jaka

Hi!
Of course it could be fuel! But I have had fuel standing in my flight box over the winter months (Oktober to beginning of April) have doing the same for 36 years without ever having noted any bad fuel...but it could of course happen in warmer climates than we have here in Sweden.

When starting an engine that has been laying for months or years for the first time its a good thing to remove the high speed needle and check so that there is no old oil crud or dirt particals inside stopping the fuel flow to the engine.

The carb you have is an airbleed carb which means it has got just a small air bleed screw controlling the idle mixture at low or mid rpm. This type of carb is very simple in its function and works just as well as a more complex two needle carb that most other large engines use.So don't replace it with another,it will work just fine if adjusted right.
How to set the air bleed screw: The air bleed screw (idle screw) should cover half of the small hole that you see in the carb when looking at the carb from the front...or just a tad less...that's the standard setting if you live and fly at sea-level.


By locking at the picture you showed. The 11x6 size prop is the size you should use, not a 10x6 prop!!! 10x6 is too small for a high winged trainer airplane flying at sea-level...and will rew around 14000-14500 using 5% nitro fuel,which I hope you use! No more nitro us necessary! It's very common in the US to use 15% nitro but this is just a waste of money for modern two stroke engines. But if you just have that fuel available, just use it,it will not harm your engine.
Letting your engine rew 14000rpm or more will not harm it in any way, but you will get better performance using a 11x6 prop and the engine will be quiter!
If on the other hand you intend to use it in a Q-500 typ aircraft (low winged airplane with a span of 130cm)...then a 10x6 or 9x7 APC or RAM prop will be the best...but I think this is not your intention...

Fuel tank location and size is very important!
The general rule is to mount the tank as close as possible to the engine as possible and having the tank at the correct hight! The center of the tank should be inline with the fuel intake orifice in the carb. It doesn't matter if the fuel hoses goes in arcs or whatever, the important thing is the the hight of the tank. The reason for the importance with tank hight is the engines capabilities of sucking fuel! Having the tank too low makes it harder for the engine/carb to overcome gravity! -Simple as that!
For a.40-.46 two stroke sport engine a 8-10 oz tank is the size to use. Not bigger!

Glow plug!
Using the correct glow plug is also important. OS 8 or Enya 3 are the "old stand by's" that works good in all sport engines. But as I said...there are many more that works too, the problem for a newbie is knowing which one ...I use Nova-Rossi 4 or Rossi 3 glow plugs in my OS, Sk , ASP, Kyosho, Webra, or MVVS .40 engines for slighly more rpm (using 10x6 props and 5% nitro fuel in my Q-500 racers).


Get rid of that plastic spinner though! A much better choice is a alumium spinner nut! Plastic spinners can wobble and can cause vibrations. Vibrations are not your problem in this case though, just a reminder that its not that good to use. I would also recommend another propeller. APC, RAM and Graupnerr Cam-prop are considered the best props today and White tipped MA props the worst (noisy and deliver no power).Scimitar Ma are better.But in your case , the prop is not to blame...

skypiratescotty

My Feedback: (32)

I agree and appreciate input from all sources. Unfortunately, my style of learning is being told to try this, this, and this, not learning by being constantly reminded of how new I am. By the way, I've been flying for ten years. I'm simply having problems with this engine. I may be wrong but when I read his posts they may as well start off by saying " man, i can't believe you're such an idiot, i've got so much more experience than you".

I guess I just can't appreciate the condescending attitude not to mention I really haven't gained any real positive input from his "advice". Everyone else is pretty much straight to the point and giving good advice on what to try.

OK, deep breath, Serenity Prayer,..... Dar Zeelon, Sir, Thank You for putting me in my place and thank you for the advice. I will try everything and anything to get this engine running perfectly!!


Scotty

skypiratescotty

My Feedback: (32)

Jaka
Thank you for taking the time to point out some useful information!!
Scotty

skypiratescotty

My Feedback: (32)

SUCCESS!!!!!!

Not sure of exact cuase cuz typical me tackles a problem from several angle at once.

1. Applied very thin layer RTV gasket maker on head, exhaust manifold and carb hold down screws.

2. Soaked carb in fuel overnight

3. Opened new jug 10% CoolPower

4. Ran it WOT for whole 10oz tank ( about 8 minutes)

It now will idle smoothly for as long as the day is long, has a screaming top end and very quick smooth transition from the two

I think I'll give it the same name as my dog........"KEEPER!!"


Thanks so much to everyone who took the time and thought to give input and help me get this thing right!!!

Scotty

bigedmustafa

My Feedback: (2)

That's terrific that you've got the thing running like an Enya now! I have a sneaking suspicion that your problem might return if you went back to the old bottle of fuel.

You will need to be careful not to fly Enya engines too much, or you will have to join our twelve-step group:

Big Ed Mustafa's 12 Steps for Enya Engine Addiction

1) I admit that I powerless to resist the allure of Enya engines.

2) I understand that a higher power (Ken Enya) can help me with regard to my lust for Enya engines.

3) I have made a choice to turn my life over to Ken Enya

4) I have made a fearless moral inventory of my RC air fleet

5) I have admitted to Ken Enya and another human being the mistakes and the shortcomings of my engine collection

6) I was entirely ready to have Ken Enya remove/replace these defects in my engine collection

7) I humbly asked Ken Enya to charge my Platinum Visa card to replace my engine collection's shortcomings (particularly any Evolution glow engines).

8) I made a list of all of the people I have harmed by suggesting they try Evolution or Aviastar glow engines, and became willing to make amends to them all.

9) I made direct amends to such people whenever possible, unless the flying of non-Enya glow engines had already converted them to all electric aircraft.

10) I continued to take a personal inventory my glow engines, and when I found an Evolution or Aviastar glow engine I promptly admitted it.

11) I sought through e-mail to improve my concious contact with Ken Enya, searching only for knowledge of Ken Enya's will for my RC fleet and the power to carry it out.

12) Having had a spiritual awakening as the result of these steps, I tried to carry this message to other Enya engine addicts, and to practice these principles in all of my affairs.

skypiratescotty

My Feedback: (32)

NOW THAT IS FUNNY RIGHT THERE!!!!!!

I'm never going back to the "old bottle", it's in the trash and me and the Enya are much better off without it!!!!!!

Scotty

fred985

alky is hydroscopik,,,[spell??],,,it absorbs water right out of the air. always keep your fuel containers tightly sealed.

JockC

Hey, Scotty, nice to hear you've got it going OK. My very first RC engine was an Enya 60 III with the G8 carb back in the late 70s if I remember right. Many happy hours on it, and others since. Good luck and happy flying.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

OK, Enya fans, I see that Scotts engine is a 6201 and mine is a 6301, mine is ringed, is 6201 the designation for AAC, Thanks, Dave

DarZeelon

Fred,


That attribute of methanol is that it is [link=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hygroscopy]hygroscopic[/link]. ...Yes, with a 'g'; not a 'd'.


Scotty,


Good for you! I am always happy to help.

Don't continue with 'Cruel Power' fuel. It is not the best for your engine.
If you want a Morgan fuel that will keep your engine in good shape; get some [link=http://www.morganfuel.com/]Omega[/link].

Cool-Power contains only synthetic lube, which is not even of a very good quality (compared to Sach Aerosave/AerosynthII/III, Motul Micro, or Model Technics EDL; which are all excellent, but not available in the US).

Castor oil is much better for your engine; and your fuel should contain a good measure of it in the lube package.