UMS Evolution Radial Care and Operation
#1476
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Maxim, the first time you started your engine did you hand crank it? Mine is so stiff and hardly no compression. I don't think I could hand start it until I have some runtime on it.
GaryM
GaryM
#1477
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Hi Gary,
Wish I was in Florida right now (it's 20 here in Penna) - I'm also in the process of breaking in (I hate that term) a new 777. So far, I have about 25 minutes on it and I can feel a big difference already in the way it feels as I rotate it. I doubt if yours will start unless you use a starter of some sort. I tried my trusty Hobbico "Hi-Torque" model and it quickly gave up (literally) - had to tear it apart and repair it. I then removed its starter cone and made a mount in order to put it on my 1/2" portable drill. THAT worked! Engine scared me the first time it started - I had the throttle set at about 1/4 which was too high. Good luck to you and stay in touch - we can break in those engines together! :-)
Wish I was in Florida right now (it's 20 here in Penna) - I'm also in the process of breaking in (I hate that term) a new 777. So far, I have about 25 minutes on it and I can feel a big difference already in the way it feels as I rotate it. I doubt if yours will start unless you use a starter of some sort. I tried my trusty Hobbico "Hi-Torque" model and it quickly gave up (literally) - had to tear it apart and repair it. I then removed its starter cone and made a mount in order to put it on my 1/2" portable drill. THAT worked! Engine scared me the first time it started - I had the throttle set at about 1/4 which was too high. Good luck to you and stay in touch - we can break in those engines together! :-)
#1478
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Hello Ted,
Thanks for the reply. Come on down. The weather here in central FL is very nice today. Did you choke yours until it fired or what? I will keep the throttle down to about 1/8 and see what happens. I plan on trying to start it tomorrow. My only concern is getting hyd. lock but that obviously wasn't a problem for you. In addition to the 735 I have the 777 which I will start on next.
GaryM
Thanks for the reply. Come on down. The weather here in central FL is very nice today. Did you choke yours until it fired or what? I will keep the throttle down to about 1/8 and see what happens. I plan on trying to start it tomorrow. My only concern is getting hyd. lock but that obviously wasn't a problem for you. In addition to the 735 I have the 777 which I will start on next.
GaryM
#1479
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I did choke the engine pretty hard. When I first turned the 777 over, it felt like a rust bucket, right out of the box. It's as though they forgot to oil it after the "20 minute" test run in India. Worried me a lot and I doused the motor with air tool oil and kept turning it over until the engine felt smooth. Took a while but in the process, there might have been quite a collection of oil in the crankcase. I think that's why I need a bunch of choke. Anyway, seems to run well except if I advance the throttle past 1/4 of the way, seems like the engine starves which I attribute to a small hole in the filter I'm using. I have changed that and will see if that makes a difference next time. Either today of tomorrow. I can't get over how quiet this engine is, btw. Using a 24x8 prop for break in.
#1480
#1482
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Dear Maxam - I have read the 777 forum almost entirely and have learned a lot! In fact, I ordered a small (quiet) aquarium pump based on your posts - the air movement to evaporate the water sure makes sense! I have mixed ATF with my air tool lube and that should help too. Not sure what else I can do other than making sure no fuel is left in the crankcase. On another subject, I now have about 45 minutes of run time on the new 777 and turning the engine over seems very good (compared to the initial crunchy feel). My one troubling observation deals with the engine dying after advancing the throttle more than about 1/4 of the way. I am using large fuel tubing, the clunk seemed to be of the large variety (although I did not drill it out--yet), and I can't think of any other constriction that would cause fuel starvation. Perhaps I don't have enough time on the engine to be concerned yet, but, I haven't noticed any improvement regarding this aspect. One other observation was the red gasket on the needle valve seemed to have been torn slightly when I first got the engine - in fact, the needle valve was partially unscrewed to the point where the gasket was visible. The set screw that is to hold the needle valve extension was missing too - HH sent a carb rebuild kit that contained the 3mm set screw and a few gaskets - I plan on replacing the needle valve gasket but haven't done that yet. Any comments are certainly welcomed and appreciated. Temperature here in PA today hit 42 - maybe spring really IS just around the corner. Thanks for all of your insight, Maxam!
#1483
My Feedback: (11)
Hello Guys, I made a new "bolt ON kit, and a full gas conversion to gas using a Walbro carb exactly like I sent Dave.
Here you can see it running.
Thanks
Adrian
http://youtu.be/I0r5-1dA3oQ
Here you can see it running.
Thanks
Adrian
http://youtu.be/I0r5-1dA3oQ
#1484
My Feedback: (207)
Hello Guys, I made a new "bolt ON kit, and a full gas conversion to gas using a Walbro carb exactly like I sent Dave.
Here you can see it running.
Thanks
Adrian
http://youtu.be/I0r5-1dA3oQ
Here you can see it running.
Thanks
Adrian
http://youtu.be/I0r5-1dA3oQ
#1485
My Feedback: (11)
@ TimD
Kit content:
- CH 7 Cyl CDI 6-7.4v
- New Prop Drive with magnet ring
- Sensor Holder - ( Bolt ON or "Glue ON" )
- 7 1/4-32 Spark Plugs
- Walbro Carb assembly
- Throttle easy hook-up
- Timing Kit
- Tachometer
- Opto Kill SW
Full Gas Kit price $550
Kit content:
- CH 7 Cyl CDI 6-7.4v
- New Prop Drive with magnet ring
- Sensor Holder - ( Bolt ON or "Glue ON" )
- 7 1/4-32 Spark Plugs
- Walbro Carb assembly
- Throttle easy hook-up
- Timing Kit
- Tachometer
- Opto Kill SW
Full Gas Kit price $550
Last edited by CH Ignitions; 03-09-2015 at 06:43 AM.
#1487
Hello Guys, I made a new "bolt ON kit, and a full gas conversion to gas using a Walbro carb exactly like I sent Dave.
Here you can see it running.
Thanks
Adrian
http://youtu.be/I0r5-1dA3oQ
Here you can see it running.
Thanks
Adrian
http://youtu.be/I0r5-1dA3oQ
#1489
My Feedback: (11)
Hi Maxam,
The thread above (post #1485) have all the kit content .
The downfall is that you will need a electric pump on top of all.
The HV wires are all from one box. I could make it all to come out from one side...but then will be much longer box.
L150mm x W45mm x H 35mm I will have to make new PCB for that and Boxes. Not sure how that will fit, in any case will need to be inside of the fuselage .
If you guys think will be better I will do it. Just let me know.
Thanks
Adrian
The thread above (post #1485) have all the kit content .
The downfall is that you will need a electric pump on top of all.
The HV wires are all from one box. I could make it all to come out from one side...but then will be much longer box.
L150mm x W45mm x H 35mm I will have to make new PCB for that and Boxes. Not sure how that will fit, in any case will need to be inside of the fuselage .
If you guys think will be better I will do it. Just let me know.
Thanks
Adrian
#1491
My Feedback: (11)
Was not your fault, It was mine, I did not listed...my brain was not there...LOL. I edited the thread.
Does Moki 215 -250-400 uses the same CDI? I made replacement for 150-180 and working on 215...I bought one just for that reason...ouch $$$$
Please replay by email [email protected]. This is EVO Thread.
Thanks
Adrian
Does Moki 215 -250-400 uses the same CDI? I made replacement for 150-180 and working on 215...I bought one just for that reason...ouch $$$$
Please replay by email [email protected]. This is EVO Thread.
Thanks
Adrian
#1492
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Thanks, Tom. Although I haven't looked at the idle adjustment yet, I'll give that a try. I have a little over an hour on the engine right now and it certainly sounds (to me) like fuel starvation - I can now start the engine by hand which is a definite improvement.
#1493
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Looks like a great way to avoid the cost of glow fuel (although mixing your own doesn't cost too much - I get methanol at $3 per gallon and some Klotz makes for cheap fuel) - I have a few engines that use the 20:1 gas/oil content and they produce quite a bit of residue on the aircraft - too bad the ratio has to be that rich. Do you know the total additional weight of the peripherals?
Was not your fault, It was mine, I did not listed...my brain was not there...LOL. I edited the thread.
Does Moki 215 -250-400 uses the same CDI? I made replacement for 150-180 and working on 215...I bought one just for that reason...ouch $$$$
Please replay by email [email protected]. This is EVO Thread.
Thanks
Adrian
Does Moki 215 -250-400 uses the same CDI? I made replacement for 150-180 and working on 215...I bought one just for that reason...ouch $$$$
Please replay by email [email protected]. This is EVO Thread.
Thanks
Adrian
#1495
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Thanks, Tom - you hit the nail on the head - I opened the idle needle about 1/2 a turn which was too much and then backed off 1/4 - tweaked it a bit more and it sounds like a different engine - 90 minutes into the break-in - I feel a lot better - at 3/4 throttle, the engine started to pull the stand weighed down with a 40 pound bag of wood pellets across the floor - LOL.
#1496
How "messy" is your guys engine, and did it get better as it was run in? I find mine leaks out after run oil and fuel from various places on the fuel intake tubes mostly. Does some of this seal itself up a little as the engine runs and maybe "gums up" a little? Was thinking of using some engine sealant around the intake tube connections to keep things "in check".
What are your guys experience?
What are your guys experience?
#1497
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (62)
The intake tube MUST be completely sealed. Have you tightened the nut on the cylinders? (not too tight) Yo might be getting leaking from the exhaust headers a bit which is not critical. The engines I have are just messy enough where I almost never need to lube the rockers. These engines will be just a bit "misty" -Tom
#1498
A couple of the intake tubes are worse than others, and I'm positive it's leaking a bit around them. I've checked literally every nut and bolt on the engine for tightness. Snugged them all up. I may have to cheat a little bit with some engine sealant around the nuts and intake tubes - I'm hoping getting some more run time on it seats them a bit better but I'm not so sure. Air leaks would probably cause a tuning disaster I'm sure. If it continues to make a mess, this engine may go as backup for spare parts then. The rockers definitely stay lubed on their own though with this one
#1499
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Hi guys.
Well,I have now converted my 7-77 to run on gas,previously I had converted it to CDi,using a "kit" I bought from Adrian...........all good.
Morris at "Morrisminimotors" had coverted a 7-77 to run on gas,using the carb from the Saito FG84,so I bought the carb adaptor from Morris and purchased a FG 84 Carb............... ( expensive !!! )..........
Ran the 7-77 today on gas,very pleased with the results,very even idle,fast and responsive throttle transition.........ran non-stop for 20 minutes,with varying throttle settings,cylinders appeared to be within approx 6 degrees of each other........I was using a mix of 16:1,bit on the oily side,but ran well ( this is the mix I am using on my FG 84 ).
I was running a Biela 22" x 10 x 3BL,...easily ran to 5700RPM,with more to go,but I think the main jet will need to be set a little richer for max throttle...Pretty sure that running on gas does produce more "torque" !!!
My 7-77 is around 2 years old and has approx 5hrs running time on it,during the carb conversion,decided to have a look in the back.........Having followed "Maxam's" after-run procedure ( but without the air pump ),I was pleased to see all was good in there !!!!
See the photos below for my conversion.
KInd regards..............Nick (UK).
Well,I have now converted my 7-77 to run on gas,previously I had converted it to CDi,using a "kit" I bought from Adrian...........all good.
Morris at "Morrisminimotors" had coverted a 7-77 to run on gas,using the carb from the Saito FG84,so I bought the carb adaptor from Morris and purchased a FG 84 Carb............... ( expensive !!! )..........
Ran the 7-77 today on gas,very pleased with the results,very even idle,fast and responsive throttle transition.........ran non-stop for 20 minutes,with varying throttle settings,cylinders appeared to be within approx 6 degrees of each other........I was using a mix of 16:1,bit on the oily side,but ran well ( this is the mix I am using on my FG 84 ).
I was running a Biela 22" x 10 x 3BL,...easily ran to 5700RPM,with more to go,but I think the main jet will need to be set a little richer for max throttle...Pretty sure that running on gas does produce more "torque" !!!
My 7-77 is around 2 years old and has approx 5hrs running time on it,during the carb conversion,decided to have a look in the back.........Having followed "Maxam's" after-run procedure ( but without the air pump ),I was pleased to see all was good in there !!!!
See the photos below for my conversion.
KInd regards..............Nick (UK).