UMS Evolution Radial Care and Operation
07-14-2014, 08:13 AM
#1176
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: East Aurora,
NY
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A progress report on my 9-99 in my 87 in. 29 lb.Stearman. It flies the model very well. I am getting 5000 rpm with a 24X12 prop. It idles solidly at 1500 to 1800 rpm with or without glow support. It starts easily with electric starter in about 2 seconds with no choking. The top 5 cylinders reach temperarues of 125to 130 degrees F. The lower four cylinders reach 110 to 118 degrees F. These temps after running at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle for several minutes. I assume that this normal and they are all operating. On several occaisons when I have advanced to WOT from 1/2 throttle on the ground I reached only 4300 rpms. When that happened I reduced throttle to 1/4 and rapidly advanced to WOT and reached 5000 rpm. I am using on board glo support. I wonder if I lost a cylinder and then relighted it or am I loading up with fuel. So far following Maxam's advise on after run care using double the amount of air tool oil and Blue Blocker I have had no crunchie sounds.
07-15-2014, 06:37 AM
#1177
My Feedback: (4)
Well just a report,
mixing my own fuel the first batch, I mixed some methanol 64 0z., and 6.4 oz. of klots oil (80% synthetic 20% castor) (I know, I know it was more than half a gallon), no nitro, and tried to run My 7-77, it would run good as long as I kept the glo switch on but as soon as I switched the glo off it would lose power and cylinders, ran terrible would not even throttle back up, so I drained tank, I added 5% nitro, 3oz. and tried again,same results, drained tank and same results would not stay running without the glo on. 2nd batch I made was 1 gal. 128 oz. 108 oz. of methanol, 13oz. 10%, of the klots oil same oil, 7 oz. of nitro 5%,= 128 oz. and got the same results ran good until you turned off the glo switch, then added 7 more oz. of nitro, to this same gallon, with same results, drained tank, now, next test I mixed 12 oz. of my Wildcat fuel (18% oil and 15% nitro) and 12 oz. of methanol only= 24 oz. surprisingly ran a little longer but when the glo switched off after 10 or so seconds lost power again with the same results, now all this testing without messing with the carb adjustments at all, then went back to the original "Ritches Brew " of 9 % oil( straight synthetic) and 5% nitro, and walla ran just beautiful even with the glo switch off, actually got a flight in after all this, now, I could have tried to adjust the carb, but wanted to achieve the same grade or blend to make it run the same as the Ritches brew with the same settings of the carb, so now just wondering if the mixture is missing something or too much oil? or not enough nitro? maybe the methanol is a lower grade than it should be?, or nitro not as good a grade ? not giving up! but will order some more Ritches brew, and, maybe try adjusting the carb on some of these blends just for the fun of it, so testing goes on (: ...............Steve.
mixing my own fuel the first batch, I mixed some methanol 64 0z., and 6.4 oz. of klots oil (80% synthetic 20% castor) (I know, I know it was more than half a gallon), no nitro, and tried to run My 7-77, it would run good as long as I kept the glo switch on but as soon as I switched the glo off it would lose power and cylinders, ran terrible would not even throttle back up, so I drained tank, I added 5% nitro, 3oz. and tried again,same results, drained tank and same results would not stay running without the glo on. 2nd batch I made was 1 gal. 128 oz. 108 oz. of methanol, 13oz. 10%, of the klots oil same oil, 7 oz. of nitro 5%,= 128 oz. and got the same results ran good until you turned off the glo switch, then added 7 more oz. of nitro, to this same gallon, with same results, drained tank, now, next test I mixed 12 oz. of my Wildcat fuel (18% oil and 15% nitro) and 12 oz. of methanol only= 24 oz. surprisingly ran a little longer but when the glo switched off after 10 or so seconds lost power again with the same results, now all this testing without messing with the carb adjustments at all, then went back to the original "Ritches Brew " of 9 % oil( straight synthetic) and 5% nitro, and walla ran just beautiful even with the glo switch off, actually got a flight in after all this, now, I could have tried to adjust the carb, but wanted to achieve the same grade or blend to make it run the same as the Ritches brew with the same settings of the carb, so now just wondering if the mixture is missing something or too much oil? or not enough nitro? maybe the methanol is a lower grade than it should be?, or nitro not as good a grade ? not giving up! but will order some more Ritches brew, and, maybe try adjusting the carb on some of these blends just for the fun of it, so testing goes on (: ...............Steve.
07-15-2014, 07:09 AM
#1178
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: near Innsbruck, AUSTRIA
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I took the Stearman to the first major show two weeks ago and it performed very well. I am very very happy with the Evo 7-77. I turn it 14 times with choke closed and it starts on the first flip every single time. It was quite funny having the moki guys next to me flipping their engines over and over and over and little Stearman just roared to life immediately.
As far as fuel is concerned, I am keeping it simple and am following the manual. I buy Rapicon Fuel with 10% Nitro, 18%oil and mix it 50/50 with pure Methanol. Easy as that. I suck at numbers so thats the easiest way for me to get it right
As far as fuel is concerned, I am keeping it simple and am following the manual. I buy Rapicon Fuel with 10% Nitro, 18%oil and mix it 50/50 with pure Methanol. Easy as that. I suck at numbers so thats the easiest way for me to get it right
07-17-2014, 05:24 AM
#1179
My Feedback: (4)
A progress report on my 9-99 in my 87 in. 29 lb.Stearman. It flies the model very well. I am getting 5000 rpm with a 24X12 prop. It idles solidly at 1500 to 1800 rpm with or without glow support. It starts easily with electric starter in about 2 seconds with no choking. The top 5 cylinders reach temperarues of 125to 130 degrees F. The lower four cylinders reach 110 to 118 degrees F. These temps after running at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle for several minutes. I assume that this normal and they are all operating. On several occaisons when I have advanced to WOT from 1/2 throttle on the ground I reached only 4300 rpms. When that happened I reduced throttle to 1/4 and rapidly advanced to WOT and reached 5000 rpm. I am using on board glo support. I wonder if I lost a cylinder and then relighted it or am I loading up with fuel. So far following Maxam's advise on after run care using double the amount of air tool oil and Blue Blocker I have had no crunchie sounds.
-Steve
07-19-2014, 04:01 AM
#1180
Steve, a little trick if you do not want to remove the plugs and clear out the oil, Start your engine and run it a while like a full minute to heat it up. Shut it down and then wait a minute. Restart and all cylinders should fire. Heating the engine a bit will (on mine anyway) will clear the plugs. -Tom
07-19-2014, 04:20 AM
#1181
Senior Member
Today has been in the field for testing.
The engine is still weak.
cam time was before for late now, I probably got it a little early?
so i was wondering if any of you succeeded beter than me.
And can tell cam time to be set?
Lars
The engine is still weak.
cam time was before for late now, I probably got it a little early?
so i was wondering if any of you succeeded beter than me.
And can tell cam time to be set?
Lars
07-20-2014, 04:57 AM
#1182
My Feedback: (4)
Tom thanks for the tip I will try that next time, I have been going to air shows every weekend in the Michigan area and putting on several flights with the Stearman and the corsair getting lots of comments all good and the fuel I have mixed is working out real well engines are running fabulous, the only downside of the comments is the engines are too quiet and not loud enough, and my comment is at least they don`t sound like a chain saw going through the air and I am not breaking any sound rules-Steve.
-Steve.
07-31-2014, 02:03 PM
#1183
Yes Steve, they are quiet. I have recently been flying my Robin Hood with the 9-90 in it. About 130 flights now. After run air tool oil and the aquarium air pump overnight....all is well. Engine good for another 5000 (ha!) flights. The thread has been quiet. Any new projects anyone?? -Tom
07-31-2014, 03:53 PM
#1184
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Naperville,
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I finished up my Happy Models (Pacific Aero models knock-off) Gee Bee Y in June. Stock wire landing gear wasn't tempered, so I figured out how to mount Robart struts in it (TopFlite P51). Also made non-scale split flaps for it, so I have half a chance of landing it at our short field (200' runway, 300' grass). 97" span, all-up weight is 25#, has UMS-Seidel 770 with onboard glow. Hope to maiden it in the next month or so, at a larger field ...
07-31-2014, 05:04 PM
#1186
My Feedback: (4)
RedBall,
Nice looking GEE BEE !!!!, should fly real nice.
Hello tom, I have a friend that has 3 Robin Hood airplanes and loves them (sadly they all have chain saw sound), anyway, I tried your method of burning out the oil in the plugs as you have described and it does work, although it takes a lot longer for them to "clean out" like 3 or 4 minutes, but here is some pics of what the plugs look like when I first take them out, I have become an expert on taking plugs in and out with out ruinning the threads, it is a little Quicker to get in the air, so I don`t mind, but am wondering if maybe I am putting in too much after run? I do have to be careful when turning over the engine by hand to not get a Hydraulic lock through the week when periodically turning the engine to help coat the bearings, but after cleaning out the plugs and seeing the oil drain out when plugs are out, I am careful to start the engine so nothing breaks. also a little nervous about doing the valve adjustment, so far the engines are running fabulous, but noticing a little bit more rattling? (loose)? noise from My 9-99, but don`t want to fool with it until they need to be done, hoping to finish out the year, with out the adjustment. just a side note my o.s. 320 4 cyl. has not had a valve adjustment in 7 or so years and just flew it yesterday and still runs fabulous even has the original plugs from 13 years ago!!! what a great engine, as are these radials . 
Nice looking GEE BEE !!!!, should fly real nice.
Hello tom, I have a friend that has 3 Robin Hood airplanes and loves them (sadly they all have chain saw sound)
, anyway, I tried your method of burning out the oil in the plugs as you have described and it does work, although it takes a lot longer for them to "clean out" like 3 or 4 minutes, but here is some pics of what the plugs look like when I first take them out, I have become an expert on taking plugs in and out with out ruinning the threads, it is a little Quicker to get in the air, so I don`t mind, but am wondering if maybe I am putting in too much after run? I do have to be careful when turning over the engine by hand to not get a Hydraulic lock through the week when periodically turning the engine to help coat the bearings, but after cleaning out the plugs and seeing the oil drain out when plugs are out, I am careful to start the engine so nothing breaks. also a little nervous about doing the valve adjustment, so far the engines are running fabulous, but noticing a little bit more rattling? (loose)? noise from My 9-99, but don`t want to fool with it until they need to be done, hoping to finish out the year, with out the adjustment. just a side note my o.s. 320 4 cyl. has not had a valve adjustment in 7 or so years and just flew it yesterday and still runs fabulous even has the original plugs from 13 years ago!!! what a great engine, as are these radials . Last edited by slskn; 07-31-2014 at 05:22 PM.
08-01-2014, 06:06 PM
#1187
Wow you have a pegasus 320!? I have two of the 240 versions. Possibly the finest running engine on earth! Yeah the plugs last forever. Even if you oil the engine a little bit the lower plugs fill right up! The valve adjustment is important. You can do it . Follow my directions early in the thread.
08-01-2014, 07:18 PM
#1188
My Feedback: (4)
OK Tom, I know I can do the valves, just a little nervous, last time I only did it one time around for each cyl. and used the wrong feelers gauge, but will pay closer attention this time and follow your advice. yes I had 2 of the o.s. 240`s and loved them but sold them and got the 320 you are right about that, I think they are the best engine made by o.s., will be flying the Stearman tomorrow , hope the weather holds out, supposed to rain in the morning and quit in the afternoon, take care -Steve
08-03-2014, 07:49 AM
#1189
Just a heads up on a lean running 7-77... Mine was running lean and fast on idle and what ever I did it wouldn't slow up. Bought a new carb for it thinking that could be the problem.
Today on taking the engine out I thought that I would check all the engine bolts as it was all easy to get to.
It turns out all the cylinder intake nuts on the pipes from the crankcase were little loose ! So air must have been sucked in on all 7 Cylinders.
Check yours if you have a lean running engine.
Today on taking the engine out I thought that I would check all the engine bolts as it was all easy to get to.
It turns out all the cylinder intake nuts on the pipes from the crankcase were little loose ! So air must have been sucked in on all 7 Cylinders.
Check yours if you have a lean running engine.
08-03-2014, 11:14 AM
#1190
My Feedback: (4)
http://youtu.be/udRhKyPidM4
Here is the flight I had yesterday, now 25 or so flights on the Stearman, so far so good, this is the Flair kit @ 32lbs. 89 in. wing turning a 24x10 prop @ 4900 to 5000 rpm on the ground, still running on the rich side, but starts and runs great.-Steve.
Here is the flight I had yesterday, now 25 or so flights on the Stearman, so far so good, this is the Flair kit @ 32lbs. 89 in. wing turning a 24x10 prop @ 4900 to 5000 rpm on the ground, still running on the rich side, but starts and runs great.-Steve.
08-04-2014, 09:56 AM
#1191
Just a heads up on a lean running 7-77... Mine was running lean and fast on idle and what ever I did it wouldn't slow up. Bought a new carb for it thinking that could be the problem.
Today on taking the engine out I thought that I would check all the engine bolts as it was all easy to get to.
It turns out all the cylinder intake nuts on the pipes from the crankcase were little loose ! So air must have been sucked in on all 7 Cylinders.
Check yours if you have a lean running engine.
Today on taking the engine out I thought that I would check all the engine bolts as it was all easy to get to.
It turns out all the cylinder intake nuts on the pipes from the crankcase were little loose ! So air must have been sucked in on all 7 Cylinders.
Check yours if you have a lean running engine.
What a difference!
I used to run a 22x10 Xoar. Tried that first it topped out at 7400rpm on WOT. A Xoar 24x10 was then tried, 6300rpm. Pulls like a train, very happy now
. On line calculator says about 16.5kg of static thrust.
Last edited by cymaz; 08-04-2014 at 10:01 AM.
08-04-2014, 01:54 PM
#1192
I had a lean running 777 last flight today! Soon after takeoff I knew I had lost a cylinder. Then found I had no throttle control. At WOT or idle the engine stayed at,Im quessing,4000 rpm. Circled till it ran out of fuel. Turnes out I lost a push rod and cam follower so it was sucking air and would not idle down. First real issue with this engine in two years.
08-05-2014, 04:21 PM
#1193
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Oliver,
BC, CANADA
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Anyone have any spare lifters and pushrods for the 7-77 lying around? My cowl came loose on my Yak 55 this weekend and knocked one pushrod and lifter out. Horizon won't have any until beginning of september and I have an airshow to fly first weekend in september. Any help would be much appreciated.
08-05-2014, 05:14 PM
#1195
My Feedback: (4)
http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/p/1/
flingwinger
here is another place you could try, they supposedly have spare parts on their web site.
any one know if there are any places or anywhere you can get parts or service for a Siedel 5 cyl.,??, I have a friend that wants to sell me his brand new in the box 5 cyl. never been out of the box, this is the large one that swings a 32 in. prop. he bought it years ago with a modelbeau large Gee Bee arf, still in the box also, but not sure if I want to because of the availability of the engine parts?, heck of a deal though?
flingwinger
here is another place you could try, they supposedly have spare parts on their web site.
any one know if there are any places or anywhere you can get parts or service for a Siedel 5 cyl.,??, I have a friend that wants to sell me his brand new in the box 5 cyl. never been out of the box, this is the large one that swings a 32 in. prop. he bought it years ago with a modelbeau large Gee Bee arf, still in the box also, but not sure if I want to because of the availability of the engine parts?, heck of a deal though?
08-05-2014, 11:53 PM
#1197
Senior Member
Hello
entligen now so have got the right cam setup on my 7-35.
RPM is now with a Graupner G-Sonic 18x8 7200th
and Stearman fly very well again.
going out to the field tomorrow and test a 17x10 APC.
I will return Lars
entligen now so have got the right cam setup on my 7-35.
RPM is now with a Graupner G-Sonic 18x8 7200th
and Stearman fly very well again.
going out to the field tomorrow and test a 17x10 APC.
I will return Lars