L.R.Rip

Their is not much info on this engine. How is it doing for people who have one? Is it better than the OS 50-SX? Is it reliable?




(mod note: edit was to try to associate thread with product guide)

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I do not own one but from what I've been reading on here, they a pretty much equal in all aspects. There's been som availability problems and that may have a bearing on what you purchase?

Enjoy,

Jim

DarZeelon

Let Her Rip,

This is the new Magnum.
It has an ABC piston+sleeve, where the OS.50SX has a ringed piston.
It is slightly larger in dispalcement as well.

It should make more power.
I cannot comment about its quality (made in China, the OS is Japanese) and it costs about $50 less.

It does look promising.

L.R.Rip

Hobby People have a PDF of the manuel for the Magnum XLS-52 and they have it in stock for $99.99, or so the web page says.
I know their is a $60.00 difference between the two. I have seen other Magnum two strokes run like the 46 and the guys say they are powerful to. But I have never personally toyed with one.
I have two OS 46FX. and like OS because of the track record I have with them. I just purchaced a Magic Extra and was thinking of just puting the 46FX in it. Then my wife came out and saw the plane and said wow that looks pretty you should put a new motor in it. And thus begins the shoping quest for a nice motor.

L.R.Rip

Maybe some one can offer their opion of tapered sleeve vs ringed piston? Do ringed pistons engines last longer than tapered? I know tapered dont start easy when hot are the ringed engins the same way?

jcflysrc

My Feedback: (50)

Some guys have all the luck. I don't think I will ever hear my wife say my plane needs a new engine. Just not gonna happen. But I do have a new engine. The Mag XLS 52. As far as I can tell. The engine is gonna be a strong one. The mufflers supplied with them seem to be the only real prob. Mine as well as others I have read about here have the same prob. The muffler leaks ...no make that flows... with fuel from all possible points. The bolt hole, the seams of the extension, and around the pressure nipple.

Magnum offered to send a new muffler and a tube of silicone, which I have not received.But I will give it a little more time. In the meantime, I was told that the muffler off of the OS 46 FX will fit it, so that might be an option.

I ran the engine once on a stand, and it screams. I am breaking it in with the 10x6 Mag recommends. Don't have a tach. It will turn up pretty good. The needle settings recommended are a little rich. The low on mine was rich by a full turn too. I am using the remote needle valve, for safety, and have not noted any air leaks at all. It's an attractive little engine with its blue anodized head. Hope the color holds up over time. I have heard of other brands experiencing fading.

I purchased mine at Quantum for $99.00+ glow plug...$102 & change...shipped!

DarZeelon

L.R.Rip,

Most up to 15cc (.91) two-stroke engines, from most manufacturers, are "tapered bore".
They are either ABC (more durable, longest lasting, problematic chromic acid pollution...), or ABN.
Small ringed, parallel bore engines are now less common. They are apparently more expensive to produce.

Ringed and ABN engines will last about the same, but when overhaul time comes, the ringed engines are cheaper to overhaul, usually requiring only a ring and some wet-or-dry on the cylinder bore.

The ABC will usually last much longer than an ABN, or a ringed engine. It will often withstand a lean-run, that would burn up either of the other two. But it would cost as much as an ABN to overhaul.

Tapered bore engines will generally be more powerful than their ringed counterpart.

Do your own math.

L.R.Rip

Thanks for the info in both of these posts. The info was most educating I am leaning towards the Magnum XLS-52 now. I wonder if all the mufflers that come with it will be this way or if it is just yours.
Maybe I'll get some more posts on this enging before I make my decision. Would be nice to know if it starts easy like my OS does I can prime it and flip the nose cone and it will start almost every time in 2 or 3 flips. This is great as I dont have to carry a heavy battery to the field.
[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Ed_Moorman

My Feedback: (1)

I just ordered a second one. Great engine. Easy to hand start-back flip. Tons of power. Can't compare to an Irvine .53, but beats a TT .46 easily.

My low end was set way, way rich as it came.

Magnum mufflers, and most others, tend to leak, but I open them up before I run the engine and put them together with permatex hi-temp silicone fron Auto Zone and Lock-Tite the threads, then put Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo on the rear nut. The .52 muffler is like the OS & Magnum .91 muflers with the extension tube in the middle. Probably a .46 muffler extended for more volume.

L.R.Rip

Ed thanks for your input. What prop are you using on them? And how is the transition does it lag? Do you have to abjust the mixture alot or is it, set it and forget it. Well mabey not forget it. Does it suck fuel? The guys at the field that have OS 50's say it sucks fuel but they have helli's and run wide open most of the flight. If I can get about 10 minutes flight time out of 8 oz that would be great! I dont fly wide open all the time.

Thanks a bunch any more input would be excellent[sm=spinnyeyes.gif][sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

L.R.Rip

I purchased a Magnum XLS-52 today and will probably be able to post a good review on this engine two or three weeks..... Well I hope it will be a good one! [sm=punching.gif][sm=spinnyeyes.gif][sm=bananahead.gif]

Ed_Moorman

My Feedback: (1)

Helis are different critters that use different fuel (usually), at least our guys do.

After running it on the test stand, I put it in an old Balsa USA Sting Ray with a 12.25x3.75 APC fun fly prop. I'm sorry, I have a tac in my tx case all the time and never use it. I just check the climb and speed. The plane has had a TT .46, Tower .46 & Magnum .61 4-stroke. No comparison in the climb. The .52 goes up like a rocket.

Now I have it in a Cermark Javelin II. It weighs 6 lbs, 1 oz. Since I don't fly pattern, it was too fast with a 10-7, so I switched back to the 12.25x3.75. It's still sort of fast, climbs vertically, does giant maneuvers and it an all round better prop for my type of flying. I probably need to try an 11-7 and a 12-6.

I am a set and forget type person with needles. If I have to adjust it all the time, it isn't worth having. If you set the engine with a slight smoke trail, you shouldn't have to change it except on a very humid, foggy day.

I haven't gotten my second one in yet, but it will also go on the test stand and in the StingRay. I need to order some more props.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Ed:

That's a GOOD picture!

I've looked at the Javelin, and Cermark has my credit card numbers.

Do you think I could squeeze my new FA-80 Saito in it?

If yes I'll forget getting another "Stick."

Bill.

L.R.Rip

Thanks again Ed. That covering looks gerat on that plane. I have a OS 46FX on an up roar with an 11x7 and it hangs on the prop at about 6/8 on the throtle stick. I wonder if I could put a 13x4 on the Magnum.

jcflysrc

My Feedback: (50)

Ed, that IS a fine looking plane you have there. And it climbs vert at 6 pounds 1 oz. like a rocket? GREAT! I have not run mine in a plane as of yet, but it's going in a Sig Ultimate, and I hope to get it up this week. I did recieve a new muffler from Global Hobbies, but it is not the exact one that came with it. It was an XL, instead of an XLS. At least that's what is stamped on the original mufflers extension. The new muff has no stamp at all but the package said it was for an XL. Same dimensions, but the casting is a better quality. I sealed it up with Permatexx RTV anyway, and no more leaks.

Ed_Moorman

My Feedback: (1)

I have my second Mag .52XLS flying in an old Balsa USA StingRay I use for airborne break-in. I also ordered a 13-4 just to try out. The engine screams with the 12.25x3.75.

The new engine is quiet with an 11-6. I am pretty sure I have ground clearance for the 13-4 and will give it a try this weekend. The old StingRay was climbing vertically, slowly, but vertically, up to 800-1000 feet with the 11-6. It was faster than with the 12.25. For a grungy, draggy old plane it was moving pretty well.

The new one was easier to get running since I pre-adjusted the low end. I remembered the first one had the low end setting so rich the carb flooded full just sitting on my test stand. This time I hooked up a long piece of tubing, closed the carb down to an idle size slit, blew through the tubing and closed the low end down until I just got a small hiss. I think I closed it down a good turn this time. After I did this, I ran it on the bench without needing any low end adjustments for break-in. I did make a couple of tweaks to get it to throttle up cleanly after I had it in the plane out at the field.

jcflysrc

My Feedback: (50)

That's good advice for anyone contemplating this engine. Mine was WAY rich also, with the flooding prob as well. But I have it straight now and it runs great. For the money, this is a decent little engine.

By the way, what brand of prop are you running?

MailOrderGuy

My Feedback: (17)

Hello everyone,

I have been primarily electric flight for the past 18 months and have never flown glow before. I finally jioned the local RC flying club and everyone is flying glow so I thought I would buy just one, so I bought the ModelTech Magic 300L w/ Magnum XLS-52 engine.
I have broken the engine in per the instructions. I took off the 10x6 break-in prop and have had 2 flights with an 11x7, very nice vertical, no complaints so far, looks like a strong engine.

I emailed some questions to customer support about the best prop/rpm setting, I have not gotten a response yet, so I thought I would post the questions here to see if anyone could offer advise.

Here is a copy of what I emailed to them "global hobby"

"I have a few questions about getting the best performance out of the engine relative to the prop size.

The specifications of the engine says that it will go up to 18,000 rpm.

Question 1: Am I to assume that 18,000 rpm is for the smallest prop recommended?

Question 2: Is there a chart for max rpm's relative to the prop size being used?

Question 3: How do I know when the engine is running "just right" or "to lean"?

Question 4: Can the engine run to lean before reaching its max rpm for the prop being used?"

Thanks in advance.

Ed_Moorman

My Feedback: (1)

I can take a stab at those questions.

1. 18,000 was probably wit ha 9-6 prop which is way too small for practical use.
2. You won't find a rpm vs. prop size chart for any engine. There are too many variables for gas/glow engines. Some of these are fuel used, including % nitro, % oil, type oil..., type of prop, air temperature, humidity, altitude (for pressure), how it was broken in and others.
3. Generally, too lean is when it sags. Again, there are a lot of variables. If you are flying a plane that pulls a lot of g's, the engine will need to be set richer as we only have a suction fuel system and under g's, the fuel draw is harder. If you fly long vertical climbs, you'll need to be richer than is you just fly level. Normally, we rev the engine to full power and hold the nose upwards about 45 degrees and see if it runs OK or sags, then adjust accordingly. A more excat way is to use a tach and tune for max rpm, then back off a few hunderd. Some people say 200-300 rpm, but some engines require 500 rpm depending on how you fly it. Somewhere around an eighth to a quarter turn open.
4. Yes, the engine will break into a 2-cycle long before it gets to max rpm.

And you thought all those batteries had variables.

rightflyer

Ed
I take it you would recommend the Magnum 52XL? (especially con sidering the price?)

MailOrderGuy

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks for helping me with this.
The guys at the field have been telling me that its better to run a little rich than lean.

I'm running 10% (the pink stuff) right now, What would I gain by going to 15%?
I am hearing different views on Caster oil vs. synthetic, what do you think?

Please excuse my newbeeness to glow, I have spent the last 18 months getting very educated about Amps, Volts and Watts, [sm=spinnyeyes.gif] not to mention sensored and sensorless [sm=spinnyeyes.gif] and lets not froget NiCad, NiMH and Li-Poly [sm=spinnyeyes.gif] Its enough to make your head spin.

So, has anyone made a "Motocalc" for glow yet?

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

MO:

If the "Pink Stuff" is a Morgan fuel, specifically Omega brand, you are running a castor blend. Morgan's green fuel, "Cool Power," is the all synthetic bland.

You will never hurt your engine by having castor oil in it. And plain bearing engines, the OS LA series for example, truly need castor oil for best engine life. Further, if you have any ofthe old engines with lapped iron pistons, they just don't work right without castor oil, And oil percentages of 22% and higher.

Going from 10%to 15% nitro doesn't make a big difference in cost. but it can make the engine idle a lot better. At the same time, some of the European engines don't even like 10% nitro. The Jap and Red Chinese engines all like the 15% fine.

Bill.

Ed_Moorman

My Feedback: (1)

Bill's right. We're in the same club, by the way. The difference in 10% and 15% isn't much. I generally run 10% in the summer heat here in Florida and go to 15% after it starts cooling off. Bill flies in the evening so he probably doesn't notice.

Generally speaking, break in all engines with some castor. The ring on a ringed engine doesn't seat as quickly with an all synthetic fuel. After a couple of gallons, I normally switch my ringed engines (4-strokes) to all synthetic.

ABC engines generally like a castor blend. Helis like a lot of oil for cooling. I run my .52XLS on Omega 10% right now, but am getting ready to switch to 15% when this gallon runs out.

MailOrderGuy

My Feedback: (17)

Hi guys, I'm back.

I must say, I am happy with the Magnum 52 2-stroke. I have been flying an 11x7 prop and it has plenty of power. I want to slow down for some 3D now, so I bought an APC 12.25x3.75. I heard that is a good prop for 3D.

I do have a 10x8x3 (3 bladed prop), what kinda performance would I get by using it?

Thanks for your input

scole

My Feedback: (5)

What is everyone getting RPM's wise with a 12.25x3.75 prop on this engine?