earlwb

Nicely done. Excellent work. I don't think I could have done one nearly as nice as you did it.
I still need to make one for a Webra 50 Heli engine I have that I want to test run first, before putting it in a Heli.
Thanks for the pics.

tiffitech

Hi Earl,
the "needle" arrived today here at the other end of the world.. I think I'll check it this weekend.

Special thanks to you!

Holm

BELLE FLYER

I am new to this site and I noticed that you talked about an MDS 40 engine. I took off the backing plate and I broke one of the mounting screw ears while prying the cover off. My question is now that MDS engine parts are hard to get do you know how I can get a new backing plate? Please advise if you can. Thanks

earlwb

Well MDS brand engines are not being made anymore. But at the time they were in production there were some parts available. So there might be a backplate out there someplace. MDS parts pop up from time to time on Ebay. The other thing is if the ear for the screw hole didn't break off too much, you can use a washer with the screw to help lock it down better. Maybe a little gasket sealant in the corner too. You can make a new gasket easily enough using a new X-acto knife blade and some card stock (the paper 3x5 cards for example). Another route is to find a junk MDS engine to scavenge parts off of.

NoOneFlysAtMyClub

My Feedback: (32)

mds-engines.ru

earlwb

I sort of wonder if they are really in business or not there inRussia. No one has been importing batches of the MDS engines to sell here so far.
So I don't know.
But it was interesting to peruse their website though.

unattainium

This has been an interesting thread and inspired me to get out my MDS .46 from the early 1990s. I have not run it since 1994 because the carb was so bad and it was put out of sight in the "one day" projects shelf. The engine broke in well and ran well but had no speed control stability and was a demon for sudden cutouts. I am now motivated to crank up my mini lathe and make new parts for the carb and see if I can tame the beast by replacing or reworking the defective Russian parts.

While I am at it making a new much lighter and better conceived muffler would be a good idea.

earlwb

I am hopeful you will be able to fix your problems. Glad to help.

Oh yeah I was reading in another thread where TRascal in RCG stated this too:
So this is something to keep in mind too. The spotting drill bit has a different angled tip on it than a regular twist drill bit.

Paulino01

Hi to all,
this is the engine that i talk, who can tell me something about it, it starts and runs, but when i take the energy for the glow he stops, the screwthat is with the blue arrow is there for something, but i´m not sure about it.
Best regards to all,
Paulino

earlwb

My first thought is that the glow plug may be going bad. I would try a new glow plug and see if that corrects the problem.
I didn't see a blue arrow pointing to a screw. But if the screw has a small spring on it, then it is most likely a idle speed screw. But it could be a air bleed screw for low speed mixture control, but it is hard to tell from the picture though.

earlwb

I see the other two pictures now. Although blurry I can make it out better.
On the left side of the carb, which is opposite of the throttle arm. The large screw like thing is the high speed needle. Right in front of the high speed needle is the low speed mixture screw (it is a airbleed carb design, similar to the OS carbs like it). Now just above the throttle arm is the idle speed screw.

downunder

Way back on page 1 I mentioned the Russian Stas's 42 and almost 2 years later I've finally found the info on them after following a couple of leads. I guess everyone is aware of the Marz 2.5 (both diesel and glow) which were made in Russia. When they ceased production in about 1990, Ilya Leydman (who had a business in Sydney called Macheast selling Russian engines) went to Russia in 1992 and, with some Russian friends, bought up most of the Marz machinery with the intention of making his own engine. As a trial run to learn how to make engines they decided on a simple 42 size with design cues based around both Webra and Profi. The Russian manager's son was called Stas so the engine was named Stas's. One of the things they played with was external finish so some had as cast finishes while others had machined fins. In all, they made 200 of the side exhaust and 50 of the rear exhaust. Ilya brought all of them back to Australia where some were then sold to Carlson Imports in America with the remainder being sold through Macheast.

At the top of page 2 Hobbsy mentioned that my Stas's looked similar to his Zeus 61 which just happens to be the engine that Ilya wanted to make . Ilya told me that he made both the Zeus 42 and 61 as well as a couple of rear exhaust 61's.

For those interested, [link=http://www.holdfastmac.com.au/Stass%27s%2042RE.html]here's[/link] a review I did on my RE version with a photo of my SE which shows the differences in finish.

earlwb

Nice story downunder, thanks for sharing with us. We rarely read or hear about what happened in Russia about their engines.

Paulino01

Hi to all,
Do you know where to buy russian glow plugs, like the one in the photo that you posted, i´m asking thesebecause i bought a RADUGA 7M and i´m using a normal hot Nº1, but when i take of the energy to the glow plug, the engine stops. Is it possible that the russian ones are better then the normal that i´m using in the engine!? Best regards,
Paulino Alves................Portugal

earlwb

I haven't needed to use more than a medium heat range plug and the engines would work fine, I rarely use anything but a Fox glow plug in my engines. On some occassions I used a Fox Miracle plug though. For competition I usually had to go with a more cool heat range glow plug. In your case I suspect the glow plug may be defective or worn out. Some engines tend to eat a glow plug or two during break in, due to the tiny bits of metal coming loose as the engine wears in. The other situation is bad glow fuel too. What kind of glow fuel are you using?

Someone makes the glow plugs inRussia. Norvel USA imports one here http://www.nvengines.com/index.php?p...mart&Itemid=67

The Cyclon Engine people also sells glow plugs http://www.rusengines.ru/?lang=en

I think the folks who sell the Parra Engines and others also sell the Russian glow plugs too http://www.clubtamaran.com/material.htm

Paulino01

Hi, i´m using 80% methilic alcohol / 20% ricine oil, i think you´r wright, the glow plugs i have are used, and i must go trying the regulation of the carburator. Thank´s for the tip´s and stay well.

earlwb

Your fuel looks to be reasonable. Unless the methanol absorbed too much moisture and is contaminated. But other than that I would suspect the glow plug is bad. I have had them do that before and when I put on a new plug, it started working correctly.

I suppose if you ran the engine way too rich it would drown out the glow plug too. So in that case maybe a little more lean is needed. You want to break in the engine running on the rich side, but not so rich as it drowns out the glow plug.

Paulino01

Hi, "earlwb",
I´ll try to regulate the carburator and so one (and i must buy some glow plug´s) but first i dismounted the engine to wash it with gasoline
and when is good washed i´m going topass a litlle ricine oil untill i have the glow plugs (in my city there´s only a rc models cars, planes,balsawood, and acessories but all for electric models) balsa isa very light wood for severall plane contructions, asyou know well, i´m going to visit the web sites you mention to see about the russian glow plugs. Thank´s and have a good week end.,
Paulino Alves

tiffitech

Oh, yes im late here...this engine is an Plain Bearing Raduga 7M, yes...

Paulino please put this engine in the trash somewhere, the piston of this thing isn't aluminum, it is cast iron and it is much to heavy.
This engine when running will shutter your RC in to parts. In a east german magazine was 30 years before was an article where the author
tried to solve this problem by making cut outs from the piston and removed as much as possible from the crank pin end of the crankshaft,
it will be run better but still is vibrating like hell. I got such a thing a half year ago with a bunch of other dumped engines, I don't even
looked at it closer since I already had such a thing around 1980...

Regards,
Holm

jaka

Hi!
I bought one of those 7.0cc Raduga engines 35 years ago from a CL combat friend here in sweden who had bought it from one of his Russian Cl flying friends . The engine was a total failiure! It could not be started without an electric starter and could not sustain rpm without the glow clip on.
Trow it away!

maxtenet

They are actually quite powerful but shake like a paint mixer. I took mine apart and lathed out the inside of the piston and drilled holes in the crank but still could not get it anywhere near balanced. More of a collector's item. One more thing. The standard Russian plugs are 2 volt, not 1.5 like ours. Swap it out and use some nitro and it will run.

Max[8D]

earlwb

Hummm, it makes me wonder if those particular Raduga engines needed higher nitro content in their fuel or not. If they were competing with them, they could have been using a fair amount of nitromethane in their glow fuel at the time. it sort of goes against the common practice of what everyone was doing in those areas though.

tiffitech

@maxtenet:
I had the old Raduga 7M running with 80/20 FAI Fuel this wasn't the problem, even with hand starting (since I had no starter to this time).
The russian plugs are proven to be good, that can't be the problem. The engine should run as it is but they came with an speed carb, no RC Carb like this on the picture above. I think Paulinos Engine is set heavily to fat at idle.

@earl: The russian engines from this time came with instructions that don't even mentioned nitromethane, this stuff wasn't easy to get in east germany and as far as I know in the USSR.

Regards,

Holm

earlwb

Yes I can agree then. I think the carb is set too rich on the low speed. Maybe the mid range needs fixing like I had to do on a 10cc Russian engine as well.   But that carb looks like it didn't come with the engine at first. Someone put it on later.  So the carb may be the problem.