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Old 01-04-2014, 02:14 PM
  #1076  
Orion09
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The pushrods on the 777 are 56.4 mm.
Old 01-04-2014, 02:28 PM
  #1077  
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Can't you order some tube stock, cut it to length, and use the ends that you already have? I thought I read somewhere in here where someone had done that.
Old 01-04-2014, 04:19 PM
  #1078  
Pete Bergstrom
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There is plenty of adjustment in the tappet screws to cover any discrepancies. Yes, the 777 pushrods will work fine on the 770.

Pete
Old 01-04-2014, 04:38 PM
  #1079  
Pull Up Now!
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I agree, JB won't work. What's needed are some precision, pressfit steel rings around all the ends as reinforcement. You'd need a lathe to make parts like that. I do think the replacement Evo777 pushrods will work for your 770 though. I measured the lengths of 10 of mine. They range from a low of 56.74mm to a high of 57.11mm. That's a difference of .014". Not much. At 57.4mm, your pushrod is no more than .011" (inches) longer than my longest pushrod. That's probably not much more than 1 turn of the tappet adjustment screw.
Old 01-04-2014, 05:27 PM
  #1080  
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Thanks, guys. Sounds like a few new pushrods are in my future!
Old 01-04-2014, 05:44 PM
  #1081  
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Yea....thats a bit disturbing for me. Just have to keep a close eye on mine.
Old 01-05-2014, 02:59 AM
  #1082  
Linkan2
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Hello everyone
over time, I have bought some parts, if dropping a push rod when you go to the field.
I have some with me out.
It takes a long time to get home parts to Sweden.
so my tip buy home parts til your radial engines.
it is so sad to go home without getting fly
Lars
Old 01-05-2014, 05:31 AM
  #1083  
Maxam
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As inexpensive as they are, get a bunch! Also, inspect the cam followers at the end that rides on the cams. Some of mine lost the polish and pitted. It is nice they are supplied with the pushrods! -Tom
Old 01-05-2014, 09:20 AM
  #1084  
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Hi Guys
I have a evo 7-77cc.
I am just about to fit the engine in my 50 to 60 cc yak 55.
I needed to move the engine forward 32mm and have had turned up out of aircraft grade alloy some stand offs, they measure 32mm long by 25mm diameter.
While reading the owners manual looking for how far back I can mount my fuel tank I notice they say do not use stand offs as the vibration will damage the back mounting plate and the engine will detach from the model.
Are any of you guys using stand offs? the stand offs at 25mm diameter do have a good surface area to spread the load. Or do I have to make up a solid firewall 32mm thick it will weight a lot!!!!
Also they say that the fuel tank can only be mounted 100mm away from the carb?i need atleast140 to fit the tank in the right position.
How far back are your tanks ?
Many thanks Steve
Old 01-05-2014, 10:05 AM
  #1085  
redball8
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I usually make standoffs out of hardwood or plywood - 32mm would be 1-1/4", so not too heavy? With the three-bolt pattern of a 777 might be easiest to glue up a piece of 1/2" and 3/4", then saw & sand it to a shape similar to the mounting flange. A couple of coats of epoxy and you're ready to go!
Old 01-05-2014, 11:12 AM
  #1086  
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Hi Redball
Many thanks for the input, will give it a look.
rgds Steve
Old 01-05-2014, 11:50 AM
  #1087  
Orion09
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This worked for me,mounting the engine to ply and using standoffs between the firewall and the ply.The front of my tank is 230mm behind the carb and it works fine.
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:06 PM
  #1088  
wingart
 
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Hi Orion
Many thanks for the photo. Looks great.
Iam pleased about the tank position this has saved me a big headache.
Thanks again Steve
Old 01-05-2014, 02:45 PM
  #1089  
redball8
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Just checked the CG on my Giant Telemaster, fitted with UMS Seidel 990. Measured CG was within 1/8" of calculated value; all-up weight 36#. Ready for break-in, weather permitting!
Old 01-06-2014, 01:15 AM
  #1090  
Cristian2fast4you
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Hi Wingart,

Here is how I done the spacer for H9 Corsair.
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Old 01-06-2014, 02:03 PM
  #1091  
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Originally Posted by 77chickenhawk
In my gas engines I use the Sunoco 110 octane leaded.
Originally Posted by SWORDSN
Leaded is still available?

Most small airports have at least 100LL. Slightly larger ones still have 110LL.


(sorry Im a month behind)
Old 01-06-2014, 03:52 PM
  #1092  
SWORDSN
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Better late than never!
Old 01-08-2014, 06:39 AM
  #1093  
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I am afraid that Dad Roman is correct. I have tried every available solvent. The best I can do is soften it somewhat and carefully scrape it off.

I like using masks cut by the computer controlled vinyl cutter. Previously I cut them myself from low tack shelf paper. The large circles in particular are much more accurately done by the computer controlled device. Any advice on a suitable material with a lower tack adhesive? I would never again try the commonly available vinyl, presently used for graphics, as a mask.
Old 01-08-2014, 09:25 AM
  #1094  
redball8
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I cut masks myself from Frisket - old school, but it works!
Old 01-08-2014, 03:30 PM
  #1095  
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Originally Posted by j lauria
I am afraid that Dad Roman is correct. I have tried every available solvent. The best I can do is soften it somewhat and carefully scrape it off.

I like using masks cut by the computer controlled vinyl cutter. Previously I cut them myself from low tack shelf paper. The large circles in particular are much more accurately done by the computer controlled device. Any advice on a suitable material with a lower tack adhesive? I would never again try the commonly available vinyl, presently used for graphics, as a mask.
Yea...I have a lot of background in fighting adhesive

Anything stronger than a general solvent will start to melt the paint itself.....ouch.

I used 6inch silicone tape, but this is a roll like ductape so its not cuttable on a plotter/cutter. (dadgummed expensive too)!!!

Here's a crazy idea for your cutter. I have 16 inch clear tack tape. maybe you have some 6". Try removing the vynil from the slick backing paper and then put the tack tape on that then cut it. With that adhesive designed to "let go" you might have better luck.
Old 03-19-2014, 09:59 AM
  #1096  
Cristian2fast4you
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Brake in of my EVO 7-77 continues. Hope to finish in next weekend.
http://youtu.be/FXNfKSA--lI
Old 04-11-2014, 09:59 AM
  #1097  
Maxam
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Hi all, It is just about 70 degrees here in Indianapolis. Thought I would go over a short check list to begin the flying season.
1. Is your engine clean? Brake cleaner is effective but if used it will remove ALL oil!!
2. lube the followers, pushrod ends, rocker pivots, between the rocker and valve stem and the stem itself within the spring. I like those model train oilers.
3. Drain the lower cylinders of oil! There will be a lot of oil!
4. Valves adjusted???
5. Cycle the glow igniter batteries.
6. Mounting bolts tight?
7. Prop nut tight?
8. Correct oil content in the fuel?
Wishing all a great flying season! -Tom
Old 04-11-2014, 10:01 AM
  #1098  
Maxam
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Oops duplicate.
Old 04-12-2014, 08:27 AM
  #1099  
blw
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Originally Posted by redball8
I cut masks myself from Frisket - old school, but it works!
Very, very old school. The job was called commercial art back then too. An old timer once told me that if you knew two words, frisket and font, you were hired on the spot by almost any company looking for a commercial artist.
Old 04-14-2014, 06:32 AM
  #1100  
slskn
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Ok, here are some pics of my Stearman, and thanks to Rick, "Pull up now" on the exhaust ring "aka" Lowes sprinker ring, as this was made as per the pics done by Rick, on thread #527 page 22, finally got the engine mounted and now need to hook every thing up and should be able to maiden the first flight in a week or so.
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Last edited by slskn; 04-15-2014 at 05:05 AM.


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