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K&B Sportster Club

Old 01-30-2016, 10:04 PM
  #476  
sarpet
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Yes iknow,ihave .28 sporster and it works great 20%castor and 10%nitro.
Saito was used when ibought it,very low runing time.
It works idle to 3/4 throtle but never full throtle,every flight needles must adjust again ,too many deadstik,too many time it was kick prop loose,scale plastic spinner pieces or burbing on very rich full throtle.
Piece of ****.
Old 02-04-2016, 12:07 PM
  #477  
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Test runing sporster .21 from ebay,little used,but piston looks like new.
10% nitro
20%castor
Weather -2.5°c
Master scimitar 9x5 13000rpm
Apc 9x4 13800rpm
Idon't have any really good normal .21 engine ,so ido not know whether
These good readins?
My .21k&b rear exhaust,mvvs and rossi rews over 20krpm 7"prop.
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Old 02-04-2016, 01:03 PM
  #478  
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I'm gonna sound snobbish, but my badly abused Sportster .20 (with silicone o-ringed head, no shims) turned an 8x6 APC prop at 14,600rpm on 5% nitro 25% castor fuel and McCoy MC59 plug. I think this one has a gremlin or something - the engine review for this model showed about a 1,000rpm lower reading on a zinger wood 8x6. Back on page 17 of this thread is a few pictures of how nasty this thing looked inside when I got it. Maybe it was some speed additive.

These engines are timed really low, so tend not to like running that fast for very long. Loading them down for around 11,000rpm on the ground is close to ideal.

Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 02-04-2016 at 01:06 PM.
Old 02-04-2016, 08:08 PM
  #479  
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Your Sportster .20 sounds about the same as an LA .25, maybe a bit less, likely because of the size. We have to use 10% nitro and a MA 8-6 for racing them. Mine does about 15,500 rpm like that, and is about average. A BB FX or AX .25 is a few thousand better, and heavier too. I don't seem to have a Sportster for some reason.
Old 02-04-2016, 09:48 PM
  #480  
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I'll have to run in my .28 and see how it runs compared to the .20. That's gonna be awhile yet. Just got a foot of snow and it's getting cold again...
Old 02-05-2016, 10:41 AM
  #481  
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http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/glow...er-28-a-2.html
Post 27 is my 1:12 aircombat hawker typhoon,stein models kit and k&b sportster .28 engine.
Istill have that plane.
Old 02-11-2016, 11:34 AM
  #482  
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K&B .20 sportster
10%nitro 20%castor
Ma 8x6 13900rpm
Old 02-11-2016, 11:36 AM
  #483  
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Originally Posted by särpet
K&B .20 sportster
10%nitro 20%castor
Ma 8x6 13900rpm
That's pretty good. APC probably turns a little slower - that's what I use. It should come up with more runtime. Mine did about 700rpm better on 5% nitro 22% castor.
Old 02-12-2016, 06:35 AM
  #484  
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700 RPM better than what fuel? Pretty large increase.
Old 02-12-2016, 08:11 AM
  #485  
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Originally Posted by Sport_Pilot
700 RPM better than what fuel? Pretty large increase.
He was using 10% nitro. I suspect my engine is broke in a bit more than his.
Old 02-12-2016, 08:59 AM
  #486  
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Just a bit?
Old 02-12-2016, 10:04 AM
  #487  
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Originally Posted by Sport_Pilot
Just a bit?
Well, mine did look like crap inside when I got it. Maybe they used some special corrosive speed additive in it to make it run that fast.
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Old 02-13-2016, 10:18 AM
  #488  
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Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
That's pretty good. APC probably turns a little slower
That depends on the MAS model, the older ones have a beefier blade than the newer ones. The zinger ones are even worse though, which could explain the lower numbers in the review.

I wouldn't focus too much on the detailed numbers from one end of the world to the other. They both seem to make about the same power as the old and trusted Veco .19 RC on that prop, so certainly good enough in order to fly something.

Last edited by Mr Cox; 02-13-2016 at 10:20 AM.
Old 02-13-2016, 11:22 AM
  #489  
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Originally Posted by Mr Cox
That depends on the MAS model, the older ones have a beefier blade than the newer ones. The zinger ones are even worse though, which could explain the lower numbers in the review.

I wouldn't focus too much on the detailed numbers from one end of the world to the other. They both seem to make about the same power as the old and trusted Veco .19 RC on that prop, so certainly good enough in order to fly something.
In practice, I'd be putting a big prop on it. I think a 9x5 is the minimum prop K&B recommended, but I'd be going for a 10x5-10x6. These things excel on big lumber. I tried a 13x4W and got in the mid 6k range on diesel. Just under 9k on an 11x6 IIRC.
Old 02-14-2016, 04:18 AM
  #490  
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My master 8x6 was only what ifound and it could be early -90 prop.
Weather was +-0°c
Old 02-14-2016, 05:17 AM
  #491  
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On anything larger than an 8 inch prop a K&B Sportster 20 with a muffler will run away from an unmuffled Veco 19 by quite a bit. We had someone at our field once with an unmuffled Veco 19. You really don't want to hear that engine at anything less than 50 yards unless you have some good ear protection. The Sportster with its long muffler is a completely different story.

Jim
Old 02-14-2016, 09:54 AM
  #492  
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The longer I with this thread the more I miss my two .20s and two .45s. Still have my .65 it is in my avatar.
Originally Posted by buzzard bait
On anything larger than an 8 inch prop a K&B Sportster 20 with a muffler will run away from an unmuffled Veco 19 by quite a bit. We had someone at our field once with an unmuffled Veco 19. You really don't want to hear that engine at anything less than 50 yards unless you have some good ear protection. The Sportster with its long muffler is a completely different story.

Jim
Ya want loud, OMG loud? I fire up my ST 3000 with out a muffler. HOLY CRAP MAN! Also did the same with my OS .60 rear exhaust engine, just for giggles. HIGHLY UNRECOMMENDED ACTIVITIES. But nothing compares to being 20 feet away from the barrel of a navy 5"54 blasting out rounds. It feels like your body compresses. I was wearing double ear protection.

Ken
Old 02-14-2016, 10:02 AM
  #493  
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Default 5/54 vs 16 inch Naval guns

[QUOTE=flyingagin.... But nothing compares to being 20 feet away from the barrel of a navy 5"54 blasting out rounds. It feels like your body compresses. I was wearing double ear protection.
Ken[/QUOTE]

My office at NSWC, Dahlgren was about 1/2 mile from the firing range, The 16 inch guns faced down river and were pointed away from my office. Firing them would knock ceiling tiles down in my office and shake the whole building. Could barely hear the 5/54 guns.
Old 02-14-2016, 10:40 AM
  #494  
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I can imagine. I can not even imagine standing close to 1.
I have always tried to protect my ears. The unmuffled engines I mentioned were very brief runs. I even wear mouse ears when mowing the grass.
But as a teen the CL engines did not have mufflers just an open port.

I do have a near constant ring in my ears now, but it is attributed as a side effect of the meds I am on.

Ken
Old 02-18-2016, 06:42 AM
  #495  
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Originally Posted by särpet
Yes iknow,ihave .28 sporster and it works great 20%castor and 10%nitro.
Saito was used when ibought it,very low runing time.
It works idle to 3/4 throtle but never full throtle,every flight needles must adjust again ,too many deadstik,too many time it was kick prop loose,scale plastic spinner pieces or burbing on very rich full throtle.
Piece of ****.

I saw from your pictures in another post you are running muffler pressure. Pull that pressure line and let it hang. You can plug your pressure tap by putting a very short piece of fuel line tubing over it and a small screw on the other end.

The sportster engines are designed to work with atmospheric pressure only. When you run muffler pressure the high end needle is very hard to set, it will kick props at you, and also quit in flight. I had this same problem with a .65 sportster and after a lengthy heated argument about it with a technician from K&B, he got me to see the light. The very second I pulled that pressure line off the muffler, I had a totally different engine that behaved wonderfully.

carl
Old 02-18-2016, 07:35 AM
  #496  
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Originally Posted by carlgrover
I saw from your pictures in another post you are running muffler pressure. Pull that pressure line and let it hang. You can plug your pressure tap by putting a very short piece of fuel line tubing over it and a small screw on the other end.

The sportster engines are designed to work with atmospheric pressure only. When you run muffler pressure the high end needle is very hard to set, it will kick props at you, and also quit in flight. I had this same problem with a .65 sportster and after a lengthy heated argument about it with a technician from K&B, he got me to see the light. The very second I pulled that pressure line off the muffler, I had a totally different engine that behaved wonderfully.
carl
The kicking/stopping problem the OP was having was with his Saito, not the sporster. i don't think the same muffler pressure issues apply to the Saito as with the sporster. I have both, no problems with either.
Old 02-18-2016, 10:05 AM
  #497  
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I usually use muffler pressure on my Sportsters without any issues other than my .65 runs a couple hundred rpm faster without pressure. Fuel mixture stays more consistent full tank to empty using it; without pressure the needle just needs to be opened up a little more. My .20 runs fine with or without pressure, glow or diesel works the same.

My .65 kicked a prop once - it got a little lean at the bottom of the tank. Sadly I never was able to recover the prop or prop nut.
Old 02-18-2016, 11:15 AM
  #498  
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I have always ran my .65 on muffler pressure.
Very consistent runs the whole tank. The last plane it was in would give my over a 3/4 hour run time using modest throttle. The plane was sort of a copy of a Kadet SR, but made with foam board (and balsa). A real nice low speed flier. I mostly shot a 3/4 hour worth of touch n goes with it. It was just to much fun that way. So in general I seldom used more that 1/ throttle, even on take off. Just to much fun exploring low power end of the flight envelope. Lost the plane in a same channel shoot down. Must have been at least a 16 ounce tank. I think a 14-5 prop (maybe smaller, long time ago).
But the engine sure performed sweet on that plane. Yanked the snot out of too if I got into throttle.

I think the last time I did not use muffler pressure on my engines was the old scavenge ported engine that did not even have mufflers. I just dated myself.

Ken
Old 02-25-2016, 07:46 AM
  #499  
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Now it happens,iget first .65 sportster from ebay.
It is used engine,A little bit I was wondering a few things.
Engine was very dirty inside.
The cylinder is not round if you look at the grinding traces and scrathches?
Plug is very deep inside in sylinderhead? What plug is for sportster? Long os f ?
Normal iuse just engines medium plug.
Engine is without sylinder and head gasket?
Iput it together with gasket cement.






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Old 02-25-2016, 08:34 AM
  #500  
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Originally Posted by särpet
Now it happens,iget first .65 sportster from ebay.
It is used engine,A little bit I was wondering a few things.
Engine was very dirty inside.
The cylinder is not round if you look at the grinding traces and scrathches?
Plug is very deep inside in sylinderhead? What plug is for sportster? Long os f ?
Normal iuse just engines medium plug.
Engine is without sylinder and head gasket?
Iput it together with gasket cement.






The majority of .65 Sportster engines have no gasket between cylinder and crankcase, and no head gasket either. The machining is very good and usually won't leak. If you want to run more than 5% nitro, you will likely need to make a couple head shims and shim the head up just a little. As for glow plugs; they're designed for long reach plugs. OS/Enya plugs are too short as you can see in your first picture. 4-stroke plugs are too long and likely not needed unless you're running the engine inverted. Even with an inverted engine, you shouldn't absolutely need an extended tipped plug.

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