skypiratescotty

My Feedback: (32)

Hey All
Man I sure hope someone can help! I got a used Enya 45 CX Model 6201 that the man said ran perfect 6 months ago before he stored it in a bag. Anyway, it was completely clogged and would not take prime. I spent a couple hours with a turkey baster and fuel tubing to open the needle valve and I took out the idle mixture screw. I've got good priming and it'll start right up. It has a nice low idle for as long as I want, has great top end with high speed needle out 1 1/4 turn, but dies when going from idle to high speed quickly. I'm thinking maybe I should have left the idle mixture screw alone but it's too late. The engine is on a test stand and I am letting it cool down and just backed the idle mix screw out 1/2 turn thinking it might be too lean. I don't know?

I'm running 10% CoolPower and an OS #8plug with 11 x 6 MAS.

THIS CRAP ENDS TODAY!!!!!!

Any ideas are greatly appreciated
Scotty

TedMo

What you just did should help. I believe you were too lean on idle. It may take a bit of playing with it to get it right just take a bit at a time, it will require adjustying both lsn and hsn to get it right.

skypiratescotty

My Feedback: (32)

After backing out the lsn 1/2 turn it won't get to WOT. It is spitting fuel out of the carb. What? Is the lsn that sensitive. I'm gonna restart the whole deal at lsn in middle of opening, hsn 2 turns out. I don't know what else to do. I've had at least 50 engines and never had one run so badly. There is quite a bit of unburned fuel near the exhaust manifold if that gives any clues. I've heard that Enyas run better on the lean side and am finding that to be true with hsn so 2 turns out seems to be much. This one runs best about 1 1/4- 1 1/2 out on hs...............aaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr gggggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhh!!

Scotty

bigedmustafa

My Feedback: (2)

The only thing I can tell you, skypiratescotty, is that this engine will well be worth the effort. The 45 CX is one of my all-time favorite glow engines. I found mine would run fine if they were a little on the lean side, but they tend to pop glow plugs if you got too close to peak power.

I can't imagine why yours would be difficult to get dialed in, just rest assured you'll have a fantastic engine once you get it sorted out.

skypiratescotty

My Feedback: (32)

I have heard these are awesome engines and that is why I have'nt thrown it in the junk pile. It starts and idles perfectly. Now I just can't get past 1/3 throttle without spitting and sputtering then it dies. High speed is still 1 1/2 out and low speed seems to not matter since it idles great as long as lsn is somewhere near the middle of the little hole. 2 turns on the hsn definately sounds too rich to me.

scotty

skypiratescotty

My Feedback: (32)

what a little turd!!!

well, i've tried everything including replacing o-ring and the little tubing on the hsn. it starts and idles awesome but just won't go over 1/3 throttle. i started with lsn all out and adjusted in 1/16 turn at a time with no good results.

1. does anyone know roughly where to have the settings to be close?
2. is it possible the carby is shot and needs replaced?
3. there is unburned fuel all over the test bench and i have only used 1/2 of a 10oz. tank so far?

Scotty

skypiratescotty

My Feedback: (32)

actually, it'll start at 1/2 throttle and get to WOT. it's just that there is no transition from idle to high speed without spitting/sputtering and death!

JPMacG

My Feedback: (2)

Sounds like your low-end needle or air bleed screw is too rich. Try leaning the low end 1/8 turn at a time until you get a good transition from idle to full throttle. It may take you a lot of experimentation to find the right low-end setting. Maybe even several hours. It is a great engine and well worth the time.

JockC

Remove the head and muffler and check the orientation of the liner. Exhaust ports in the liner should line up exactly with the exhaust opening in the crankcase. I've struck this twicesame symptoms as you describe. Drives you mad. Good luck.

skypiratescotty

My Feedback: (32)

that's a great idea!!!!!

thank you

scotty

DarZeelon

Scotty and Jock,


I do not know what your actual experience in R/C engines is...

You are members of this forum from 2004 and 2005 respectively, but you don't seem to understand that even "a Rolls-Royce of an R/C engine"; if not properly adjusted, will simply be 'a piece of turd'; and will er, mmm,... behave like one too .

Just E-mail each other, or use the PM system, for this newbie 'back and forth'...


Scotty; listen to JPMacG, TedMo and to BigEd, who probably gave you the only really useful info until now.
Jock; while a misaligned sleeve will not allow any engine to run properly; it obviously did not rotate during storage; and I believe there is a locating pin to prevent incorrect assembly (if, that is, Scotty actually took it apart).


Scotty, you did not write which carburettor is instaled on your engine... Enya offered this engine with a two-needle carburettor; and also with a very precise air-bleed carburettor.
In the TN carburettor, the low-speed needle controls the mixture over the 0-80% throttle range; so its misadjustment will not allow the engine to transition properly.

The air-bleed carburettor is a gem. It has fuel metering; i.e. the fuel-orifice size changes as the throttle is operated (like the low-speed needle and nozzle do, in a TN carburettor).
The air-bleed is only an idle-trim; and it is only effective at, or just off idle.

If the air-bleed is too closed and the engine too rich at idle; transition will obviously be affected. But from half to full throttle, it will not.


Need more info about the carburettor...


EDIT: Typo.

skypiratescotty

My Feedback: (32)

DarZeelon

Sir, isn't sharing information and helping others what forums are designed for? Why PM each other and not allow other members to read posts so that they my share thier experience as well? Well, enough about forum use, I want to get this engine running right.

If you were attentive when reading earlier posts you would read that I disassembels the carby, not the entire engine. The needle valve was gummed shut and would not allow the engine to take prime. I soaked the carby in carb cleaner for two days then used a turkey baster with fuel tubing attached to pressurize the neddle assembly and got good fuel flow thru it and the lsn air bleed hole.

I took off the head and muffler last night and everything appears normal internally. The engine runs great except it won't transition from idle to high speed. If I start it at 1/2 throttle it will go to full with no problem and then dies below 1/3 throttle. If I start it at high idle it will run as long as I want. If I start at idle and slowly apply throttle it will start spitting fuel out of the carb by the time I get to 1/3 open and die.

I will repeat myself, Sir, I tried starting with idle backed all the way out (way too rich) and adjusted in 1/8 turns until lsn was completely closed (too lean) and didn't find a sweet spot anywhere in between. As long as the lsn was basically centered the engine would start with just a 1/2 second hit of the starter.

Anyway, please excuse me if I sound a little frustrated as I know this is a great engine from what people say and out of 50 or so engines over the past ten years I have never had one that I couldn't get right. This one too shall see the sky again someday!!

Scotty

skypiratescotty

My Feedback: (32)

Maybe someone knows more about this carb or of a good replacement. the engine has great compression and is smooth when it runs so if i need to replace carb, then what could i use?

DarZeelon

yes, Scotty.


I was just having my own laugh about someone with so few posts, helping someone with an even smaller number...
The 'smiles' were there BEFORE I had to edit inaccuracies in the post.
I have seen newbies try to help newbies; but the thread usually goes nowhere, until more experienced members step in.

I assumed the newbie status, because more experienced modelers, do chime-in to answer questions and help other members over time.
Their post-count after 6-7 years of membership, would typically be of 4-5 digits, rather than 1-2.

You did not write which carburettor it is, but you did mentioned fiddling with the idle-mixture screw...
I should have assumed it is the TN carburettor...

...But from the photo in your last post, I see it is the air-bleed variety...
That screw you mentioned is not an 'idle-mixture screw', but an idle-trim air-bleed adjuster.

Adjustment of this carburettor's idle mixture is 'reversed'; i.e. the further you open that screw (and thus the air-bleed orifice), the leaner the idle mixture becomes.
If it's too rich - open it further!


I don't own one, but have never seen any Enya engine that actually malfunctioned, or plainly wore out.

Misadjustments are possible, as well as dirt and other obstructions in the path of the fuel.
So, I can only assume that there is either dirt in the system, or that you still don't have the hang of adjusting this powerhouse.

skypiratescotty

My Feedback: (32)

why are you so hung up on how many posts someone has and attach a status based upon their post count? typically, i search, read and apply info without posting. you know, keep my ears open and my mouth shut!

thanks for the info on the carb. i just removed it and have it soaking in glow fuel. there has to be a restriction somewhere. thanks for pointing out that i don't have the hang of properly tuning this engine. now, do you have any suggestions sir or are you just gonna keep pointing to my inexperience?

Scotty

mike109

G'day

I have a few Enyas but I mostly only use the four strokes. However, I have had a problem similar to that which you describe with a Super Tigre 51. It would start, it would idle but it would die as soon as I tried to accelerate.

I ended up solving the problem with an Enya #3 plug and low nitro (10%) fuel. The Tigre now runs extremely well.

As a starting point, I would set the air bleed so that the screw half covers the hole. This is the "factory" position. Then if at idle it is loading up, you open the hole. If you try to open the throttle from idle and it dies, you close it a bit.

I would also try some different fuel. I was having a similar problem recently with a Saito four stroke. It would idle but would suddenly die for no apparent reason. We tried some known good fuel and the problem went away. Perhaps your fuel has picked up some moisture?

As Dar has suggested, you may still have a blockage somewhere. The fact that the engine was in storage for quite a while points to this though you did say you think you have cleaned it out it may be worth a second attempt if a different plug and/or some different fuel do not make any difference.

Cheers

Mike in Oz

PS I do have an engine the same as the one you are trying to get running but I have never run it. Perhaps I will dig it out tomorrow and have a play with it. I have just put some new bearings in it. Interesting inside - it is AAC - the liner is chromed aluminium.

mike109

And one other small thing - when I asked the forum about my CX-45 I was told to use a 10 x 6 prop to let it unload properly. The prop that came with it was an APC 10 x 6 so the previous owner had been using that on it. I am sure an 11 x 6 would run on it but the "experts" told me that it would run a lot better with the smaller prop. I was told that these engines need to rev to really perform. I suspect that it might be rather noisy like this though.

Something else to try.

Mike

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Scott, that airbleed screw is a trim to compensate different nitro %s, props and glow plugs. Set it halfway across its inlet hole to have a starting place. That is a metered carb and has very accurately machined fuel passages that overlap more and less as the barrel is rotated to do the metering. If it were in my hands I'd start it, slowly open the throttle leaning the HS screw as I opened it to keep it clean running, Let it howl at full throttle for several minutes and flush the carb out.

skypiratescotty

My Feedback: (32)

thanks guys

Hobsy, i had the same thought and ran it WOT but for only maybe 30 seconds. I will try again after lunch and just let er' scream!!!!

Thanks for all the usefull info. I surely do appreciate the help since I'm usually able to figure things out. This has had me simply scratching my head but I know this engine will run awesome soon!!


Scotty

DarZeelon

Scotty,


It takes a while, before one's experience with doing something, becomes ample enough to be called 'got the hang of it'...

I am not here to scorn you (even if I did joke about inexperience); but rather to help you solve the problem with your engine.
The major parts of my posts were to the point.


I don't think the carburettor sustained damage that would warrant its replacement with another, or with a different make.
Once you understand the adjustment of the air-bleed and are sure there is a problem (rather than mediocre adjustment), you can take it apart again.

If you do search for dirt in it, check the fuel-metering section/channel in the throttle valve, or where it 'mates' with the fuel inlet.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Dar and Scotty, here are some pics to illustrate what is being said. If you want to tame the very loud Enya muffler an MDS .48/.68 muffler will bolt right on. The one pictured is a .58 muffler. MDS varied the length to accomodate different engines. The .48 muffler would about .5" shorter than this one. Interestingly the fuel does not flow through the carb barrel, the barrel resides about 3/32" from the end of the carb body and the fuel flows around the end of the barrel in the passage in picture #2 then in through the metering slot.

DarZeelon

Thank you for posting this photo (#2) of the throttle valve, David.

I looked all over the web, but could not find one.
I never actually saw one, but its function hinted to me that it will look like that.

The YS metered air-bleed carburettor has a differently shaped channel/slot.


This one is kind of reminiscent of the one in Perry carburettors.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Glow two-strokes that are tuned to be powerful at high speed are often stumblers when the throttle barrel is jammed open. Everyone used to know that, but that was back before 3D and Fun Flying were popular. One of the reasons that four-strokes became so popular was their ability to accelerate rapidly without stumbling, when compared to the average two-stroke glow engine.

So, what am I saying? Your expectations are out of line and your prop is too big. The Enya .45CX will pull 11x6, 12x5-6 props easily, but its true nature won't be realized until you drop down to a 10x6 prop and tune it up for max rpm, minus a couple of hundred rpm off the top. In fact, being an AAC piston/liner equipped engine, it likes to run a tad leaner than ABC or ABN engines. Don't be afraid to let it spin up. That is what it was designed to do. Not only that, but instead of fading (sagging) from going lean in the climb, this little rascal is designed to keep on chugging uphill without overheating.

As you may have gathered, the Enya .45CX would not be my first choice for an engine to fly 3D, although it does do well at Fun Flying if you learn to compensate for its characteristics.

If, after all of this, you still do not like this engine, and it happens, put it in a box and send it to me along with your address. I'll send you a brand new, never used, NIB ASP or Magnum .52 two-stroke, or an ASP .61 four-stroke, new, never ran, in return. I love the AAC Enya CX engines that were produced in the mid eighties. I have close to a dozen now.


Ed Cregger

Epbddsb

I was having almost the exact same problem with an Evolution 46 engine. I kept reading the manual and evrything kept saying fuel problem. After replacing all the orings and almost crashing several times, I finally listened to the advice in the manual. I got a brand new fresh bottle of fuel and the problem went away immediately. The fuel apparently has a tendency to absorb moisture; the water mixes in so you never even know it's there. I hope this will help.

paul246

My Feedback: (9)

Scotty,

I would consider myself fortunate to have Dar Zeelon offer his assistance, he is very knowledgable.