so the control rods could slide through. This provided a very clean look. However, I needed to open the holes in the control horns for the clevises using a 5/64" bit. All three clevises were installed into the second hole from the outside or second farthest from the control surface.

Greg Covey

The other ends of the elevator and rudder control rods attach to standard size digital servos. The supplied keepers create a simple yet secure connection to the servo arm. The unused position was for the glow engine throttle servo.

A hardwood platform was then glued in place with epoxy. It was supported on the bottom by short blocks glued to the fuselage top. I then covered the platform with a Velcro strip which was securely CA'ed in place. My 6-cell EON28 3350mAh pack fit perfectly as it was supported on all sides. A small piece of flooring foam will be wedged in between the LiPo pack and the hardwood slat I used to reinforce the former.

Greg Covey

The gear mains assembly started by mounting the wheels and pants. I needed to sand the one side of the wheel hub about a 1/4" down with my Dremel tool for a perfect fit inside the pant. All the hardware is supplied and fit well but the pants to not have pre-drilled holes so you need to align them yourself.

The mains screwed into pre-mounted T-nuts in the fuselage. I use Pacer Z-24 thread locker on the grub screw collars and the three screws holding the mains to the fuselage. My Ultimate 40 could finally stand on its own wheels.

Greg Covey

The canopy comes with pre-drilled holes and a roll of double-sided tape for east installation. The rubber eyelets keep the canopy plastic from cracking and the double-sided tape provides a good seal to prevent wind from entering along the front and sides.

The lower wing aligned itself with the pre-installed wooden dowel on the leading edge and the pre-drilled hole in the hardwood plate on the trailing edge. The seam was perfect and the wing was held securely in place with a single M4x25 screw into a pre-installed T-nut in the fuselage.

Note that an air exit opening was cut into the cowl bottom with my Dremel tool.

Greg Covey

Traditionally, one of the more difficult aspects of assembling (or building) a muscle bipe like an Ultimate was to install the wings and align them properly. The Wings Maker Ultimate 40 eliminates most of this work by using labeled cabanes and wing incidence templates.

After first installing the center cabanes, using the labeled numbers and arrows for proper position, the top wing is held perfectly in place using the wing incidence templates. Not only are the top cabanes and wing incidence templates marked with arrows, so is the white center cabanes. If you hold them up to light, you can see the arrow construction in the wood marking the correct side to point up. These clever assembly techniques, combined with all the included hardware, make mounting the wings and cabanes a snap!

The final step of assembly was to install the linkages for the upper ailerons. All the supplied hardware and pin holes in the ailerons made this step much easier.

Greg Covey

My Ultimate 40 was RTF at 90oz (5.6lbs) including the 18oz Lithium pack. I measured 60amps static current (or 1300 watts) with my AXI 4120/14 using an APC 11x7 e-prop. My 6-cell FlightPower EON28 3350mAh 28C pack can deliver 94amps continuous so it will not be getting stressed. My power to weight ratio was 1300w/5.5lbs = 232w/lb.

The Ultimate 40 flew very well and the AXI 4120 provided enough power to knife edge at half-throttle. Full throttle was rarely used. We flew several flights with mixed aerobatics for around 7 minutes each. The only issue we had was with my old FMA digital servos lagging behind the pilot elevator control. Iwill replace them with new JR DS-821 digital servos.

We saw no bad tendencies in flight and landings were relatively easy. The video of the Ultimate is with 10-15mph winds. We had plenty of power and the wind didn't really affect the flight. The combination smaller prop on a 6s Lithium pack really makes the Ultimate 40 nice and fast. As you can see in the video, my Ultimate 40 tore up the sky!

The Ultimate design is known as a "Muscle Bipe" because of its extreme aerobatic capability. They fly fast and land hot. The smaller span models under a 40" wingspan are the most difficult to handle usually due to high wingloading. In recent years, lighter construction techniques have allowed the 40" span bipes to become less of a handful to fly and land. The Wings Maker Ultimate 40 design is in this new category.

Only intermediate flying skills are needed to handle this bipe as it is designed to fly very well and land slower with some low power required until touchdown. The key to a good flying aerobatic bipe is to have proper incidences and sufficient power. The Wings Maker light ARF design and incidence guides make the task a whole lot easier.

Although a .40-size glow engine will provide sufficient power, a .50-size engine makes the Ultimate 40S very spirited! For a glow-to-electric conversion, having around 200 watts per pound provides great performance that is both clean and quiet. A motor in the 1000+ watt power class is recommended.

[link=http://www.gregcovey.com/reviews/Ultimate40.wmv]The Wings Maker Ultimate 40 Test Flight Video[/link] (28meg)

Greg Covey

Here are some photos of the finished Ultimate 40.