overkill-RCU

My Feedback: (21)

Hello,

I have a Super Tartan Twin 77 that I am trying to get running. Before you start, yes, I have read EVERY post on the net that I could find on Tartan Twins. The twin I have has been sit in a file cabinet drawer for about 12 years. It is practically brand new. That is with the exception that the DELL'ORTO carb on it is junk. The metering diaphgram is no good. I have been to every small engine shop in the area and no one can find any matching gaskets. I have put an walbro HDA-48 off of a G-62 on it and can get it to run. The problem is, I have no top end on it. I go full throttle and it bogs out and dies. I have tried every imaginable setting on the needles as well. I also have the teflon gaskets in the carb since I am running on GLOW fuel. The engine sounds GREAT at mid range and has a great idle, just no top end.

I know these engines were popular 20 years ago but I would really love to get this twin up and going. So, here is my questions for any of you that are familiar with them: What carb (Walbro)would be an exact change out for the dellorto carb on it and where would be a good needle setting on the "new" carb to start at.

The HDA-48, according to walbro's site, is in the range of the cc's of this engine. Just cant get it to work correctly.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Russ

Taurus Flyer

Russ.

A simple question, I do not know your twin. also not the Walbro type but.
Does the twin has enough crankcase volume displacement for the pump of the Walbro?
If it is a flat twin with one crankpin on the crankshaft, there probably is no displacement at all.

Cees

overkill-RCU

My Feedback: (21)

Cees,

The engine is actually a "Boxer" engine. Both cylinders firing at the same time. Through a lot of research I have found that there is a walbro carb that people have put on their engine to replace the Dell'orto engine, I just cant find what carb that is for my glow setup.

Also, if anyone knows someone or a company out there to have it "checked out / fixed", that would be great! All of the names I have run across are out of the Tartan Twin business....ie.., Cline and Associates.

Thanks again!

Campgems

what fuel are you running? Those engines were needle bearing and the recommended fuel was Methanol and oil, at something line 35-1. Most glow fuels will have to much oil. Now, if you are running an ignition version, this doesn't apply, other than the low oil content. I"m not sure if it is a single or dual throw crank. Mine is on a top shelf with lots of boxed in front of it. The parts drawing in the manual was very good if I remember correctly and should answer this question My guess is that the crank pressure isn't and issue as the engine came with a carb similar to a Walbro

Edit added

THe eninge is a boxer type. There is a reed valve under the carb as thecarb directly feeds the crank case.

From thelimited manual

Fuel mix is 92% methyl alcohol to 8% castor It also states you can add 3% amyl acetateto prevent forming deposits

The fuel lines must be a minimum of 4mm ID

INital carb settings are 1. Idle screw out 1 & 1/2 turns, 2. Main fuel screw1/2 turn Get it to idle and run mid range then open the high spee one more turn and then adjst for max RPM

My documentaion isn't in very good condition, but I'll make a copy and send it to you if you like.

Don

overkill-RCU

My Feedback: (21)

Don,

Thanks for the great info. I would love to have a copy of the documentation you have, just to have it if nothing else.

Thanks again.

Russ

Campgems

Scanner gives me grief agian.When it works, it is great, but I end up installing, deleating and re-installing ita couple times for each use. Been going on for about five years now. Three warranty "repairs" and same old same O


The scans look about the same as the orginal, which is not all that good. I think you can still get some useful info from them though.

Don

Zpat

My Feedback: (2)

Although there was no mention of exhaust, the Tartan Twin I ran would run the best on the stock exhaust, no nitro, and I believe I ran O.S. F plugs.

Good Luck!

mighty9

My Feedback: (10)

Also if the walbro is a gas carb the metering passages may be to small to provide enough fuel to run the high end..Gasoline requires about half as much fuel as alcohol..The walbro carb flows enough air but wont meter enough fuel to run on alcohol .

overkill-RCU

My Feedback: (21)

Well good news. After a crap load of looking I finally found some contact info on dell'orto.
They are out of the UK an have a website. After some email traffic back and forth I have found that they have a rebuild kit for the carb. Bad part is, it cost more to ship than the kit cost, but atleast I found it! More to come after I get the kit in.

Thanks for all of the help!

Now if I can find the reed valve for the motor.

Russell

mighty9

My Feedback: (10)

whats wrong with the reed valve? they are easily made

Campgems

Which of the exhaust? Mine came with both a canister and pipe type

Don

overkill-RCU

My Feedback: (21)

My engine came with straight pipe exhaust.

The reed valve that I in it presently is made of what looks like fiberglass and it is extremely hard and doesn't appear to be moving as it should when the vacuum pulls it up. I will get the carb rebuilt first and see how it goes. I have read that there was a "v" shaped reed for better performance and I would like to find that one of course.

Kimhoff

My Feedback: (22)

The factory Walbrofor the Tartan Glow is a WT158.

Campgems

Is this for the Glow or Gas version?

Don

Zpat

My Feedback: (2)

This is the only configuration I could use on this engine for it to run well.

Campgems

Do you run it wthi the carb on top as in the photo?

Don

Zpat

My Feedback: (2)

I ran it just as it is shown in the picture.
Turn the engine over and the top becomes the bottom.
I ran it with the carb and exhaust on the bottom.

Campgems

Thanks. I've got to dust off that ole engine and see what it will do. Iwas wondering there was a problem using the carb in an updraft position. Iguess not by your reply. Thanks again.

Don

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Tartan Engines are High Compression Engines for sure, do not burn more than 3% Nitro in the Tartans,, 10% oil (straight Castor is OK)

so one Key in your story is that "the Engine runs fine but will not Rev-Up, I have seen this same thing with 3 or 4 big Super Tigers that were started on 15%, once the Nitro is lowered they run fine,,

as for that Walbro, try opening the Needles, but change the Fuel first,
the Reeds on my Twin are Aluminum Reeds, you can do the Mod and put DL50 Reeds on it their just better,, and Bissen make Mufflers for it

what Prop,, prop it for a Peak RPM around 8000,

Jim

http://www.bissonmufflers.com/en/muf...mageField.y=10

overkill-RCU

My Feedback: (21)

I'm still waiting on the carb kit to show up from Delloroto in the UK! Maybe next week..... I found methanol readily available at a local race shop for $4.00 a gallon and picked up some straight castor oil from walmart this week. I'm going to mix it up per the instructions for the engine and run that.

Thanks for the tip Jim on the fuel. I was running 15% Nitro. I did try some 5% and it ran somewhat better but I will give the methanol a whirl once I get the carb rebuilt. The metering diaphragm was shot in it. As for the prop, I believe it is a 20 x 10. I will tach it (once I get it running...) and shoot for 8000 peak rpm's.

I'll also check out the DL 50 Reeds as well. The straight pipes I have on it do sound pretty mean when it is running, but now after seeing the Bisson mufflers, I think I'll have to get a set (there again, once I get it running (if)).

Thanks to everyone for the great info on this old beast! I really hope its worth the trouble.........and soon!

Russell

Here is a picture of what I am waiting to put it (back) on. It's an old Pilot Diablo kit ( I think).

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Russell

A)
do NOT use the Wall-Mart Castor unless it IS made for 2-Stroke Engines !!! because if it's made for Human-consumption it will Gum-Up your Engine !!

buy it made for the Hobby from a Hobby Shop,, Klotz, Byrons and others make it,
also, Byrons and Klotz both make it in a Mix of Castor and Synthetic, but brake it in on straight Castor first because the Synthetic will prolong the Brake-in,,
(see Klotz in the link)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...+oil&search=Go

Klotz,,
http://www.klotzlube.com/

B)
you can buy the DL Reed Assembly from Tower Hobby for $15 (see link),, geeshhh, that is $4 less than they charged me in early summer,,
you will have to make an Aluminum Plate to mount the Reed Assembly to the Engine,,

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYNE0&P=7

C)
as for the Delloroto Carb, I never used one, but they say they Leak badly,,

as for the Walbro I called Walbro once and was told Walbro's (s) should work with Methanol (and Nitro) as long as the Needles are opened enough (as I will find-out next spring)..

Jim

Kimhoff

My Feedback: (22)

The cylinders can be turned as long as the pistons are also turned. This way you can run the carb on top with the exhaust pointing down or vise versa.

You can get KLOTZ Benol at any motorcycle shop.

Jim,

Can you provide more details and some pictures of the DL reed attached to the Tartan. Does this improve the performance and run ability of the engine?

Broken Wings

My Feedback: (20)

I remember the first time I ever saw a Super Tartan Twin 77 engine. It was on an Airtrax or something to that effect....The model looked like a large modern day stick. I thought it was the coolest thing because it had a pull starter on it. They always looked like they were very well made engines.

Campgems

I always wondered wht the purpose of the rear shaft was.

Don

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Kimhoff,, I didn't copy the photo of the one I saw for sale on RCU, and I have not done the conversion yet,,
I did PM the owner of the one I saw for sale and he said the Engine started better and ran smoother with the conversion , but he did not have any RPM numbers for me

Jim