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  1. #1

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    Tower .61 carburetor question

    I have a TH 61 that has not been run for a few years that I am trying to get back in service. The bracket holding the remote needle valve is broken. Also the clip/ratchet (not sure the name) that keeps the needle from spinning freely is broken as well. The engine ran great prior. Tower has the parts needed listed on their site but it would appear that they are either backordered or NLA. Any ideas on how to salvage the situation? I could swap with a different carb from another company but that would cost half or more of what the engine is worth. Any suggestions appreciated!

    Zach

  2. #2
    Sport_Pilot's Avatar
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    RE: Tower .61 carburetor question

    You don't have to use the original remote needle. Any would do. And you don't have to mount it on the engine either. You could mount it on the firewall, or motor mount with a strip of brass or aluminum.


    http://www.foxmanufacturing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_ id=383
    Glow Head Brotherhood #15

  3. #3
    Ed_Moorman's Avatar
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    RE: Tower .61 carburetor question

    The remote needles for the Evolution .61 and Magnum .61 engines will work well, too.
    Ed Moorman, AMA 553, Former R/C Report Fun Aerobatics Columnist. 76 and up to my old tricks!

  4. #4

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    RE: Tower .61 carburetor question

    You may not have to even use the remote needle valve. If the carb body has a large hex headed bolt where the needle should be, just remove that bolt. Then remove the needle from the remote assembly and screw the needle into the hole left by removong the bolt. Works on Evolution engines and some others except OS. Works well for me. I never liked the slight lag in engine response when tuning when using the remote valve.

  5. #5

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    RE: Tower .61 carburetor question

    I would be happy to do without the remote assembly. I still have the issue of no clip to keep the needle from spinning. Are there any good home remedies for this? Thanks for the responses!

    Zach

  6. #6

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    RE: Tower .61 carburetor question

    Old school remedy was to slip tubing snugly over the needle vale body and needle to keep the needle from walking out. Or, a compression spring under the needle that is compressed a fair amount at the running setting of the needle.

  7. #7
    Sport_Pilot's Avatar
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    RE: Tower .61 carburetor question

    The Tower needle and clip appears to be an OS clone, so perhaps an OS or Magnum needle and clip would work.  IMO the Fox needle is the best of the bunch, you don't even need a clip.  The seal is teflon and has sufficient friction without a clip.
    Glow Head Brotherhood #15

  8. #8

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    RE: Tower .61 carburetor question

    Thanks for the replies, I'm going to try a couple of the suggestions to increase the needle friction if I can just delete the remote hookup and screw it into the carb body. If not I will pick up the fox unit. I got the engine running last night and it ran great!

  9. #9
    Sport_Pilot's Avatar
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    RE: Tower .61 carburetor question

    I am thinking you are missing a part. The part that has the barrel that goes over the o ring and that the clip goes on. Unless there is one that can be unscrewed from the remote needle and fits on the thread the acorn nut fits on.
    Glow Head Brotherhood #15

  10. #10

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    RE: Tower .61 carburetor question

    Hey Zach, how about a picture of the tower carb you have showing the side the needle would screw into?

  11. #11

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    RE: Tower .61 carburetor question

    I don't have a picture but the necessary parts were all part of the remote needle valve and transferred over fine. I will either order a new clip from magnum or OS or just see if the fuel tubing that I tried out will work.

  12. #12
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    RE: Tower .61 carburetor question

    Some heat shrink tubings work well for the seal too.  Sometimes the silicone is springy and doesn't stay where you want it, depending on the length.  Some heat shrinks are different and some work better than others too.
    Glow Head Hood # 7


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